EmTee

Someone on TV stated that the shadow was traveling across the earth's surface at 1500 mph! Even without seeing the corona in person it was still a neat experience.

Totality here for about a minute, but only saw a sliver just before and again just after totality due to the @%$* clouds! Still, it was eerie having darkness fall so quickly - saw a beautiful 'sunset' band on the horizon just below the clouds for the 180° I could see looking north. That's the first and last total eclipse I'll experience...

Well now, that's good to know - thanks, Neil! I'll have to look and see whether there's anything like that shown in my '38 shop manual...

You could try placing the end of your unlit (valve open) propane torch there instead of spraying starting fluid.

Send that one in to Ray for publishing on pg. 5 of the next issue of the Riview ("Riviera Business Sightings)!

Older material (except for leather) isn't ethanol-tolerant and could cause trouble, if age alone wasn't to blame. The accelerator pump diaphragm in my Riviera lets me know whenever it detects ethanol in the fuel! I have a new one (blue colored) I bought awhile ago to install , but since I run ethanol-free 99% of the time I haven't put this task on my 'must-do ASAP' list...

Maybe shoes rubbing an out-of-round drum? If you have a set of brake diameter calipers you could check them when cold. There's a runout spec in the shop manual. If you can separate the drum from the hub you could invert the drum and check with a dial indicator. Given that the sound goes away when everything warms-up and you don't feel any pulsing in the brake pedal I'd just inspect everything (which it sounds like you have done) and monitor the situation. Swapping tires front-to-back as suggested above would be a good thing to try, just to confirm or refute a tire issue.

All '32 Buicks are handsome, but that color really looks great on it!

They are sharp-looking cars; particularly the coupe. I think the coupe looks better than the roadster with the top up. Keep your eyes peeled for a set of euro-spec headlights...

They look like they were 'steam cleaned', which is why I suspect a coolant leak. I agree high temp (e.g., lean condition) could also cause light color, but I'd expect to see some ash deposits, which don't seem to exist. That said, since these valves are pretty new (2019) and likely have accumulated limited mileage, maybe that explains the lack of sandy-colored combustion deposits...

ALI certification was one of my lift 'must haves'. It at least provides an objective 'apples-to-apples' criterion for comparison. As Turbinator noted, another item on my list was local installation and support.

The best thing about wheels and tires is that they can be easily changed. Since you already have the rally wheels and tires I'd source a set of stock rims to go with the wheel covers and mount a set of thin whitewall tires on them. Then you're free to swap back-and-forth depending upon the show (i.e., points vs. cruise-in) and your mood. The rally wheels and redlines can always be used on the SS...

Crack or porosity in the cylinder(s)?

Steve, I think you nailed it with the rally wheels & redlines. If you opt for the wheel covers, I suggest the thin whitewalls. Another option might be these:

For vinyl I've had good results with this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-39040-Leather-Vinyl-Restorer/dp/B0002NUNM0?th=1 If leather, I use Lexol

Yikes -- I hope it sounds better than it looks!

When the PO removed the pump did they install a block-off plate? If the engine needs to be lifted to remove the rod, is it possible that it could still be in the block?

I'd love to have a '67 or '68 Firebird Sprint. Love the 'cammer Tempest too! Please keep us updated on its story.

I use my bench vice, though some people use a BFH for removal. I would never use a hammer for installation...

Aside from the appearance of the split upper hose, there's no downside to leaving the Gano filter in place. So, I'm in no hurry to remove mine, but the next time I either check the stocking or drain coolant I may consider taking it out and reinstalling the reproduction 'wrapped' style hose.

Is that (highlighted in yellow) an O-ring groove?

You're in the deep end of the pool now! Get your tools organized and I'll make some popcorn...

I switched my '38 Buick over to this last summer. So far, so good; I really haven't noticed any difference from the generic NAPA green stuff I had been using, but given this is an open (non-pressurized) system, I figured the G-05's additional resistance to foaming wouldn't hurt.

I used to prefer the '64 over the '63, but now I like the '63 better. The '63 appears svelte, whereas the '64 looks like "it needs to lose 25 pounds"...

Looks like a plumb! I like the color.