29 Chandler

One thing leads to another! Thanks for sharing your results Peter.

Per the Chandler parts manual this is a check valve.

My personal experience with synthetic oil in our 1914 Chandler Six has not shown it to leak any more or less than conventional oil. I am using the same weight oil as before so I did not expect any difference. The only reason I chose to use synthetic was to get a better additive package since my engine does sit a lot. For your Chrysler I would focus more on how clean your engine is now? Has the pan been cleaned out? How often were oil changes done in the past? When these cars were new they all used a non-detergent oil. Adding a modern detergent oil could break up a lot of sludge that might be sitting in the bottom of your oil sump. If your car does not have a good oil filter than all of these contaminates will be picked up and sent down the tiny oil galleys. Do some research as there is a lot of discussion on this topic in the past. Pretty much all oil you can buy today (at the correct weight) will be fine for your engine.

You have a 1929 Chandler Model 75 Royal Eight Sedan. I'll email you this weekend to get in touch with you . I can provide you a lot of information about these cars.

Welcome Tony, For 1929 there were two Chandler models with a straight 8, the smaller model 75 and the larger model 85. I suspect they both used the same size lifters but cannot confirm. You might try Egge to see if they have any in stock. Hopefully you have one to take measurements from. If you provide the serial number of the car I can confirm which model you have.

Hoping not to jinx anything but on the hot summer day took the car out for a drive around town with the timing properly set and the points correctly gapped. No issues at all! She is running really good again.

Hi Peter, Yes I am running straight "RO" water with No-Rosion added to it, here in our part of the country no reason for any antifreeze. Congratulations on getting the body back on!

So if I take my dwell setting and divide by 1.5 I get a dwell reading of 33. That sounds much better and consistent with other readings I have seen for a 6 cylinder.

Hi Boo, It seems sometime in the 60's the lead from the magneto was disconnected and a 6V coil was installed on my car. So at this point the magneto is running just as a distributor. Power for the spark comes from the battery to the coil and then off to the mag to direct the spark to the correct spark plug. This has worked well for years. I have now checked the dwell several times and am confident I am looking at the correct "6 cylinder" scale on the meter. I have the same Bosch manual that specifies 0.4mm gap and started with this setting. Still I get the high dwell reading.

Steve are you looking for a copy of the 1927 Chandler owner's manual? I have a copy of the 1928 manual that I can scan and share with you.

I know there is not manufacture setting for dwell on my 1914 Chandler Light Weight Six. The thread about low idle reminded me to get my old dwell/tach meter out and hook it up to my car. Currently I have it dialed in at 400 rpm. My car has a Bosch DU6 magneto and the manual for that specifies a point gap of .40 mm. At this gap I have a dwell of 52. Increasing the gap to .635 mm gives me a dwell of 50. I am also running a 6V coil (came with the car) so I have been told I can run a larger gap for the points. Is there an ideal dwell setting I should be striving for?

Grandchildren of the second owner of our 1914 Chandler when it was changing hands for the first time since buying it from the dealer.

Adjusted the timing back a little more and ran the engine again at a high idle for twenty minutes. Runs smoother Temperature at the top of the radiator never exceeded 190 F Did not blow out the over flow tube even after repeated attempts to suddenly drop the rpm's back to idle to force the "over capacity" issue of the radiator to keep up with the water pump. I guess it's time to get some miles under her and test again.

Hi Ken, Very interesting story about your Premier. Lots of similarities between our two situations. You've got me a bit on CID, the Chandler Light Weight Six is only 268 cu. in so I think in my case the BB1 is more properly sized. I do have an adjustable needle to install on the BB1 that I planned to do next. I am very encouraged that you were able to drop the temperature by adjusting fuel mixiture. I advanced the timing yesterday and still have no pinging. It does seem to be running a bit rougher though so I think I will move it back a bit. I ran the car at a high idle speed for 15 minutes constantly watching the temperature at the top of the radiator rise to the high 190s F and there were no issues. I then reached in to the car to lower the handle throttle lever to return the car back to idle and immediately noticed coolant rushing out the overflow tube onto the garage floor! My initial thought was the car overheated, but after think ing on it I have come up with the theory that it was not an overheat situation but an over capacity issue. I believe that when I dropped the RPMs the flow of water leaving the bottom of the radiator was no longer sufficient to keep up with the flow going into the top. The excess water then took the path of least resistance and exited out the overflow tube. Being a non-pressurized system there is nothing to prevent coolant from exiting the radiator. If the car was overheating the coolant would have turned to steam and been forced out the overflow tube and continued to do so when I shut off the motor, it did not. So now I believe rather than a overheat issue I have an overflow issue. I will add a restrictor to the upper radiator hose to see if that solves my issue. As far as temperatures during my test yesterday it was easily in the mid-90's in the garage and later reached 100 F outside. Unfortunately this is my reality and the conditions my car must survive. I've considered adding an overflow bottle somewhere, but I would want it to be as inconspicuous as possible. BTW your Premier is truly outstanding, thanks for sharing the pictures.

This sure is an interesting car! Serial number and identification tag mark it as a Model 16- from 1915 Per Jim's book this body style was introduced at the 1915-1916 (late Dec. to early Jan) New York Auto Show WB measures 120" which is what was offered on Model 14 to Model 15B, Model 16 came out with 122" WB So is this something the factory built special by taking an earlier frame, dropping a new drivetrain in, and adding a brand new body? If so could this be the Auto Show Car??

Here's mine from Peacock Motor Company on San Fransisco - Distributors of Chandler-Cleveland cars

Thank you Bloo, just the kind of detail and direction I was hoping for. Appreciate you taking the time and energy to weight in on this topic. 👍

Yes filling the radiator up just over the core which leaves about 1.5” to the top of the tank. At the moment there is just a Gano filter in the upper hose. thanks for the comments

I have done a lot to this engine in the past year and now that it is all back together I expected it to not over heat any more. Apparently I have missed something. At idle the engine runs smooth and cool, about 155 F measured at the top of the radiator once warmed up. At the bottom of the radiator the temp drops 10-15 F. At fast idle in the garage or driving up a slight hill after about 5-10 minutes it blows water out the radiator overflow tube. I have a new radiator that is working correctly. I can clearly see water flow at the top of the radiator from the water pump so I know it's not a flow issue. Fan is running and creating a good draw through the radiator core. Timing on the magneto (Bosch DU6) was set to specifications; fully retarted where the points just open on cylinder #1. After initial drive I decided it needed some advance like it had before I did all the recent work. After advancing the Mag It now starts better and has more power. After sitting idle for a week it starts right up like a modern car. I don't see the problem as a cooling system problem now after replacing the radiator and ensuring there is good flow. Could it be timing? Should I continue to dial in more advance to see if this cures the problem? The carburetor is a Carter BB-1 that came with the car and has likely been on there for 30 years. Idle mixture screw is out 1.5 turns as per literature. I have checked before for an exhaust gas leak in the coolant and found no signs of that. Since there is no head gasket the only way water would be getting into the cylinders would be through the water jacket and I see no signs of that. Oil is clean and clear as well. I must be missing something....

This one confused me a bit as the 4 passenger roadster was introduced in mid year. So reading the factory brochures and ads of the period did not list the model on the available body types. The pictures above are sourced from period periodicals that covered the mid year changes. During this period of automobile development the manufactures just could not stand still. They were constantly innovating and introducing new options to the public.

Bringing our 1929 Chandler home in 2000 with our overloaded 1999 Ford Explorer. Made it safely home from Nebraska where this photo was taken to Southern California. A month later we got the notice that our Firestone tires were being recalled. You might remember they had a tendency to "explode". Glad we made it home safely.

We’ve confirmed that the drivetrain and frame are from 1915 which puts the starter under the engine pan. Which indeed is where it is now.

I just spoke to Arty we are going to figure this one out. My best guess right now is a 1915 Model 16 frame with a 1917-1918 Model 18 body on it. more to come. Arty welcome to the Chandler community!

How's this Terry from the 1917-1918 Chandler literature.

That sure looks like a 1917-1918 Model 18 Four Passenger Roadster. The term "Chummy" was not introduced into the Chandler line up until 1924. This car clearly has the lines of a Model 18. Do you have the car's serial number? We can confirm more from that. Please share more pictures this is a car we have not seen and might be the only one of its model left.