29 Chandler

Made some good progress on the car yesterday. Installed the timing chain cover, fan, and carefully installed the radiator. If I did not have to replace the valve springs she would be about ready to fire up.

Agreed. I just finished cleaning the valves and doing a fresh lapping job on all of them with particular attention to those that were shiny. Once I get new valve springs I should be ready to go. the Folks at Then And Now Automotive are looking to see if they have a match in stock, otherwise we will probably have some made.

1914 Chandler About 16 mpg as was stated back when the car was new. Even back then this was a big selling point. On today's rubber I can only hope to see 7,000 miles on my tires.

Guys I am really thankful for your input and sharing your experience. The engine in question has new (modern one piece) valves replaced by me in 2019. At that time I found one that was cracked and discovered they were the original two piece valves and replaced them all. At the time I chose not to replace the springs as they all looked good. The engine, as best I can tell based on the odometer and the history that has come with the car, has about 17k miles on it. The pistons are original and I suspect the rings are too, though they (rings) may have been replaced in the 60's when the car was last restored. Before tearing into this engine, this was a very smooth running engine. I hope that when I am done she'll be ready for some more tours. I think maybe since I have the valves all free I'll do some light lapping on them as I hope not to disturb them again for a while. I also will do a complete compression check before I am done.

Except in this case the engine is an L- head so there is no traditional head gasket.

Thanks Grimy!

I should note the measurements are of 110 year old springs.

I am trying to locate new valve springs for my 1914 Chandler. Any recommendations for a supplier? Free height of the springs is 4.75" OD= 1.313" Pressure at 3" is about 40 lbs

I am familiar with how to read a spark plug based on the color and condition of the electrode. I am in the process of replacing the valve springs on our 1914 Chandler Light Weight Six and have all of the valves out now. I was surprised to fine three of the (exhaust) valves so clean and shiny. The exhaust valves are the odd numbered valves in the picture below. Can you help me explain why these three stand out so much from the rest? Note the #5 exhaust valve is next to the intake valve spring that broke on me (reason for replacing the valve springs at this time).

I agree, it’s part of the car’s history that I like to preserve and keep in place.

I would say the chains were worn out but were not the cause of the change in performance that we noticed about a year ago when we were touring. Can’t wait to see how she runs with new chains and new springs.

I always liked this ad and wound up using it in our club roster a couple of years. I covered the space below the image with a list of our club officers.

Anyone replace their valve springs yet? I found a broken spring on intake #3 yesterday so I am starting to research what I can replace them with.

Well I think the mystery that started this thread over a year ago has finally be found. Today while rotating the engine and checking the timing marks on the sprockets, magneto, and the position of the valves on #1 I came upon something that I should have noticed when I first took off the valve cover. The valve spring on the #3 intake is broken! I should replaced the springs four years ago when I installed new valves. I cannot understand now while I did not do that at the time. Hopefully finding new springs will not be an issue.

What a great story! I am glad you finally fed your thirst for a complete running Lozier and the Limited engine found its proper home.

Here's an Oldsmobile factory photo I have of what I think is a 1911 Oldsmobile Limited. I am able to blow up the image and clearly see the tire size of 42 x 4 1/2"

You got it. I’ll provide whatever support I can.

I love seeing these pictures and comparing them to my 1914 with the same drivetrain.

Sounds like you still have the original Radiator Cushioning Strip on your car. I went ahead and ordered this 1” x 1/4” rubber for mine https://a.co/d/aHDlLbb cut it to 14” and knocked some holes out for the studs and it’s ready to go.

Here’s a picture of the Limited at the Reno National Automotive Museum and the 1910 painting that was commissioned by Olds I know there is another 1911 Limited in a private collection in Southern CA that some of us got to see today but it was not out for display.

Thanks for that info Mike. I was thinking of buying a strip of 1/4" thick solid rubber to lay down under the radiator above the front cross member. This way there would be support all across the bottom of the radiator. And then go with the flat washers and castle nut with cotter pins below the cross member.

I found in my Chandler parts list a part called "Radiator Cushion Strap", could be ordered from the factory for just 50 cents. Sadly there is not drawing of the part or assembly to refer to. I expect there was just one piece of this strap across the entire bottom of the radiator where it comes into contact with the frame.

Hi Bill, That is exactly what was used by the previous owner of our car. Maybe I'll just re-use them.

For those of you with a car from the teens or 20's I am curious how your radiator is mounted to the frame. My 1914 Chandler has two 9/16" studs on the bottom of the radiator shell that project down to the frame. When I removed the radiator there were two rather crude pieces of rubber to act as a washer between the frame and the radiator. I plan to replace these rubber pieces with something better. What do you suggest? The radiator itself is rather heavy.

It was, but on the upside it only needs to be done every 110 years! 😃 And if I don't do it right now our son will need to re-do it later. My 2008 F150 is on it's third radiator.