a sell

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  1. Where I store my cars there is a 30 model Willys Knight with the 8. I think it has 24,000 miles on it. An amazing original example of a fine automobile. He called me up one day and asked me to help him with the engine. Not having worked on a model of this stature it was a treat. It would run but had no power. After some research the original distributor had two sets of points. My experience with two points has been in cars where the use of them was to extend the spark to burn more fuel thus reducing emissions. The use on this example was that one bank of 4 cylinders was fired with one set of points while the other bank of four cylinders was fired by the other point set. Took a little sleuthing but I was finally able to find the problem in a grounded out set of points. A little tinkering and the car ran perfectly again. Unfortunately when it came time for his memorial I could not get that thing running again even though I spent about 2 weeks on it. I kept thinking about the old song "My grandfathers clock" Art
  2. I have a used rad out of a 41 New Yorker I would like to sell. The top tank has had a small patch added for some reason. But it is such an unusual tank shape I did not want to take it down to the recycler. Art
  3. When I set up the rear axles on the model 72 coupe I just sold I used a dial indicator on the end of the axle. I bought a shim pack before proceeding. The seal retainer is also the bearing retainer and the shims under it sets the amount of clearance. When everything finally warms up there will be a pre-load on the tapered axle bearings. Don't forget the slotted spacer between the axle ends also comes into play. Do not jamb it to one side and assume everything will be alright. These were precision class automobile for their time, and cost 4 times what my little Chevrolet coupe did. Art
  4. Zenith made replacement carburetors for virtually every make and model. I have a carb and the advertisement for my 29 Chev. The mounting holes are set at about a 30 degree angle. Art
  5. Vancouver land has become a VERY valuable commodity. From what I have been told the widow of the original owner is selling the land so the wrecking yard will be reduced to the 5 acres included with the shop. A prime example of a "fire sale", everything must go. Art
  6. Make some yard art out of it. An old bearing a few pieces of pipe and you've got yourself a windmill. Just have fun with it, or give it to someone who has the time to be creative. Art
  7. Looks like you are trying to mate a post 55 fan to a pre 55 water pump. Personally now that you have drilled it out I don't know if I would trust it. It will probably crack right around the holes. The post 55 fan mounted on a shaft that stuck out further and missed the lower pulley that way. Some of the pre 55 fans were notched to miss the lower pulley, others had smaller blades since the water pump pulley on a pre 55 fan spins faster than a post 55 fan due to the size of the pulleys. Art
  8. Hello Old Buicks. It depends if it is an early, or a late 28 truck. If it is an early truck that should be the came length as a 27 car. If it is a late truck that would be the same length as a 28 car. Just like there are two lengths of 4 cylinder water pump in 28. Measure your spacing between the shoulder on the radiator and the shoulder on the cowl. From what we know now Chevrolet had succeeded Ford for the #1 auto manufacturing position when Ford had shut down to convert their factories from the model T to the model A. Not to loose that position Chevrolet made their transition from the 4 to the 6 in 2 years. In the 28 cars they extended the frame 4 inches and added 4 wheel brakes. The trucks changed in mid year, so the early trucks were a holdover from 27 and did not have 4 wheel brakes as far as I know. And they had the shorter hood. You might have better luck over on the VCCA web site. Send me a PM and I can send you a lead. Art
  9. Hello Meskhov, If you have your engine apart can I ask you to do a quick measure of your connecting rods for me? Are they 8" center to center, 1.5" crank journal, 13/16" piston pin diameter? Not sure if these measurements are for a W4, or a W5. Thanks - Art
  10. There was a 17 White truck rolling chassis out in Scapoose OR for quite awhile. Not sure what happened to it but you may see if you can find someone who can track it down for you.
  11. The thing about the powerglides is that you want to be at the very bottom mark of the dipstick, not all the way full. Seems that at the full mark it will leak past the converter seal and leave a pool under your car every time.
  12. Looks to be a late 31 style with the single piece bumper instead of the two piece early bars. If if has not been done STRONGLY recommend replacing the windshield from the original 1/4" plate glass to safety glass. You do not want a rock or something else turning that glass into 6" long daggers. Safety glass became standard on Chevrolet models in 32. A VCCA article some years back highlighted some of the differences between an early 31, and a late 31. Even the wood was somewhat different. Go to Bill Barkers 31 Chev site for info on tuning up and waking up your early 6 engine. A must read. Art PS The Filling Station carries hub caps for your rims.
  13. LM was for a 28 Capitol truck. I think that was the early 28 truck without 4 wheel brakes. LP was late 28/early 29, and LQ was late 29. Unlike cars the truck models changed mid year, around June. I would have to look up which plant was #6 Art
  14. The 3rd brush in the generator regulates the generator output. The cut out is only a switch and is activated at 700 to 1,000 rpms. Get a 29 service/owners manual from the Filling Station. It will make your maintenance, adjustments, and repairs so much easier. The basic difference between a 28, and a 29 cut out is the orientation position where it is mounted on the generator. The 28 is crosswise, and the 29 is in line with the generator body. Many people have changed the internal components of their cut outs out to a large diode. When the cover is on the only one who will know is you. I have had cut outs stick closed and drained the battery. There are two manufacturers of actual regulators for these old generators. One fits into the band and the other replaces the internals of the cut out. Art
  15. Hello Frank, in reality you do not need it to get your brakes adjusted well. I have had a 29 coupe for coming up on 20 years. Start by getting all pivots, rods, pins and bushings completely freed up and well oiled. Not WD40 it dries out, actual oil like it says in the service manual. They must not have any resistance so the springs can return everything back to its at rest position. Even the linkages at the rear wheels that don't look important are. All the spring bushings should be in good condition because if the axle can shift around all your adjustment are useless. The other thing you MUST do is buy a 29 service manual. They are not that much money. One big thing to remember is that when APPLIED the rods should be perpendicular to the lever being applied not when they are at rest. Do not adjust the brake pedal at the top of its travel. The rear bands are contracting and as the drums heat up they will expand to the point of seriously dragging. I have a drawing of both the 28, and 29 adjusting blocks, but have never found the need to actually make one. I believe the originals were steel but if you still felt the need laminated plywood will work fine for the few times you might need it. Once a year before touring season roll around underneath the car and re-oil all brake components, everything. These are very simple well built cars and with a little guidance and patience you can do anything needed on them. Art