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Bob H

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About Bob H

  • Birthday 07/29/1934

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  1. Greetings to all of you out in 1939 Special land. My 1939 46C is nearly finished and I have come up with a pile of surplus parts that I would like to sell to a 1939 fan or fans. My health has failed me and I most likely won't see the convert finished. It probably kept me going past my limit though ( I am 86 years old ). Rather than leave these parts for my heirs to dispose of I would like to try and get then into the proper hands. I have entered them on a spreadsheet and have pictures of most. Ideally, I would like them to all go to one place but that might be a pipedream. If it comes down to it I will try to sell them individually. I have parts ranging from glass to trim - brake parts, engine parts, electrical, and sheet metal. Most of the parts are not for convertible but fit sedan mainly and coupe. Deeply discounted price for the entire lot. Unfortunately the parts are in Rainier, Oregon so shipping will be an issue. I have pretty much resigned myself to a lot of the big parts going for scrap. I hesitated to post the spreadsheet now but wanted to get a feel for interest in the parts. I would like to apologize now for my response times. My health is poor and I will need to work around bad days and medical appointments. No rush orders here. Thanks for listening, Bob H
  2. Thanks for the suggestions. I discovered that I had two more of these hubcaps on a parts car. They were on 15" wheels. I have listed them for sale with these two meager bits of information - the listing from Bob's catalog and their fitting to 15" wheels. Thanks again, Bob H
  3. Thanks for the informative info. I bought the hubcaps some time ago from a Buick enthusiast who had sold his 1939 and had a few parts left over. All the parts fit my 1939 except the hubcaps. Thanks for the help, Bob H
  4. I have way too many of these hubcaps that don't fit the 1939 Special that I bought four of them for. Tried an ID post on the Prewar site and came up with a couple of clues that they may fit 1939 big cars. Then I discovered that I had more of the darn things on a parts car in the yard, on 15 inch wheels. They are all probably in average condition for 80 year old parts. Small dings and scratches but no really big dents. They will shine up a bit but don;t have the deep luster of fresher chrome. It wouldn't hurt too bad to see one of these flying off into the deep woods - lost forever. All six of them for $75 plus freight from Rainier, Oregon 97048. Prefer them to all go at once but would negotiate on a lot of two minimum. My guess is that that they go into my scrap pile. Thanks for looking, Bob H
  5. I bought this set of hubcaps that were supposed to fit 1939 Special which they do not. Can someone identify what they fit so I can list them for sale? The opening measures a bit over 9-5/8", close to 9-3/4". Thanks, Bob H
  6. I have a set 1939 rods machined for insert bearings/ $450 + shipping. Bob H
  7. Before you remove the cluster from the dash take a look at the speedometer housing and make sure the screws that hold it to the cluster housing are intact. Also, there is no need to remove the cluster to get the speedometer out for service. There are six screws that hold the speedometer to the housing, see photo. Disconnect the cable and remove the high beam indicator light. You will also need to take the odometer reset cable loose ftron the dash. Bob H
  8. No, the entire cluster assembly - speedo, the other four gauges, the glass, trim and housing comes out of the dash in one piece. Each of the gauges , including the speedometer, can be removed from the front, or cowl side of the housing, without taking the cluster out of the dash. Bob H
  9. The speedometer assembly, trip meter cable and all, comes out from the cowl ( forward ) side of the gauge cluster. Disconnect the cable, take the reset cable loose from the dash, remove the high beam indicator light ( there may be other lights ), remove the half dozen or so retaining screws that might already be gone, and pull the speedo out of the housing. Bob H
  10. FYI: I am in the early stages of a tire experiment. Bought a set of tubeless 6.50x16 bias ply tires from Simple Tire for my 1939 Special convertible. They are 6 ply rated but say 4 ply on the sidewall - less than $90 delivered and I'll state right now that I don't shop for cheap, nothing else on this car is cheap. Blackwalls (that's what I want) with sort of an industrial or light truck look, kind of homely off the car. They mounted up and balanced quite well, they run true. Expect to get them on my car later this week but I won't be cruising it soon. If they don't work out I'll report back. Bob H
  11. I'll take one for my spares box. Shipment to 97048, no rush. How do you want to get paid? Bob H
  12. Great news! The tortoise wins again. Bob H
  13. Recently installed a pair of windshields in my 1939 convertible, yours would be similar but there are differences. Used 3M bedding compound, a 3/16" bead around the perimeter of the wind shield opening. This material never sets up like a true adhesive. Nothing between the rubber and the glass, it should seal, or OK to seal it later if it leaks. The glass, both at the same time, goes into the opening from the inside. Install the glass in the rubber on the bench, see picture. The convertible rubber comes in three pieces and may not be the same as yours. We installed the forward most center divider strip in the car and I made a temporary divider strip out of cedar. installed the glass and temp divider in the rubber - pix. Raised the outboard ends of the assembly to approximate the vee angle in the windshield and taped the temp divider in securely, tape only on the interior side, visible in the pic of personnel. A suction cup on each windshield, and one person muscles the assembly into the opening from the inside. Piece of cake if you are young and strong which I am neither, hence the helpers. Added the second center divider strip over a generous application of bedding compound. Installed the interior trim, which holds the glass in place, then we all stood back and bragged about how easy that was. If your windshield rubber has a flap that goes over the pinchweld, put a strong cord clear around the groove in the rubber before installing and use it to pull the flap over the pinchweld from the outside. It may not be imperative to have a helper here but it will sure make things easier and safer. Be sure to feed the ends of the cord through the opening before setting the glass. Attached a few pictures which should help. Bob H
  14. kgreen: I appreciate your offer of the maroon shifter knob but the ivory matches all my other knobs and permanent steering wheel. In the first sentence of this post I listed my goals of preserving the car long-term and cruising it for pleasure. Car shows are simply not my bag nor to I intend to submit the car to anyone for judging except the general public. There are many excellent "authentic" restorations out there, one more would not be noticed. The car has the heart, soul and technology of a 1939 Buick Special but has mild styling and trim tweaks as well as improvements to safety, reliability and driveability. The 6 volt electrical system, for example, has been retained but modified to keep everything burning brightly. Fasteners were/are kind of fun. I carefully catalogued each fastener and entered them into a computer spread sheet, nearly 300 different kinds of fasteners. Some were used only once, others by the dozen. I used grade 8 Made in USA nuts and bolts on all critical suspension and steering parts, ground the grade markings off to disguise them. Body mounts and similar important bolts are Made in USA grade 5, treated the same way as the grade 8's. Some original hardware was restored and reused, the acme thread screws in the front sheet metal are originals. Replaced most sheet metal screws and smaller machine screws with stainless steel. Every bolt, nut, washer, and screw on the car has been replaced or refurbished painted or plated. Again , thanks to all who helped move this project along with their unique brands of help and parts. Bob H
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