dibarlaw

Another factor on the fuel mileage if you consider evaporation. Unless you are driving the car regularly and keep the tank pretty full there is more evaporation with modern fuel. Modern closed systems avoid evaporative losses. I was surprised that when I put 5 gallons in a dry tank of my 1925 Buick in December. I tried to start it and work on the engine a bit. At most it ran for only about 10 minutes, twice, before I removed the carb to rebuild. I did not get back to it until the end of January. The tank had about a 1/2 gallon left when I drained it to do other work. I do the same procedure as yours with my 1937-41 as I had gone through the sending unit before installing. All seemed to work well until our trip to South Bend in 2013. Somewhere in northern Ohio it seemed that we were going a lot farther than normal and the tank gage still showed 1/4 full. When we found a gas station I put in 17 Gallons. Gage still showed 1/4 full! I still have not gotten around to pulling the tank to get at the sending unit. Doing mileage/fill calculations our trip from South Bend average was 16 MPG! Our trip to Brookfield at best was 14 MPG. Keeping speed below 55 mph. Then when the #8 cylinder was shut down by a hammered closed plug gap (I still need to investigate this as that cylinder is now down to 60#) more like 10 MPG. I did change out the plug for the final 135 mile leg of the trip home.

I just received my 2 thimbles from Gregg Lange who has reproduced some Buick items. Marvel carb floats, Robe rails, Foot rest ends and such. They came out great! I bought 2 for my Master and Standard touring cars. These are specified for just about all open Buicks from 1912-1925. The originals were die cast and most crumbled away over the years. Gregg had them made in aluminum and brass. This is what I did to polish them up before I installed the one in the Master since there was still the hole in the board with a remnant of the original. I was able to chuck it up carefully in a 4 jaw chuck on my 10" South Bend lathe. Started with some filing, then #100 emery cloth, #240 down to # 600 W/D abrasive and some WD40. Final polish with some Simichrome polish. This took about a half hour. I cut out the linoleum covering the hole and had to use a 1/2 round file a bit to match the contour of the new part. I was able to use the original screw hole! Thank you Gregg for your service to the hobby!

Leif: I can get photos of the brackets on my Master if you like.

Hugh: I would go by what the others have said. There was no evidence of leakage on my crank. My leakage was at the pulley. I did get a lip seal for it (I believe you were part of the posts on how we changed these out) but I still kept some of the felt inside the new lip seal case for insurance. I would have to search for the NAPA seal #. I had to turn a few thousands off of the case to press fit into the cover bore. No leaks since I installed it. Of course all was for naught since all is coming apart for the engine work. I will have to see who originally posted these photos. These photos are when I changed mine. I was able to do it with out removing the radiator or timing cover. Fitting felt into lip seal case. Cleaned bore. Still had to clean threads. New Seal with assortment of collars/washers to draw the seal into the bore. Drawing in with a touch of sealer on the outside of the seal. Final fit to below the surface.

I will take them. p m sent. Larry

iThis car had a great feature article in the Bugle several years ago. September 2010 " Buicks of 1925".

Looks like you are experiencing "BUICK BLISS"! To me your McLaughlin is the most beautiful 1925 Buick there is. Both of my 25s may be down till sometime in the spring. I hate not driving my Buicks.

Yes I agree with Imperial62 about a rare car. It looks to be a model 54 Sport Roadster if the plated windshield frame and cowl lights are to be trusted for ID. But the way the body sags and the plywood seen through the "hole" of the golf door opening, there may not be any useable wood left. Photos of a friends one family owned, original 1927-54.

Gary: I may hazard a guess as my car is 2 blocks away. On the drivers side would be the routing of the antenna cable from the radio to the running boards. The cable then routs under the body to the opposite side. Check the radio information I posted and I think it may show this. Larry

The Motorcraft 3076 is available through most auto parts stores. That is what I am running in both the 1925 Standard and Master. I use a 90 degree boot on them and they fit under the cover. Larry

They are compatible except they are too tall to fit under the spark plug cover. The Champion "6" was what originally was specified with a longer reach than the W18. The original equipment AC Titan of the period has the same long reach with a 7/8:" Hex. The only other 7/8 " Thread plug available now is a Motorcraft 3076. The longer reach 3077 has been discontinued.

Gary : My 37 had no "window sweeps" just small rubber blocks on both the door and garnish moldings to reduce shock when the door is closed. Of course after the flocking of the channel wore away and the rubber turned to concrete. Result, broken window. I used the Fisher Body manual as a guide and was successful. When I replaced my channels and glass in the left rear door it did take a good deal of finessing to get smooth bends at the corners. The channels on mine did not go very far down until there was a rubber (now concrete) channel with a flocked surface. This had to be broken out. The new channel fits right into these body channels. It does make for a tricky threading job down through the door. I have not attempted my front windows as that would require the vent window glass, gaskets and then frame to be re chromed. With my 1925 Standard engine getting rebuilt. The 1925 master engine in a questionable state and the low # 8 cylinder in my 1937, monies are needed elsewhere.

Just for reference. This mostly complete 1922-45 sold at Hershey this past week for $2,500. And we have a new BCA member! Top sockets are sitting on the trailer behind the car. Carter Carb and old style 6V fuel pump. It was still on the road in 1952,

Glad you got home safely from Hershey. We did have a great time. Thanks for the info. This is what I can forward to Reeve's. After you left the show field I talked with John Fesser as he had the 1928 in HPOF.

Thanks Brad: This is all good to know as we are into this experience. I should hear from Reeve's today.

Marathon Man: I spoke to George Preston Dorris III about this thread several days ago about the building in question and he confirmed that the building in question was his great uncles garage/dealership. I believe that solicited his added information in the previous posts. George is running for the board of directors of the HCCA. He has several St Louis one cylinder cars and 2 brass era Dorris cars. My wife and I visited the Marathon complex several years ago. I was just able to see the Marathon auto collection through the windows. As a former machinist and lover of early machinery I applaud your efforts. We were on tour in our 1937 Buick with the 1936-38 Buick club the previous September and wished that we had planned to take the group there. Larry

25 Buick: This is what the deluxe cap for Sport touring/roadster would have looked like. Very ornate with scroll work on the "dog bone". At that time they were called "dumbbell"l caps. .

Sorry to say that the spare ones I have are somewhat rough. The roller lifters are also scored. The machine shop can make new hardened rollers and pins. It seems as if there were any good parts left from this 1924 spare engine I got when I bought my Master they went into the 1925 engine. Larry

Leif : My concern will be the offset pin bore. In the Buick Bugle Tips and Techniques book from old Bugle articles there was an article about "1925 Standard Piston Swap" by Frank Burgoyne from Maryland. I met him at a BOOM Buick meet back in 1988 or 89. At that time he was showing his 1911 Buick. My 1925 was over 20 years in the future. As his article starts he indicates that the 25 engine was going to be too costly to rebuild and then goes into a replacement 1926 engine (3 1/8" Bore) that he installs instead. Then he says that he finds Jeep Pistons that he orders from Montgomery Ward or Sears. (remember when you could order auto /truck parts from them?) So the article has nothing to do with a 1925 engine (3" bore) to piston swap after all. The 1925-25 that he restored, from what I understand, was donated to a local Maryland Museum.

Matt: So good to see that you are nearing completion. I did admirer your car at the Buick Anniversary meet last year. In your first photo of this post I see my 1925 Standard touring off to the right in the back round below the screen. Every so often someone posts a photo of the meet that has a hint of my car in it. Thanks: Larry

Hugh: Leave them alone. You are obsessing again.....

Hugh: I would say yes to all your questions. I did mention that the pistons had an offset pin bore. They were doing the sourcing for aluminum pistons. Patrick Reeve said his first impression is that they will go .020 oversize on my engine. The largest wear spot near the top of one cylinder was 3.012.

Rod: Outer spring was $15.94. Inner was $9.20 each. Total was $279 with the federal express at $22.99! Funny that in 1931 the Master parts book quotes prices at, outer at 15 cents and inners at 10 cents each. I could see the rate of inflation at least 10 times more but not 100 times. Valves listed at $1.25 each for the Standard. I believe EGGE is asking $22.00 each for them. And those prices are what was charged the customer. So profit was made all down the line. Even if only a penny at a time. But in 1931 15 cents was the cost of lunch.

Received the valve springs from EGGE. Master parts book has the same part # for both Standard and Master. The Master has an inner spring also. I bought them to have for the Master when the time comes. I gave my local guy the springs yesterday so hopefully he will get started on the head. No word from Cazinovia yet.

My friends totally original 1927-54 sport roadster showing the scuff bars with the rolled edge toward the top.