29 Chandler

Peter I have the same set up. There is a condenser originally mounted on the bottom of the magneto. I also added a modern condenser close to the points which in my case were added in the 1960's up under the dash.

Also checkout Golden Wheels: "The Story of the Automobiles Made in Cleveland and Northeastern Ohio 1892-1932", covers all of the makes listed above and more.

Here's one that I really enjoyed. It was written in 1916 and tells the history of the automobile up to that point. Really fascinating if you are interested in the horseless carriage period like I am. Great old pictures too.

Hi Peter, Have you checked to make sure your points are opening? Here's a picture of the setup on my 1914 Light Weight Six, note there is a "modern" 6v coil that is providing spark in my case. I'll help any way I can. Maybe you can post some pictures.

Here you go Eric. The filler hole is on top in the front, second picture. You fill it with the plug in the cover removed and stop filling when the gear oil flows out the lower hole. Please let me know if you need any other photos!

Eric can you post a picture? If it is the same as my 1914 Chandler I can help advise you.

Our 1914 Chandler also has a hand pump for first start up. Then there is a small pump driven off the intake valve on the #6 cylinder that keeps the system pressurized at about 1.5 lbs., its adjustable too. So far it seems to work really well.

Ron he posted above that offers above 15k will be taken seriously.

Another vote for bourbon and having Ed back!

Kevin and Ben I applaud what you are doing to preserve Cole history and share it with the rest of us. This is what make this forum and club great. We have all learned so much about White cars thanks to Ed's threads. Its really great to see all of your stories and pictures about the Cole motor cars. Keep the information and pictures coming!

Drove 1,500 miles in 1999 to pickup our 1929 Chandler sedan that we bought on eBay. At that point I was not aware that many of these cars had survived and this was the first one I had seen for sale. We only had a 1999 Ford Explorer as a tow vehicle at the time and rented a heavy U-Haul trailer. The poor Explorer was loaded to the MAX and was riding on the Bridgestone tires that would be recalled a few month later. Glad we did not know about the tire issue at the time. Made this trip with my wife, infant son, and in-laws. A trip we will remember fro a long time, quite a fun adventure. Drove 1,800 miles to deliver a 1909 Model T and pickup our 1914 Chandler a few years ago. This time I had an enclosed trailer and a bigger pickup to make the trip. Another trip of a lifetime. Picked up an incredible car and had a great road trip with a friend.

I found this Moto Meter underneath the seat in my 1914 Chandler after I brought it home. Wondering if you can date these? The housing looks to be chrome which would make it newer than my car.

Here's a picture of the Julian I took about a month ago while it was still on display.

Agreed. This is the exact reason why I used a cheap 30 wt oil wen I first started sorting my car. I knew the oil would not be in there long enough make much of a difference either way.

My engine was built over a 100 years ago and and the specification was for a straight 30w non-detergent. I am not using that now as I want the contaminants suspended in the oil and not in the bottom of the pan. I think it's important to use an oil that is of the same viscosity as the manufacture called for and I agree with the folks that say to use a multi weight over a straight weight even on the older cars. As far as dino vs. synthetic (really just highly refined dino oil) we are just looking at part of what we put in the engine. We should also consider the additive package that is in the oil; wear inhibitors, anti-corrosion additives, friction modifiers, anti-foaming additives, etc. Depending on the engine and your uses some of these are more important than the others for your particular application. Now that I have dealt with major leaks and mechanical issues I plan to switch to an oil that will stay in my engine for the entire year (just a few hundred miles). Remember I am running a 1914 engine with no oil filter here. I want a motor oil that will protect my engine to the highest standard so it can last another 100 years.

Thank you John Bruce and I have connected to discuss his new purchase.

Boo I just discovered this thread and applaud your documentation and thank you for sharing your experince with us. Our 1914 Chandler with it original radiator still in use has been a challenge for me to keep cool. The car spent its entire life in northern Iowa where it stays much cooler that its new home in southern California. Here we don't need anti-freeze so straight distilled water with an anti-corrosion additive is my normal set up. After sorting out the water pump and flushing the entire cooling system with Evan-Rust I've currently settled on a combination of distilled water and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter. The Wetter is supposed to control the foaming which in effect increases surface contact of the water and provide anti-corrosion. So far the results have been pretty good.

Our 1914 Chandler came with this letter that was addressed to the original owner of our car. It provided information about the car and new company and gave the future owner information where locally he could purchase one of their cars. I am amazed and thrilled it has survived and said with the car for the past 100 plus years. I've been able to find a little bit of information about the dealership, they started selling Chandler motor cars in 1913 the first year of production. Would love to find a picture of the dealership if it exists. From what I can tell the building no longer stands.

I too have this same ad on display in my garage along with our 1929 Chandler that does indeed have these power assist brakes installed. They are mechanical and are supposed to triple the stopping powered.

Been using one on my MGB for several years now. They work great!

Timing is Everything! Dialed in the timing just a bit more and the difference is remarkable. For those of you doing this on your car for the first time, my advise is to get it right. The results will be worth it and your engine will reward you. I went through several attempts to make it just right now we are both happy.

prewar40 what a wonderful website you have for Gardner motor cars. As a St. Louis native and old car enthusiast I will have to spend more time on your site. What I love is all the pictures and resource information you have available to owners of these cars. And a great balance of public/private information. Well done!

prewar40 Thanks for the feedback. I'll certainly review your website and see how you have done things. With these Orphan cars that have been orphans for a 100 years or so the population is now so dispersed across the globe. The Internet is about the only way you can keep the group together. There used to be a Chandler Club for instance, but with meetings about once a year and members spread out so far it was really hard to keep it going. I've got a few other irons in the fire including a full time day job, and the local HCCA newsletter and website to maintain. No to mention a few cars in the garage that are patiently waiting for some attention so that they may see some road miles some day. If no one else takes it on I'll have to get to it. If nothing else just for my own curiosity. How many are left? Where's the oldest? And the 100's of other questions we can try to answer by creating a Registry.

I've been meaning to create one for Chandler Motor cars for a while now. I have an old spreadsheet on my computer to start with, but what I really want is something is to create a simple database to organize the data. The issue of privacy and security would be a big deal for me to. I understand how important it is for other owners and would want to ensure that private information is not shared unless the owner agrees to share it. Some other thoughts of what I would liken my ultimate Registry: An entry form where each field is properly formatted. For example if you enter the VIN/Serial number, then the other fields would be formatted with only those values correct for that entry. Unfortunately even from the owners that have provided their data in the past I have seen far too much misinformation that muddles the data The ability to add pictures and and information by year I think the only solution here is a dedicated website and the ability to hide and show private data to make some of the information public

My car is retarded! At least that what the Dykes manual says... Apparently when setting the timing on this magneto you have to set the timing 1st at TDC and then rotate the armature until the points just open. That is what the black mark is in the photo above. With this now set the engine ran very well. In fact for the first time I was able to see the car accelerate simply by advancing the spark lever. Its much better now. probably have a bit of fine tuning to dial it in just right but now I have a much clearer understanding how to set the timing. Thanks for following along as I learn more about how my brass era car works.