BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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ok, tried to post these pictures last week, but the WiFi at the campground was horrible. (hey trying to keep up while hanging out after dark)

 

You can clearly see the difference in the cylinder walls, there is a clearly defined lip/ledge near the top where the rings do not run. the pistons are sloppy in the bores. do NOT have a mic to measure the inside, but will get the shop to do that for me later, once i pull the block.

 

you can also clearly see the scoring and pitting in the walls as well. 

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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nope was done recently, was few years ago, but car was never driven...

 

car totally has less than 50 miles and 2 hours run time on it !!

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dropped off the head at the shop during my  lunch, and just got a call back, head checks out fine, no cracks and intake and exhaust hold a vacuum. so the seats are sealing. however the head is 'warped like a banana'

 

so he is going to mill the head flat, also check the manifold surface and machine that if NOT flat. 

 

also asked him to pull the valves and check the guides and the seats, inspect and check everything and let me know the outcome of the valves and manifold surface...

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If the pistons are sloppy and there is a lip at the top then the cylinders are worn.  Needs to be bored out and bigger rings. 

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1 hour ago, BearsFan315 said:

dropped off the head at the shop during my  lunch, and just got a call back, head checks out fine, no cracks and intake and exhaust hold a vacuum. so the seats are sealing. however the head is 'warped like a banana'

 

so he is going to mill the head flat, also check the manifold surface and machine that if NOT flat. 

 

also asked him to pull the valves and check the guides and the seats, inspect and check everything and let me know the outcome of the valves and manifold surface...

That warped heat might just be the smoking gun to your overheating problem! That banana might be a good thing.

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Yeah a warped head may be a good thing vs a cracked head....

head should be done by the end of the week, and for under $500 i hope

want him to go over valves even though they hold vacuum to make sure the guides are good , while it is off.

 

then i can pull the block and get that to him and get started on that. 

 

trying to do one thing at a time, and plan one step ahead

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1 hour ago, Laughing Coyote said:

If the pistons are sloppy and there is a lip at the top then the cylinders are worn.  Needs to be bored out and bigger rings. 

that is next after i pull the block and such

 

going to start at 020 and see if we can clean up 90-95% off the walls if not go to 030

new pistons, pins, rings at the least

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Jerry,

The cylinders on my '32 194 engine were about the same condition as yours before my rebuild. The rebuilder went with .030 over and I recall getting the pistons and pins from Kantor in NJ.

Whatever way you go, try to nail down a definitive completion date with the shop. Mine took a year longer to finish than first estimated. And don't lose faith. It will all come together someday and you're young enough to make sure it does !

 

Hey, it was great meeting you at Hershey ! Too bad we didn't get a picture of you , me and Ted. 😃

 

Charlie (Hardaground on the VCCA forum)

 

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thansk, Kantor gets theirs from Egge, heard they have cleaned up their quality in the last few years and are doing good stuff. i may have found a set of NOS/NORS cast iron pistons .020 or .030, waiting for confirmation.

 

I am on top of the shop, they said they could have it all done (minus babbit if needed) in a month or two. if i need babbit i will probably send the rods and bearings to Pauls then have shop here line bore it all and get it going. 

 

In the process of removing the engine, man so many things to remove, disconnect, etc... trying NOT to damage anything in the process. was NOT planning on taking any of this stuff out again !!

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It stinks Jerry. I took the olds out for a longer ride a day ago and sure enough, after about 10-12miles, it heated right back up and was bubbling. So the hood will come off, then the distributor, then the head and anything else I need. Might have some good news though. I found two head bolts that will not tighten and possibly there's a chance they are the culprit as one is right at #6 where my leak has been coming from. I ordered two head gaskets from Olsons so they should be here soon. I will get it fixed and will be checking things very carefully. With an 87 year old motor, the metal simply could have fatigued with the torque of the head bolts once it heated up so that the remaining threads just pulled free. I will use thread inserts of course and will look at every single hole to evaluate to see if I might put thread inserts in all of them. It's a pain but it's more of a pain to have to do it again. Other than this issue, the Olds drives really good and I look forward to driving it around like I do my 31' Chevy. The show in Charlotte does look interesting and that possibly might be where I go to try and get my Sr. It's closer to FL and possibly my son could come up to see me. He loves car shows and it will be great to hang out with him some. 

     Russ at Paul's is great to work with and he is fast. If your mains do need to be done, I believe they are inserts so you can pull them and send them to him. If your local shop can line bore you'll be golden. I'll be keeping watch on your thread for your progress and any help you might need, just let me know. Just a thought, I was able to locate some oversize rods when I did my 31' engine over for cheap money and that is sometimes another way to go. Paul's is cheap enough though and uses modern materials so that has to be considered too.

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well night two of disassembly. man i forgot how many parts i had to put on after the engine went in. going to take a few days to remove everything and clear the path for the drivetrain to come out.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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well got everything else removed, and engine is ready to be pulled ( i hope and think)

should be able to sling it and lift a tad, then pull straight out the front.

 

pulled the radiator core out the shell, and going to drop it off with the radiator shop tomorrow. they are going to give it a once over. flush it out good, check flow and such, then clean it up. figure while it is out again, will have it double checked and validated. the local shop here is one of 2 in the area that build and do custom radiators. been around since the 1940's they build custom radiators, heat exchangers, they are the ones that have the caustic tank that cleaned most of my sheet metal parts. old school shop, very nice people and have been good to me and fellow old car people around the region. 

 

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plan to get it pulled this weekend and then talk with machine shop and see what all they want, so i can take it as it is or strip it down to minimum. going to also see if they can balance the flywheel and such, check surfaces and see if they need to be machined.

 

plan to call them tomorrow and check on my head, and see if they are ready for engine on monday.

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well spent a few hours in the garage today, stripping down motor and car to remove engine. attended our local AACA region Chili Cook off and hung out for a few hours there. then back home dinner and pulled the engine & Transmission. it is out of car and generally stripped down !!

 

did not take any pictures as i was working too hard and making sure i was doing things safely and correctly.

 

going to load it up and drop it at machine shop on monday. go over things to do and cost to do them. as well as timeline and time frame. once they get to the bore the cylinders i will KNOW piston size. hoping on .020 no more than .030 !!

 

maybe take some pictures tomorrow when i get out there once again.

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since i have the engine out for rebuild, the transmission had to come with it

I have gone over it and all the gears look great, no chips or damaged teeth.

is there anything i should double check replace etcc while i have it out

figure about 6+ weeks while the machine shop has the engine.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Bearings are cheap items to replace so I’d consider that and check the bushings but most time they’re in good condition.

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when i took it apart there was a minute amount of 600w in the front. i know they dribble a little since there are no seals. assume this small amount is acceptable or no ?? i know any dribble out the back goes into the union area. but when i drained the trans i got almost all of the 600w back !! so not much left the main housing !!

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few picts of the parts and pieces all over the garage, and just o think i JUST got it all cleaned up and organized with the car together !!

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Engine Pulled and ready to go to machine Shop on Monday Morning...

 

will also check up and see if i can look at the head while i am there !!

 

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was prepping to take the engine to the machine shop when they called me about my head !! it was ready for pick up.

 

he said it was warped .008 and had to machine off .012 to get it flat and cleaned up. 

 

when checking the valves (which held vacuum and passed test) he found that ALL of the valve guides were worn out and trash, and that one of them had been bored out and a larger diameter valve stem was installed so he did new valves guides, and made a new valve to math the existing ones. so now all 12 match. he did a valve job and cleaned them all up, seats were new and cleaned them up as well. also machined the manifold surface.

 

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dropped off the engine when i picked up the head.

went over plan of action, and told him if he needs any parts, call me, any questions, call me, unsure, call me :) so he knows to call me

going to strip it down and clean it up first. then determine required bore to clean it up

 

figure 6+ weeks at least, hoping to have it done and back to me by end of the year !! be my christmas present 

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