Laughing Coyote Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 Looks good. I would put some kind of insulator material on the line going thru the frame rail so any vibration won't chafe a hole in it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted October 21, 2021 Author Share Posted October 21, 2021 i was looking at replacing it all together, have a coil of 5/16" steel from Inline that i used to do the fuel lines on my 1930. was wondering if it went through that hole from the factory or up in the webbing against the frame ?!? if through the hole, then need a grommet like you said to avoid chafing !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 been busy with work so not much time on the car. but took some time the other morning to replace the studs in the exhaust manifold for the exhaust pipe, and reinstall the studs for the intake manifold. ended up having to soak the 2 exhaust pipe studs, and broke one off. had to drill it out and then chase the threads, that was a slow process, but wanted to make sure i did not destroy anything. all ready to go back together and get bolted to the engine. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted November 4, 2021 Author Share Posted November 4, 2021 pulled out the old fuel line tonight will be installing a new one, steel line one piece from tank to fuel pump following the original Chevrolet Factory Routing (really close anyways) you can see some corrosion on the coper line, had to cut it to remove it since it was routed through the crossmember vs around. measured it out, was approx 113" for the main run, then 26" for the piece from the fuel pump to the carburetor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted November 9, 2021 Author Share Posted November 9, 2021 working on the fuel line, using the old copper line work on the routing of the new one. figure out the bends. more that i get into that i realize there is practically no way to put this line in without removing the brake cross shaft assembly. really hard to route the line over the cross shafts and under the battery tray arms. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted November 12, 2021 Author Share Posted November 12, 2021 Few picts of the new line straightened out. and my cheat sheet of there it runs and the line hold downs are located in the frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted November 12, 2021 Author Share Posted November 12, 2021 used the old copper line to layout a few options for routing the NEW line, also to serve as a template/guide for bending the NEW line Steel is a LOT less forgiving then the copper is 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted December 9, 2021 Author Share Posted December 9, 2021 used my copper tube guides to bend and form the new steel line. slow and steady. measure & check twice then bend, then check again. first bends were from the tank to the side frame rail. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted December 9, 2021 Author Share Posted December 9, 2021 (edited) then the long sweep bend to follow the frame rail over the axle/wheel. you can see all my marks, approx every inch for a slow long gradual bend to follow the frame contour. Edited December 9, 2021 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted December 9, 2021 Author Share Posted December 9, 2021 now to bend out and around the rear cross member this is where i used my second copper tube template, as i have to make sure i hit the line holder before and after the cross member and clear it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted December 9, 2021 Author Share Posted December 9, 2021 now for a rough fit, see if everything lines up, not an easy task with a 12ft piece of tubing inside a small garage snaking the line over the brake cross shafts, etc... but has to be done to adjust and fit. used some twist ties to assist in holding it in place 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted December 9, 2021 Author Share Posted December 9, 2021 the last bend i thought would be the easiest one, but turned out to be one of the roughest ones. a few tweaks and got it all bent and lined up to go out and over the front crossmember and line up with the hole for the clamp. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted December 9, 2021 Author Share Posted December 9, 2021 this puts the fuel line to the front of the car, plenty of spare line, once i get the engine in, then i can make the last few bends to get it to the fuel pump. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 (edited) well FINALY got a break in the weather to get the engine back in the car !! it snowed Friday night and Saturday morning, but was a grass snow, all the roads and driveways were just wet. about an inch of snow on the lawn and rooftops. so Saturday afternoon prepped the car and engine to go back in. my garage is NOT deep enough to load it in the garage, so have to roll the car out of the garage back to the cowl, then roll engine in front and drop it in. engine connected to load leveler on engine lift front of car prepped for entry Edited January 31, 2022 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 car rolled out engine & lift all lined up 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 Engine lined up and rolled in u-joint & splines lined up now to just line up the mounting points 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 Engine is now in place, all 3 mounting points lined up and hard set in place (not secured) u-joint & torque tube & shaft lined up u-joint housing shims installed and validated before installing 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Good job Jerry! I can smell the exhaust from here! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 Took some time and made sure everything was lined up, then secured the driveline to the frame, as well as the u-joint housing to the transmission. also bolted up the brake cross shafts to the transmission as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 put on the oil line clip on the drivers side, holds the oil pressure line from the oil distribution valve to the oil pressure gauge in the dash. this is a repro i made a few years go from an original one. works great 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 next up was the fuel pump... figured get this in, then i can finish the line from the fuel tank to the pump. this way there is nothing in the way. i marked off where the starter sits so that i can go around it. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_P Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 Looking great! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 spent the day finishing up the fuel line had to do the 2 bends from the line to the fuel pump, used my old copper line to make the bends and lay out a guide for bending the steel !! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 once that was finished, went back and secured it in place with the clips down the passenger side. the main fuel line to fuel pump is complete & secure. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 next up was the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor did a rough install of the exhaust manifold with the carburetor attached to know exactly where the line had to go. used the old copper line as a guide to bend the new steel line. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 connected the oil pressure gauge line to the oil distribution block this was probably the easiest thing i did today !! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 was a pretty successful day, next should be doing all the bolt on items, should start moving a little faster now... 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 Installed the passenger side splash pan last night. always a fun task getting it in there just right and all the holes lined up. figured get that in before anything else so that i have more room to work around to get it situated Drivers side will go in later, doing one side at a time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 next up was the starter, get it in, lined up and then power from the battery and then the wire to the dash pretty simple install, the Rubber boot was added after several discussions and an incident where the electrolock cable brushed by the starter post and threw sparks everywhere !! this isolated and protects the starter post which is positive (Direct to the Battery) from the electrolock (which is ground) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 next up begins the fun adventure. Distributor !! which was rebuilt by Skip with new point set & condensor. used my compression gauge to ensure i had cylinder 1 at Top Dead Center (TDC) this way i can set in the distributor and ensure it is on 1. used my tool and lined up the oil pump so that the distributor can seat fully. dropped in the thrust washer, and after a little tinkering and adjusting it dropped right in. installed the spark cable bracket to the block, put in the distributor adjustment screw for the spark cable, this limits the range/motion of the distributor when using the spark cable. adjusted and set the point gap to .018", should be rough timed for now secured the distributor in place next up i put the spark cable in place and made sure it worked and moved freely, also put in a few drops of oil in the line to keep it freely moving. now hte electrolock, luckily i have a colored cheat sheet that have been using, and done this a few times, so was not that difficult. always double check the order and that everything is in its place, especially the isolators for the points/contact. then secure it in place. dropped in a new rotor button and distributor cap. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 few more items and this side will be complete spark plug wire holder spark plug & coil wires new coil install 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 Swapped out the coil want to make sure all ignition items are NEW. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 installed the spark plug wires and the wire bracket 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 now to the other side, plugs will go in later, leaving them out for ease of cranking engine by hand !! went ahead and set the valves cold, and made sure the wicks were installed and set 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 installed the wire clips and ran the headlight wire across the front before the radiator goes in. the other wire is the signal wire ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 installed generator & bracket, lined up the pulleys and dropped on the belt then set up the tensioner 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 saturday afternoon spent a little time on the 1929 put the manifold together and installed it in the car. everything went in loose and then tightened one everything was seated correctly. want to try to ensure there NO leaks, also reason why i had machine shop machine all faces !! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 connected up the vacuum line for the wiper switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 Put in the carburetor (this is a Carter RJH-08 150S) yeah i know it is not correct, but it the efficient and an upgrade over the 125S also connected the NEW fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 put in the pedals, clutch & brake, will connect them when i install the toeboard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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