26-25Buick

Members
  • Content Count

    126
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

50 Excellent

About 26-25Buick

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/30/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I can vouch for Zepher’s solution. When I travel in Russia, another of the AACA geo-blocked locations, using a VPN connection to a server in an unblocked country works perfectly for me. Hemmings website is equally accessible using this method.
  2. Has anyone tried these on a larger displacement engine than the Model A? Is the valve bore large enough to supply fuel for a 6 or 8 cylinder Buick motor? In my case it’s a low pressure delivery system i.e. no electric fuel pump
  3. I’ve used Bob’s on many occasions and always found them quick to dispatch with reasonably priced postage, even overseas. The parts in the catalog for the early Buicks aren’t always available, but wait a few months and they are back in stock again
  4. Thanks Trinidian. I did see this post however I was hoping that someone might have experience with one and was able to comment on whether the bore is correctly sized for the Buick 6ers as most of the ones I found are specifically for a Ford 4 cylinder
  5. For a little added security I was thinking of adding a fuel shutoff valve/solenoid between the vacuum tank and the Marvel carb in our ‘26 so I don’t run the risk of dumping the contents of the vacuum tank through the carb if something goes wrong. My first thought was when you turn the ignition on it also supplies 6V to the solenoid which opens the fuel valve. Or alternatively also put in a separate normally closed push button momentary switch so I can run the carb dry at end of the day. Looking at Snyder’s catalogue they have a similar set up for Model As and Ts but the valve opening seems quite small, perhaps about 1/8” so I’m not confident it will deliver enough fuel for the 6 cylinder in the Buick. Does anyone use a similar set up and have a recommendation on where and what to buy?
  6. We had the same problem with a new float, valve and seat from Classic and Exotic on the 22 Cad where it doesn’t hold pressure and the whole thing floods in fuel. Went back to the original seat and needle but new float. Now it holds pressure from the hand pump on priming and when running but the moment you stop it floods again until you remove the gas cap from the tank and let the pressure go. I thought it was perhaps a design issue with Johnson updraft on the Cad but perhaps not. Any suggestions?
  7. High humidity will slow solvent evaporation which affectively slows the curing but 80% humidity often isn’t the tipping point as most materials will still work at 85% under the right conditions and good air movement. If additional solvent was added to perhaps improve spray ability because it was hot the problem would only be worse. The heat could also be the reason for the checking as the top part of the paint is drying and contracting faster leaving a crack like appearance. The heat can also cause bubbles in the coating called solvent entrapment. Depending on how thick the coating is you maybe able to sand it out but often you can’t. The recommended curing time is at least 7 days however it will seem hard much earlier. Of course you should always measure the temperature and humidity at the place you’re working rather than using the forecast as your site can be significantly different from the forecast.
  8. An IR temp gun is a great tool for getting a quick measurement, I’m not saying this is what happened here but it is a case of measurer beware. These guns can be easily fooled by anything shiny e.g chrome, stainless steel, even high gloss paint and will give an inaccurate reading. Also the further the gun is held from the surface the greater the area the gun averages the temperature over. Up close you get a pinpoint but the further you move away the larger the area being averaged becomes. If measuring the temperature accurately is important you probably want to look at a touch pyrometer or use a thermocouple with your multimeter.
  9. Hugh Ive been changing my oil every 2 years and it comes out looking pretty clean but I’m only doing about 750-1000 miles in that time. Also we’re pretty lucky as we’re unlikely see temperatures fall much below the 50s and nor do we have high humidity to contend with. I suspect oil change interval is more around how you use the car and not time but as others have pointed out oil changes are relatively cheap insurance so I think I’ll just keep changing it.
  10. Ray For me cold the 26 Standard runs around 30 psi but as it warms up this drops to around 20-25 psi. However before I flattened the oil pump bottom plate and replaced the broken pressure relief spring I was lucky to get 10-15psi. This is on a motor with 75,000 original miles without a major rebuild so a fresher engine may do better. My 26 does have the factory pancake oil filter (one year only design) mounted on the firewall still in circuit. While I doubt it does anything other than drop oil pressure I’m reluctant to turn the shut off valve as it’s pot metal and likely to fall apart in my hand
  11. Nash34 - PM me if you still have early Caddy items to sell
  12. Being one of those overseas buyers asked to use Western Union be aware this isn’t always a flawless transaction either and there is considerable risk for the buyer. As we all know once the money is collected that ends any onus on WU, hence why scammers like it. If the goods are never sent the buyer is out of pocket with no way to recover the money. The other issue I’ve had with WU is I went to transfer money to a seller using the WU online site and my bank instantly froze my accounts and sent me a fraud alert as apparently this is a common hack to steal money from accounts. So be warned. I prefer to use PayPal, despite its poor exchange rate, as it does have the option of paying the seller the full amount with the buyer covering the fees for the seller and at least there is at least a little bit of protection
  13. Hi Any parts for 1912 Cadillacs? Thanks Neil
  14. I have seen it done by welding the seat frame in to the new position (not adjustable). Also you might need to move the foot rest in the back if you need to move it too far.
  15. Thanks all for the advice. It’s really valuable to a first timer. Unfortunately I have to work Thursday and Friday in Tx so they aren’t an option for me this year but I’ll keep this in mind for next time. Do you think it is still worth the side trip?