EmTee

Steve, I think you nailed it with the rally wheels & redlines. If you opt for the wheel covers, I suggest the thin whitewalls. Another option might be these:

For vinyl I've had good results with this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-39040-Leather-Vinyl-Restorer/dp/B0002NUNM0?th=1 If leather, I use Lexol

Yikes -- I hope it sounds better than it looks!

When the PO removed the pump did they install a block-off plate? If the engine needs to be lifted to remove the rod, is it possible that it could still be in the block?

I'd love to have a '67 or '68 Firebird Sprint. Love the 'cammer Tempest too! Please keep us updated on its story.

I use my bench vice, though some people use a BFH for removal. I would never use a hammer for installation...

Aside from the appearance of the split upper hose, there's no downside to leaving the Gano filter in place. So, I'm in no hurry to remove mine, but the next time I either check the stocking or drain coolant I may consider taking it out and reinstalling the reproduction 'wrapped' style hose.

Is that (highlighted in yellow) an O-ring groove?

You're in the deep end of the pool now! Get your tools organized and I'll make some popcorn...

I switched my '38 Buick over to this last summer. So far, so good; I really haven't noticed any difference from the generic NAPA green stuff I had been using, but given this is an open (non-pressurized) system, I figured the G-05's additional resistance to foaming wouldn't hurt.

I used to prefer the '64 over the '63, but now I like the '63 better. The '63 appears svelte, whereas the '64 looks like "it needs to lose 25 pounds"...

Looks like a plumb! I like the color.

Perhaps $15K if it is as good as the pictures suggest. I vaguely remember these; they were not common as John noted. I guess it was a late-70s redux of the sport-sedan or "holiday" hardtop (aka:"Flat-Top"). Probably the most interesting variant of this generation Toronado.

I'd have to say that 'low mileage' is irrelevant when a car has sat outside undisturbed for 20 years...

I have both a Gano and stocking on my '38 Buick. At first, both were collecting stuff, with bigger pieces (flakes) at the Gano and fine, sandy sediment in the stocking. The last couple of times I checked there were only a couple of flakes in the Gano and about a teaspoon of sand/silt in the stocking. At this point, I could probably remove the Gano. One tip if you install a stocking (ankle-high): keep all of the nylon under the hose & clamp. If any nylon sticks out from under the hose it will slowly wick coolant and dribble down the hose...

That's my suspicion, however, the most likely cause is sub-optimal pump design (no CFD software back then), variable manufacturing/casting tolerances and higher sustained engine speeds on today's roads. In short, I can believe that the propensity for EG foaming would vary widely among pre-war, atmospheric cooling systems - even within the same manufacturer's models.

I don't know for certain, but the first place I'd look is for a lever somewhere near the center of the split in the bumper between the parking lights. Look through the grille and you should be able to see the mechanism. There should also be a secondary latch to release after the hood pops-up. You'll need to stick your fingers between the bottom of the hood and top of the grille and feel for it (or just look for it).

Yes, that was another of my criteria: 16-inch wheels (6-lug hubs). Most, if not all, of the 5,000 lb. axles I looked at had 16-inch wheels. I also bought one of those hard plastic tire-changing ramps to carry in the trailer. I also carry an assortment of 4x4 and 2x4 blocks to chock wheels, set under a jack or shim under the edge of the ramp door for loading/unloading. I used it at home to get familiar with it and adjust the brake shoes before each trip. On my first trip with the new trailer I was re-torquing lug nuts each morning as studs, nuts and wheels were settling-in. Next trip I still checked daily, but only one or two of the nuts required any additional tightening.

The other option would be to drill them out. Personally, I'd try to find someone with an oxy-acetylene torch first. Before drilling, you'll need to cut them flush and then center-punch the center of the stud to keep the drill bit from walking off-center. The trick is to start small and go slow, increasing the drill bit size without damaging the threads in the manifold.

You really need to get the car cleaned-up and out in the daylight for pictures, otherwise you'll certainly be leaving money on the table...

Same as mine. While talking to the dealer about the trailer I bought he remarked that he "ordered it as if he was buying it himself". Mine also has an extended tongue, which allows for tighter turns. After towing mine for ~5,000 miles now I can highly recommend the torsion axle suspension. It feels stable and controlled even when the road surface is poor or under construction (i.e., uneven lanes). On smooth pavement it's as if the trailer isn't even there.

Hmmmmm, definitely go look at this in person first if you're interested...

I recall a friend of mine in high school demonstrated an impressive front-wheel burnout with his mother's very similar Toronado...

I agree and given that I maintain my vehicles myself (and therefore know their maintenance history) I saw a potential trailer issue as the most likely reason for me to be stuck at the side of the road. That meant any used trailer I was considering had to be well maintained, or nearly new. I dickered with the dealer where I bought my trailer to trade the four fancy, alloy wheels for four steel wheels plus two identical spares to carry inside. I wasn't able to shave much from the trailer's price, however, I was able to get a new weight distributing hitch & ball with installation and setup for no additional charge.

Ouch!