Josh B.

Probably best you didn't. Based on what I know from an old boss who owned one, plus other info I've read or seen in videos, they area problem car and a money sink. They're pretty though! 😄

Man that looks slick. Sorta reminds me of a Dodge Stealth/Mitsubishi 3000GT rear. Welp, time to source an Alero wing! 😄

Ronnie, that's an Alero wing isn't it? I'm gonna have to do that to mine. It looks too good not to lol

Gotcha. Thanks guys. I figured it wouldn't cause any issues just leaving it out. I would leave it plugged in just so it doesn't look weird, but electronic smoke is unpleasant lol

Self explanatory. My IPC burned out in my '90, and it's my primary transportation. Can I still drive it anyway? I have no way of getting another IPC for at least a week. I assume it won't affect anything since it only outputs data sent from the BCM/ECU?

It's my understanding that you can definitely slap an old Eaton (M62 I think?) on it (I have a 90 also), but that it also requires at least a reprogram of the ECM. I don't know if there's anything else that would need adjustment. I've thought about supercharging, but I'm unsure I wanna spend the time doing it. Plus I'm not sure how well the tranny would handle the power boost.

I have a similar issue. I'm 99% sure the motor that moves the rod is locked up. I can't get the arm to turn for anything. But I was able to disconnect the rod and control the door manually.

Hey all. So I'm needing to replace the bushings/bearings in the headlight gearboxes. The driver's side works fine, but the passenger side occasionally bounces a bit before finally popping up and the motor will almost always keep whirring along and clicking for about 3-4 seconds after it raises or lowers. So I figure it must be the bushings. If I remember correctly, the gear the bushings slot into is plastic, so I'm thinking I should replace them with metal gears while I'm already there replacing the bushings. I see some kits for sale on ebay with brass gears, and some with aluminum. Aluminum seems to make more sense from a weight perspective since I'd be replacing a plastic gear. Should I go with one material over the other? The kit I'm eyeballing right now is this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164861471786?fits=Model%3AReatta|Make%3ABuick&hash=item2662826c2a:g:e7cAAOSw9odfWAf5 Price seems reasonable, but I just want some input from youse guys before I pull the trigger.

A side note for those looking for a good cd player with bluetooth for their Reatta. I'm sure this is a more common option these days, but as it turns out, the Kenwood KDC-BT33 stereo unit I'm using has the option to change the display to any color you want, so it can match the rest of the dash pretty well.

Alrighty! Got it figured! Appreciate the assist, padgett. Though unfortunately some of the wire colors on that chart aren't in my car and some in my car aren't in that chart lol And I'll show my work a bit here, complete with a screenshot and a link to the shown spreadsheet showing the wiring connections using the Kenwood KDC-BT33 stereo unit and Scosche GM02B adapter. Hopefully it helps someone else out in the future. I tried to make it as easy to read as possible. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1lr9tmfJqsMyQWX9FNE3isvCaiAErNoBc0i-OG1BjXRA/edit?usp=sharing

So after having an aftermarket stereo for over a year, I finally decided to tackle installing it. I'm tired of listening to music on my phone while driving lol Hoo boy. I have a Kenwood CD/Bluetooth stereo, and a Scosche GM stereo wiring harness adapter (part no. GM02B, pictured toward the end). The adapter fits all four of the harness plugs that were plugged into the back of the factory non-Bose cassette/radio unit. (Unit is dead, probably bad capacitors. Might fix in the future, might not. I haven't owned cassettes in 20 years, so... yeah, hehe). I'm terrible at reading these types of wiring diagrams in the GM Repair Manual, but this is everything I've gathered so far. What I believe I know (please correct me if I'm wrong): White plug is the front speakers (TAN = Left+, GRAY = Left-, LT GREEN = Right+, DRK GREEN = Right-) Blue plug is the rear speakers (BROWN = Left+, YELLOW = Left-, DRK BLUE = Right+, LT BLUE = Right-) What I think I know (DEFINITELY correct me if I'm wrong): The black 6-wire plug shown below has four wires. Yellow, Brown/White, Pink, and Black. I *think* the PINK wire is what raises and lowers the antenna? BLACK I assume is ground? What I DEFINITELY don't know: The YELLOW and BROWN/WHITE wires on the 6-wire plug. I can't tell if these are radio and/or CD(not equipped in mine), or if these are the power wires for battery+ (maybe Yellow since book says "HOT AT ALL TIMES"?) and accessory+ (Brown/White?). Really unsure. However, I hope they're the power because of the one major thing that concerned me with the fourth plug. The fourth plug (shown below) is a 7-wire plug with four wires. Black, Purple/White, Gray, Green. The problem is that the adapter has a spot for the 7-wire plug to fit, but there are no connections to it. This leads me to believe the four wires in the 7-wire plug are unnecessary. But I don't know. PURPLE/WHITE and GRAY are labeled "Instrument Panel Dimming Cell" in the GM manual, which is probably incompatible with modern stereos anyway. I can only guess through process of elimination the GREEN one is what the book calls DK GRN and that is labeled as "Entertainment and Comfort Data Line." What in Ernest P. Worrell's world is that? lol Then that just leaves the BLACK wire which I can only guess is another ground wire of sorts for the others on this plug. And here is the adapter for reference (no pins/wires in the big one, lower left): So yeah, this is where I'm at 😵 Any help you guys can provide is greatly appreciated as always.

Congratulations! And also, curse you for making me really really want a spoiler for my Reatta as well! lol However, I do know someone with an Olds Alero that'll be getting junked soon... 🤔😁

Yeah, I was thinking connection as well, but as you said, it's 30 years old so I fully expect the possibility it has just gone bad and needs repair/replacement. Wasn't aware of the car-part.com site. I'll definitely check that out. I appreciate it, dship Good to know I'm not the only one who has had this exact issue. I'll have to root around this weekend when I have plenty of time in daylight to fiddle with it. Might get around to checking those connectors before work some day this week. Fingers crossed a shim will help. I will definitely hit up Jim and or BBA Reman if needed. Thanks a bunch for the info, Barney

I assume you're talking about the ECC module? Yeah, it works fine. The only display seeming to malfunction is the IPC. When I have time I'll probably check the connection from the IPC and see how well it's making contact. I suppose it's possible the cold weather is making the contacts contract enough to briefly disconnect, but I would think the idiot lights wouldn't work either (one of the idiot lights is on all the time, I can't remember which one at the moment). But I'm not versed at all on the inner working of the IPC enough to make that assumption. I may just see about getting another IPC to be on the safe side. I have a short enough drive to work I'm not super worried about my speed, but I'd rather be able to see my gauges lol

No CRT. It's a '90 😉 Appreciate it though