Bob H

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About Bob H


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    79 years old and quite active, lifelong automotive and mechanical things interests, serious do-it-yourselfer, recently built a new home. Couldn't find an old collector Buick at the price I wanted so I bought three 1939s; a sedan, a coupe, and a convertible coupe, all specials.

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  1. I'll take one for my spares box. Shipment to 97048, no rush. How do you want to get paid? Bob H
  2. Great news! The tortoise wins again. Bob H
  3. Recently installed a pair of windshields in my 1939 convertible, yours would be similar but there are differences. Used 3M bedding compound, a 3/16" bead around the perimeter of the wind shield opening. This material never sets up like a true adhesive. Nothing between the rubber and the glass, it should seal, or OK to seal it later if it leaks. The glass, both at the same time, goes into the opening from the inside. Install the glass in the rubber on the bench, see picture. The convertible rubber comes in three pieces and may not be the same as yours. We installed the forward most center divider strip in the car and I made a temporary divider strip out of cedar. installed the glass and temp divider in the rubber - pix. Raised the outboard ends of the assembly to approximate the vee angle in the windshield and taped the temp divider in securely, tape only on the interior side, visible in the pic of personnel. A suction cup on each windshield, and one person muscles the assembly into the opening from the inside. Piece of cake if you are young and strong which I am neither, hence the helpers. Added the second center divider strip over a generous application of bedding compound. Installed the interior trim, which holds the glass in place, then we all stood back and bragged about how easy that was. If your windshield rubber has a flap that goes over the pinchweld, put a strong cord clear around the groove in the rubber before installing and use it to pull the flap over the pinchweld from the outside. It may not be imperative to have a helper here but it will sure make things easier and safer. Be sure to feed the ends of the cord through the opening before setting the glass. Attached a few pictures which should help. Bob H
  4. kgreen: I appreciate your offer of the maroon shifter knob but the ivory matches all my other knobs and permanent steering wheel. In the first sentence of this post I listed my goals of preserving the car long-term and cruising it for pleasure. Car shows are simply not my bag nor to I intend to submit the car to anyone for judging except the general public. There are many excellent "authentic" restorations out there, one more would not be noticed. The car has the heart, soul and technology of a 1939 Buick Special but has mild styling and trim tweaks as well as improvements to safety, reliability and driveability. The 6 volt electrical system, for example, has been retained but modified to keep everything burning brightly. Fasteners were/are kind of fun. I carefully catalogued each fastener and entered them into a computer spread sheet, nearly 300 different kinds of fasteners. Some were used only once, others by the dozen. I used grade 8 Made in USA nuts and bolts on all critical suspension and steering parts, ground the grade markings off to disguise them. Body mounts and similar important bolts are Made in USA grade 5, treated the same way as the grade 8's. Some original hardware was restored and reused, the acme thread screws in the front sheet metal are originals. Replaced most sheet metal screws and smaller machine screws with stainless steel. Every bolt, nut, washer, and screw on the car has been replaced or refurbished painted or plated. Again , thanks to all who helped move this project along with their unique brands of help and parts. Bob H
  5. Northwest Transmission (Parts?) did a great job with my 1939. Bob H
  6. Started this restoration in 2014 with the goals of doing everything possible to preserve the car in the future and to drive it for pleasure. We took the car, which is far from finished, for it's first short shakedown cruise last Sunday. All the basic safety features are working and it is licensed. The engine performed far beyond all expectations, ran flawlessly, held good oil pressure and stayed cool. The rebuilt transmission however, is really noisy in first gear, works OK but not what I expected for noise. The transmission shifted well, as we had hoped, after spending quite a bit of time adjusting and fine-tuning this unique shift linkage. Steering was a white-knuckle adventure. The tires are junk yard rag radials. A new set of tires and an alignment should make things right. The clutch worked quite well. The brakes are up to the task but need to adjust the parking brake. The South Wind heater is not working yet - would have been nice on a 40 degree day. All gauges in the restore cluster work great. Gonna miss power steering and brakes. I might need to figure out how to add some strength to these old arms. Missed outside mirrors and reached for a turn signal switch to the left of the steering wheel more than once. Thanks to all of those who provided support getting us here! More to go, but we have reached a significant landmark. Bob H
  7. You may not have a logging supply that has a hydraulic hose shop where you are but we do. With absolutely no hassle, they made up a set of three slightly longer hydraulic hoses for our 1939 Buick project. Really nice stuff, fast turnaround and better pricing than aftermarket Buick parts suppliers. Look for a shop that does hydraulic hoses. Bob H
  8. Rich: FYI, I have a ton of 1939 Special sedan parts including an intact parts sedan that still has a lot left. New never installed wheel cylinders, master cylinder and the three flexible brake lines for $200 plus freight. Also have new, most of the glass and nearly all the rubber weatherstripping and window seals. Have a new uninstalled RI Wire rear harness. I am not a parts vendor but a serious restorer winding down a high end restoration of a 1939 Special convertible. Have a lot of new and used parts left over plus duplicates. Free advice provided at no charge. Good luck with the project and keep posting. Bob H, Rainier, Oregon 97048
  9. I have a 1939 Special radiator that has been pressure tested, flow checked and given a clean bill of health by a reputable local shop. $275 plus freight that is probably prohibitively expensive, zip code 97048. Bob H
  10. Billy: I am not an authority on the trunk interior finish but have gathered up a couple of bits of information that may help you on to the next step. First, I have attached a sedan trunk photo from an unknown source that shows a lot of detail. It looks authentic but may at least generate some comment. And, I have a number of photos of a parts convertible that I have in my possesion, it looks a lot like the sedan photo only in worse shape. The convertible side panels were not upholstered. There was a carpet panel, which I have, over the spare tire cover board. Bob H
  11. Gary: Not sure at all what you need but have attached a couple of pictures showing the headlight mounting set up, one from underneath and the other from the top. The headlight back-up plate is held to the support arm by a large diameter, short carriage bolt. The plate is attached to the sheet metal with 1/4" bolts evident in the top photo. The wiring goes through the big hole and the headlight mounting studs through the other three holes. Bob H
  12. I am in the final assembly phase on a nut and bolt restoration of a 1939 Special convertible coupe and have a ton of surplus 1939 parts including a Special sedan. And still need a few items. Live in Rainier, Oregon but we will be in Sacramento visiting family starting Friday the 14th. Perhaps we could meet and discuss what both of us have and what we need. Thanks, Bob H
  13. Northwest Transmission (Parts?), they have it all and are willing to help. Worked with them on my 1939 transmission. Bob H
  14. Bob H


    Oops! Shows you what I know about 1951 windshields, I assumed flat. Might not hurt to check with that local supplier anyhow, their specialty is glass for old cars. Bob H