dibarlaw

Gary: If you are using a remote/hidden starter switch that that would be fine. But if you are planning on using the original vacuum accelerator starter system the hand throttle is important. Many a time if you stall on a hill and the parking brake will not hold and you start drifting back..... Foot on the brake, pull out the throttle which will engage the starter. Back in business. A real life saver... Ask me how I know! Larry

Ron: That is what mine looks like for my 25-25. There will always be a bit of variation. The Master is probably longer. I can't compare since the standard engine is in NY at this time. (See my post starting up the "1925 Saga continues".) I had to re-solder the brass tubing to the fitting at the back of the block. Then make a new gasket. It took a bit of work to get that tube to connect into the Y fitting with out stripping the threads. The tough item is the correct style of the compression fitting if a new tube is needed. If the old compression fitting is in good shape it will probably seal well. There fittings cannot be removed from the tubing as it cuts a groove into the tube when it is first tightened. Note in my posts about the 3/16" tubing from the head to the rocker shaft. Part #172929. Shown in Hugh's parts book photo without the 2 compression fittings Part #152121.

C Carl: I had asked about photos of the 1924 and 1932 Buicks when he posted on the Buick forum. Since imperial62 said he would take them both. I have asked him. As to the wood in these cars. My 1925-25 Standard touring had ash in the vertical members of the doors and the strike posts. The top of the door stiles were maple.

Sorry Gary, but I thought that there was some material left on the back of my rear frame. Just the burlap like side covering the wheel wells and sides. I took my camera but the 2 batteries must have fallen out when I replaced my SD card. Had a nice run with the Huskie on a lovely fall day anyway!

Gary: There are remnants of the burlap fabric still draped from the frame of the panel in back of the rear seat on my 37. (The current working space you now have). The car is stored 3 blocks away and I will try to get a photo tomorrow. Larry

Marv: Here are photos of the roller lifter and sleeve from a 1924 6 cylinder engine. Pretty much the same design back into the early teens.

Hugh: I thought about that also about the battery access from the other side. I turned the floor board around but it is does not match up on that side. Still a few things to attend to on the drivers side. Transmission check, clutch adjustment. Besides, the direct access to our batteries requires the shift tower board to be lifted. It appears on my board the hole was bored at a bit of an angle to accommodate the sweep of the thimble.

Imperial62 When you get the cars we still would like to see photos of them.

It should be interesting how Nenad will address the top construction as the body appears to be a cut down sport coupe. Although the body bead matches the open cars. This may be a later body. The roadsters had a gradual curve around the body where the top is attached. Photos of a 1924-44. Also a 1924-54 Sport Roadster on the 2016 VMCCA Nickel tour.

1926 Buick coach (not mine) https://york.craigslist.org/cto/d/1926-buick-2dr/6354861025.html It looks to have been fixed up in the 60s or 70s with a different paint job.

Dave: I believe it is a Regal.

Thanks Mark: I have been contacting John B for over 5 years and he said he could not make me a set. Then he said he would look in his collection of old sockets stored in trailers for a match. I call him every so often to see if he has had any luck yet. Rick Kesselring here in Chambersburg said he could do the bows. I saw about 10 sets at Hershey but only one was close and still would have to be cut down.

Gary: I know on my 37 the spare tire (bias 6.50 X 16 WW) is a snug fit without any liner or mat under the wooden shelf. I was not aware that there was a trunk mat under the tire. I assumed that it was only on the floor above. Not much left of my original trunk side lining. The pattern is more like a burlap weave.

John: Here is what the thimble looks like installed and the floor board in place.

Wanted a set of top sockets /bows for my 1925-25 Buick Standard touring. Larry DiBarry Chambersburg PA. 717-263-3804

Leif: I will also email the photos to you as I believe this is beyond the scope of the original post. I have a WEED bumper on my Master. There were probably 50 accessory bumper manufactures at the time with each one having a different mounting design.

Another factor on the fuel mileage if you consider evaporation. Unless you are driving the car regularly and keep the tank pretty full there is more evaporation with modern fuel. Modern closed systems avoid evaporative losses. I was surprised that when I put 5 gallons in a dry tank of my 1925 Buick in December. I tried to start it and work on the engine a bit. At most it ran for only about 10 minutes, twice, before I removed the carb to rebuild. I did not get back to it until the end of January. The tank had about a 1/2 gallon left when I drained it to do other work. I do the same procedure as yours with my 1937-41 as I had gone through the sending unit before installing. All seemed to work well until our trip to South Bend in 2013. Somewhere in northern Ohio it seemed that we were going a lot farther than normal and the tank gage still showed 1/4 full. When we found a gas station I put in 17 Gallons. Gage still showed 1/4 full! I still have not gotten around to pulling the tank to get at the sending unit. Doing mileage/fill calculations our trip from South Bend average was 16 MPG! Our trip to Brookfield at best was 14 MPG. Keeping speed below 55 mph. Then when the #8 cylinder was shut down by a hammered closed plug gap (I still need to investigate this as that cylinder is now down to 60#) more like 10 MPG. I did change out the plug for the final 135 mile leg of the trip home.

I just received my 2 thimbles from Gregg Lange who has reproduced some Buick items. Marvel carb floats, Robe rails, Foot rest ends and such. They came out great! I bought 2 for my Master and Standard touring cars. These are specified for just about all open Buicks from 1912-1925. The originals were die cast and most crumbled away over the years. Gregg had them made in aluminum and brass. This is what I did to polish them up before I installed the one in the Master since there was still the hole in the board with a remnant of the original. I was able to chuck it up carefully in a 4 jaw chuck on my 10" South Bend lathe. Started with some filing, then #100 emery cloth, #240 down to # 600 W/D abrasive and some WD40. Final polish with some Simichrome polish. This took about a half hour. I cut out the linoleum covering the hole and had to use a 1/2 round file a bit to match the contour of the new part. I was able to use the original screw hole! Thank you Gregg for your service to the hobby!

Leif: I can get photos of the brackets on my Master if you like.

Hugh: I would go by what the others have said. There was no evidence of leakage on my crank. My leakage was at the pulley. I did get a lip seal for it (I believe you were part of the posts on how we changed these out) but I still kept some of the felt inside the new lip seal case for insurance. I would have to search for the NAPA seal #. I had to turn a few thousands off of the case to press fit into the cover bore. No leaks since I installed it. Of course all was for naught since all is coming apart for the engine work. I will have to see who originally posted these photos. These photos are when I changed mine. I was able to do it with out removing the radiator or timing cover. Fitting felt into lip seal case. Cleaned bore. Still had to clean threads. New Seal with assortment of collars/washers to draw the seal into the bore. Drawing in with a touch of sealer on the outside of the seal. Final fit to below the surface.

I will take them. p m sent. Larry

iThis car had a great feature article in the Bugle several years ago. September 2010 " Buicks of 1925".

Looks like you are experiencing "BUICK BLISS"! To me your McLaughlin is the most beautiful 1925 Buick there is. Both of my 25s may be down till sometime in the spring. I hate not driving my Buicks.

Yes I agree with Imperial62 about a rare car. It looks to be a model 54 Sport Roadster if the plated windshield frame and cowl lights are to be trusted for ID. But the way the body sags and the plywood seen through the "hole" of the golf door opening, there may not be any useable wood left. Photos of a friends one family owned, original 1927-54.

Gary: I may hazard a guess as my car is 2 blocks away. On the drivers side would be the routing of the antenna cable from the radio to the running boards. The cable then routs under the body to the opposite side. Check the radio information I posted and I think it may show this. Larry