Jim

I just sent Keith some other parts and shared my similar experience with him. Maybe it is something in Florida. Back in '06 I flew to Orlando and bought a black Reatta convertible. The same day I drove to Naples and stayed over night with some friends. The next day we drove over to Miami and went to some junk yards and then on the way back across "alligator alley" I felt a vibration but we kept going as my friend had to be back at a certain time. About the middle of alligator alley the same right front tire blew the tread off and my fender looked like yours. Fortunately it was only the fender and it damaged the hood a little. I owned the car for less than 24 hours and now had a fenderless Reatta. At the time there was a fellow in Florida selling parts so we drove the next day to the Daytona area and put on a used black fender which made my car look much better for the trip back to Duluth. I then repainted the fender and hood and it came out very nice.

I have a good used replacement hose for your '90 Reatta. I can be reached at reattas60@gmail.com

I added I also have reconditioned ABS sensors.

I have been parting out Reattas for over 25 years and have most parts available at very reasonable prices. Some hard to find part I have include '90-91 headlight switches ( outright or exchange ) convertible visor clips and convertible tonneau clips. I also have reconditioned ABS sensors both front and rear.

Barney's fix is excellent and will last for years as opposed to the original plastic band that can age and get brittle and break.

The '87 LeSabre T types used the same wheel as the Reattas but with a different center cap. The wheels Ronnie has pictured are from a Cadillac STS and we have the same wheels on our Driftwood convertible. They were about 1999. All GM wheels used the same bolt pattern for many years except for the really small cars. Grand Prix wheels will fit on a Cadillac or Reatta and vise versa.

It took a lot of effort by a lot of people to get the prototype a good home and hope it stays there for a long time.

Anything looks better than the originals. Here is a picture of what i think of the originals. This was several years ago and since them I brought a second load to the scrap yard and currently have about 40 more waiting for the price of aluminum to go up.

I have available 90 headlight switches. They have been disassembled, all contacts cleaned or replaced, small bulbs replaced and reassembled with nice looking buttons and the correct button on the slider. I then test them in my personal Reatta. I can be reach at reattas60@gmail.com

I have good ones on the shelf and ready to go. They are the correct module with the equalizer feature. Jim

I have a good supply of good working correct radio modules

I looked at this post a few days ago and thought" i've got one of them" so I went and looked and could not find it, thinking I must have sold it on Ebay. Just now I was getting parts together to take to the BCA meet in OKC and looking in a box I found the pressure switch. It is the correct pressure switch for a TC. Send me an email at reattas60@gmail.com I am leaving Monday morning but could maybe send it out on Monday or when I return.

I have a pair of gray seats that will work in a '90 or 91 in good condition and can bring them to the BCA ;meet in OKC. I would like $ 150 for the pair. You are basically getting the seat bottoms and seat backs with no track assemblies, no plastic pieces or 16W pod. The leather/vinyl is in good condition so the covers could be removed from these frames and put on your frames or simply use these bottoms and backs with your plastic pieces and pod. I have separated the backs from the bottoms so the four pieces would fit in a Reatta for transportation home. Jim

I will be selling parts at the BCA meet really cheap so if anyone needs anything let me know. Now would be a good time to maybe get some spare items as there will be no shipping costs. I will be leaving here on Monday.

I do have a tested good working sending unit for your '89 Please send me an email at reattas60@gmail.com and include your zip code. Jim

I have the parts you are looking for. Please send me an email at reattas60@gmail.com

Ed Farnell and I will be there. I am also signed up for a swap space and will be selling parts really cheap so if someone wants anything or wants some spare parts, let me know and i can deliver them there for free.

The master cylinder portion of the units rarely go bad but the most common parts to go bad in order are the accumulator, pressure switch and the pump/motor. This is an '88 unit and the pump/motors are quite hard to find so definitely save the pump/motor, accumulator and the pressure switch. ( the difference between the '88 units and the '89-90 units is for '88 they used a hose going to the master cylinder and the later ones used a steel line. The pumps and master cylinder are taped different. ) As long as you are saving those pieces just save everything. Very often if the brake fluid has not been changed about every five years the valve body on the side of the unit can also be bad so that is also nice to have as a spare. Ronnie has on his sight instructions on how to test accumulators. If battery and ground are applied to the two terminals on the motor and it runs it is probably good. Remove the connector on the pressure switch and look inside. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid next to any of the five pins, the switch is no good. With no seepage the switch can still be bad but most likely good. I always have all of these parts available but if you have a Reatta you can save some money in the future.

I used to buy a lot of cars at Copart. Some locations they sell to the public and some locations are dealer only.

For many years I have been rebuilding Reatta headlight switches and currently have 7 of the '90 switches available. I also have many of the '91 switches. All these switches have been disassembled, cleaned and any worn parts replaced. I then test them in my personal car. I sell them for $ 85 exchange and they come with a very nice looking "lights" button and the correct knob on the slider. I can be reached at reattas60@gmail.com

Glad to help out.

I suggest you carry a flashlight. I have the parts you are looking for but it would not be an easy fix. The fiber optic line attaches to the back of the key cylinder and am not sure how you would disconnect it. You could replace the lock cylinder but then would have to have a different key or have my cylinder rekeyed. Here are pictures of the fiber optic line. Jim

The inner part of the housing is a plastic/fiberglass and I do have a good one available. I can be reached at reattas60@gmail.com Jim

I have several '90 console tops and can check on the quality. Please send me an email at reattas60@gmail.com

I have for years been repairing all years of the headlight switches. I have several of the '90 switches ready to go and my switches all come with very nice looking "lights" buttons and the correct knob on the slider. $ 85 exchange. I also have the '91 switches ready to do and the same applies the buttons and knob.