dibarlaw

Us Larry's are some of Dean's many 1915-1918 Buick-McLaughlin members. Larry DiBarry

The headlights you have on the car are with smooth reflectors and the one has an Osgood lens which is a feature for 1924. Your engine and frame #s will tell the tale of which year it should be. The flexible pipe was an addition from the oil filler. Also the bulb primer and filter. The fan is from a 1924 engine. I have the correct one that I am machining a replacement unit with sealed bearings. The coil is the original but should be mounted inside the cowl. My distributor is a newer DELCO that was fitted by the previous owner.

So welcome to the 1925 Buick fraternity! Now we have even more in common. Here is what the 1925-55 is to look like from period photos is Sage green. Of course these are left hand drive examples. I would think it would be a terror to work on the Starter Generator with the steering box on the right!

Hey.! I helped... well maybe only my foot to hold the wrench on while you danced on it. Larry

1927 Standards have nickel plated frame plates instead of sockets and the wood fitted to them. Photo of a 1927-24 Roadster.

I would have to check the Master Parts book but I believe that the pattern for the leather was Whale Grain. The 1922-1923 Sport Roadsters and Touring used Spanish Grain. 1923-54 Roadster below. Photo of restored 1924-55 car with red (pebble grain)?leather.

Yes Terry, where are those timbers your were telling me about?

24 Buick: This is what the sizes are for my Standard. The top for my 1925 Master should be similar to your car. I can get photos of it when needed. And the top mechanism is very similar to both series. The difference being that the rear of your car is narrower since it is a 4 passenger instead of a 5 passenger. The master parts book shows different #s for the rear bow.

24 Buick: I hope they have the top sockets for your car. It has been a real trial to find the correct ones for my 1925 Standard tourer. Any Standard top sockets????

These photos I sent Hugh are of a 1928-54 sport roadster. Today I hope to get some good photos of my friends all original 1927-54. Stay tuned. Larry

24 Buick: Congratulations on your new project. Here is what the Model 55 Sport touring looks like restored. Of course yours is a 55X as it is right hand drive. Wire wheels you have are a plus!

Terry: I told them you sent me and they charged me double!!!

Grant: We with these 1920s Buicks with Marvel carbs all empathize with you. No matter what I have done with mine on my 25 Standard there seems to always be an issue. The way they are set up for the heavier fuel of the time makes them run rich. I am sure others will chime in about this. The "dashpot" design is quite touchy. When I first tried to adjust mine that dashpot spring adjusting knob had no effect. In or out. After reading the service manual on rebuilding the Marvel. (available through "BOBS") I refitted the air vane plate to match the bore of the carb throat. Also there is a tail clearance to the Venturi block. Depending on your model carb. Mine is to be .007 to .009. Of course the manual states that after so many miles this or that should be replaced with new parts from your distributor! Such as the dashpot spring. UNOBTANIUM Parts! The venturi block and air vane are "die cast" some survived in pretty good shape and others are very swollen and cracked. Mine are somewhere in between. I spent several hours filling and sanding on a flat plate to get the clearances correct. Once reassembled and all set up the dashpot brass knob will adjust very nicely and it is very sensitive. Another issue is the high speed jet. To get a leaner discharge, others have suggested to solder the hole at the tip and re-drill with a smaller drill size. I have not done that yet. So mine is still running rich. In the late 1920s or early 1930s if you were having a richness issue your authorized Marvel distributor/supplier would provide different replaceable jets. UNOBTANIUM again. A word on rebuilders... There are a few who will do the job. Reluctantly. When I had my 1937 Special's carb rebuilt by Jim Alexandro in 1988 it was $100 and no winning and complaining about what a terrible carb the Marvels were. I never had a chance to really drive the car much with that rebuilt carb. I picked up another one to have as a spare and had it sent out to Arizona for rebuilding. The estimate was for around $300. When I received it the price was over $650!!! So that is the carb on my 1937 now as I am trying to get some payback miles on it. Anyone who has had a Marvel professionally rebuilt will tell you the cost is somewhere between the $300 and the $650 I mentioned. Best Of Luck: Larry

Hugh: Yes it looks to have been a cobble job on yours. 27donb. Yours looks to be of the correct appearance. All is coming together nicely. This is what they had in my 1925-25, a 1 3/8" bent piece of copper pipe. Photo taken before I bought the car. Photo of an unrestored car but looks to be also made up. Kinks. This one looks very correct with smooth bends.1925-25A The one in my 1925-45 when we worked on it in March 2013. Molten red rubber hose! all heat tubes were open at this time. This is a 1927-54 that had just about everything chrome plated. Manifolds ceramic coated etc. Nice heat pipe! Larry

Any of you 1925 Standard or 1925-27 master owners ever have a source to get the heat pipes bent up? Even though I have all the heat blocked it would be nice to have something that would look correct in the gap between the heat riser and the exhaust damper. I thought that this would be a simple search. Not! I tried all the muffler shops that do custom bending. Also a specialty hot rod shop that does roll cages. None do any thing smaller than 1 7/8" Dia. The heat pipes are 11/4" O.D. Dia. steel tubing. The 1925 standard has a length of 10 1/16" with an 1 15/16" offset. The 1925 Master is 11" long with an 11/16" offset. Terry W even checked on a place near him in Kansas that is providing muffler shell tubing for his 1916. No can do.. I have gone to some of our electrical and plumbing shops to see if they would bend similar sized conduit. So far no one in our area wishes to be bothered.

Grant: The tags should be on the firewall. See photo. The large tag above the oil can should have the model number stamped on it. The small tag near the top has the Fisher Body number information. Larry

A couple of photos of non Ford cars that were there. A nice EMF 30 and an Overland.

2 weeks away. Hope to see you there.

midman: I do not know why I did not look into this thread sooner. But since I spoke to you at the Mason-Dixon meeting and got your email I see what you are up against.

dracenroc: Sorry I only have the ignition side of that car. Here is one of a 1928-58 I took recently. The steering box should be black and the steering column I believe should be nickel plated. I will take more photos when it comes to our car show on June 3rd. Photo of similar 1929 engine on Gerald Petersons car

Brian : I am thrilled for you having such a good trip. Best of luck on the Tennessee trip. I met Skip Seaton and his wife on Friday at the Pre-War swap meet at Luray. Now to finish up some work on the Master so I can get it 50 miles to our Mason Dixon show. Larry

Grant: All items are correct in my opinion. The Buick Script would not have been painted. I have seen some people paint it red and one I saw was yellow. Owners preference. The fellow who re-did my 1925 in the 1970s preferred John Deere green. Hardware store can. Even though in his notes he quotes the price and address of the supplier of the correct Buick olive green. Larry

Terry: I did attend this meet this morning since it was only 2 hours away. I do not believe that there were more than 20 vendors or so. It is a very nice location in our region. I was just disappointed that more did not attend. Mostly model T and A parts. I did find 2 NOS (useable as spares) 600 X 22 tires. And a Zerk grease gun for the tool kit for my 1925 Master. The nice part was having good conversations with some of the vendors on a lovely day in the shadow of the Blue Ridge. All very nice people. Larry

Charlie: I do believe on the Master Sport models that the shift lever and it's base were plated. I nave not had my tower off of my 1925-45 so I can not help in disassembly. The photo of this 1927-54 Sport roadster shows the items plated. But on this car he had many things plated that had not been originally. Also a photo of a 1924-55 sport touring.

BTT