dibarlaw

Several members had called about the Bugle notice (Gray Box) on page 10 indicating the importance of signing the ballot. Yet on the ballot itself there was no place indicated for a signature. The question is now if the ballot is not signed will it be disqualified?

Charlie: There should be bushings to take up that space. These units need to be placed very precisely for all the starter pedal to gears to starter/generator and then finally to the flywheel to do their job. What is the unit off of? A 1925 Buick?

Kenny: Welcome to the forum I am sure Mark Shaw should give you a hand with some information. he has a model 31 as do a few others here. My only reference is on the several I attempted to purchase. Below are photos of the water pump/ mag side of engine on those cars.

Yes Pete it is a 4 cylinder model 34.

My photo of the 1942 Limited at the 2013 South Bend Meet.

If anyone is interested in purchasing this one they should get in touch with midman from the Buick Club forum. He purchased what appeared to be a very nice older 1960s restoration of a 1931 96S several years ago. Trying to put a bit of money in it to have a nice "driver". Some paint touch up, maintenance new tires etc. Then the drive train issues began. He has started a new thread on the engine reassembly. (I know what he has in the yet to be assembled engine alone.) As others have noted about chrome cost but that would not stop me from driving it. The missing top material and headliner would have me worried about the body wood.

Yes Oldsmobile did make trucks at this period but the Beverly Hillbilly's Oldsmobile was a re-configured touring car. I still wish I had the plastic toy model I got for Christmas in 1962.

This has been a long hard road for the PWD to get this for the membership. Thank you Mark for your skill and patience.

Nick: Where was the photo taken? I see 3 Buicks across and to the right. My favorites, 1923 Sport touring and roadster.

KongaMan:' The 1925 S/Gs do not "click" as loud as the earlier units but it is audible as it motors. Sort of a light chattering. But it is noticeable when it motors. And yes as some of the others have said I wish we could be there in person to help.

Nice going Gary. I knew you would go for it! I have done some radio restoration, in particular Atwater Kent Bread board components. Since Atwater Kent started out doing ignition systems they continued that same technology into their radio engineering. One of the first integral radio components in a single case. Meaning, voltage control, amplifier transformers and all connections sealed in a can. The unit on the right had 2 Radio Frequency transformers and 2 Audio transformers buried (potted)in the sealing compound The potting compound was an asphalt compound (tar). I have used an oven to heat that stuff out. Nasty! Early RCA Superheterodyne sets used a beeswax compound in their "catacombs" to seal all the transformers from moisture. What a pain to service!

Terry : I see what you mean. Above and beyond workmanship.

Gary: I really think that it is doable. When I taught small gas engines years ago I made a sectional of a coil for demonstrations. To cut the case with a hack saw or a cutting wheel is easy enough. The plastic top where the primary and secondary wires can be cut or carefully broken to expose the wiring. Carefully re route the wires and solder to the corresponding terminals to the original case making sure they are insulated with high temp tubing. Once the new core is put in the original case melted wax can be added to seal and secure the coil. Good luck. Larry

Here is an early one, a 1915 that showed up to a show at Dillsburg PA last summer. The owner did confirm that it was a truck chassis.

And just for reference the museum truck has 1924 Headlights.

I tagged along with midman to get his engine. The one they are working on for my 1925 is still underway. Here he is with Patrick Reeve . He may be thinking... "What have I gotten myself into"? Freshly machined and balanced crankshaft. Much heavier than the head I helped carry.

Similar to the one at our Mason Dixon show last June that one Best of show. Model 58. This one looks to need a little more TLC that that one did. If it runs it is priced fairly. I wonder what carb they are using on the flipped manifold?

My thoughts go between 2 different eras. Since I was a 10 year old way back in the last century the 1910 Model 10 was my hearts desire. Since I have had my 1925s the sport touring has made a new spot for me. A 1923 through 1927 would fit the bill nicely. 1923-55 1924-55 1925-55 Original promotional photo. Recent restoration. 1925-55 Only 1926-55 reference I have ever seen. 1927-55 Dec 25 1926.pdf

When I rebuilt my vacuum tank I threw the crappy regulator away but kept the electric pump in line under the front seat frame rail. It has helped me to do a quick fill on the tank in a pinch. Hopefully when I get the engine back in the car and do some miles up hill I will be able to evaluate better the performance..

I do not know Hugh. All I know is that the way I installed it the clutch now operates smooth as silk! Well, when there is an engine in front of it. Larry

AS did I. Comparison of Standard and big 6 clutch. I kept my friends Master clutch intact as a guide in reassembly. Even then I installed the driven disks upside down and had to re-do them. Larry

The 1928's all have the hole thru the radiator and shell. The difference is the placement of the hole and the Master core is thicker. My bet would be a Master. Larry

Also remember these bumpers had manufacture specific brackets when sold. The Buicks are different than Cadillac or Oakland Hudson etc. The mounting brackets are different between the Buick Master and Standard series. I had a set of Buckeye Bumpers I was going to use on my Buick Standard but it would have meant fabricating all the mounting brackets as I think that they came off of an Overland.

That is what I have on my 1925 master. I will probably have them powder coated like I had the ones on my 1925 Standard. Friend with another 1925 Standard had quoted over $1000 to have them plated. For my Standard I had the front and back Wolverine style bumpers "Chrome Look" (silver paint) on the bars and semi gloss black on the brackets. I believe it cost around $300. To me they look great. Notice that the rear bumper on the Standard is 2 piece for the spare while the WEED bumper on the master is full width.

As Leif comes to the rescue again! The 1928 and 1931 Master parts books indicate that the driving disk and the driven disk are the same for models .... E,H,K, 1921,1922,1923,1924,1925, 6 cylinder. 1922,1923,1924, 4 cylinder.