a sell

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Everything posted by a sell

  1. Hello Old Buicks. It depends if it is an early, or a late 28 truck. If it is an early truck that should be the came length as a 27 car. If it is a late truck that would be the same length as a 28 car. Just like there are two lengths of 4 cylinder water pump in 28. Measure your spacing between the shoulder on the radiator and the shoulder on the cowl. From what we know now Chevrolet had succeeded Ford for the #1 auto manufacturing position when Ford had shut down to convert their factories from the model T to the model A. Not to loose that position Chevrolet made their transition from the 4 to the 6 in 2 years. In the 28 cars they extended the frame 4 inches and added 4 wheel brakes. The trucks changed in mid year, so the early trucks were a holdover from 27 and did not have 4 wheel brakes as far as I know. And they had the shorter hood. You might have better luck over on the VCCA web site. Send me a PM and I can send you a lead. Art
  2. Hello Meskhov, If you have your engine apart can I ask you to do a quick measure of your connecting rods for me? Are they 8" center to center, 1.5" crank journal, 13/16" piston pin diameter? Not sure if these measurements are for a W4, or a W5. Thanks - Art
  3. There was a 17 White truck rolling chassis out in Scapoose OR for quite awhile. Not sure what happened to it but you may see if you can find someone who can track it down for you.
  4. The thing about the powerglides is that you want to be at the very bottom mark of the dipstick, not all the way full. Seems that at the full mark it will leak past the converter seal and leave a pool under your car every time.
  5. Looks to be a late 31 style with the single piece bumper instead of the two piece early bars. If if has not been done STRONGLY recommend replacing the windshield from the original 1/4" plate glass to safety glass. You do not want a rock or something else turning that glass into 6" long daggers. Safety glass became standard on Chevrolet models in 32. A VCCA article some years back highlighted some of the differences between an early 31, and a late 31. Even the wood was somewhat different. Go to Bill Barkers 31 Chev site for info on tuning up and waking up your early 6 engine. A must read. Art PS The Filling Station carries hub caps for your rims.
  6. LM was for a 28 Capitol truck. I think that was the early 28 truck without 4 wheel brakes. LP was late 28/early 29, and LQ was late 29. Unlike cars the truck models changed mid year, around June. I would have to look up which plant was #6 Art
  7. The 3rd brush in the generator regulates the generator output. The cut out is only a switch and is activated at 700 to 1,000 rpms. Get a 29 service/owners manual from the Filling Station. It will make your maintenance, adjustments, and repairs so much easier. The basic difference between a 28, and a 29 cut out is the orientation position where it is mounted on the generator. The 28 is crosswise, and the 29 is in line with the generator body. Many people have changed the internal components of their cut outs out to a large diode. When the cover is on the only one who will know is you. I have had cut outs stick closed and drained the battery. There are two manufacturers of actual regulators for these old generators. One fits into the band and the other replaces the internals of the cut out. Art
  8. Hello Frank, in reality you do not need it to get your brakes adjusted well. I have had a 29 coupe for coming up on 20 years. Start by getting all pivots, rods, pins and bushings completely freed up and well oiled. Not WD40 it dries out, actual oil like it says in the service manual. They must not have any resistance so the springs can return everything back to its at rest position. Even the linkages at the rear wheels that don't look important are. All the spring bushings should be in good condition because if the axle can shift around all your adjustment are useless. The other thing you MUST do is buy a 29 service manual. They are not that much money. One big thing to remember is that when APPLIED the rods should be perpendicular to the lever being applied not when they are at rest. Do not adjust the brake pedal at the top of its travel. The rear bands are contracting and as the drums heat up they will expand to the point of seriously dragging. I have a drawing of both the 28, and 29 adjusting blocks, but have never found the need to actually make one. I believe the originals were steel but if you still felt the need laminated plywood will work fine for the few times you might need it. Once a year before touring season roll around underneath the car and re-oil all brake components, everything. These are very simple well built cars and with a little guidance and patience you can do anything needed on them. Art
  9. Hello Don, I have a spare steering column. It is not rebuilt. Bearings and guidance to rebuild these steering boxes is available. Send me an email at beaconb3@gmail.com if interested. Art
  10. a sell

    20's frame

    Have you talked to a Jewett owner? When I was trying to get my Chrysler brakes sorted out a fellow who had two mid 20s Jewetts was the best source. He told me the external band Lockheed hydraulic brakes were an option on Jewetts and standard on Chrysler. Art
  11. I have heard WD-40 if allowed to soak in can soften up old rubber. Might be worth a try.
  12. Have you looked at Roberts Motor Company?
  13. Would you be interested in a model 72? The '29 75 was a hold over of the '28 72 with a few minor body modifications. Many parts on a 77 were different from the 72, or 75. Not sure whether the engine was a continuation from the two earlier series.
  14. 46 trucks did not have a synchronized 4 speed. The 3 speed however was in 2nd, and 3rd gears. The Advanced Design model did. Not sure if that started with the first year in mid 1947, or later. In the AD model the 3/4 ton models were unique in that they had an open drive line to the carrier bearing so it might work in your 39 either. Pull the top off of the transmission and look for the brass synchronizer rings. Art
  15. You might post this on the VCCA.org website as well.
  16. Hello nas90tdi The 28 is a popular model, and more mechanical components were save for it than almost any other year of early Chevrolet. I see by the lic plate you are in Washington State. I am a member of the Columbia River Region VCCA Portland/Vancouver. We can help you find a good candidate engine. Send me an email at beaconb3@gmail.com Art
  17. There are numerous utube videos on how to steam bend wood for a variety of applications on a car or boat. Or you could laminate them. When I had my irons repaired by John Bouranakis in Dairy CA I just had him make three bows as well. The dimension he needed was the measurement across the pivots where the irons mount to the body, minus 1" to give it some tension. To get the length between the end of the irons and the actual bow I drew it up in autocad. I could manipulate so I could see it up, or down. So for my project it worked out at 7.5" This is a 2 person Chevrolet top going onto a 28 depression style RP.
  18. The experience I had with my 29 coupe was. When I finally got it going and somewhat dependable, near our house the main way home had us going down a hill and turning right onto an uphill. After the corner going uphill it would hammer for about 300 feet. I would have to take it real easy until it would refill whatever reservoir had emptied out and stop knocking. This was in a residential area so we were only going 20 to 25 mph. The assumption was it was one of the main bearings. I put a 30 to 32 pump in there drilled out the block to 1/4" pipe from the 1/8th inch original and didn't have any more problems until the valves gave out about 5 years later. The 29 pump is one of the few hold over parts from 28 but has 2 more rod sumps to keep full. Maybe the original 29 pump will work fine for the area you drive in. Art
  19. I have some 29 Chevrolet parts, what exactly are you looking for? You can send me a PM Art
  20. I'll give you $50 for that old car mister. Yes its a coach the most popular model for 1928. Go to old car manual project online for more information. Art
  21. Note the truck was posted in 2011. Probably long gone.
  22. Some pictures of the rest of the car would be helpful. Since your tag is held on with screws instead of rivets this may be an instance of the tag not matching the rest of the story. I am working on a 28 open car, and have a 29 coupe. Art
  23. In the states not sure the Valiant was made in a convertible. The companion cars Plymouth Barricuda, and the Dodge Dart were made as convertibles from 1967 to 1968. We have a 67 Dart convertible. In Sandy Oregon Wildcat Auto Wrecking has a 70 Dart convertible clone. It had been hit real hard and they grafted the front end and rear quarters off of a 70. A real head turner. These models are power top cars. Wildcat specializes in Mopar products.
  24. There are some things on there that say 32. 32 was the first year of the cowl vent, and 32 was also the first year that had the little pointed details on the fenders. The bed was used from 31 to 33 so that is not a 1 year item. If he is not going to restore it I might be interested in some of the parts especially the bed. Too bad there isn't any of the mechanical components. Art
  25. I think I have a DRT 08 in my Chevy parts. Can you give me a little more info to help identify the one you are looking for?