dibarlaw

Marie: I also copied this and posted on the AACA - Studebaker forum site. These look to be very good quality restorations. Hope there is some interest.

Gary: What style of lower control arms do you have? Mine are the 1936 style without the replaceable bushings. I had to jury rig mine to be able to get it aligned. I drove in fitted brass wedges as an expedient. I did that prior to my trip to South Bend in 2013. After 7000 miles I have not lost any of the wedges. I purchased a set of new lower control shafts and that is when I found out they were different. I have a later set of arms to exchange that will take the ones with the bushings. I just do not feel like tearing apart the whole front end to replace them at this time. Larry

Not mine. 2 cars for sale in North Central PA. See the AACA Buy/ sale section.

carmover: I can not tell what the image is from your photo. Detail is blurred. I hope someone else can help since I can not get to my car and dig in to check. (Rotator Cuff surgery) It really limits ones ambition! Larry

Many of the custom cars for Hollywood royalty such as Chaplin were done by the Don Lee studio. One may check on that lead. I remember in one of my Floyd Clymer books that had some reference to the Don Lee Company.

I asked Marie if she needed help in posting the photos but apparently she has mastered it! Very nice looking cars. Studebakers are quite a good tour car for the era. She indicated that they have not been driven since before her fathers passing. Last time the cars were operated was in 2011. If I were not a Buick guy I would love to look in to these beauties.

Carmover: The gears in the side pocket of the transmission may be gummed up. They will need to be cleaned and lubed. If you have a lot of free play the return spring may be broken in the crossover box. Our mechanism for the 1925 Standard is different than the Master as Kevin has shown in his photo. The principals are all the same just different design of parts. The other photo is what these starter gears looked like after I lost one of the clutch facings. Everything in this side case should be cleaned, gears able to spin, and slide on their shafts. Good Luck : Larry

Most of the original photos I have seen show Black wires. The photo is of a 1928 Sport Roadster I judged at Portland. The oak colored wires look period for pre 1920 cars. The person I bought my 1925 from had the Oak (yellow) wires on it. When I detailed my engine I did black.

I believe with the spare stuff I got with my Master there is a good useable shaft I can send you. The die cast distributor case is junk. On the Master, the son of the previous owner said that his dad and uncles worked up an IHC(DELCO) unit as a replacement. Almost identical to your worn example. It works great. And a plus is that the cap, rotor, points and condenser are off the shelf from NAPA. All together less than a set of original style points. I replaced the die-cast unit in my standard with a later cast iron one like you show. It just dropped in and works great. My old standard die-cast unit on the right. Cast iron on the left. Larry

I would agree with Don. On my USA original there is the steel arbor to do this to. I have not seen what Skip Boyer or Bob's looks like. BOB'S on line catalog may have an image.

BTT

Pete: Those are not 37 Handles. At least they are not what is on my car. I took my spare with a split knob and removed it. There is a steel cap on the inside. I drilled it out with a 5/16" drill. Then I drove the steel core stem out with a 1/4" punch. They may have been swaged to the counter bore on the back side.

Pete : The plastic knobs snap in. Pressed in. Being 80 years old some of my spares have the knobs crumbled off. Of course they are destroyed when the handle is being plated. I will check for you. Larry

carmover. It should be black. I had mine powder coated. Looks great. Are you back on the road yet? Larry

Thanks for posting on this topic. I will be interested in some responses. On my 1925-25 the starter pedal engages very smoothly and no grinding. On my 1925-45 Master I really have to "MASH" down on the starter plunger to keep engagement or it grinds very easily.To me that would not seem normal. Leif Holmberg is sending me scans of the 1925 Master Book of Parts so I will have a better Idea of how the plunger set up is supposed to look as opposed to the standard pedal arrangement.

Matt: Specials have the single stage fuel pump. I had my wiper motor rebuilt and when returned, the rebuilder said that was the best he could do. So, it still did not work. "Rainex" is great stuff. I needed it on out 36-38 trip to Nashville in Sept 2015 also on the downpours we had at Allentown. I bought a later NOS replacement from the '"wiperman " at Hershey 2 years ago. I installed that one last fall. It works fine but the bushings on the wiper arm towers need attention. So I was ready for any April Showers on the 36-38 tour to Wilmington. Oh well, hope we can meet again. C Carl's points are all good comments. Just remember that the bit of extra H.P. will not overcome the R.P.M. to rear axle ratio issue. Gary: I will have to repair my block drain as you have done. Beautiful, well thought out and researched work! Best Regards: Larry

The 1922-45 John Fesser and I worked on outside of Baltimore had several bent push rods. As I turned the engine over with the crank John could see nothing moving on top of #s 5 and 6 but the push rods would spring out with every revolution.Took us about 30 minutes to get the valves unstuck and straighten the pushrods on a hardwood block on the concrete floor. Then there was the 1920 K 44 I bid on from a museum in Cumberland MD. All it needed was a little "TLC" according to the description. Not a straight one in the bunch. The top end was dry as a bone. Not a trace of oil. Look at the rust on the valve springs.

Bob: Thank you for the offer. My Master parts book should be just about the same. I need more specific to my n1925 Master since the 1925 Book of Parts shows an illustration of almost every part. Larry

Appears to be a 1926 Catalog.

Even a copy with torn or missing covers will work.

A few more sets have shown up. Close but no cigar.

Joe: Good talking with you last night. I know that all the contacts I suggested you already have. I hope to come down to visit you and your little sport roadster. Photos are of the one I had the privilege to judged at the 2014 Portland Buick Nationals. I do love these 1923 Sport roadsters and tourings. Someday perhaps......

1963 RIVIERA This was posted first in our Mason-Dixon Newsletter "The Porthole" Here are some specs on the Riviera: Runs & Drives, 60,000 original miles, one family vehicle, 401 Nail Head Engine , A/T, Currently wearing American Racing Wheels, still have factory wheels. $18,000 neg. Phone Brad at 717-266-6470 (Manchester PA. ) for further information.

Beautiful looking Model 44. You have a real treasure there! Larry

Shultz23: What model is your roadster? The model 44 or the Model 54 sport roadster?