dibarlaw

I did adapt the timing cover seal to a lip seal. Since I used the original sheet metal cover to hide things I also left some of the felt inside since the shaft has a spiral groove cut on it. A little insurance. No leaks for years after that. Of course now the engine is still at the shop in Cazanovia NY. No word on progress to report.

Looking better all the time Gary!! My car is stored 3 blocks away or I could get a better photo of the gas cap. The reason it sits so low was that my son decided to "help" me one day and take the gas tank out. We did not realize at the time that the filler neck unscrewed from the elbow. He tore the elbow off at the tank. When the radiator shop cleaned my tank they soldered it not quite back where it belongs. I had to cut down the original grommet for the cap to close and vent. Also I believe that the cars were assembled with the fuel tank in the frame before the body drop and fenders attached. My cap is painted body color. Chipped paint reveals the original CORRECT HAMPTON GREY..(Ok ...your car looks beautiful in BLACK!) I believe I do have a period correct locking gas cap chrome plated that is the same size. While I was looking at this photo reminded me to ask... do you have the sheet metal gravel deflector that mounts on the rear bumper? I have one that still needs straightened to mount on mine. Larry

A quick assessment tells me it is a 1914 B37. Full size 5 passenger touring car. Most of the price comments are in the ball park. The redish color on the body tells me that this was probably a 1950s fix up and run for a while project. I offered $15,000 for a running /driving one 5 years ago. The sellers wanted $17,500 even though the radiator was junk and needed a total new one made. This one looks to at least have some upholstery left. The one I offered on did not have enough leather left to make a pair of gloves. It also had several bad wheels that needed remade. 1914 B37 comparison to B55 Touring cars On the other end of the spectrum there was a beautiful example sold by Marty Roth that was offered to me. But way out of my price range.

I made mine from 1 1/2" Chrome plated brass sink drain tubing.

Since none of our batteries are seen up through 1937 and according to how cars are actually judged they are not seen. The 1938 placed the battery in the engine compartment. The only way one can actually see what is under our cars is to lay on ones back. We mainly use the down on one knee rule. Having said that I bought mine both at Family Farm Center. Most of these and many other brands are made near me by the huge DEKA Battery plant near Kutztown PA. So unless you pull up the floor boards or the seat and cover as is the case on my 1937 no one can tell. Also most of the teens and 20s batteries were wooden cased. Late 20s started the hard rubber/tar top battery construction which were renewable by changing out the plates. Many 1920s 6 volt car batteries did double duty to power the tube filaments in family radio in the evening. Families that had the resources would buy a "TUNGAR" rectifier/battery charger to keep everything charged up. Otherwise a trip to the local Radio Shop or Garage for a charge. Larry

Gary : My charge indicator does jump a bit also. It does not bother me as I have not had a low battery condition since I brought it home September 2012 from the "Restoration Shop"?. Since we have the same Marvel carb and Delco choke set up The starting issues are similar. I did not start the car for a month in storage. I usually remove the brass screw on the left facing side of the carb and with a squirt oil can of gasoline to prime it. It still take a bit of cranking when it has been sitting that long.

According to the Master Parts Book the 1925 models 54 and 55 are trimmed in Green Walrus Grain leather. The dashboard and door check strap. The seats are a sage green leather. The door panels and pockets are also noted as sage green. The model 44 roadster would be trimmed in black leather with painted dash. The door check straps for the other open models 24,25, 44, 45, and 49 are to be black harness leather. The photo of the 1925-55 in the recent Old Cars article shows a wood veneer dash it is to be the green Walrus grain leather.

Well, Terry and Barbra, a Merry Christmas to you and all the rest of our Buick Buddies from some Pennsylvania (gas pump) "Hosers".

Kyle: From your photo it looks to be a 1926-27 shell with the lacing held on by rivets instead of lacing through the slots as Hugh has shown. Point of reference ... If your car had an accident say in 1930 and you went to your Buick dealer for a replacement factory shell he would have sold you a shell for a 1926 or 1927 as 1925-1925 style was no longer available. I have seen many 1924 and 1925 Master and Standard Buicks with later style shells. Fitment of the radiator shroud to the newer shell can be problematic since some of the mounting holes do not quite line up. My 1925 Master has the correct shell but has scabby brazed patches on the bottom and was painted black. Also the top was misshapen when they tried to install the reworked radiator core. I picked up a complete 1924 6 cyl radiator that is not as badly rusted on the bottom but someone cut out some of the lacing flange. So even to put that shell into plate-able shape it would require extensive welding. Larry

I was unable to find my 1937 color chip sheet but I feel that the green is a 37 color. The catalog illustration Gary uses in his avatar would have been in that shade. Although the printed catalogs color representations are not even close at best.

Kyle: Great work on your wood. We love your enthusiasm for this type of work. I also know of several Master series roadsters out there in need of wood. Our problems are that some of these folks have been picking away at redoing the wood for many years and have lost interest by lack of progress. Maybe by doing CNC wood components from yours these abandoned projects may come alive again Keep up the great work. Larry

Tough question. I just saw a 1957 episode of Leave it to Beaver. Ward (Beaver's Father) was driving a new 1957 Ford (sans outside mirrors). Watching period movies from the 30s and 40s almost never seeing a side view mirror. Always seeing the driver hanging out the window looking to make a back-up. On my 37 There was not a side view mirror when I bought it. I tried the "PEEP" mirrors which mount above the vent window. They are more than useless for our cars. I found a good compromise on a round mirror for both sides which still clamps on the door edge. They still do rub the door opening. I could not have negotiated the hate full traffic around Chicago without them. I like the hinge pin type. Too expensive for me but I think they look great.

Good question Brian. I know on the 1925-45 the fronts are pretty "roached". Any direction to a supplier out there?

Looking at a period new car photo you can see that the radiator is a bright finish(nothing looks black). These were finished as Hugh has indicated.

Hidden_hunter: Sorry you missed us as we are 28 miles east at Chambersburg.

Wilbur: I have a 3 note Sparton that I am working on. I found this pamphlet on the net. My experience has had me clean and re-oil the cam mechanism. I made new gaskets for the air chamber from tracing cloth. I still have to make a new bearing for the electric motor since it is pretty worn. It causes some chatter and the note sound is not very pure. They are somewhat touchy to adjust. Mine is the "$35 Bucks" tune. Check out some u tube videos of "I'm' simply wild about horns on automobiles that go Ta, Ta, Ta, Ta." Or "Eddie Cantors Auto Song".

Rod: Sorry. I was not checking on this thread. I just saw it tonight. The top on my 1925-45 is..... Total length in up position 94 3/4". Measured with top fabric. Front header bow 53 1/2", 2nd bow 56 1/4", 3rd bow 57 1/4" and rear bow 59 1/4" all bows measured where the bows enter the sockets with out top material. The cut down top on my 1925-25 has all the bows the same width front to back. It should also taper out from front to rear. I hope this helps: Larry

The hand crank is indispensable for timing the engine/setting the points. I have started my 1925-25 4 or 5 times with the hand crank just to show some folks at our car show. Each time it only took a half turn.

Gary: I know that in an old "Torque Tube " newsletter there was an article on modifying the trunk light to operate as an extra brake light. Changing the socket to a double filament and pig tailing off of a tail light. I never got around to it but I still want to do it. As an addendum to my wiring harness account to Dave. I chose the RI harness as to how it would look and function as original. The extra loom and wires they added for me to have turn signals cancelled that out. Larry

Our 1925-45 "REMLEY" in soft focus. Our 1925-25 "Beulah" with wife Joan driving.

Dave : The RI harness was very nice. I had a local shop install it while they were doing some work to get my 37 into driver condition. On my to do list for them was a wiring harness and they suggested RI. Also on the list was to remove the added 1950s turn signal lights and get the harness with the extra wires to provide for turn signals incorporated into the parking lights and brake/tail lights. They had promised to have the car ready to drive to the 2012 Buick Nationals in NC. After the first few monthly visits to their shop we saw that nothing was getting done and the owner said that they would not be able to get the car ready for the Nationals. He then said that it was a good Idea to get a new wiring harness. I reminded him that this was on my original list. The statement was that no way could they get the car done on time since RI would need at least a months lead time to make up the harness. I called RI and they said that they had the harness in stock. 2 months after the NC meet (that I was supposed to be able to drive to) they were still about 1/2 done. They had the harness installed, BUT, they put the wrong one in without the extra wiring for the turn signals. (they did take care of it by installing extra outside wiring and loom at an extra $300+). So, after a lot of runaround, things not done on the list, double cost estimates etc. I had to get the car back and end this relationship. When we got the car back I drove it a total of 2 miles when it quit at the busiest intersection at rush hour. I had to push it to the side of the road and tow it home. What I found was that even though they had installed a new harness they did not clean any connections and there were several incorrectly made connections. I redid all the connections and I have had no electrical issues since. By the way .. After they said that they could not meet their deadline the owner told me it was foolish of me to expect to drive my car to the Buick Meet 350 miles away. After I had repaired their work we have since driven the car to the 2013 South Bend meet 1,750 mile round trip. To Nashville TN. close to 1,900 miles and lastly to Brookfield WI at 1,915 miles including touring.

They are also different between series. I sold a (fit a Standard) crank to the fellow who bought the 1922-45 at Hershey and he had to bore out the hole to fit his. I have one each of my cars, Master and Standard. The Standard having a slightly smaller bore.

I always remember the end day November 11th as that was my grandfathers birthday. Except he was born Nov.11, 1897. The other Larry

Bloo: The switch is out of my 1937-41. I did install a new wiring harness from Road Island Wiring.

Gary : I did the same re-work on the switch including complete disassembly and cleaning all contacts and building up the burned micarda insulation material. My lights do the same as yours so I believe that Matt may be correct about the dimmer switch. Larry