Pete in PA

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About Pete in PA

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    Southeastern PA

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  1. No big deal, Lee. I was just curious if you received and could use the handle. I'll PM you tomorrow.
  2. We haven't gotten an update on your trunk handle situation and it's been a month since your first post. Did you receive the handle I sent? Were you able to use it? Inquiring minds want to know!
  3. I haven't been a forum member very long and have been the owner of a pre-war car an equally short period of time but I find this to be a very touching thread. How generous of Al Witek to donate his DB to the club and kudos to any/all club members who made showing the car possible. I didn't attend this year but will do some better planning and be there next year.
  4. I was at The Dodge Garage yesterday and looked at the spare radiator. It is marked 652896M. I don't have a 36 Plymouth parts manual but, based on my experience with D2 parts manuals, I probably wouldn't find that number anywhere in the manual even if it was originally installed in a 36 Plymouth. Very frustrating!
  5. Here's my post from another thread back in early September where the guy was looking for a radiator for his 1924 DB and I followed the suggestions. "I was interested in this thread because my 36 Dodge is going to need some radiator work (or maybe a new radiator). I called Harry Heitin iAuto and spoke with Scott, the longtime owner of that firm. (He bought the business from Harry Heitin many years ago.) He warned me that a honeycomb core radiator (Which I think my car has) would be very expensive because there's only one supplier of honeycomb cores and they're in the UK. How expensive, I wondered. Well Scott's best guess was $2500 for a completely restored radiator. Yikes! That's not gonna happen. Scott cautioned me that a lot of imported copper/brass radiators have problems because inlet/outlet fittings are not swaged to the tanks. IOW there's no good mechanical connection; the solder is the load bearing part and that doesn't last long. Something else for me to worry about... Because I browsed the Brassworks site and saw that I could get a new D2 radiator for about $900. Wonder where that's made? Time for more phone calls."
  6. Todd, I did get an extra radiator when I bought my D2 and I'm sure it came from the same P1 that all the other P1 parts came from. whether it's good or not I can't say and shipping it cross country to find out may not be the best idea. I can tell you that it's heavy. Also, I haven't yet determined if I can use the radiator to replace the leaking one in my D2. Out of curiosity what's the p/n on your car's radiator? It'll be embossed into the engine side of the top tank, RH side.
  7. A friend of mine back in HS used to put that stuff in his 69 Chevelle SS 396. Of course that was an 11:1 cr "built" engine that really benefited from it. AFAIK (and I'm far from an expert) the only benefit you'd get would be the lead providing valve seat cushioning. Oh, probably also the benefit of having no ethanol added but you can also get that benefit by carefully choosing your filling station (at least in PA you can). The high octane rating will be totally lost on your engine since it has such a low cr. Kind of like giving a wino a $1000 bottle of wine. Pointless... And there's also the fact that avgas doesn't have a road tax applied so getting caught doing what you're thinking about would probably get you a big fine. Same as the risk the lifted diesel 4x4 truck guys take when they put dyed home heating oil in their trucks. Cheaper fuel until you get busted. Then expensive fuel. Just my .02
  8. I'm no 36 Plymouth expert but I checked one of my books. P1 had a painted windshield frame vs. the P2's plated one. Also, certain body styles were available only as P2s: rumble seat coupe, convertible coupe, 7 passenger sedan, wood-bodied station wagon.
  9. Saw this beautiful P2 coupe at Hershey a couple of years ago. It seemed to me that strips of brightwork were riveted to the stanchions. I have a couple of P1 stanchions and they look like yours. Are you positive you have a P2?
  10. Well this sounds like the right path to me. Carefully disassembly taking not of orientation of all parts. Look for match marks like dots on rotor and out ring -- they can make a difference. Then a new gasket/sealing ring. While a brand new pump with tight tolerances may be warranted for a tired engine with poor maintenance and/or very high miles it isn't necessary for "freshening" of a decent engine. IMO -- which come partly from the seemingly crazy price of $180 for said new pump.
  11. Welcome! Looks like you have an *awesome* starting point there. A lot of knowledgeable members here (not me) to help you.
  12. That is a stunning car. With sidemounts and a trunk rack no less... Is it dark green? My dad was born in 35. Makes me think of him.
  13. Where are yo now that it's so hot? Not in Potter County for sure! I vacationed with my family in Sullivan County last month. It's a whole different world up there. As for my car, thank you for the compliment but I intentionally cropped the picture to cut off the ugly part. LOL I think that at some point the car hit something at the front RH corner and some very "economical" repairs were made by a PO. I think the same yoyo decided to remove all the trim from the car and paint some parts with primer (like the whole front end). My son (he's 13 and you can see him through the cars rear window) and I just got the engine running in August after almost 40 years of storage.
  14. FWIW the 1935 parts catalog lists two different gear shift lever hole covers. One is for rumble seat coupes, business coupes, and convertible coupes - p/n 497284. Another cover - p/n 498429 - is for all the sedans, whether 2 door or 4 door. What body style do you have? Can you make out any p/n on the old part? BTW I followed the Steele link and did some mental shopping for my D2. Wow. I could spend a grand there in a few minutes.
  15. The door marked 36DB does seem to match the door on my 1936 non-touring 4 door sedan. According to the parts catalog the same doors were used on the 4 door touring sedan and that's probably where your door came from since there were 300x as many touring sedans made compared to non-touring sedans.