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If there is no compression at all in one cylinder, it does sound like a stuck valve. You should be able to buy a Fel Pro gasket set at a good auto store or from one of the Mopar parts houses like Bernbaum Auto. You should try to find a Motor's Manual or a service book for the '36 Dodge. You can find these online and they are worth the cost. If you google the head bolt tightening sequence for this car it might come up. Engine looks complete and those cars used a Burgess sealed air cleaner. I am restoring one of these cars and if you cam wait until next week, I can send you a photo of the air cleaner. I'm away and using another computer that does not have my pics on it. You might contact Ron Lyons in Texas at 713-805-3949 for an air cleaner as he has many parts. Leave a message and he'll call back. Hope you can find the engine issue and gwt it resolved. if you have any questions, please feel free to PM me as I'm on the forum usually once a day. I'm happy to help, if I can. Jim

Yeah, sounds a little suspicious to me too! Just the wording and grammar does it for me.

I think that Restoration Specialties has some of these. Call 814-4567-9842. Not in the catalog!

Unfortunately, probably going to be another hot rod or custom build!

There are some 'replacement' parts available but they don't look like the originals.

Car looks good there WB. Interesting note. The spare tire clamp on your car is centrally located, on my car it's much further to the left.

As far as I know, original looking replacements are not being made. You'll either have to find originals or find a caster to make new ones. Good hunting

Most, if not all, the Dodge tags are oval like the patent plate and the numbers aren't similar to Dodge body numbers. My car was similar, having one color code marked in the body but having a different color on the body! probably will never know what happened. My one car is a local car but the dealer no longer has any paperwork going back that far to compare. All evidence points to the Gunmetal as being the original color.

The body number tag is a curiosity to me as none of my '36 Dodges had a tag like that. As far as the color, the paint on the cowl looks to be Dodge Gunmetal or Plymouth Gunmetal. The 805 is the code for Mercury Metallic Poly, which has a more greenish blue tint. I see that that Plymouth offered one other gray for 1936 , Palm Beach Gray, that is more of a tan shade. It can be hard to determine actual colors as many of the old color charts are no longer accurate and there were some colors that were only used for a short period and where only available in certain regions. It appears that the repaint color may have just been a color that your father liked at the time. Personally, I don't care for the darker gray shade. I also noticed that the firewall on your car is body color. On all 3 of my Dodges, the firewall face was painted black with the cowling in body color! Good luck in your search!

Roger, you never cease to amaze! Your work is incredible!

I of my favorite kits along with their '36 Ford kit. Very nice detail and the '36 kit was the only one at the time with the correct wheel detail!

Pm member 'knobless' on this forum. He repops a good seal for that application.

Does anyone out there have any current, modern, paint formulas for 1946 CJ 2 colors Harvard Red, Universal Beige and Autumn Yellow? Yes, I know that these colors are available through some parts houses but we're looking for lower pricing and ability to buy locally. Any help will be appreciated.

Check with Jeff at Restoration Specialties and he can send you samples of sponge rubber to try that should suffice. You can also look at their catalog online. They have several different profiles of extrusions made for these applications, it will depend on the depth and width of the channel. Their phone is 814-467-9842.

If you can find the part number on the mounting post, I think there were a couple of guys looking for one of those lights!

They look like Restoration Specialties number 1360. I would call Jeff at 814-467-9842 and ask, but he may need a sample to be sure. many of these clips are no longer available now, though. good hunting! You can look at these in their online catalog.

Yeah, My '28 Model A RP. It was a dream come true that I started at 17. My wife was against it but I sold it anyway! Big mistake!

If you have a good tinsmith in your area, you may check with them to see if they can build you a new tank. Today, though, so many businesses are worried about being sued for something, so some won't do the work. I got lucky, and had a tank made that looks original and fit to a "T'.

I agree with Joe that rust must be eliminated completely to be effective. Depending on the part and the degree of corrosion, sand or soda blasting, chemical dipping or replacement may be necessary. I myself, am not keen on the rust stabilizers, but if it's gone, chances are that it won't come back to haunt you later!

Looks like the later 7In headlamps were added!

The raised, modern hot rod looking plaits are what's out of place. The seat looks good though!

Off topic, but why would someone put all that money and effort into that car, then turn around and make incorrect door panels!

If that metallic stripe is the plating showing through the decal, have your printer print the decals on clear transfer so the plating shows through. That's how the Dodge decals are done.

In my opinion, if you want to remove the rust, the best way is to sandblast the parts, then finish like any other metal parts. That will give the best results. If you wish to keep the 'patina', clean the panels well and the topcoat with clear.

Talk about stupid things. Years ago, I worked in a popular local auto supply store. The owner's son also worked there for a time. This kid marched to a different drum. So one day, a customer bought several long pieces of premade brake line from this kid. After making the sale, he found a thin box, folded up the lines and stuffed them into the box so they would be easier to carry! You should have seen the look on the customers face! Priceless!