Stude Light

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233352922864?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Ew3O0sQRSQS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=EWexZXPfShm&var=533308000424&widget_ver=artemis&media=SMS 12/13 oz . Probably the 48” x 18”

Cone Clutch: Here is the work I did on my cone clutch. Your Dyke's manual has a section in there too that describes the shape of the leather. Part 2 Once the clutch settled in after a few drives, it has worked very well. I'm not that far away and you are welcome to use any of the tools, the giant can of Barge cement (which I'll never use up) and the rivets, if they are the right size. I can also talk with Rusty and see if he is willing to part with another strip of leather so you don't have to hunt around for it. Let me know. Scott

My two cents - ditch the RTV and use Permatex The Right Stuff instead. It is a much superior product but also doesn't get all those RTV "strings" that tear off inside your engine with use. I swore off RTV and teflon tape for any automotive use a long time ago. Many auto companies used Continental engines (even Dort's old business partner, Billy Durant). I wonder if some of those are the same ones used in a Dort? Great project. When done you can drive up to Flint for a photo opportunity in front of it's place of manufacture!

The ID tag should be in the same location - on the frame behind the left front wheel. The Light Six would have had a handle - similar to the door handles but this car looks like it would have had a keyed handle. I'm not familiar enough to say one way or the other. From the 1925 Studebaker Sales Brochure:

Took the Olds out to the Orphan Car Show put on by the Ypsilanti Automotive Heritage Museum in Ypsilanti, Michigan. It’s always a unique show as there are only defunct brands (unless you have a Corvair, which are allowed as they were made locally). I was joined by friend @rustyjazz1938 who brought out his 1922 Olds Model 47, which is also V8 powered. My 7 passenger 1921 Model 46 (122" WB gray car) has the Northway designed 246 cu in engine that this post describes. In summary it is a two piece cast iron engine with the split line down the center and detachable heads with only 2 main bearings. The engine design dates to its introduction in 1916 and it was last built in 1922. The 5 passenger Model 47 car (115" WB maroon car) was designed around a 4 cylinder engine but, being unconstrained in design and spending at the time (this was when Durant was still running GM and before Alfred Sloan put the brakes on all the ill advised spending), Olds decided they should design their own V8 which would fit under the hood. They tooled up a new plant to build the engine which was loosely designed around the Northway. It retained the 2-7/8” bore but the stroke was shortened to 4.5” yielding 233 cu in and rated at 63 hp vs the Northway’s 58 hp. Crankshaft was identical except in stroke and it used the same fork and blade rod design. The big difference was that the crankcase was an all aluminum casting with cast iron cylinders bolted on and a detachable head. The bolted on aluminum water pump housing was integrated into the block design requiring disassembly of the front of the engine to service it. It also used a two main bearing design (yes, aluminum bearing caps). For some reason, this engine used a fiber crankshaft timing gear and a steel cam gear instead of the other way around. So, now you have Oldsmobile building two totally different V8 engines on two assembly lines with practically the same horsepower*. They sold both engines in 1921 and 1922 and Sloan finally stopped the madness after 1923 when Olds dropped the V8s and went to 6 cylinder cars. We found four common parts between these two engine designs - generator, primer cups, breather vent cap, throttle/ignition timing jackshaft at the rear of the engine. *I think my heavier Model 46 will easily out accelerate the Model 47 (sorry Rusty) so I’m not sure where Olds got those horsepower ratings. It was great having both cars side by side. The spectators enjoyed hearing the story of the two engines and listening to them both run. Thanks for a good day Rusty!

I left it in when I re-plated mine. I just worked around the glass when polishing it up and the copper and nickel plating solution only runs up to 110 deg F. Being non-conductive, the glass won't attract any plating metals. FYI - you can normally just shake down the red alcohol in the tube like an oral thermometer. Scott

There was one other issue that a friend pointed out. When the engine is revved up the entire distributor does a little jig. It reminded me of one of those dashboard hula girls. Since I managed to catch a cold, I didn’t feel like crawling under the car to work on the starter so I pulled the distributor and made a shim to remove the play in the mount. I measured the parts up and surprisingly they were pretty round with only 0.005-0.006” play on the OD so I used 0.002” shim stock and made a spacer. Since I had the distributor out I wanted to replace the 102 year old condenser as it looked like my points were just starting to pit a little. I cut the old one apart and, with a little modification, the modern one sandwiches in there perfectly so the housing makes a good ground. I used some carbon conductive grease to ensure good conductivity over time. Reassembled and I didn’t even screw up my timing (I did mark the rotor position before removal).

When I was visiting UPMC Hospital East in Monroeville last month, they were using leaf blowers to clean them off the sidewalks. I live in Michigan and (I never thought I would actually write this down) one of the benefits here is that the temps dip below zero occasionally in the winter. Thankfully, anything below about 10 degrees F will kill the Spotted Lanternfly Eggs. The adults die after the first freeze but the eggs are more resilient.

A couple of interesting facts about Piquette Plant. It was designed with a number of fire doors that would allow fires to be contained within certain sections of the building. Also designed in was a 25,000 gallon water based fire suppression system. These two safety systems were incorporated because just a few years earlier the Olds Motor Works Detroit factory burned to the ground and Henry Ford saw the importance of preventing a similar occurrence at his factory. So, besides adopting the idea of a progressive assembly line from Olds, Ford also used the misfortune of the fire at Olds Motor Works to improve his future operations. Ford sold the Piquette Plant to Studebaker in 1911, so this general site was also the Studebaker Detroit Assembly Plant. So, you Studebaker enthusiasts with cars built in Detroit between 1911 and 1933 can also park out front and claim this as your car’s birthplace too.

Took the Olds on a nice road trip today with my wife, Sue. We went with some friends to an apple orchard for a picnic and some apple picking. Prior, we took a tour of the local area although one of the Model Ts got a flat tire (12 minutes to change out). I drove from home so the entire trip was just shy of 100 miles. The car ran really well. I cruised around 40mph with the ambient temperature peaking at 92 degrees today and humid. Coolant temp ran around 170 degrees. My only issue was the starter bendix would gradually migrate back to the flywheel and you could hear it bouncing off the teeth so I would pull over, shut the engine off and restart which would throw the bendix back out. I’ll pull the starter and fix the friction device on the bendix before taking it back out - easy fix.

Pictured above is a Special Six and yes, the visors did come tinted. The Big Six had a very similar design so it is possible it is from a Big Six also. Definitely not a Light Six part as the Light Six Touring Cars were not offered with a visor - only the closed cars had them. Scott

I recall that this was recently on BaT and thought the result was pretty much in line with the value. Unless a desirable brand, the nickel era cars aren't bringing much as there is little interest. I doubt I could get over $20K for my Light Six Touring Car, which is pretty close to a 400 point car and runs and drives perfectly. For the most part, the touring cars are still the more desirable body style over the closed bodies. Sorry to sound like the Debbie Downer on prices but it's just the reality of where the market is. Scott

In this case I would suggest rarity does not equate to value. Body style and condition are your primary value drivers. Convertibles demand a higher price. Four Door Sedans are priced the lowest with the Coupes slightly higher than the 4 Doors and probably the Rumble Seat Coupe a bit more than the standard Coupe. I would suggest an extremely nice original or really well restored sedan in perfect running condition would fetch $20-$25K. A Convertible in that same condition would be in the $35-$40K range. I would add maybe $5-$7K over the sedan for a Rumble Seat Coupe. That is just based on what I see being sold the last year or so. Scott

No Eric, not this year. The theme of the show is Indiana built cars and, although I've had it there before, I thought the 1923 Studebaker would be the best fit. 100 years old this year AND built in Indiana. The Olds would have been a fun car to take though. Scott

For the leather fan belt measurement you loosen the bolt on the fan bracket and rotate the bronze assembly to obtain the shortest distance between the two pulleys and wrap a tape measure around those to get the belt length. Then order a new belt. I used John Knox in the past. He was a super nice guy that made belts. Unfortunately he passed away last year. Here is another source: https://www.hudsonbelting.com/leather-belts They do not run very tight - I can easily spin my fan blade by slipping the belt. I found on my Light Six that after higher speed drive it is best to run the idle of the engine up for a little while before shutting it off. This allows the water pump to circulate the water away from the hot cylinders. As @Bloo mentioned, the water level is easily overfilled. I keep it to the top of the vertical tubes in the radiator only, otherwise it just dumps out. I also run straight water and No-Rosion instead of glycol as you gain about 20% better heat transfer. My car is kept in a heated garage though so it sees no freezing weather.

The forum has that new “Services Offered” section. That would be a good place to post Erik’s business. Good posts like this usually get lost otherwise.

It may also be a diagnostic tool for the working part of the system. You could easily see if the float, over center spring, valve mechanism and flapper valve are functioning correctly.

That is an award to be proud of 🤩. Personally, I would have gone with the T bucket. Seriously, I often meet the nicest people at the little local shows.

I would expect that it should read something north of 15 in Hg at an idle. 4 is way low. To find a leak, I use a flammable spray such as carb cleaner or starting fluid and just use short bursts around each connection or gasketed area and when you hear an increase in engine rpm you have found the culprit.

My local machine shop did not want to tackle my 1921 Olds V8. Hart’s was happy to take it on with it’s crazy split block, two main bearing design and fork and blade rods.

I took the 1953 Deluxe 88 NASCAR out of the RE Olds Transportation Museum to the track and Al Schultz and I ‘raced’ around the track to get a few shots of the Hudson with it’s primary competitor. Keep in mind that an Oldsmobile won NASCAR in 1950 and 1951 and later in 1955 as it had the first post-war OHV, short stroke, modern designed engine (the Rocket 88) which gave it an engine advantage. The Olds was driven by Dick Passwater during the 1953 season. The big advantage the Hudson Hornet had, besides looking so good, was that low center of gravity. You can see the difference in body roll in this photo, although, to be fair, I was accelerating into that corner a bit to try to get the two cars lined up for the shot. But it does illustrate how that low CG greatly benefited the Hudson. That big flathead 6 also performed very well.

Wow, that is a very nice specimen. The one that was donated to the RE Olds Transportation Museum has surface oxidation and it was decided not to polish it out and keep it in an as found condition. The Viking car has the distinction of being the first monobloc V8 engine - really sounds good too.

After about 300 miles of driving I decided to pull the plugs for a health check. The doctor says that the patient is doing well. Oil sample also shows good health. I'll keep driving it until the snow flies then will probably address king pin wear, although it tracks and steers quite nicely.

I've used Harts and would highly recommend them.

What part of the US are you in? That would help direct you somewhere closer to your location.