dibarlaw

Gary is blessed with the place to do this type of work. I still have one side of my garage that is gravel with planks and plywood for a working surface. The side where my 1937 sat on jack stands for 25 years. I like Gary's technique better. This was my view the summer of 2010.

Terry: There are some posted on the Buick Pre War Forum.

Thanks for the posted photos of all of our Buick Buddies Pete. I was sorry we missed going this year but the Mason-Dixon Chapter scheduled a tour to America on Wheels at Allentown.

Mark is right about the Book of parts. I would not been able to do much of the work on my 1925 Standard without one. Until I can find a 1925 Master Book of parts the Standard Book has many mechanical assemblies that are similar and is helpful. I am going thru the front brakes and suspension on my Master and have found many mistakes in the assembly of the components.

dracenroc: You have all the bases covered as to information. One of the problems with the shop manuals of this time period is that there is a lot of assumptions that the service mechanic knows how to do certain tasks. There is quite a bit of "disassemble steering box, inspect for wear, reverse procedure to reassemble". Disregarding what order things come apart, first, second, third steps etc. Also, rarely does it mention any application of Buick specific special service tools. I am sure that there were service bulletins issued during this period specific as to the procedural analysis for a mechanic, but copies are rare. Better descriptions are sometimes found in period MOTOR magazines. And other publications targeted to the general repair mechanic. Larry

Carmover: On our 1925 Standards there is just a set screw on the side of the aluminum control cover at the top of the wheel hub. Loosen that and the button pulls out. Then loosen the set screw that holds the wire. Larry

Wow! You even still have the spring covers. Mine were too bad to save. The place that worked on my 37 was to steam clean the front end of the chassis. The first thing on my list. I had already spent one summer on my back scraping and cleaning from the rear bumper to the X member. I did not want to go thru that again. Well they did not clean any thing on the underside. I am still finding things. The front end lower shafts on my car do not have renewable bushings as later cars do. 1936 design. The arms and shafts were very worn. They replaced tie rod ends and king pins and said all was tight. When I went to have the front end aligned and scraped the muck from the front end parts the lower shafts and arm wear showed up. I have yet to adapt the later arms with bushings to replace them. Larry

I love, "Henry's Made A Lady out of Lizzie" by Harry Resser's 6 Jumping Jacks.

Here are some of mine with the Marvel BD1 Set up. .

This is what the bottom oil pump plate on my 1925 Standard looked like before I lapped it. I think the one on my 1937 was just as bad. On my 1937 I lapped the plate and installed new gears.(1988) 8thousand miles later I am still running at 45 lbs. After an all day hot run it may drop to 30lbs.

Don: This is what I made for my 1925-25 and one for Dave in DC for his 1928-25. They work great. Now I have to make one for my 1925-45.

Gary: Make sure the oil pump bottom plate is lapped flat. Larry

Bob: Will this do. Best regards: Larry

We bought a 1969 Buick LeSaber Convertible in 1973. At the time it showed 26,000 miles or so. I could not understand why it was having (older car problems). I put on new rocker arm assembly at around 40,000. Later I worked as the body man for the Buick dealer where I bought the car. The mechanics laughed when they told me why my 1969 showed so low a mileage. They said the car had over 70,000 when traded in. They rolled it back. Then, the boss's son would always drive a convertible to Florida. He drove mine twice to Florida with the speedometer disconnected. The odometer showed 145,000 when I sold it in 1979. Working in the Body shop of the Lincoln Mercury dealer in our town, I overheard a heated argument with one of the mechanics and the owner. The owner threatening the mechanic with his job if he did not turn back mileage on a 1966 Cadillac destined for the Perryopolis Auto Auction. I remember us driving 4 cars in caravan to the auction. The return car was a new 1974 Mercury Grand Marques. I remember that I drove a 70 Torino. Another car that went was a Gold 1968 Pontiac GTO. On the trip out part of the wiring harness on the Cadillac fell on the exhaust pipe, melted and shut it down. Justice? Ah.. Memories.

I just pulled the red rubber inner tube from the petrified 600X22 Riverside that was the spare on my 1925 Master. Most of it stuck to the inside of the tire. So all I have are shreds. I believe with about 6 patches. I sent a 22" rim to friend Hugh in Texas. The rim and tire I rolled from the Orange Field to our spot in the Chocolate Field. It had a 4.95X22 GENERAL tire probably from the 1930s. Neat tread pattern. When I removed it from the split rim I thought what ever was left inside would be toast. I pulled out a very nice Dayton tube (no patches) which was grey. After I washed it the grey turned to brown. I put a new valve in and it has held air for 2 months!. The flap I pulled out of the Riverside was beautifully made with woven rubber/canvas fabric covered with soft felt facing the tube. This type of flap would be tremendously easier to manipulate than the heavy rubber flaps available now.

pepcak: This is what the finished product looks like. I removed the ball stud, made a split collar to mount in the 3 jaw chuck. I was able to remove about .030 to straighten and true up the diameter. I fit a bushing that I made a press fit over the turned surface. I then set up the arm on the drill press so I could drill out the out of round/tapered hole to a true diameter. I then turned the bushing on the pin to an interference fit for the hole in the arm. I pressed the pin to the arm then had it welded.

Brad: The ball itself is hardly "ovalled" only about .025. When I weld the bushed/finished stud back in I will just index the ball to the least worn area The ball is case hardened. The stud shaft surface turns well. I just have to figure how I will set up the arm to properly line bore it.

Joan and I are planning to be there with the 1937 so we have back seat available.

Thanks for the reply Rod. I was able to remove the ball stud. I was able to chuck up on the ball with a center on the opposite end. With the arm resting on the lathe carriage I was able to slowly turn off the peened over edge. The photos show how it was worn. The largest diameter on the pin is .631 the smallest diameter on the end toward the shoulder is .566. A 90 degree measurement is .610, .044 out of round. The arm bore tapers from .669 to .639. In other words pretty sloppy. Back to the lathe... Larry

Since we have had this spring like weather I thought I would sort out the sloppy steering on the 1925-Master. My friend Pete who trailered it home for me thought that the steering rod adjustment just needed attention. Wrong! The pitman arm ball stud was very loose and had worn out the arm forging. Now oversized /out of round and tapered hole. It appears that when the former owner worked on the car in the 1960s the ball stud was already loose. The outside end was peened over and a lot of center punch marks to hold in place. Has any one else dealt with this issue on their car? According to the master Parts book # 254998, forging #255066 was only used on the 1925 master and 1926 master first type. I also find some looseness in the King Pins Part # 188975. They appear to be the same from 1924 6 cylinder,1925 master up to 1931 80 and 90 series. I know that these are available from Bob's My thoughts on repair would be to grind out he misshapen rear end to remove the stud. Bore out the arm to true the hole. Make a bushing then try to find a compatible hardened ball stud to refit. In the 1925 Book of parts these Ball studs are a replaceable item (at least in the Standard book). The 1931 Master book only shows the complete arm as being available. $3.00! That would still represent several days wages to many who still had a job in 1931.

Doug: The Foundry we are consulting is ... Hildebran Designs, Inc. 386 Center Conway Road Brownfield, Maine 04010 Phone: 207-935-3729 Web: www.hildebrandesigns.com

D. The heater hose strap was attached to this location when I bought the car in 1987. I have seen it attached to the push rod cover also. I grabbed my camera then remembered that I no longer have the car out in my garage (working on my 1925 Master) it is stored a block away. I did a search on ebay for 1937 Buicks for sale as there is usually a lot of photos and video with the ads. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-Buick-Other-Special-Sedan-AACA-Natl-1st-Place-Nice-VIDEO-/162393931392

37: Here are some of mine. There are many more if you do a forum search. If you need any specific location I could take some.

PM sent

After 3 weeks and no other responses I am assuming that there is no interest in getting more people on board for these handles. Hugh and I thought we would try a foundry in Maine since they already had seen what we wanted. They have my originals for both the 1925 Standard and 1925 Master for bidding process. If we are not using this foundry then I would like for them to send my originals back. The more pieces cast would bring the cost down as the cost of the mold is the greatest expense. Unfortunately he only does these in silicon bronze so there is still the plating expense. Now we are still looking at other options. There are a few that will do stainless but they have not gotten back to us. One reason we considered them is that they also have the molds for the floor board thimble and the spark and throttle gears.The problem is that the original owner of the mold has not responded for permission of use. That would make the cost much more reasonable. Otherwise he can make a new mold which to us was much too expensive.