dibarlaw

Agree with your assessment. Looks like it was originally a black car from the rust stained sills. Also just like my 1937 Special it has sheet metal screws holding the running board moldings. Some day I will replace with the new ones I bought in 1988!

Kyle : I think we have seen this on the forum before for sale. The ID plate on the firewall is needed to confirm as is the frame #. I believe the person was trying to make up a Sport roadster from parts and pieces. Come see us at C4M 44-45 at Hershey. Your fenders and radiator shell look to be like what is on this 1922. 1923-54 Sport roadster. Fenders are different.

David: In the 1925 Master Shop manual page 48, states..."Inner valve spring should have an approximate free length of 2 3/8" and a pressure of 41 to 49 lbs. when compressed to 1 25/32". Outer valve springs should have an approximate free length of 2 13/16" and a pressure of 80 to 88 lbs. when compressed to 2 1/32". Closed coil end of spring should be placed at the bottom". This should be the same as the 1924-6 engine since they are essentially the same.The 1925 Standard has the same specifications but does not use the inner spring. When I had the head gone over for my Standard I had the springs checked for wear The springs had free lengths that varied as much as 1/2"! All the compressed readings were well below the standard. I purchased my new springs from EGGE machine. Again outer springs are the same for 1924-6,1925 Master 6 and 1925 Standard 6.

Rodney: My heater is the same as Gary's. There was no shut off. Just the flaps /doors on the front to control the heat and the motor/fan switch. In the summer it will still put out heat. When summer driving I would disconnect the heater hose and install a pipe plug in the fittings. One could also employ a shut off tap on the feed hose.

Finally stopped raining after a month and we had 2 sunny days. Still not dry enough to do any painting on the 1925. We put on about 80 miles on the 1937 yesterday. Also I installed the re-built radio Dave's 40 Buick did for me. I do not have it hooked up yet as I have to re-cover the antenna lead in wires. Rubber coated with a shielding layer. Most of the rubber coating is gone. Also I have to mold a new lead in grommet as well as one for the power lead.

swin10: That was what my clutch on my 1925 Standard was doing. I had to start in gear as it would not go in from neutral. Although once underway I could shift up or down. That is until that fateful day when it seemed to fix itself. I started the car in neutral and IT WENT INTO FIRST WITHOUT GRINDING! A miracle ! But the starter seemed very difficult to engage. Drove a few miles and bought gas. Restarted, the same thing all was well. Drove several miles into the country. Upshift, it did not grind. Downshift, it did not grind. That is until I went to pullout onto busy route 30. I went to shift into second...... NOTHING.... The clutch has left the building! One of the friction disks were coming off and pieces were jamming things up.The remainder of the disintegrating clutch disk had broken free and jammed up into my starter gears. What was in the bottom cover. Another disk ready to come off. Remainder of clutch in the gear set. No wonder it was tough to start!

This one was at the Pioneer Automobile Show Museum in South Dakota. Most cars on display were a bit rough.

I had checked the oil pump on my 1925 Master. I lapped the bottom plate. There was .020 side play on the shaft. It was not so much the gears and shaft that were worn but the housing. I also pulled the pump from my spare 1924 engine as the gears and pump body are the same. Unfortunately they were worn exactly the same amount. The driven gear shaft had worn an elliptical on one side of the bore. The idler gear was ok. I had the shop make a new bushing and things are now in alignment and within spec. I still have to install.

Bob: It will be good to see you and your car at Hershey.

Brian: It will be good to see you for the Hershey experience. Visit at C4M 44 and 45 that is where Dave Blaufarb and I will be set up. We have a cluster of Buick folks near by.

I will need to be doing the same on my 37. I had it out for 4 days before all the rain. We drove it for our regular errands. Starts up right away without a problem every day and after all the short drives. Let it sit for a week and it will take forever to start. I would bring a small container of gas, remove the side plug on the carb and fill it runs out the hole. Give it a squirt of gas down the throat of the carb, hit the starter and it fires right up and idles ....for about 5-10 seconds, then it quits. The fuel in the carb is gone and it is still waiting for delivery from the fuel pump.

Simnut: As I said before there was an ad on the forum several years ago for the sale of a very nice 1923-41. Many great photos and comments by the family. I did trace the cars image to the one in "The Buick A Complete History" The photo credit is for R.L. Green, Owner. I went back several years on the forum checking under different titles and even in my past history of posts as I know I commented at the time. Nothing. Strange. In the 2017 BCA roster there is a K. Sharp who is credited with ownership. I will send you his email in a PM.

I have tried many local upholstery shops. No one was interested. "We only work on classic cars not antiques". Meaning Cameros Mustangs etc... Very frustrating when one knows back in the late 1950s to early 1960s many cars restored at the time had tire covers custom made. I do have a cover that was made for a 1927 model 24 roadster with double spares in the 1950s. They gave me one of the covers and I had a vinyl logo made. Note the adjustable snaps at the bottom. I know last year at Hershey I spoke with a person showing a beautiful 1926 Chrysler that had an embroidered Chrysler logo on the spare tire cover. He did give me the contact info for the person who made the cover and I will hopefully search it out for you. 1923-36 coupe 1924-45 1923-54 Sport Roadster. 1926 Standard currently for sale in Hanover PA. My favorite from Buster Keaton's 1923 "Sherlock Jr" showing a new 1924-45 Buick touring car with FOUR WHEEL BRAKES. Needed to set up the next gag.

It sure looks like a 1923-41 with Tuarc accessory disk wheels. The photo below is of Jim Melewski's mostly original 1923-48 coupe. Jim and Terry Weigand are all smiles. This was taken at the 2016 50th anniversary of the BCA at Allentown Pa. The point is to show what the maroon looks like in the bright sun. The car has a very nice original interior. I would contact them for detailed photos of the interior.

Hugh : And the 1923-55 I offered on in Arizona had the original travel trunk!

Me too for a welcome back Tom! No matter what you do you can not escape the spell of the cage valve Buick! Is you old 1923-49 still down the street? Larry D

I know when I replaced my steering unit it took a LOT OF FOCUS AND FORETHOUGHT. Also do not forget that Michael has an extra complication as he has a 3rd tube for the light dimmer switch.

Simnut: I was doing my 1925-25 in a (2) mode. Unfortunately the engine was too tired to be rejuvenated. So with the engine out for a rebuild I started sliding down the slippery slope of "well while the engine is out I will repaint the front end. Since I did this I might as well have some platting done"...... I still vote for a #2. One frustration on my 1925 was that I could not drive it more than a mile or 2 without severe overheating. Once I took care of that (new radiator core) we finally began enjoying the drive! I wish I could find the posting of the one for sale several years ago. Many good color photos. It surprised me to see that you have a nickeled radiator shell. These model 41s had the black baked enamel radiator shells as well as the fenders, splash aprons, mud pan etc. Any thing that could be removed to go through an oven. The lower body is to be maroon with black above the belt molding surrounding the windows. Again, a great photo on page 181 color portfolio of "The Buick A complete history" 6th edition 2002. This is a McLaughlin Buick coupe but shows the correct color arrangement with the black radiator shell with the thin aluminum bead around the radiator opening. A better view of the color on the Model 55 Sport Touring. My all time favorite Buick!

Looks nice to me also. But with no engine photos, very obviously missing gas tank and rear tire carrier. What mysteries lie within??

Julle: I may have one from a model 48 I got with my 1925-45 Tourer. New ones are not available. This is how I re did the one for my 1925-25. Notice that they are the same for all the models. Just the blank spot after " car as model' is where they were stamped.

Morgan: I know that on the 1910 Model 10 Buick we looked at the rockers were very sloppy with lateral movement. Several rocker shafts were missing washers. Note: 3/16" gap on #2 front rocker. Others could move up to 1/8". After that every Cage valve Buick I looked at I would compare to see if things were set up properly. There should be very slight movement side to side measured in thousands of an inch. I would say no more than .010. To me it would just make good engineering sense. Anyone else have a standard to go by?

Simnut: Welcome to the forum. I concur with the above comments. We are all at the ready to offer assistance. I believe there have been 3 of these model 41s show up on the forum over the last 2 years. One was a very nice, very original, family owned vehicle for sale. I have yet to locate the notice. But it was a color photo car in "The Buick A Complete History". One was on the Richmond VA craigslist as something hibernating since the 1940s. I did find the thread on that and have included a photo. There are more images of this car on the BING search. There was one other which I have not located in similar condition to the one in the photo. Also several of the 4 cylinder versions have surfaced (Model 23-38). As of the last BCA roster there was only (1) 23-41. In older rosters I know there were more. There are more images on the BING search

Mike, I believe the 27/32" is the stroke length for the metering pin. I looked through the Marvel Carb book from BOB'S "Carburetion in Relation to service" and on page 30 it mentions that the part #s are plainly marked on the components. The one on my 1925 Standard was a home made item of dubious accuracy. On a spare engine I have there was the carb set up with the original metering pin link with the # stamped (168-4) which should be the same for 1926, 27, 28 standards. That is according to the calibration chart that comes with the book. The 1928 Master should be (168-10) .Any change in metering pin length will change the duration of the time it comes out of the jet. Effecting rich verses lean running. There is nothing on this chart mentioning the (27/32") distance for anything on the link. I have a small booklet on my 1925 Model T S-3 and S-4 Style Carb for both Standard and Master. That is where I believe it mentions about the metering pin length between the location holes. I made what I thought was a correct replacement for the homemade one I had. DO NOT MAKE IT FROM ALUMINUM ! Even though it was the correct thickness when I went to downshift and gave the carb a bit of a shot of gas the link bent and held the throttle wide open!!! With the engine screaming I thought it would blow. I was able to pull the accelerator pedal up and also shut off the ignition. I did make a good strong replacement and later when I had one to compare to it matched.

Spinneyhill: I agree as I have had to do that to several of the 6 "CLOSE" handles I got for Hugh and I. The each one had some deformation for creating a retainer for the escutcheon. Several had a collar and spring inside. Others had a collar and a cross pin. The one we sent to get replicated has an undercut just under the location of the escutcheon. A split steel collar about 1/4" wide acts as a snap ring.

It looks to be a mechanical rear brake rod.