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Jim

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Jim last won the day on October 29 2015

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    Duluth MN

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  1. I have a repair service for all Reatta headlight switches including the '90 switches. The switches have been disassembled, cleaned and any defective parts replaced. I then put it back together with nice appearing buttons and then thoroughly test it in my personal '90 Reatta.
  2. I just picked up an '89 and am not sure what to do with it. Sell it as is for about 1600 or try and fix it and sell it. There is a repairable dent in the LH rear quarter and the side small window is broken. If you have this window please send me an email with the price and shipping to 55803. Thanks, Jim
  3. Occasionally not being able to read the codes from the ECC/IPC is a bad IPC. Over the years I have seen on several occasions where the IPC will work correctly in all functions but when trying to read the codes by pressing the buttons on the ECC, the system will start to function like it should but will not complete the task because there is a problem in the IPC. Before I sell an IPC I always check to make sure all the 12V indicator bulbs light up and the four switches do their thing and on the '90-91 IPCs I make sure it will go to diagnostics. I also test them for a minimum of 30 days in my personal car to make sure they are not intermittent. I do not, at this time, have any good '90-91 IPCs available.
  4. See my post just now under titled "park light"
  5. Jim

    Park light

    The most common part to go bad in the '88-89 Reattas is the headlight switch module and the most common problem is when you push the off button the parking lights stay on. Try, instead of, pushing the off button, hit is sharply with your finger or the eraser end of a pencil. For twenty years i have suggested a person does not purchase a used headlight switch on ebay or from even a junk yard unless the seller can guarantee all functions of the switch are in good working condition. These switches are a very complicated arrangement of sliders, contacts and even some hidden contacts. I rebuild all years of headlight switches and do have a tested good one available for all years.
  6. There is almost no demand for the older front clip parts. If the CRT is the older VI34 and it works, the touch screen from a Reatta will bolt right on. If it is the older CRT and it does not work, they are not repairable. The IPCs even though they look the same are different but mirror and window switches are the same and the headlight switch, most likely no good, is the same.
  7. With that style front bumper trim and grill the front clip is from an '86-88 Riviera.
  8. For yearsI have also been thinking of doing just the opposite to a Riviera. Put a Reatta front end on a Riviera. I even did some measuring to put a Reatta back end on and then I would have a 5 passenger Reatta. I had fully intended to do this last fall and looked to buy a Riv. What I ended up doing is buying a '92 Riv that is too nice to modify so instead of the last three years my summer driver being a '95 Corvette convertible and the previous 20 years a Reatta convertible now this summer I will drive the Riv. It has a nice big trunk for my golf clubs. Putting a Riv front on a Reatta is less work than the other way around as mentioned in the core support issues and of course the curvature of the meeting of the fender and door. If you put a Reatta front end on a Riv the mounting plates for the hidden headlight are different.
  9. Very easy solution I sell quite a few motor/regulators and have struggled with the sticky wheels for years. No amount of cleaning or greasing will work. For a few years I would heat the metal on the back side of the wheel with a torch and as the metal got hot it would start to melt the plastic wheel and when the wheel started to turn freely I would quickly douse the wheel and ball with water to cool it off. This sometimes took a couple of tries before getting the wheels free. Last fall having nothing to lose i pried a wheel off the ball and ran a 3/8 inch drill through the wheel and snapped it back on. The wheel stayed on the ball socket nicely and the wheels turn freely. I then did it too all my regulators on the shelf and all are good and ready for use.
  10. The one I ordered from topsonline will come with a plastic back window. This car is a rust free '90 convertible from FL/OK and I will be selling it but I am guessing the buyer will use this car for pleasure and not judging so by putting in a plastic window I will have less in the car and can sell it for less. One note about topsonline is I just called them today. I ordered the top on April 8th and there is a 4 week time lag so I won't get the top until estimated May 9.
  11. I replaced a top on a Reatta convertible about 2 years ago and it was very easy. There is no stretching so to speak and all you have to do is first align the beading of the new top over the windshield and glue it and put on the strip and then do the same at the rear. Make sure the top is aligned squarely and glue and attach the top in the rear and you are done. The top attaches solely to the frame so there is no stretching to make it fit to the body. I think last time I paid just over $ 500 from Tops On Line but just last Thursday I ordered another one from them and it was $ 440.
  12. Thanks, Ronnie. Goyo did contact me and I got back to him. I do have all years of the headlight switches available rebuilt and tested.
  13. The price might be a good deal. I parted out an '89 a year ago that had 399,000 miles on it and it looked and ran good. It looked like a 50,000 mile car both inside and out. I also have parts cars that have around 100,000 miles and look like someone lived in them. Bad paint torn/worn interior. The key is if it is a southern car with not rust. If so, and the paint is decent and the interior is decent and it runs good it could be a very fine car. Condition, condition, condition.
  14. The wheels weigh about 21# each. That makes them worth $ 11.55 each so I guess you are right with about 50 of them, that is more than I was thinking. Maybe I will take them to the crusher.
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