Larry Schramm

And we are moving back to that technology. This is Michelin's offering.

Also, on transmission fluid, you can use any GM fluid that has a higher number than what was originally in the vehicle. You can use Dex 6 if you want to.

Vehicles of that era had issues with the coil packs going bad. Easy way to check the integrity of the coils is to purchase 3 of these spark testers. Remove one of the spark plug wires for each of the coils, put the spark plug wire on the tester top, clip the tester onto the coil tower and then start the car. If the car will idle for about 10 minutes without starting to miss or stumble, the coils and ignition system is fine. If it starts to miss/stumble, look at which tester is not sparking. That is the bad coil. There were two types of coils used in that era. The single coil pack made by Magnavox will require the complete coil pack to be replaced. The other style is three individual coils made by Delco are replaceable individually. You only need to replace the bad coil. Also when looking at the coil area, be sure to check the ground that is under the coil pack. Make sure you remove, clean, and retighten the surfaces on both ends of the wire. It will save you other issues.

Good article

Which joint is bad? The one you show, or the other end? I had a place here in the Detroit area completely rebuild the joint/ torque ball for my 1915 Buick truck. They did a nice job.

Qualified help that will listen are willing to be mentored and listen to experience is a tough row to hoe anywhere. I currently work part time for a tier one supplier to the OEM auto companies and trying to help the millennial group of young engineers is difficult at best. They may be book smart, but practical experience is in short supply or non existent. Many of their comments are roughly, "We designed in on the tube, CAD so it will work." That is not true. Note: I retired after almost 40 years at GM including time in manufacturing working in the plants and eventually retiring from engineering. Lots of practical experience along with book learning.

Here is our van at the Busses By The Bridge event this year at Lake Havasu City, AZ. https://www.golakehavasu.com/buses-by-the-bridge-2023 https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=ALiCzsZmnC-1QwA6UyHzWuJCfbW3VtWDFg:1667914323668&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=busses+by+the+bridge&client=opera&fir=OKW7fvN1UisjhM%2CY2GgPqkLDzRkYM%2C_%3B_lWArnBkZT5qoM%2CVlvIf1T9OqrxcM%2C_%3BC1NlZFltH2spMM%2CWz4blvww2wRmnM%2C_%3Ba3DskwMcAqCHXM%2CWz4blvww2wRmnM%2C_%3BSE7cGakhOJ4E6M%2CXPidYep294DdbM%2C_%3BZAMw_tQXTS7MxM%2CVqDIpkNQuhZmQM%2C_%3BYpOFeEZm2x17kM%2C8WfklqHSDVG4cM%2C_%3B4-QRtp_QN41bDM%2CuT065zOclTUkcM%2C_%3B610vYgUXHMHc6M%2CwyX6V-YZqo105M%2C_%3BHgZeOSwBbMcB-M%2CY2GgPqkLDzRkYM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kQuRiBrY3ELjvwxZUEiBxJBMtkYVQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwilqJyG2Z77AhUcITQIHVP0DhwQjJkEegQIPBAC&biw=1880&bih=939&dpr=1

As Paul stated earlier, to be sure you are covered for everything behind the tow vehicle, get separate insurance for the trailer. If I remember, it costs about $175/year for my car trailer. Then you need insurance for your old vehicle that you are towing. That is a separate policy. If something happens while towing, each policy should cover the insured item. That is how I have my insurance in place. As EmTee states, talk to your agent and read your policy.

Look here for the spider gears that you are missing along with the pin. The parts are shown in the upper left corner. This is a new modern axle, but the basic design has not changed much in over 100 years. https://www.morris4x4center.com/dana-model-27-rear-jeep-axle-parts.html

Phil, Living in NC, you might want to contact Dean Tryon. He lives in NC. Very active in early Buicks. Follow this link and you should be able to get in contact with him. https://triangleaaca.org

It is definitely a GM alternator. I would not even try to guess what you have. If you look at the top of the alternator you will see two terminals that are usually used for the voltage regulator and there is nothing connected to them. You need to take the unit to a reputable shop and have them see what you have. Might just be cheaper to buy a new unit that is correct to what you want on your car.

They used to work for Chrysler…. No, I think either the Japanese or Germans. Having worked on enough of their cars, I think their motto is Just because you can, we will, but do not forget Rolls Royce.

Forrest Gump said it best, “Stupid is as stupid does.” Ron White said "You can't fix stupid" Both equally apply.

My son has the same problem on his '08 VW Tiguan. It was not just GM.

Usually simpler and cheaper to fix it back to original. Plus you get the value of driving the car/vehicle as it was new. Also usually easier to fix if it is original and you need to get a particular part.

I would chuck the cheap meter. You always want to know what the correct voltage is, even on low voltage systems. I have had meters that went AWOL and they promptly went into the trash.

Why does your meter not have a decimal point? I might question what the numbers mean. It should have a decimal point to be able to tell you what the numbers mean in a voltage. Without the decimal point, the 626 could mean 6.26 volts or .626 volts. Same goes for the 001 number. Setting the meter on the 20 only means that if you connect the meter to a voltage over 20 volts you will either blow a fuse of toast the meter. Just my experience using a DVOM.

The pump you show is an air ride air pump for the rear shocks. You can just unplug it to get it to stop running, but the rear of the car may sag some especially if you put some back seat riders and also stuff in the trunk. If it runs with the car just sitting there, first look at the car from the side. If it is of equal height front to back, then it is a faulty level control module that connects I remember from the car body to the rear axle. If my memory is correct, it is a square black box about 6"x 6" and about 1.5" thick with a lever attached to the side. That could be bad. Also, if the pump is running listen for a damaged/broken air line to the air shocks or a bad shock with a leak. System is fairly simple, but you just need to take some time to diagnose the system.

I would agree on putting a double master cylinder, but the rest of the work IMO is really unnecessary. If all of the brake and suspension components are repaired/ refurbished to original factory standards, the car will run and stop fine. I am confident is saying this because I had a '63 Skylark and never had any issues with braking except on ice. 🙂

I would take the alternator off the car and take it to a repair shop and have them check it for either 6 or 12 volt output. It is possible that someone had it changed over to 6 volts. Just a way to confirm what the output of the alternator is.

From my experience, if a radiator is questionable, just re-core it. Bite the bullet now as a re-core will be cheaper today than in the future. Especially if you plan on driving the vehicle. If you are going to drive it minimally and let it mostly sit, put a radiator in it that looks good and does not leak. IMO and experience.

Was it for customers, or employee families? Sounds more like recognition for families that have worked for Buick for multiple generations.

Maybe this will save your neck.

Do you know the story of this picture? I would imagine it is interesting.

I would run a separate wire from the battery negative terminal back to the fuel tank sending wire. That would be a good ground. Anything else is suspect. If the gauge still shows full, then take that wire and touch it to the back of the gauge where the tank unit wire is attached. If the gauge still shows full, then a bad gauge.