26-25Buick

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About 26-25Buick

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  • Birthday 09/30/1961

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  1. We had the same problem with a new float, valve and seat from Classic and Exotic on the 22 Cad where it doesn’t hold pressure and the whole thing floods in fuel. Went back to the original seat and needle but new float. Now it holds pressure from the hand pump on priming and when running but the moment you stop it floods again until you remove the gas cap from the tank and let the pressure go. I thought it was perhaps a design issue with Johnson updraft on the Cad but perhaps not. Any suggestions?
  2. High humidity will slow solvent evaporation which affectively slows the curing but 80% humidity often isn’t the tipping point as most materials will still work at 85% under the right conditions and good air movement. If additional solvent was added to perhaps improve spray ability because it was hot the problem would only be worse. The heat could also be the reason for the checking as the top part of the paint is drying and contracting faster leaving a crack like appearance. The heat can also cause bubbles in the coating called solvent entrapment. Depending on how thick the coating is you maybe able to sand it out but often you can’t. The recommended curing time is at least 7 days however it will seem hard much earlier. Of course you should always measure the temperature and humidity at the place you’re working rather than using the forecast as your site can be significantly different from the forecast.
  3. An IR temp gun is a great tool for getting a quick measurement, I’m not saying this is what happened here but it is a case of measurer beware. These guns can be easily fooled by anything shiny e.g chrome, stainless steel, even high gloss paint and will give an inaccurate reading. Also the further the gun is held from the surface the greater the area the gun averages the temperature over. Up close you get a pinpoint but the further you move away the larger the area being averaged becomes. If measuring the temperature accurately is important you probably want to look at a touch pyrometer or use a thermocouple with your multimeter.
  4. Hugh Ive been changing my oil every 2 years and it comes out looking pretty clean but I’m only doing about 750-1000 miles in that time. Also we’re pretty lucky as we’re unlikely see temperatures fall much below the 50s and nor do we have high humidity to contend with. I suspect oil change interval is more around how you use the car and not time but as others have pointed out oil changes are relatively cheap insurance so I think I’ll just keep changing it.
  5. Ray For me cold the 26 Standard runs around 30 psi but as it warms up this drops to around 20-25 psi. However before I flattened the oil pump bottom plate and replaced the broken pressure relief spring I was lucky to get 10-15psi. This is on a motor with 75,000 original miles without a major rebuild so a fresher engine may do better. My 26 does have the factory pancake oil filter (one year only design) mounted on the firewall still in circuit. While I doubt it does anything other than drop oil pressure I’m reluctant to turn the shut off valve as it’s pot metal and likely to fall apart in my hand
  6. Nash34 - PM me if you still have early Caddy items to sell
  7. Being one of those overseas buyers asked to use Western Union be aware this isn’t always a flawless transaction either and there is considerable risk for the buyer. As we all know once the money is collected that ends any onus on WU, hence why scammers like it. If the goods are never sent the buyer is out of pocket with no way to recover the money. The other issue I’ve had with WU is I went to transfer money to a seller using the WU online site and my bank instantly froze my accounts and sent me a fraud alert as apparently this is a common hack to steal money from accounts. So be warned. I prefer to use PayPal, despite its poor exchange rate, as it does have the option of paying the seller the full amount with the buyer covering the fees for the seller and at least there is at least a little bit of protection
  8. Hi Any parts for 1912 Cadillacs? Thanks Neil
  9. I have seen it done by welding the seat frame in to the new position (not adjustable). Also you might need to move the foot rest in the back if you need to move it too far.
  10. Thanks all for the advice. It’s really valuable to a first timer. Unfortunately I have to work Thursday and Friday in Tx so they aren’t an option for me this year but I’ll keep this in mind for next time. Do you think it is still worth the side trip?
  11. I’m a first time visitor to Chickasha. The plan is to arrive mid-morning Saturday. Looking for parts for my 1912 Cadillac project.
  12. Eric The reflectors have a thin coat of silver which is very easy to scratch. I suggest if you really have to, just wash them with a little warm water and soap and gently dry them but don’t rub them. I’d be leaving the cleaning of those to the lucky new owner
  13. Welcome Ejedmo5. What you have is not a set of headlights but actually cowl lights for a Cadillac from 1912 or a little later. A fairly common part that people managed to salvage off of these cars. In fact you’ll find some others on eBay currently. A little hard to tell how complete yours are because on first look they look like someone may have removed the original socket from them to convert it to another light. The brackets are correct for that period Cadillac light. My guess, and it would depend how many scratches and dents are in them and how quickly you want them sold but fair asking is around $250-300 for an average quality pair. Yours having been modified so I suspect they might sit to the bottom end but others may have a different opinion.
  14. I agree keep the nozzle moving and the the pressure down and there shouldn’t be a problem regardless of the media type. And yes there will be some heat generated, the energy from the media hitting the surface has to go somewhere but by moving the nozzle it never gets excessive. High pressure water blasting also heats the surface for exactly the same reason. A couple of other pointers if you’re doing the blasting at home make sure you thoroughly clean all oil & grease off of the car where you’re blasting before you start. Blast cleaning will not remove it but will push it in to the surface gving you poor paint adhesion. Don’t be tempted to recycle your grit to save a few bucks either as it’ll be full of rust and old paint and the last thing you want to do is embed these contaminates back in to the surface you just cleaned. Blast shops can recycle grit as they have the equipment to remove the contaminates. Also if there is any chance there is road salt present be extra vigilant about washing before blasting. Unfortunately even if you buy new media it’s not always clean. We’ve seen batches of “new” garnet contaminated with clay and a Black Beauty substitute with a high salt content. Checking for clay and rubbish is an easy test. Take some media and put it in a pill bottle with some water and give it a shake and see what settles out. The water should be pretty clear after about 5 mins. Try and see what you get.
  15. Bob, As an overseas buyer on eBay, I always look at the ships to information rather than what’s in the title or the description because the seller has to have their settings correct in the listing for the item to allow me to bid on or buy an item. However I’m lucky to have friends in the States that will accept goods on my behalf if the seller won’t post to Australia and there are freight forwarders so there are work arounds but I agree the Global Shipping option by eBay is not a good one. Of course on many occasions our items are purchased from people and businesses rather than eBay listings so this isn’t a consideration. Most of our purchases come via USPS and the minimum postage for even the smallest parcel is about USD45 which for us you have to add another 25-30% for the exchange rate. So we have to factor this in when we bid or make an offer. Time wise it’s a 7-10 day wait for air freight to a capital city and I would guess even more to a more remote location. I know it is frustrating but I am an advocate of tracking as we have watched items which were mailed to Australia end up in Austria, only to be returned to sender.