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SCOTT's 90's

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About SCOTT's 90's

  • Birthday December 15

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  1. Eureka! It worked! Thank You Padgett, I guess it was just short enough to not make a good connection. I think I will take a break from working on my cars for a little while, that was too exhausting and frustrating, I need to enjoy the Reatta to get my spirits up and then I will think about doing another project. Thanks for everyone's help
  2. Okay, I just went out and took the ICM and Coils off of my running Reatta (Started it before I removed it) and put it on the problem child and had the same results - Not Starting! Has anyone come across something where the wires on the ICM connector have been moved or rewired? Because on the one that is running the connector has 13 wires going to the pins and the other connector has all wires going to all 14 pins but one of the wires is missing (Female side) - sorry confusing, so one connector has 13 wires and the other has 14 wires but missing the female connector and the connections are different. I will try to upload a picture so you can see what I am talking about.
  3. Hi Ronnie, Yes all the spark plugs are working great, in fact I just changed all of them this morning because of the Gap difference with the new set up requiring .060" There are No codes.
  4. First off, I know this has been discussed several times in the forums and I have looked, read, tried and tested to no avail. So about two months ago since I had more time to spend on the Reatta's I figured I would do a little maintenance. Most of all I wanted to check the original ICM (Magnavox) and sure enough it is showing signs of the green omen. So I started my venture to the pick yard and picked up a set of the newer Delphi coils and ICM from a Lumina that looked pretty good (No rust or corrosion). I should also mention that I have already replaced the ICM and coils on my other Reatta about two years ago and everything went smooth and it started up like a new car, first try. I came home and started the exchange in excitement because this 90' Reatta has only 62,000miles on it so the newer setup should be interesting to see how much better it will perform. After cleaning the plate of any corrosion making sure I had a solid grounding surface I then installed the ICM and the three coils, plugged it in making sure it was seated well. Then I put the wires on the coils making sure they were on the right cylinder and then connected the battery. Now it was time to be excited and when I turned the key the first thing it did was almost backfire. It would not start for nothing not even a full engine combustion rotation. It sounded like it wanted to start but wouldn't. So I checked and rechecked the wires, plugs, connections, etc, etc...... By this time I was so frustrated and it was getting late so I put the old Magnavox back on and it started right up without any hesitation. I figured that I got a bad ICM or a coil pack was bad, so I took them back and exchanged it out for another one, which I can't remember what vehicle I got it off of. Back to try it again and the same exact problem, I thought there is no way I got another bad set. I just changed it out again with the Magnavox and it started fine. So about a week ago I decided to bite the bullet and just get a whole NEW ICM and three Coils from Amazon. I made sure it was a D1977a ICM and the coils were D555 and it said that they would fit a 91 Reatta 3.8......etc. I just got them in the mail Friday but there is one slight concern, the part numbers are LX364 (ICM) and BS3006 (Coils) I looked them up and they are compatible/direct fit parts. Well today Saturday I started the whole routine again with swapping out the old with the NEW and as you can guess the reason I am writing this - The Same Damn thing happened!!! Does anyone have a clue what is going on?
  5. Hi Josh, Yeah I had a similar issue with the "hard Pushing" of the button before mine blew up too. As far as keeping it all together you may have to get a used switch, or see if someone here has a bad one that they would sell you. One important thing about these switches is if there are any loose or non-operable parts inside the switch it will cause arcing which would completely melt the switch or even worse cause a fire which you do not want. The reason for this is there is power available to the switch even without the ignition on - so be careful.
  6. Yes Ronnie I still use most of the data there, either for diagnostics or regular maintenance. As said previously if you can keep it going it would be great.
  7. Hi Stanley, Yeah those are the worst to remove. I tugged on mine for what seemed like an hour but finally after a lot of force they came apart. They are like the speaker connections on some cars that have a tiny pin on the blade end (male) that fits into the terminal end hole (female).
  8. Yes the BCM is behind the glove box and is removed that way. The ECM is also behind the glove box but is removed from under the glove box, you will have to remove a few of the vacuum lines in order to pull it out all the way - It is kinda tricky. I hope it is the same for the 89' if not please correct me someone - Sorry if I am wrong. Do you have a FSM Factory Service Manual, if not you might want to get one.
  9. Thanks Ronnie for clearing that up, I couldn't remember what it was called. Mine is broken and like you CBChadwell I have foregone the idea of tearing into the dash to fix it so I just live with it the way it is for now.
  10. Wait WHAT! the odometer is actually increasing the miles??? So the computer actually thinks the car is going 124mph ... Hmmmm
  11. Sorry I didn't mean to jump to conclusions - Check the other things suggested above and let us know what your results are.
  12. I actually found one last year for a whopping $95.00 I guess I found it at just the right time It wasn't NOS but from a low mileage car and still had the purple sticker untouched.
  13. Does air come through the vents when you switch it to them, (not defrost or floor but bi-level) if not then the mix door that controls the direction of the air - the arm may be broken.
  14. Like Barney and Dave said there are many on eBay, for example; reattapartscalifornia - eBay seller just recently discounted (if you want to call it a discount) a NOS 90' Headlight switch for $506.59 orig $595.99 so yeah they are going to be highly priced.
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