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Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models


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I'm glad all 15 blades are finished without major accident. Then, it was time to assemble the whole package. I soldered pins on top of the shutter frame; on the bottom, I did a bar with the needed pins. The assembly requires steady hands and it can be done without too much drama. The lower bar with the pins is jamming lightly when installed, therefore no gluing or soldering is needed. I will have to ad retainers to the actuating bar on top because it disengages very easily from the blades; this will be done after final painting. 
Due to minute dimension differences, the blades are not opening or closing as much as I expected, but this is really a minor detail. The actuating rod coming from the thermostat is still missing. Of course, I will not do the thermostat; however, there is a cover to hide it, it's not yet done.
I will do now the radiator's surround which allows the radiator to be firmly attached to the frame.

525 Open.JPG

526 Partially closed.JPG

527 Closed.JPG

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Oh, my! This is even neater than I expected. The adult in me realizes that the craftsmanship and research, along with dedication is again present. But, the best part is in the childlike thrill of seeing something wonderful growing nearer to its culmination. Roger, maybe they have a medal in Switzerland to honor the few like you that are examples of your country's artists and diplomats of culture to all viewers. I'm honored to be among them. Thank you.

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Thanks to all for the comments! You know, Pat, it's maybe my frustration when I was a kid to have toys on which you could not open the doors, steer the front wheels, etc. So, if I'm adding some frivolities like adjustable shutter or working brakes...it's the boy in me who do that! Even when old, a man still stays as a kid...

My comments from Sunday regarding the thermostat are wrong. The mechanism is not behind a cover, it's in plain view. So, I will have to do something which will look like the real thing. 

Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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Roger,

 

NEVER GROW UP !   The kid in all of us, no matter what age, keeps us young and energetic, even though our bodies don't cooperate all the time. 

 

The radiator and shutters look like the "real deal".  You did a phenominal  job in scaling down the shutters.  And the fact that they will be operational so you can "stage" them closed, open or any where inbetween is amazing considering that it is 1:12.  If the engine ran, they would be operational !   

 

What people may not grasp is how difficult it is to work on 1:12 vs 1:1.  Granted, the parts are much smaller but......THEY HAVE TO FIT AND FUNCTION.  The tollerances at that scale are so miniscule it is baffling. It is more difficult to master at that small scale vs. working on  full size car panels or parts.  You make it look easy.......... but it is not.  

 

We cannot wait to see the next "installment" on this Cadillac.

 

Randy

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Some days ago, I was writing about the kid in me and the frustration with toy cars I got.

Over the years, I kept 3 of them (I had no much more, money was tight at home) I'm showing here. The first one, made in Germany, is a fun one: its either a coupe or convertible. A lever in the frame is making the module to turn. That toy has a clockwork, still functioning. Probably the spring was replaced by my father, because the actual one is so strong that it push down the "frame" when is relax situation.

The next toy is looking like a Lincoln early fifties. According to the hole on the left side, it had also a clockwork which is gone, as well as the bulbs at the headlamps. It's made in Germany.

Then there is a toy looking like a Ford from the fifties; it had probably an electric motor which is gone. I have the impression that I was not very skillful as a kid! 

And the last one is an electric engine. My father did an adaptation with a steel wire emerging at the front and at the rear. We played in the kitchen: when the engine came at one wall, the wire was pushed back, inversing the direction of the toy. Still functioning.

When did I got those toys? at 8, 10 years old? I have no idea...It means that those toys are between 65 and 70 years old and they still have a decent paint!

Now, the next question: I should sell them, I will not play with them anymore. What is their value? are they, by the way, collected? Should I publish them into the appropriate forum?

As many people are looking at my adventures, I hope I will get some constructive answers, thanks in advance.

Convertible.JPG

Coupe.JPG

Ford.JPG

Lincoln.JPG

Engine.JPG

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Roger those are very cool, there is most definitely a collector market for them, but I don't know enough about it to offer up any values. I am sure though that if you were to sell them, I doubt that the new owner would be playing with them either, they are destined to a display case.

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To attach the radiator on the frame, I had to do the support. It has two tasks: as I wrote, to attach the radiator on the frame and it's the support also for the radiator surround.
I tried to replicate the attaching points for the surround; for the moment no holes are drilled because I have to find first suitable screws.
I wrote in one of my ports that there is a cap over the thermostat, but it's not correct. Therefore, I have to make a simplified set-up, just to attach the rod actuating the shutter.

528 Radiator support.JPG

529 Radiator and support.JPG

530 Radiator and support.JPG

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One of the last element added to the radiator is the thermostat system. Of course, there is just a movable lever and behind, nothing! 
As the base with the lever is soft soldered to the "nut", I exceptionally glued the assembly to the radiator with a two components glue.
The last part to be added is the shroud.

531 Thermostat.JPG

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13 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

Thanks Neil! If this car is really unrestored, its condition is amazing. I appreciate your thought!

The driver (friend of the owner) told me it was an "unrestored original," but of course I have no independent knowledge of that.  It looked original to me, although the blue color seemed a bit bright for limousine from that era.  Maybe it had a repaint somewhere along the line.  The interior looked original, but I didn't want to take a photo of the rear compartment out of respect for the two passengers who were in there.  Here are two more photos.

 

Plaidtour7.jpg.1c50a6b8833c28f69d66eb7acb495dc0.jpg

Plaidtour10.jpg.014fa2a09ae32fb8e731af384fadc42e.jpg

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Roger,

 

I just can't get over how realistic the radiator, surround and louvers look.  And to know the depth of the details and how you achieved them will only be known to you and us who follow this thread. 

 

When the Cadillac is sitting on a display shelf, and a casual onlooker will be viewing the model, little will they know of the efforts and time taken to sort out every detail to ensure that it is as close to the original as possible. 

 

Having a 1:1 for sourcing the parts that you can see, measure and fabricate helps, but it still takes an engineering mind to translate that to the actual part.  It is really rewarding to see you complete the next hurdle and get this Cadillac to the next step.  And as Neil said; "I'm running out of words to describe my amazement!"  Masterfully done, Roger.  

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Roger,

The radiator and surround's details are fantastic !  Authentication of each part to get it as close to the original just baffels me.  Very few modelers would have the ability or know how to do what you have done here.  BUT........this isn't your first trip to the Rodeo, eh?  After the Avanti, the Toronado and the Continental, your skills are so honed, there isn't much that you can look at and NOT figure a way to replicate the part.  

 

As I have said in previous posts to the threads, at night, your mind probably doesn't go to sleep without puzzling over the next hurdle and how you will get there.  

 

It is such a rarity that we have a consummate craftsman, artist, (and everything else) wrapped up in one package that we get to follow along with on the journey.   A highlight of my day when I go to the AACA forums and open your thread to see  a new posting and what you have accomplished since the last visit. 

 

As the engine and chassis are nearing completion, have you thought about what body you have in mind for the model?  Coupe, Touring Sedan, Roadster or Phaeton.  So many choices.   I can't wait to see what you have in mind.

 

 

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The front brakes were long overdue. Even if the radiator is not 100% finished, I did the final installation of the cable and casing. I intended to silver solder the tiny tube arresting the cable at the wheel but I opted for soft soldering. I was wise: I had to adjust the position of that tube to get the proper cable length. For that, I had to remove the wheel shield (one side at the time); at first, I did not recall how it was attached to the axle!
Finally, I have functioning brakes at all four wheel, a first to me, thanks the entirely mechanical actuating of the brakes.
Oh, I will not leave four black markings on the "street", but each wheel has some braking by pushing the pedal even when the front wheels are steered. 

534 Front brakes.JPG

535 at the wheel.JPG

536 At the wheel.JPG

537 at the frame.JPG

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Well, the first step is done: the pattern or male mold. The challenge was to do the lines on the central section. After a disastrous try, I imagined another way to make the lines by turning a cutting tool 90° and moving it along the brass part. This time the result was good.
In fact, that mold is done in 3 separate parts because it was not possible to have a sharp beginning/ending of the lines with the ends attached.
The first picture is showing how I did the lines; the second one is the mold completed with an end plate. I will now play with various RTVs hoping to get two acceptable hoses.

538 Machining the pattern.JPG

539 Pattern ready.JPG

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Doing tires was easier than the water hoses! If the negative mold was unproblematic, the hose itself was hit and miss. To spray the separating wax, I had to split the negative mold, "open" it with fingers while spraying the product. After a while, the mold unrolled it, allowing to spray the wax on the total inner surface. After a while, the mold closed itself again but was swelled. I had to wait some more hours to slip the mold into a tube done to guide the inner core. 
Finally, I have one almost perfect and two with various imperfections. As the good one was more as an accident, I decided that it's now enough.
By the way, the negative mold was usually destroyed by peeling it from the cast tube.
It seems that I don't have enough with silicone rubber: I will now do both rubber booths for the front brake. I will use for that the same Sylgard from Dow Corning I have since more than 40 years. I did the tires for the Toronado and the rest was kept in the refrigerator as this product is ideal for small elements. It can be heated at about 100°C and get cured in 5 minutes...

540 Water hoses.JPG

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I began the rubber boots for the brakes and went up to the negative mold. Studently, I had enough and wanted to do something else. I just choose the draft tubes. I had many pictures from the upper halves, but few from the bottom. Anyway, enough to guess how they end. Most probably, there will be a discrepancy compared to the originals; who cares?
I had to remove the distributor to have access to some screws at the right. As the parts are clean, they got a light coat of primer.

541 Draft tubes.JPG

542 Draft tubes.JPG

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