Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

52 Excellent

About 26-25Buick

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/30/1961

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Is it a left hand drive or right hand drive car? I think you’ll find they’re different as the right hand drive cars have the rod running behind the motor to the the right hand side to join the pedal.
  2. I’m running a 1927 distributor in my 1926 Buick Standard. As Hidden Hunter said the 1927 distributor is steel bodied and not pot metal like the 1926 ones. The other advantage is the points for the 1927 are more readily available.
  3. That’s correct Larry, it’s part of suburban Sydney, Australia. This gentleman has listed quite a few parts for early Buicks over the years but this was something I hadn’t seen elsewhere, so I thought it might be of interest to the group.
  4. Not mine but may be of interest to someone here https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/matraville/other-parts-accessories/1912-to-1918-buick-engine-valve-remover/1250440060
  5. Mark, it would depend a lot on their history as the early coils were air cooled rather than sitting in an oil bath. As you know this allowed corrosion and moisture in and caused them to short out or the windings to breakdown. Having said that I’m running the original coil in my 26 Buick without a problem and have a couple of 1912 Cadillac coils that test perfectly, in terms of resistance so I expect them to work, once I get the car restored. So the good ones are out there and I’d follow Bloo’s advise and swap back to original. To be honest I’ve had far more trouble with condensers than coil
  6. 26-25Buick

    Wheel Swap

    Would depend on the rim offset and whether that brought it too close to other parts under the car. If the extra 1/2” was outboard probably ok but inboard and you may risk snagging the suspension when on full steering lock or perhaps placing yourself too close to the brake lines.
  7. Yes common in Australia too. Made worse by the people having stopped 3 car lengths back inching forward while the light is red. I wonder if it’s just coincidence that there is so many autos on the road now and fewer people who have driven stick. I’m pretty sure you’d be cured of the habit pretty quickly if it meant slipping the clutch each time.
  8. I think nickelroadster is spot on. This is probably an old acrylic or enamel that’s just continued to harden over time and there has been an adhesion failure at the primer. Unfortunately a more definitive answer will be hard as paint failures can be hard to diagnose unless you’re standing in front of them. I’ll add another cause though as it could equally be the primer had gone past the overcoat window before the top coat was applied and there wasn’t a good bond. Over the years the top coat got harder and stress in the paint pulled it away. Given the cracks in the paint it has been stressed at
  9. I can vouch for Zepher’s solution. When I travel in Russia, another of the AACA geo-blocked locations, using a VPN connection to a server in an unblocked country works perfectly for me. Hemmings website is equally accessible using this method.
  10. Has anyone tried these on a larger displacement engine than the Model A? Is the valve bore large enough to supply fuel for a 6 or 8 cylinder Buick motor? In my case it’s a low pressure delivery system i.e. no electric fuel pump
  11. I’ve used Bob’s on many occasions and always found them quick to dispatch with reasonably priced postage, even overseas. The parts in the catalog for the early Buicks aren’t always available, but wait a few months and they are back in stock again
  12. Thanks Trinidian. I did see this post however I was hoping that someone might have experience with one and was able to comment on whether the bore is correctly sized for the Buick 6ers as most of the ones I found are specifically for a Ford 4 cylinder
  13. For a little added security I was thinking of adding a fuel shutoff valve/solenoid between the vacuum tank and the Marvel carb in our ‘26 so I don’t run the risk of dumping the contents of the vacuum tank through the carb if something goes wrong. My first thought was when you turn the ignition on it also supplies 6V to the solenoid which opens the fuel valve. Or alternatively also put in a separate normally closed push button momentary switch so I can run the carb dry at end of the day. Looking at Snyder’s catalogue they have a similar set up for Model As and Ts but the valve opening seem
  14. We had the same problem with a new float, valve and seat from Classic and Exotic on the 22 Cad where it doesn’t hold pressure and the whole thing floods in fuel. Went back to the original seat and needle but new float. Now it holds pressure from the hand pump on priming and when running but the moment you stop it floods again until you remove the gas cap from the tank and let the pressure go. I thought it was perhaps a design issue with Johnson updraft on the Cad but perhaps not. Any suggestions?
  15. High humidity will slow solvent evaporation which affectively slows the curing but 80% humidity often isn’t the tipping point as most materials will still work at 85% under the right conditions and good air movement. If additional solvent was added to perhaps improve spray ability because it was hot the problem would only be worse. The heat could also be the reason for the checking as the top part of the paint is drying and contracting faster leaving a crack like appearance. The heat can also cause bubbles in the coating called solvent entrapment. Depending on how thick the coating
  • Create New...