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Everything posted by Ken_P

  1. Been there myself, and a break and encouragement helped. I’ve seen the work you do - you’re no tractor mechanic! I’m sure you’ll get it sorted eventually. Enjoy Hershey! I can’t escape work this year, but wishing you the best of times!
  2. To be clear, that is with the tow vehicle still attached.
  3. Matt- I feel for you. This sucks… it’s a beautiful car, and I hope it works out for you. I wish I could come help you work on it- work says I can’t, and my car is sitting in my garage torn apart, but I feel for you. Good luck, whatever happens.
  4. I think a couple of those boys passed me last time I towed through Jersey.
  5. I really get tired of people telling me my car should come with a tommy gun… but the one that grinds my gears is when people talk about fixing the breaks on their car.
  6. Yes- I was beat to the suggestion, but pull the muffler and try again. Cheap and easy. We’re all pulling for you brother. Best of luck!
  7. Most printers have a fold out tray for individual feed that will accept much thicker paper. Designed for card stock, not a gasket, but great tip! Thanks @carbking
  8. Sounds good man! I might be your acolyte as king of overkill. Those studs look pretty beefy though. Can’t wait to see it run!
  9. Well, I owe Ed a bottle of something brown. He called it. The radiator core is supposed to flow 28-32 gpm. It flows 12. I know it’s a newer core, so that sure looks like my culprit! The shop said radiator looks great, except for the fact it doesn’t flow the right amount. No amount of evaporust in the world is fixing that!
  10. Me three! Matt, is your radiator as mounted as it’s going to get? Looks like it might have a chance to wiggle around a bit. I know you’re not running the mechanical fan, but just a thought.
  11. Another Lazarus thread! I don’t like any extra lights. Too often people seem to think if you have a big classic, or a mid range sedan like mine, you have to throw the accessory catalog at it! I like to key the lines of the car do the talking I don’t drive my car at night often, and if I do, it’s typically for short distances, in more populated areas (well-lit). If I was going to tour at night, I might to try to find a way to temporarily mount a 6v LED light bar or driving lights just for driving, and remove them the rest of the time.
  12. No apologies needed! I just thought it was interesting. I’ve learned some things for sure.
  13. Nope. I get them close to the frame, then pick up the front of the trailer with the trailer jack, and that presses the back of the trailer frame into the jack stands. If you want more adjustability, you may be able to find a short set of screw jacks for the same effect.
  14. It's amazing that a 1 word reply resurrected a 10 year old thread! We should start calling these Lazarus threads. 🤣
  15. In the past, I’ve been successful by putting jack stands under the frame at the back of the trailer, just forward of the rear door, then unhooking the trailer. Gives you three points of contact plus the wheels, and prevents the front of the trailer from lifting the jack off of the ground when unloading or loading a car. For the show field, may want to have 2 squares of plywood or something similar to prevent the jack stands from sinking into the turf.
  16. I see you re-posted here in the technical section. I won’t repeat my advice here, but it’s a great looking car! Tons of knowledge on this site. Good luck!
  17. If you’ve checked the radiator flow, checked the block clean, take a look at your plugs. Maybe it’s running very lean? If those check out, do wet and dry compression checks and a leak down check, to make sure your head gasket is sealing. I would also dig into the water jacket as much as you can.
  18. Matt, that is a button to spin the starter, and you're right it is really handy. It should have a little cap to cover the button. I've almost lost the cap on my solenoid no less the 10 times; somehow still have it. I think a valve stem cap might fit; it looks similar.
  19. You may have misunderstood me. Force and acceleration are both vectors, but that's not the whole story. Newtonian physics assume perfectly elastic collisions. Vehicle collisions are inelastic - not all force is transferred from one body to the other as motion. A vector analysis of a crash wouldn't add up. Much of the force of a collision is converted to work, by things such as the crumpling of sheet metal, compression of deployed air-bags, losses to friction, etc. Pool balls colliding are pretty close to elastic collisions - minimal friction, no deformation of materials involved in the collision, etc. Vehicle collisions are not so simple. Newtonian equations are simple, and very useful, but don't account for all of the energy absorbed in a collision. The reason modern cars are safer, even with reduced mass, is because they are designed to absorb much of the force of the collision (the kinetic energy of the crash) via crumpling, material deflection, etc. vice behaving more elastically (less deflection) and forcing your body to absorb the force. Interestingly - my 1937 Packard 120 weighs 3,300lbs, a brand new Hyundai Sonata weights about 3,100 lbs - so not that different. Granted a '70s El Dorado weighs about 5,000 lbs.
  20. And absorbs much of the force via the deflection, which is something the Newtonian equations don't account for.
  21. How’s it holding up? I’ve been tempted by then before. Costco has some nice boxes too. My dad got one several years ago and it still works like new.
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