dibarlaw

I had to connect to scanner with a USB cable before it would work. Always worked remotely before. Need to troubleshoot. Here are the Pages from the Delco manual. I hope this helps others with these types of units. Sorry. A little of my scanned cobalt blue still on the glass.

Gary: Spent the afternoon doing as you have done with the Delco choke unit. I made my own gaskets. I have a lot of practice doing stuff on my 1925 Buicks. Thank you for your inspiration for me to do mine. I installed the unit and timed the opening to full. About 5 minutes. The chart in the manual indicates that these units should go to full closed at 50 degrees F. I think the choke butterfly shaft is still binding a bit on mine. I set the link in the center hole as when the unit is at rest it leaves the butterfly open about 1/16". I did use high temp silicone sealer on the unit to manifold gasket. I will see if the choke is closed in the morning. Larry

Gary: I wanted to add the Delco Remy service notes from their service manual of 1/11/37. It goes into quite a bit of detail including disassembly, service and adjustment. Modern technology is not cooperating as the scanner refuses to communicate with the computer today. I will add the images when the computer straightens up and flies right! Going by your photo essay I will do the same with my Delco 2 cylinder model 498H. As I was looking at my unit before I removed it today I noticed that it was hanging up at the choke butterfly. If the air cleaner screw clamp is to tight it will cause some binding. Also the butterfly shaft on my BD-1 is very sloppy which can also cause binding when being pushed or pulled by the choke linkage. I wanted to make some shim bushings to remove some of the shaft play and smooth operation The butterfly can only be removed with the top of the carb removed. I do not want to disturb this as I feel that the top casting has already been tightened down to its limit and the screw mounting bosses are a bit fragile. I also have the Buick service bulletins that show the Marvel BD-1. The 1937 Buick service manual only shows the Stromberg. I will let you know how mine comes out. Larry

26-25 As someone who has chased some of these cars (and not caught any) I understand your concerns. The 1912-35 in the ebay ad looks to be head and shoulders above in condition the model 29. At least it seems that the goal was correct originality of restoration. The several Brass era Buicks I went after were all older to very older restorations being offered in the $20 to 30 thousands range. (2) 1913-model 31s and a 1910 model 10 runabout. The one model 31 I offered $15K. It was not running, cracked peeling paint etc. The person it sold to for around $20K put more money into it to make it a tour car and then lost the transmission the first day out on that tour. (the original seller told me that 2nd gear was a bit touchy.) I saw it for sale at fall Hershey for $28,000. I believe it went to England. The other model 31 I believe still has not sold since they were trying for around $32,000. In need of a top, not running, with much jury rigging on engine and electrical. The vinyl walnut contact paper on the dash made it look nice. The model 10 was 1 1/2 hours away in Virginia and looked very nice. The owner wanted to start at $20,000 and "dicker" up? But, it had not been run in over 5 years at the time and the more I shared information about it the more it appeared to be a compilation of parts. Notice the incorrect front axle and 1911-12 radiator shell. Also incorrect spark and throttle quadrant on steering column. My last contact with the son of the former owner (as he has since passed) was last April 2016. He is concerned that some one will "hot Rod" it!

The evolution of body design also dictates what looks good on a particular vehicle. What may look bizarre on an early to mid 1920s car looks very appropriate on a 1930s car. The 1925 Buick Master Sport Touring was in Sage Green.

I found some darker blue that the former owner had painted the car under the hood lacing. I had the local Nason paint distributor match some paint to do a test panel. A much nicer Blue.

Gary: Great photo essay! I am still bummed that the wheels are not Hampton gray. I thought you would have striped them before putting on the new tires.

Rod: The model 49 was offered in limousine blue which is a beautiful blue that I could live with. This is a 1924-49

The photo of the front of the car shows what looks like 1926-1927 tilt ray headlights. Screw on the bottom of Bezel.

Rod: Yes I would also have problems living with that color! I am still trying to come up with the correct shade of "Cobalt Blue" for my 1925 Master. The former owners son said that his dad painted it what he thought was Cobalt Blue in the 1970s then changed it to the "Robins Egg Blue" that is on it now. Which I can not live with. I have seen 4 different examples all indicating Cobalt Blue and each color is a bit different. Photo of a 1925-45 with original (faded paint). Repainted hood and front fenders. And recently restored 1925 Master coach.

John: It looks more like a salmon color. Not my cup of tea.This is surely the whim of the restorer as they were black. Not to say a lavender metallic 1969 Cadillac is not lovely to look at. Thank you for coming to our 9th annual Mason-Dixon Buick show! Larry

Gary: Thank you for your info on the Meropa product. It is good to know there are other options for the 600W "Steam Cylinder" oil I am still using in my 1925 Buicks. The reason? I still have a 5 gallon can of it and it should keep me for a number of years. Larry

Pretty nice looking model 47 Plain back. Radio delete. Looks to have the "Monster" Marvel Carb (not the BB1 as is on mine.) and heavy duty air cleaner. Rear plate indicates Kentucky.

Dave : Congratulations! It is truly magical when you take that first trouble free ride. Larry

Sounds like the same issue I had with my 1925-25. Ended up losing a clutch disk and the resulting replacement.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1925-Buick-roadster/162537735531?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3D76135719e9094338b7a5aedbf6e4392f%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D8%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D322540534529 The front fenders are better than on my master. Just a little out of my way.

I have had Kendal SAE 140 in the 37 special for 5 years and am ready to change out before the trip to Brookfield. She seems to shift well but as it gets a bit low you can quickly feel the difference. Lube chart says SAE 160 for summer driving.

Gary: For transmission and rear axle summer weight is SAE160.

Gary: That MEROPA 680 is way too heavy for the 37 transmission! It is great in my 1925s that originally specified 600W Steam Cylinder oil. That would be the same for Model As. I don't have my 1937s lube chart in front of me but I believe 140W gear lube is to be used.

These look to be wheels for 21" rims 1926-1927 possibly 1928 cars (crushed aluminum caps). The fellow width and brake drum diameters tell if they are for a master or standard. 14" drum for a master. The spokes are very scared and look like they have many cracks. To me, $1,500 would be for a restored set. You would have that much into restoring them to be functional. On ebay there are many wood spoke wheels that people are asking $400-$500 each and look as if they were pulled from a swamp or burn pile. Some of these ads have been on there for years.

I drove our 1937 Special to our 9th annual Mason-Dixon car show. Around 50 miles. Turned out to be a lovely day. 3 1920s Buicks came to grace our show. A 1924-45 Touring, a 1928-25 Touring,(Dave_B from Silver Spring MD drove it up over 100 miles distant.) and a 1928-58 5 passenger Coupe that won Best Of Show. I tried to get my 1925-25 Beulah to the show but she would not cooperate. Oh well our Huskie Jaffee had a nice ride.

Don: The Delco choke unit I have on my 37 is the same as Gary's since he also has the Marvel carb. Not the 90 degree flexible cable units used with the Stromberg. It had been functioning flawlessly for the 30 years I have owned the car. Recently it has not functioned at all so I will have to look into its adjustment and troubleshooting. I have the 1937 Delco products book with repair info on the unit.

Just saying. When I painted cars back in the 1970s finish sanding after priming in preparation for top-coating was usually no more than a #400 grit paper. That was for a lacquer job. #600 before priming seems to be overkill. I never had sand scratch swelling even with #360. We only used #600 when blending an area or to remove some over-sprayed areas before buffing. Now I hear of people sanding to #1200 or more to get that deep, deep finish. To me life is too short...

Yes. I lusted after this car for a while and at the $35,000 low Ebay offer I was thinking... But I would have to had sold my other 2 cars and would still be short by over half. On several sport tourings I have seen these tops when folded look like a baby buggy top. Unusually high angle. The travel trunk is much taller than what would have been used so the top does not sit lower. I looked at several sport roadsters and touring cars with double spares and the single tire cover (to me) looks very odd. All period photos of cars with double spares I have seen had individual tire covers. As I recall from the video he mentions that he drives it slowly, carefully and not far from home. I would think with what was spent on the restoration one could get some enjoyment out of it. Go on tours (after the trophy collecting period was over). Which is what I hope happens for the next owner.

The heat choke plate would have the red back round color for the sport touring. Other models would be black. The other instruments would have a white face. The photo of the dash I sent has a variety of instruments. The switch looks to be 1927 or 1928. The car I sent photos of was at the 2012 Buick Nationals. Late last year they were selling it. Advertised in the BCA Bugle, Hemmings and on Ebay. I believe the first run through Ebay it only received a $35,000 high bid. I think they were asking $55,000. But there were many photos and a video in the ad. I wished that I had saved it.