Pete in PA

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About Pete in PA

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    Southeastern PA

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  1. I'm interested in buying a repro seal for my 36 four door non-touring sedan. It may be quite a while before I get around to using it but I'd like to have it on hand.
  2. Nice story! You'd think they could find the correct wheel for that car though.
  3. I didn't see this thread when it was originally posted. The bellhousing with orange paint is definitely late 60s/early 70s vintage. There should be a p/n cast into the back where the transmission mounts.
  4. Looking at your post history I see you've had your D2 for quite a while. What body style is it? Early or late production? Any pics? You're all the way across the country from me but I'm always interested in hearing about other D2s. I know some classic car people up in the San Franciso area but I doubt that will help you.
  5. The Dodge car was definitely a step up the ladder from Ford and Chevy, both of which competed with the Plymouth. The heirarchy at Chrysler Corp. was Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto, Chrysler, and then Imperial. On the GM side it was Chevy, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, LaSalle, and then Cadillac. But these are all cars that ordinary people bought. There was a whole other market for the rich and very rich. Packard, Pierce Arrow, and <gasp> Duesenberg. A Duesenberg *chassis* with grille and hood cost around $8000.00 and then you had it shipped to a coachbuilder for a body/interior. A finished car might cost upward of $20000.00 (when a new Ford cost $500!). But buyers of that type of car were few and far between. Just as buyers of the Bugatti Veyron are few and far between today.
  6. 1) Why do so many of these barn finds take place in PA? 2) Neat Charger but I think the 70 RR looks better in all orange while the Charger looks better with a black vinyl top 3) The original engine was found in the house basement under a plumbing leak directly above the intake manifold ports. Well that's bad luck, isn't it? 4) I wonder what the flipper paid the estate for this car. He did put some money into it but it reached almost $47k and his reserve was not met. Hmmmm. 5) I guess I'll have to be satisfied with my 36 four door sedan "barn find" find!
  7. I applaud your decision to stick with the original drivetrain. I will certainly be doing that with my 1936 D2, assuming I ever get it driveable. LOL I look at an old car as a package and all of its parts should work together. When you start changing parts of the package, especially using technology MUCH newer than the original stuff, you've changed the essence of the whole thing. Add a more modern drivetrain to your car and it will go faster but how will the brakes and handling react to that increased speed? As for changing just the transmission, that likely wouldn't be such a simple solution. A lot of engineering thought goes into choosing the transmission gear ratios and making sure they work with the vehicle weight, tire size, engine power band, final drive ratio, etc. An overdrive transmission may do no good if the engine doesn't generate the power necessary to take advantage of that overdrive. When I drive an antique or classic car I want to experience what the car was like when it was new (or as close to that as I can get). That's the joy of driving an old car, at least to me. I can understand your frustration at your 33's top speed if you drive it on modern freeways a lot. You are likely putting yourself and your car in danger by running it at maximum speed and still not blending into traffic. To modernize the drivetrain to go faster probably isn't the answer, at least IMO. I wouldn't want to make a panic stop at 70 or 75 mph in a 1933 anything if I was driving in freeway traffic. My D2 will be driven regularly but mostly around town here in SE PA and that means a lot of 25 mph - 45 mph driving. There may occasional jaunts at highway speeds but almost certainly not "rush hour" traffic. I've seen pictures of what happens to a 1930s car when it collides with a modern car at high speed and it's not pretty.
  8. Will do. Meanwhile here's the length:
  9. You just never know what you're going to find when you tear into a 85 YO car, do you? And I agree that you have a very nice workspace! Looks like you're all set to settle in for a winter's work. Great progress so far.
  10. The worst area of the fender is at the back end where the taillight mounts. Obviously this car got rear-ended or backed into something The taillight stanchion was broken and the fender was deformed.
  11. And the fender... The front, lower, outboard corner of the fender is slightly bent and there's been some crude dollying of the forward curve. Really can't complain for an 83 YO car and at least all the damaged areas are easy, easy to access. Hmmm, my program is showing that the pic I want ot upload is 2.13mB but this site keeps saying 9.77mB max. I'll try later.
  12. Fender removal was accomplished this afternoon. A Dremel tool with a 1/8" carbide ball cutter made short work of 4 severely rusted nuts cutting a deep groove in each of them. Then I grabbed each with a Vise Grips and used a 1/2" wrench to loosen them. The fender has definitely had some work done to it in the last 83 years and I will have a local body shop look at it tomorrow and see what they can do. Meanwhile I will use my improved access to add some penetrating oil and heat to the inlet tube threaded area. Should be interesting.