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jeff

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  1. I agree with the 6.3 volts for a fully charged battery, engine off. (theoretical 2.1 volts per cell, I believe) But, remember, this does not indicate state of charge, which is more of a capacity thing. Make sure the battery is fully charged before analyzing the voltage that the regulator is providing. It could be that the battery is "sinking" a lot of current due to low charge, and 6.5V is the best your generator can provide at that current level. Later, with a full charge, you may see a bit more voltage. I also agree that with everything set correctly, you should have somethi
  2. Thanks for the feedback! Ben, a 1" heater hose probably has a 1/2 or 5/8 ID. Agree? If so, that lines up pretty closely with the equivalent orifice diameter of the closed bypass valve, which is 1/2 inch. (it has an annular clearance when closed, the shop manual says it's equal to 1/2" diameter orifice.) So, when your thermostat is closed, the pump is circulating water through the head with this 1/2" restriction at it's inlet. That will be the same as what I rig up. Dynaflash - I totally agree with your comments on crud in the block. I have flushed min
  3. As a pre-war Buick owner ('38 Special), I have been advised to restrict the spring loaded thermostat bypass mechanism to limit the flow bypassing the radiator. The claim is that the post-war version of this straight eight engine has a different "fixed" bypass arrangement, and that this later design is more effective. Can anyone confirm the design of the bypass in the later Buick straight eights? Jeff
  4. If I recall correctly, my '38 Special differential cover only went on one way - it has a feature to accommodate the ring gear. Yours might be the same. Jeff
  5. Just my two cents... You should be checking the master cylinder at least twice each driving season! A single circuit brake system with no fluid level sensor as found on modern cars - leads to a very, very bad failure mode. My '38 Special with a re-sleeved, rebuilt master cylinder still weeps just a bit out the back of the master cylinder. Happy to hear that yours do not, but a bit more wear or hardening of the seals and I would guess they may start to weep. Same goes for your wheel cylinders. I would recommend checking frequently. As far as mi
  6. Yeah, I tend to agree with you Don. I went with the lip seal version because that is what one of the parts catalogs listed as correct for the '38. That doesn't necessarily mean they are correct of course! It doesn't do much for rain, but it may help to minimize drafts. Maybe.
  7. On your side windows, what did you use for lower seals? I have a '38 Special, same 2-door body style. On mine, I finally concluded that a lip seal was used on the bottom channel of the window. It is a u-shaped rubber piece (that holds the glass into the metal channel) with a lip that is supposed to seal on the edge of the door. At least I think that is what was used originally. After installation, I can only say that its ability to seal against the door is weak at best. Plus, since it is below the edge of the door, any rain comes in regardless. (that's what the dra
  8. Sure can - I put 1950 rods in mine. Turned the crank journals down by 010 at a machine shop, and bought 010 under bearing inserts. Be careful to cross-check compatibility using Hollander's interchange manual. I think, post-war up to about '52 will work, but don't take my word for it. I also used 1950 style pistons, .030 over, from Egge. (along with the appropriate rings). You always have to check the 0.010 end gap clearance, and file to fit. I do have some left-over babbitted rods - if you are interested. The old technique was to remove shims to get the appropria
  9. I did mine substantially cheaper - but I did most of the re-build myself. Farmed out the 030 over rebore, 010 under crank machining, and new guides and seats in the head, plus head assembly. I sourced my own parts, ran back and forth to the machine shop, etc. Enjoyed the process. Its been a few years, maybe $3000? Ok, round it up to $4000, as I have probably forgotten about the overruns. Sorry I can't be more accurate, Jeff
  10. I guess my Dad would qualify. One of my first car memories, at around age 4 or 5, was his NSU Prinz - maybe a '62. It was a two cylinder rear engine car that looked a bit like a 2/3 scale, first generation Corvair. That would have been pretty unusual in the mid-Sixties. Hats off to my Dad! Jeff
  11. If I were re-conditioning one of the original types, I would try to see if there is a way to replace that cork washer. I don't see any way to get this dampening function from the aftermarket type.
  12. Dave, is your gauge original? Or, aftermarket? Also, if your tank is a '38, it would have a rigid filler on the driver's side. Wasn't the '37 filler different? My aftermarket sending unit reads reasonably accurately, but bounces like crazy as the gas sloshes around. It looks like the original has a little washer that dampens the device, while the aftermarket has no such feature. Is this a common experience out there? Any fixes for this? Jeff
  13. With the switch all the way out (fourth position), the driver's side should be on high beam, even with the dimmer switch in the low beam position. The only light that switches in that mode is the passenger side. In the third position, both lights will switch. Also, the parking lights will go out when high beam is selected, and will be on when low beam is selected.
  14. Be sure your timing is not advanced too far. Use the biggest cable you can find. Also, how is the battery grounded - to the engine or chassis? Might want to have a redundant path there as well. (the paint thing again!) Good luck, Jeff
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