EmTee

Can it just be soldered back together?

I prefer the hidden headlights on the '68, however, this looks like a very nice example at a reasonable price.

A friend of mine has a coupe in the same mahogany color; it's much better looking in person. The flat-top design makes a handsome 4-door, however, this one seems overpriced given the needs it has.

No, the coil springs and shocks are separate. In fact, the suspension on the Allante' is so different looking that I'm amazed it could be possible to bolt it onto a Reatta! I'll try to get some pictures to post here later...

My first thought was loose lug bolts - that'll also cause a wobbly wheel...

FYI, here are a few pictures of what my '38 Century looked like when I changed my axle seals and bearings...

Yes, but breaking the glass without damaging the vent window frame or mechanism might be tricky. How's the rubber around the vent window? If that's shot then you might try cutting it with a sharp utility knife to allow lassoing the window crank with a stiff wire coat hanger.

There could also be remains of some previous inhabitants (spiders, etc.) fouling-up the works. You may wind-up removing the steering wheel if the switch contacts are behind the steering wheel at the top of the column.

I went through this same ordeal with my Riviera. Finally, after 3 incorrect gaskets I punted and went with Permatex gasketmaker with no paper gasket. Glad I did - worked great. If you do what I did, apply the sealer bead, let the cover stand for 5~10 minutes and then install the cover with bolts evenly finger tight. I let mine stand overnight, then tightened the cover in a criss-cross pattern. No leaks!

When in doubt. "crawl, walk, run". I'd stay focused on getting the car roadworthy first before worrying about minor oil leaks and cosmetics. Pulling the engine can lead to additional complications/roadblocks...

I did something similar to eliminate that 'clang' on my '38.

Midnight Blue (Code 29)

My wife's '93 Allante' has coil springs in the rear suspension.

I'd suspect an issue with the turn signal switch. Maybe try shooting some WD-40 into the switch with the spray straw and carefully work the switch through all positions (Left-->Off-->Right) several cycles. Try the lights again and see whether there's any improvement.

Originally the general recommendation for radial tires was to not change the direction of rotation; so only swap F-->R-->F. The last 20 years or so that recommendation has been changed to allow swapping side-to-side, consistent with bias-ply tires. Most times I personally rotate tires F-->R--F unless I see unusual wear. The biggest factors I see for tire wear relate to the extra weight of engine/transmission and cornering loads on front tires. Rear tires typically wear pretty evenly if inflation pressures are correct. So, just swapping front to rear will usually be sufficient, but if the tires are relatively new then X-pattern rotation should be fine.

Are you sure there is no local repair alternative? In a case like this I'd consider driving a couple hundred miles to ensure the parts arrive safely. Also, shipping is only one risk for loss; depending upon who is performing the repair parts can also get lost at the rebuilder. You may want to check with them about what their policy is with regard to that...

Maybe try putting a short piece of heater hose between the bellows on the pump nozzle and the fender to allow air to escape from the tank.

Another option might be to drive out the hinge pins and remove a door.

Better than new!

Now, as long as you link your EZ Pass account to a credit/debit card there's no monthly fee and you don't have to maintain the $25 account balance. I have mine linked to my checking account and there's no activity until I drive through a toll plaza. The toll charge usually posts to my checking account in 1 ~ 2 days. It seems to work well and keeps me from paying the ridiculous 'Toll by Mail' charges.

A coupe! Looks very solid, but very dirty...

EZ Pass works fine in FL. Just use the Sun Pass lane!

The best way to do this is with a 350 equipped parts car. Given this Riviera is located somewhere in the EU, that's probably not possible. The best (and least expensive) option in this case is probably to pull the motor and do the rest of the rebuild (i.e., the bottom-end). It sounds like the heads were recently rebuilt already.

Or, maybe someone on the forum who uses Photoshop can edit a picture of one for you...

I've had good luck with a solution of dish detergent and warm water applied with a terrycloth washcloth or towel (not too wet). Vacuum dry with an upholstery wand or shop vac. Use a brush gently on stains or spots. I'll typically do this three times, noting the color of the water collected by the vacuum. Treat any remaining spots depending upon what caused the stain. If the stain is old, however, it most likely won't come completely out, but the fabric will still look better than before. Just go slowly and don't rub any harder than necessary to loosen the grime. Sometimes letting the solution set for a few minutes before rubbing helps.