Bob H

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About Bob H

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  • Birthday 07/29/1934

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  • Biography
    79 years old and quite active, lifelong automotive and mechanical things interests, serious do-it-yourselfer, recently built a new home. Couldn't find an old collector Buick at the price I wanted so I bought three 1939s; a sedan, a coupe, and a convertible coupe, all specials.

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  1. Bob H

    Glass

    Oops! Shows you what I know about 1951 windshields, I assumed flat. Might not hurt to check with that local supplier anyhow, their specialty is glass for old cars. Bob H
  2. Greetings: Thought I would add my name to the great list of people offering support with 1939 Buick cars. Acquired my 1939 Special convertible coupe in 2013 and am currently in the final assembly stage of a meticulous frame-off nut and bolt restoration. Glad to help with any question that you may have. Also, I have acquired a ton of extra 1939 parts including a Special 4 door sedan parts car. Have most new sedan glass and new Steele weatherstripping for sedan. Rebuilt my transmission plus one for a friend and have a modest stock of transmission parts along with current experience. Too other many parts to list here, just ask if you need anything. FYI we are in Northwestern Oregon state about 3 hours down the interstate from Seattle. Stop by if you are in the neighborhood! Bob H
  3. Bob H

    Glass

    Peninsula Glass in Vancouver, WA, actually another name but in the same building, made the glass for my 1939 convertible. Fantastic job right down to the 1939 manufacturer's logo and black edge on the vent window glass. Bob H
  4. Billy: If you can't save your tail light sockets I should have a couple of extra used ones in decent shape. Soak the whole assembly in Evaporust, the stuff performs miracles. FYI, and it's probably too late , but I have a new RI Wire rear harness for your car - $250 + shipping. Keep plugging, at my last estimate there are only about a million details to deal with while restoring one of these regal old queens. Bob H
  5. I think that the jaws of the puller are the problem rather than the device. Have to look but I ground a carriage bolt head to a shape that would go into the odd shaped holes in the steering wheel hub. I can dig them out, take a picture, and send it to you but you will probably have solved the dilemma by then. An old wrecking yard trick we used to use when no puller was available: remove the nut, crank the wheel hard over and hold it firmly against the stop, and try to hammer the wheel off with your fist. Doesn't always work but often enough that it is worth trying. I see that we are almost neighbors. I am in Rainier, Oregon but have family in Sacramento we visit fairly often. I mention this because I am deep into the restoration of a 1939 Special convertible and have accumulated a lot of parts that would be available to you without paying freight. Bob H
  6. FYI, the car sold for $5500 plus fees. The reserve was met at $5000 so it indeed did sell. The only hint to the buyer's identity was that Missouri is home. That could be a broker's base of operations. Hope it doesn't become a flood car! Bob H
  7. Found a nice 1990 parts convertible at a COPART auction in Sikeston, Missouri but it is just too far for me to go from Rainier, Oregon. Select 60 with only 12K miles. Blown airbag but it is probably repairable. Opportunity for someone closer. Bob H
  8. Running board supports could easily be modified to become stream board brackets. The mounting base and profiles are the same for both. Stream board supports are narrower across the flanges but that might not matter. At worst a little grinding would would be in order. The stream board brackets are shorter overall but again an easy fix. Slots for the carriage bolt hold downs are different but they could be cut in the proper place. Attached some photos FYI. The black powder-coated stream board brackets are for my project convertible. The running board brackets are available with a revision in the condition report. They all four have some damage. Tried to show the worst one in the photo with two only. The are all really solid and could easily be restored. Bob H
  9. 2carb40: Everyone trying to help has confused me but that's not hard to do. Do you need running board or stream board brackets? The set I offered fits running boards. Stream board brackets may simply be stream board brackets shortened and I can verify that since I have both. No stream board brackets for sale but I do have a complete set of restoreable stream boards including the brackets, spendy. Bob H
  10. I have a set but two of them are damaged. They are solid and good candidates for restoration. $60 plus shipping. I can take a photo or two if you want. Bob H
  11. When I needed a side bearing adjustment tool I made one out of material laying around. Not high tech but I used it and loaned to another Buick enthusiast. I'll most likely never use it again and I would gladly loan it out you pay the postage. Bob H
  12. Is brazing a lost art? Cast iron brazes without much problem but must be clean to bare metal. Fit isn't critical as brass will fill large gaps. I was never able to make a brass bead pretty like a weld but it is easily ground to a decent looking job. There are high temperature epoxies but I don't think JB Weld is one of them. Bob H
  13. Don't need to go inside transmission! Looking at the bottom photo in Billy's post, that prominent hex near the center is actually part of the inner cable and threads into the shift selector shaft. Just screw it out to remove the cable but first loosen the retaining clip for the outer cable housing, just below the hex in the picture mentioned previously. With the cable frozen the entire assembly will have to turn when unscrewing the cable retainer hex. Be sure the other end of the cable is detached from the shift lever end, both inner and outer. And good luck, the inner cable will probably break. Bob H
  14. Who sells the tarpaper-like body panel insulation with the "waffle" pattern used on 1939 Special? Thanks, Bob H
  15. Sent a couple of 1939 light switch photos that might help you understand how it is put together. The terminal at the end of the wire has the contact built into it - the little round button off the side of the terminal near its end. The housing that the terminal snaps into has spring built into it that maintains pressure on the contact strip that moves when you pull the switch handle. The construction of the switch resembles a cheap post WW II tin toy and it may be coming apart. Bob H