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Jim last won the day on October 29 2015

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  1. The master cylinder portion of the units rarely go bad but the most common parts to go bad in order are the accumulator, pressure switch and the pump/motor. This is an '88 unit and the pump/motors are quite hard to find so definitely save the pump/motor, accumulator and the pressure switch. ( the difference between the '88 units and the '89-90 units is for '88 they used a hose going to the master cylinder and the later ones used a steel line. The pumps and master cylinder are taped different. ) As long as you are saving those pieces just save everything. Very often if the brake fluid has not been changed about every five years the valve body on the side of the unit can also be bad so that is also nice to have as a spare. Ronnie has on his sight instructions on how to test accumulators. If battery and ground are applied to the two terminals on the motor and it runs it is probably good. Remove the connector on the pressure switch and look inside. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid next to any of the five pins, the switch is no good. With no seepage the switch can still be bad but most likely good. I always have all of these parts available but if you have a Reatta you can save some money in the future.
  2. I used to buy a lot of cars at Copart. Some locations they sell to the public and some locations are dealer only.
  3. For many years I have been rebuilding Reatta headlight switches and currently have 7 of the '90 switches available. I also have many of the '91 switches. All these switches have been disassembled, cleaned and any worn parts replaced. I then test them in my personal car. I sell them for $ 85 exchange and they come with a very nice looking "lights" button and the correct knob on the slider. I can be reached at reattas60@gmail.com
  4. I suggest you carry a flashlight. I have the parts you are looking for but it would not be an easy fix. The fiber optic line attaches to the back of the key cylinder and am not sure how you would disconnect it. You could replace the lock cylinder but then would have to have a different key or have my cylinder rekeyed. Here are pictures of the fiber optic line. Jim
  5. The inner part of the housing is a plastic/fiberglass and I do have a good one available. I can be reached at reattas60@gmail.com Jim
  6. Michael, Even though I just sent you a wiring harness, no charge, I am guessing you have forgotten I have Reatta parts available. What vacuum module are you looking for? Jim P.S. Thanks Dave for the recommendation.
  7. I have several '90 console tops and can check on the quality. Please send me an email at reattas60@gmail.com
  8. I have for years been repairing all years of the headlight switches. I have several of the '90 switches ready to go and my switches all come with very nice looking "lights" buttons and the correct knob on the slider. $ 85 exchange. I also have the '91 switches ready to do and the same applies the buttons and knob.
  9. I FULLY agree with those saying it is far easier to replace the column than to try and fix one. On pullers or special tools. I have been involved in this situation many times. If Dave has a column get it as they are Reatta only columns and getting hard to find. Riviera columns are slightly different as the cruise control wiring is different and hard to fish wires in these columns.
  10. Thank you everyone and especially Jon. I now know how to make my LEDs work and will accept Jon's harness. Jim
  11. Where did you get the "relay harness"?
  12. Even though I knew, but forgot, that for the headlight doors to work you have to have the headlight bulbs installed. I cannot find any reference to this in the shop manual but know if from past experience. I purchased some LED bulbs to replace the Halogen sealed beams and they work very good but now the doors on my '89 will not open or close. In addition the low beam portion of the LED bulbs is on very dimly even with the key off. Has anyone ever put in LED bulbs and made it work in a Reatta?
  13. Jim

    Reatta Hood Ornament

    There was only one style of hood emblems on Reattas. Sort of. All year emblems looked the same as pictured. The '89-91s were about 3 inches in diameter and the '88s were slightly smaller. When I say "sort of" The '88 and '90 Select 60s came from the factory with the standard emblem but the dealer was supposed to include with the car a special emblem as pictured below. I have lots of nice standard emblems available.
  14. My first thought was also to check the harmonic balancer and you should do that first. I would go with a used engine from a salvage yard. I have sent many many Reattas to the crusher with good engines in them as these engines are normally so good there is almost no demand for them and they are cheap. You will need to stick with an '88-90 engine as that is a direct replacement and no electrical or mechanical changes need to be done. An '88 engine has the 3800 stamped on the intake plennum but other than that is the same. Also find a small shop to do the work. $ 1500 sounds too high to me.