BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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borrowed a dial indicator to check travel of the cam lobe.

 

set it up with the point aiming at the center line of the cm shaft. sure it is NOT perfect, but pretty good results. tried several different ways and came out about the same results each time. +/- .015

 

found out from low to high getting about .269

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took a straight edge and laid it against the cam to see how much deviation/wear was in the lobe. you can clearly see the 3 sections that match up thte fuel pump arm :) bit not really that much wear from the standard lobe to the wear section.

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had some time tonight to work on the welded up fuel pump arm.
wire brushed it and cleaned it up and then set up my bench grinder and away we went. 
too my time to try and keep the stock looking profile. after grinding ended up with a thickness of approx .390

 

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welded up arm (yes TIG welded 2 layers)

 

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cleaned up and ground profile

 

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close up of tip

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rebuilt the fuel pump, oh yeah while waiting for the welding i did glass bead the fuel pump and my spare one. 
so it does look nicer now :) rebuilt it following TFS instructions, and tips from here ;)

went together nicely. drop of oil on each wafer, also a drop of oil around the gasket to help it seal along with glass bowl, a little dab of grease on each pin on the arm inside.

 

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Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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on the bench i was able to get approx 7-8 Hg on inlet and it holds it on output get around 1.5-2.0 PSI

that is full stroke by hand

 

i installed it on the car with a new gasket and made sure the lobe was low side to pump, high side away. in doing so there was about a 1/4" gap between block and pump mount once the arm hit the cam, then pressed in and tighten down evenly. this is what i was shooting for that way the 1/4" of fere play is null once installed. 

 

ran a test, and was able to get about 6-7Hg on suction side with about 10 seconds of turning over motor, no plugs installed, and about 1.5-2.0 PSI on the outlet.

 

shot a short video of just a few seconds of turning over, but it does build of vacuum quickly.

 

 

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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that is all i had time for, have to clean up yard, and all loose items, bring trash cans into garage, etc... preparing for Dorian heading this way !!  also had to prep my sump pump to keep water out of my garage, they are calling for 5-6 inches of rain !! so everything off the floor !!

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Did you polish the arm before installing it? With a rough ground surface, it will further abrade the cam lobe. It should be shiny like the original cam lobe for minimum friction.

 

Keep safe with that hurricane. The good news, I suppose, is it has lost strength (according to our news reports).

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8 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Did you polish the arm before installing it? With a rough ground surface, it will further abrade the cam lobe. It should be shiny like the original cam lobe for minimum friction.

 

Keep safe with that hurricane. The good news, I suppose, is it has lost strength (according to our news reports).

I will remove today or tomorrow and polish it up good, just wanted to do a test to see if it works before all that.

 

plus i have 2 new polishing wheels arriving today, I hope :) got a fine and a medium, so i can polish and clean it up nicely. or at least that is the plan

 

as for the storm, just supposed to be a lot of rain and some mild winds. so that means we all will be cleaning up yards this weekend

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Xclnt.

 

They are telling us the storm has intensified to Cat. 3 again. I hope it blows itself out over an unpopulated area; pity the wildlife though.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

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got my headlights installed and doing a test.

Parking lamps, look the same brightness and intensity

Headlamps either LOW or HIGH the drivers side is DIMMER than the passenger side

i removed the left assembly cleaned out the area around the socket, cleaned the socket, put that back together, then on the bucket wire brushed the paint off the threads removed paint off the top end of the nut where it touched the cup washer, stripped paint off the flat face that touches the nut, and the headlamp bar. stripped off paint on the headlamp bar that cup mounts to. so all those areas are metal on metal.

seems that the headlamp bar has a solid ground since the other headlamp is bright and full.

tried a test and ran a jumper ground from engine and touched it against the armor cable on drivers side and bulbs brightens up, then touched it against the passenger side and no change, so tells me passenger is grounded completely. also touched it against the socket housing on the bulbs and same results. there seems to be NO difference in the brightness of the parking lamp on either side when doing this.

did a second test of running a ground from battery directly and the same results.

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well went out and messed with the headlamps again tonight

decided to do a test to see if it is hte bucket or something else, so i swapped the reflectors assembly w/ pigtail from drivers to passenger, and test. and the drivers is still dim. so know it is bucket specific with the ground.

used my ohm meter and tested chasis ground to the headlamp bar and read o ohms, so know i have a pretty good ground.

pulled the bucket assembly off, and cleaned off all paint and primer on all connecting points. reassembled it using the carbon conductive grease to help prevent corrosion. then put in the reflector assemblies, for a test

this test was successful, both lights are bright and clear, did a ground jump wire test just to be sure and no difference in the brightness on either, so i am content for now that the ground is fixed.... i hope 

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decided to see if the fuel pump would prime.  

 

hooked up the tank line to the pump inlet, then the carburetor line to the outlet.

 

pumped for 10 seconds... nothing

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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another 10 seconds bowl is full

 

so have to say pump is officially pumping ;)  tomorrow plan to see if we can prime the carb (get fuel to it) then see if it will start & run, or at least try to.

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spent Friday night chasing ground on headlamps and testing/priming the fuel pump from Test Fire ONE failure.

 

got up this morning, went out to garage, prepped everything, and was ready to test fire. but it was a NO GO, as the key in the electrolock would not turn. key went in easily, and lock would travel slightly in and out about 1/8" or so BUT the key would NOT turn :( i jumped on here, and read up and went through my notes. gave the lock a spritz of oil in the key slot and let it sit for a few to soak in and through. then put a dab of oil on the key and worked it in and out of the slot. still no luck. so decided to tinker with other things and let it sit longer. still no luck.

 

called up Chipper to have a chat with him about electrolocks. (Thanks Chipper) end result was pulling out the electrolock assembly and shipping it out to him to take a gander. so hopefully he can see what is going on, possibly fix it for me. just another trial day for me on the 1929. seems like it does NOT want to run, well start, was running and driving when i got it, but things some up.

 

so close, but every time something else comes up and stops me from running... 

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well not much else i can do for now, just have to sit and wait for Chipper to get the electrolock and diagnose. was given a cheat, to get the car running so i could tune and prep until i get the electrolock back.

 

my understanding is the electrolock in the 1929 breaks the circuit from the coil to the distributor. so IF i installed a small machine screw into the distributor following the same sequence as i would for the electrolock for isolation then connect a lead from this bolt to a simple on/off switch. then connect a lead from the other side of the switch to the wire that connects to the electrolock under the dash. it seems that this switch would serve as the on /off that the electrolock does now. then i could test fire the car IF everything else is in order and functioning properly. just need to make suire the switch can handle the current.

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Sure would like to be there to see first fire. 

Have certainly enjoyed the progress on this great project,

Terry

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On 9/5/2019 at 9:39 PM, chistech said:

Headlight bucket ground is often a PITA!

You would be really surprised if you ran a jumper wire ground from the battery to the headlight socket - I have always tried to recreate such via soldering a jumper wire from the headlight socket to the reflector and or headlight assembly itself - usually gives me I would say about 40% more light. 

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Sucks on the electrolock. It’s pretty easy to put an insulated stud in the distributor and fire it up that way. Done it many times. Actually doing with a jumper will take one more question out of the initial start up. If it was popping out but not making proper contact or even grounding out somewhere, you’d be chasing another issue. With the ignition as basic as possible, it will be easier to get it fired up and adjusted. One car I restored using the above method ran beautifully and I installed the EL. The car ran perfectly but about a month later, refused to start. After speaking with the customer I assure him that the majority of the ignition system was good and to chase the problem to the EL and that was exactly where the failure was. The old EL’s are definitely the weak point of the Chevy ignition on the early prewar cars.

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19 hours ago, Terry Bond said:

Sure would like to be there to see first fire. 

Have certainly enjoyed the progress on this great project,

Terry

Thanks Terry

   and you are welcome over whenever you would like,

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4 hours ago, chistech said:

Sucks on the electrolock. It’s pretty easy to put an insulated stud in the distributor and fire it up that way. Done it many times. Actually doing with a jumper will take one more question out of the initial start up. If it was popping out but not making proper contact or even grounding out somewhere, you’d be chasing another issue. With the ignition as basic as possible, it will be easier to get it fired up and adjusted. One car I restored using the above method ran beautifully and I installed the EL. The car ran perfectly but about a month later, refused to start. After speaking with the customer I assure him that the majority of the ignition system was good and to chase the problem to the EL and that was exactly where the failure was. The old EL’s are definitely the weak point of the Chevy ignition on the early prewar cars.

 

Yeah simple but huge impact of functionality of the car.

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well got up this morning and decided to bypass the electrolock so made up a simple wire. made it long enough to go from distributor to dash and put a lug on one end, and a spade on the other, as i found a few dc switches in the garage electronics pile. and made another short cable to jump from electrolock wire to the switch. used a small 10-32 screw to hold the electrolcok lug to the new small wire lug, then taped it off to keep it from shorting or hitting anything.

 

used my spark tester to validate if i had spark or not, switch on spark, switch off no spark.

 

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10-32 screw used to simulate the electrolock connection at the distributor

 

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electrolock wire connected to the switch wire

 

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back of switch

 

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dash side of switch with quick custom switch mount for easy access

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well nothing left to do but fire it up, or at least try...  so Test Fire 3.0

 

did a few cycles to get fuel to the fuel bowl, and realized had a few small fuel leaks, so tightened up a few connections. and then flipped the switch and the car turned over and attempted to start, then the next tap of the starter and bammm we had ignition.

 

car fired up and ran ok, turned it off, and then attempted to start it and it fired right back up. 

 

did a little tweaking and tuning, got it set to 18 BTDC and then adjusted idle then the mixture screw. Got it down to around 600 rpm and it stayed happy. this is on the NOS Carter RJH-08 150S, if i go under this then it sputters no matter what i do with the mixture screw. note that the car also has newer valves and setup done by PO.

 

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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