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Everything posted by Jim

  1. I have a repair service for all Reatta headlight switches including the '90 switches. The switches have been disassembled, cleaned and any defective parts replaced. I then put it back together with nice appearing buttons and then thoroughly test it in my personal '90 Reatta.
  2. I just picked up an '89 and am not sure what to do with it. Sell it as is for about 1600 or try and fix it and sell it. There is a repairable dent in the LH rear quarter and the side small window is broken. If you have this window please send me an email with the price and shipping to 55803. Thanks, Jim
  3. Occasionally not being able to read the codes from the ECC/IPC is a bad IPC. Over the years I have seen on several occasions where the IPC will work correctly in all functions but when trying to read the codes by pressing the buttons on the ECC, the system will start to function like it should but will not complete the task because there is a problem in the IPC. Before I sell an IPC I always check to make sure all the 12V indicator bulbs light up and the four switches do their thing and on the '90-91 IPCs I make sure it will go to diagnostics. I also test them for a minimum of 30 days in my personal car to make sure they are not intermittent. I do not, at this time, have any good '90-91 IPCs available.
  4. See my post just now under titled "park light"
  5. Jim

    Park light

    The most common part to go bad in the '88-89 Reattas is the headlight switch module and the most common problem is when you push the off button the parking lights stay on. Try, instead of, pushing the off button, hit is sharply with your finger or the eraser end of a pencil. For twenty years i have suggested a person does not purchase a used headlight switch on ebay or from even a junk yard unless the seller can guarantee all functions of the switch are in good working condition. These switches are a very complicated arrangement of sliders, contacts and even some hidden contacts. I rebuild all years of headlight switches and do have a tested good one available for all years.
  6. There is almost no demand for the older front clip parts. If the CRT is the older VI34 and it works, the touch screen from a Reatta will bolt right on. If it is the older CRT and it does not work, they are not repairable. The IPCs even though they look the same are different but mirror and window switches are the same and the headlight switch, most likely no good, is the same.
  7. With that style front bumper trim and grill the front clip is from an '86-88 Riviera.
  8. For yearsI have also been thinking of doing just the opposite to a Riviera. Put a Reatta front end on a Riviera. I even did some measuring to put a Reatta back end on and then I would have a 5 passenger Reatta. I had fully intended to do this last fall and looked to buy a Riv. What I ended up doing is buying a '92 Riv that is too nice to modify so instead of the last three years my summer driver being a '95 Corvette convertible and the previous 20 years a Reatta convertible now this summer I will drive the Riv. It has a nice big trunk for my golf clubs. Putting a Riv front on a Reatta is less work than the other way around as mentioned in the core support issues and of course the curvature of the meeting of the fender and door. If you put a Reatta front end on a Riv the mounting plates for the hidden headlight are different.
  9. Very easy solution I sell quite a few motor/regulators and have struggled with the sticky wheels for years. No amount of cleaning or greasing will work. For a few years I would heat the metal on the back side of the wheel with a torch and as the metal got hot it would start to melt the plastic wheel and when the wheel started to turn freely I would quickly douse the wheel and ball with water to cool it off. This sometimes took a couple of tries before getting the wheels free. Last fall having nothing to lose i pried a wheel off the ball and ran a 3/8 inch drill through the wheel and snapped it back on. The wheel stayed on the ball socket nicely and the wheels turn freely. I then did it too all my regulators on the shelf and all are good and ready for use.
  10. The one I ordered from topsonline will come with a plastic back window. This car is a rust free '90 convertible from FL/OK and I will be selling it but I am guessing the buyer will use this car for pleasure and not judging so by putting in a plastic window I will have less in the car and can sell it for less. One note about topsonline is I just called them today. I ordered the top on April 8th and there is a 4 week time lag so I won't get the top until estimated May 9.
  11. I replaced a top on a Reatta convertible about 2 years ago and it was very easy. There is no stretching so to speak and all you have to do is first align the beading of the new top over the windshield and glue it and put on the strip and then do the same at the rear. Make sure the top is aligned squarely and glue and attach the top in the rear and you are done. The top attaches solely to the frame so there is no stretching to make it fit to the body. I think last time I paid just over $ 500 from Tops On Line but just last Thursday I ordered another one from them and it was $ 440.
  12. Thanks, Ronnie. Goyo did contact me and I got back to him. I do have all years of the headlight switches available rebuilt and tested.
  13. The price might be a good deal. I parted out an '89 a year ago that had 399,000 miles on it and it looked and ran good. It looked like a 50,000 mile car both inside and out. I also have parts cars that have around 100,000 miles and look like someone lived in them. Bad paint torn/worn interior. The key is if it is a southern car with not rust. If so, and the paint is decent and the interior is decent and it runs good it could be a very fine car. Condition, condition, condition.
  14. The wheels weigh about 21# each. That makes them worth $ 11.55 each so I guess you are right with about 50 of them, that is more than I was thinking. Maybe I will take them to the crusher.
  15. Nic, Only four? I have been sitting on these Reatta wheels for quite some time now. My local junk yard has a pile of tens of thousands of aluminum wheels just sitting there. Oops, if someone looks close there are four Corvette wheels in that pile.
  16. Jim

    RKE Question

    It appears there was a mid year change. Some '89s had the antenna fully horizontal in the blacked out area at the top of the glass. This must not have been ideal as some '89s and all '90s had a loop antenna bonded to the glass similar to the rear window defrosters. The button connectors are similar to that of a 9V battery but both are the same and they are soldered to the black area on the glass. I am attaching some pictures of the loop style. The early, I am guessing, is just two bars going away from the buttons. They appear to be not a loop but an antenna going each way and not connected to each other. The loop style on the late '89s and '90s appear to be a loop. The last picture is of the length of the "wires"
  17. That is a thought but would be pretty difficult. How much would you bend it and which way. Then you have a problem testing to see if you got it right. This could be done with the tank out of the car and with a known amount of gas in the tank and then a temporary extension assembly of the wiring so you can plug it into the car and use the IPC to get the gauge to read correctly while bending. All this having been said, I am guessing you would might be able to get it near correct at maybe the low fuel end but then the full tank would be off my more. The BCM and IPC are designed for a variable range of about 200 ohms.
  18. I agree with Ronnie, nice car and it is actually a pretty rare early car with the 16 way suede seats. The '88-89 Reattas had steel gas lines all the way from the tank to the engine. If you find the leak in an accessible area you can using some high pressure gas hose, cut out the bad area and replace it with hose.
  19. Bleeding the brakes. I believe you can also find this same info on Ronnie's site. 1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system. 2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600 pounds of pressure in the accumulator. 3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid. 4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system. 5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders. 6. To bleed the rear brakes A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it. C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding) When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.
  20. Dave, Interesting you mentioned your gauge is now off. i am sure you are correct that that is the reason for the different part numbers. A while back I was getting some sending units from other Buicks and noticed the resistor that the slide rubs on was different on different models. I remember one was about 350 ohms. The correct resistance for all year Reattas is about 200 ohms so it must be that Cadillac probably using a different BCM and definitely a different instrument cluster will require a different value resistor on the sending unit.
  21. Jim

    '90 idle too high

    Thanks everyone for the thoughts. It was the TPS. First I tried adjusting it and naturally I went the wrong way. I went the other way and still .058. Adjusted it more and the reading went down to .018 and the idle went right down to normal. I then tried adjusting it up a little but it went right up to the .058. I then replaced the TPS and after a couple of adjustments I now have .038 and a nice idle. The '90 manual shows it should be between .033 and .046. My ED21 and 22 were out of spec but now with a good TPS they fell right into place. There is an asterisk/foot note saying if the ED20 is 150 it is a fuel code but it says there could be bad ground at the ICM. I do have good grounds there and the car runs fine so I am going to just ignore that reading. The car was warmed up and in closed loop. A little side note on what I learned is the IACs are '88-90 and '91 is different. The MAS also '88-90 with '91 different but the TPS is the same '88-91.
  22. Jim

    '90 idle too high

    Heading back out now to look further into the problem. I should have looked at the ED codes first as that would have saved me some time previously. I did change the PS pump and no difference. I disconnected the PS pressure sensor and no difference. I then did the EDs and have multiple issues. I do have a too high ED01, TPS mine is reading .058 I have an ED20 Block Learn Memory of 150. That supposedly means I have a bad ground at the ignition module. I took off the module, cleaned all the surfaces and put on a different module and still 150. Need to trace this ground. My ED21 Air Flow is supposed to be 4-7 and mine is varying 86-90. My ED 22 IAC supposed to be 10-50 mine is 71. I did last week replace the IAC but I am thinking if I fix the ED01 then this code might get better. My ED23 MAT says it varies but mine is on 0.
  23. Jim

    '90 idle too high

    Ronnie, You may have hit the nail on the head with your link. I do have too high power steering pressure. When I drove the car a few years ago the steering was too easy. At that time I was worried I might blow a hose or seal or something but nothing ever went wrong so I left it. The steering is still way easier than any other Reatta I have ever driven. Padgett, Thanks for the EDxx settings. I have not looked at how to get them for a long time but will refresh my learning and look at them but I think first I will look at the power steering situation and see why my pressure is too high causing the steering to be too easy and probably the cause of my high idle. Thanks everyone. Jim Follow up 15 minutes later. I need to get on this high pressure problem asap as I just remembered yesterday I had to add some PS fluid. This means I definitely have a leak and hopefully if I lower the pressure right away the leak will not get worse or maybe hopefully will stop. The last thing I want to do is change a rack and pinion on a Reatta. I have a spare on the shelf but this is not an fun/easy job.
  24. The convertibles have a much more involved circuit for operating the trunk solenoid. You almost have to have a factory shop manual. One big item is the tonneau cover has go be down before the trunk solenoid will operate. My_Youth----- If yours is not working, open the tonneau cover and then sort of slam it back down and see then if your trunk will open.
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