SCOTT's 90's

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About SCOTT's 90's

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  • Birthday December 15

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  1. The temperature valve door controller will have trouble over time -- I mean our cars are about 30 years old. If that is working as it should you might want to check the vacuum hoses that are underneath the controller they will crack or become unplugged. As 63viking said check out Ronnie's ROJ site under How-to-Guides and look at No Heat - Troubleshooting . Here is a link but not sure if it will take you to the exact one.
  2. Very good suggestion from 2seater... When I was having similar stalling trouble I got both of those and put them in the back of seat (Not in the stow away) so that I could grab them real quick and do the tests on the side of the road - If need be. I actually did have to do this one day when it stalled - This proved that I did not have an immediate issue with fuel pressure or spark.
  3. Actually Yes it is still driveable - My cluster went out a couple years ago and I decided to take it out to inspect it. In doing so I had to go on an errand so I took my 90" to do it, the only trouble was I didn't know how fast I was going ... 🤣. After that I had to break down and get a replacement cluster which took a couple weeks, the whole time I had to drive the car without the cluster installed.
  4. Your best bet is to go with Dave, since you said someone has done a number on your switch. Bad things can happen if the switch isn't put together properly and you don't want to go there.
  5. Just before I put my Reatta away for the winter I got into the trunk to get the cover out and low and behold the trunk mat and the underside of the trunk was dripping wet. The only explanation I could come up with was humidity causing condensation...Good thing I caught it when I did or that would have been bad come Spring!
  6. Hope you will continue to visit us on the forum now and then.
  7. One things for sure - It Really does SHINE 😎 Very nice Vert!
  8. Thank you Ronnie for your help and everyone else. Coming from ROJ originally I can honestly say you have done a fabulous job there and as a modulator here. I personally wouldn't like to moderate a forum like you said you can't please everyone. If no one else takes the opportunity I am sure you will continue to do your best - kudos to you!
  9. Oh okay, Thanks for that I guess we can chalk up another difference between the years. 😉
  10. Actually there is a little plastic tab that extends over the gap to keep the two pieces flush with each other, which yours appears to have been broken off. But it is no big deal since it is not that visible anyways.
  11. Be very careful when removing those - The little plastic alignment pegs (in each corner on back side) break easily. If more than one breaks the whole thing will not stay in place and you will be worse off than before with just the bottom piece broken.
  12. Scott, I just replaced mine a month ago and it works great, because it is an AC Delco OEM. I bought it off of RockAuto for $134 with a 5% discount. here is the Info: (Note the Bolded CS144) ACDELCO 3351224 {#19298376} (New) Professional Pulley Outside Diameter 2.2 IN Pulley Outside Diameter 57.0 MM Voltage 12 2H DE to Pulley 1st Groove 0.87 IN DE to Pulley 1st Groove 22.0 MM DE to Rotor Shaft End 1.69 IN DE to Rotor Shaft End 43.0 mm Plug Clock Rear View Main Mounting Ear at 6 O Clock 10 Plug Type 309 Terminal Connection Quantity 4 Alternator Case Material Aluminum Finish Same as OE Fan Type External Ground Type Negative Rotation Direction Clockwise External Fan Included Yes One Wire Capable No Pulley Included Yes Family Delco CS144 Pulley Groove Quantity 6 Pulley Belt Type Serpentine Regulator Type Internal Amperage Rating 120 68 Mounting Type 1 Pivot Foot Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 19298376 Here is the discount code and directions: 9586151991308087 How to Use Your Discount Code Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" box without any other numbers or characters.
  13. Dave is right - using the small tubing works great. Although after checking mine a couple months ago to make sure it was still in place I noticed that the tubing was starting to flatten out so the seal wasn't being pushed out against the glass as well as it was when new. I got to thinking that in the spring I will go to a hose supply co. and get the 1\4" braided tubing which has braided string inside the vinyl making it much more rigid.
  14. UPDATE! Dec. 10th So to catch up those who might be interested in this - I last decided to remove both the BCM & ECM's to check them and make sure the plugs were tight etc... Then I posted a question about bubbling on the back of the ECM's circuit board (which turned out to be normal), but I am a little bit suspicious about it. After that I really wanted to swap the modules with my other Reatta, but it is in storage and the weather has been snowy, cold and smoggy. So I broke down and decided to order a refurbished ECM. Well it showed up today and I switched out the PROM's and temporarily installed it (It is just kinda hanging down from the dash). I connected the battery and crossed my fingers and turned on the ignition to check for codes - No codes other than the normal 552, so I cleared the codes and then started her up. She fired up quickly and I let her idle for a bit until she was almost at normal temps. Then I got brave and decided to take her for a spin to the store and back. She ran great no problems so far! I will continue to take her on small trips to see if all holds out and the issues do not come back - I hope they don't. I will keep those updated. Thank You