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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. I have a set of new spokes for 4 wheels (48 spokes) that I believe are for a Special Six. The individual spoke length is about 8-1/8 inches, not including the dowel on the outside end. The wheel diameter in the photo (less the dowel length) is 18 inches and the dowel diameter is 5/8". The spokes are numbered for ease of assembly. I believe these are for a 20" wheel. I can take some more measurements if needed. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  2. There are two types of fender welt that I've seen....the beaded type where the bead shows between the fender and body and the non-beaded type that would be loacted far enough inboard from the fender edge that it would be compressed and not be seen. I thought I would reassemble my car with the non-beaded type. I believe Restoration Supply sells it. Gary got me thinking though. I have some 3M Scotch 130 deg C Linerless Splicing Tape....great stuff, rubber based, conforms really well, slightly tacky on both sides, sticks to itself and is 0.030" thick. Scott
  3. Hi John, I think the high cost of nickel plating is common across states.....I had to give my left foot and pancreas to get my gauge and light bezels done. I have 24 lug nuts along with a few odds and ends to still get done so I thought I would try a kit from Caswell and see how that goes http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/nickel-plating-kits.html. Might be tough to do a whole radiator shell though. Scott
  4. When I disassembled my 1923 Light Six it did not appear to have been disassembled before and I found nothing between the fenders and body. Scott
  5. This is what I have. If you think it will work on your 1920 Special Six, send me an email. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  6. I found a pair of front hold down brackets and wing nut screws. The brackets are p/n 200282. I looked up in my parts manuals and these fit 1922-1924 Light Six and 1923-1924 Special and Big Six Touring Cars. The 1920 - 1922 Special Six show a different part number. I'll take a phot0 and post it when I get a chance. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  7. Wayne, I think tires are really easy to mount and demount on the disc wheels. First you need to deflate the tires by removing the valve stem. The locking ring is sandwiched between the inflated tire and groove in the disc wheel. To remove it, insert a thin pry bar or screwdriver into the notch in the lock ring and pry it down. Take another screwdriver or pry bar and pry the lock ring away from the disc wheel. Continue working the lock ring off in this manner. Once the lock ring is off you can slide the tire assembly off of the disc wheel. If the tire has been on a long time it may be rusted to the wheel and requires persuasion to remove it. I turn the rim over and stand on the tire and bounce my weight until the tire breaks loose. Reverse the above procedure to reinstall. You need to make absolute certain that the locking ring is fully engaged into the rim before putting air into the tire. People have been severely injured or killed by not heading this advice and having the lock ring fly off as the tire gets up to pressure. Although I have never had a problem, I use a fill hose that locks on to the valve stem then place the tire/wheel assembly with the lock ring facing away from me some distance away and fill remotely, just to be on the safe side. If you are unsure of yourself for reassembly I suggest you take your tire/wheel assembly to a truck repair facility. They use a cage to fill the tire in just in case of an issue. Scott
  8. Hi John, Looks like my steering wheel is the wrong one as it is only 17in diameter and has the wrong hub but I did find a few other parts. Some of the gauages will need rebuilt and you'll need to find handles for the switch (I think I have a lead for those). Send me an email and let me know what you might be interested in. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  9. I think I have a steering wheel and perhaps some gauges. If someone has a picture of a Special Six dashboard they could post that would be very helpful. Scott
  10. Chassis is coming along - have a few more items to add. Now I need to start working on the body. Scott
  11. Hi Doug, I have a 1923 Light Six Touring car that I'm doing a frame off/nut and bolt restoration on. This weekend I should have a rolling chassis with engine, driveline, brakes and steering, so all those little bags of parts that I created when I disassembled the car are finally going back together. Let me know if you need anything identified. I also have a large number of Light Six parts in case you are looking for something and I'm only 8 hours west of you:-) By the way - that's not the original radiator cap. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  12. That is a rather nice listing of bearings - I also made a copy. Obviously put out by the Timken Company and probably much sought after by non-Studebaker owners too. Studenut, keep in mind that Timken made tapered roller bearings at the time and not thrust bearings. Too bad your bearings have no markings as that would probably help OLCAR identify them for you. Again, I would start measuring your old part and if OLCAR can't help out you can probably find something in production, although you may need to make some spacers too since today's bearings package a lot better. Scott
  13. I don't think the Studebaker Archives have much back to 1915 and my experience with thrust bearings going that far back is to measure up what you have and start looking for a comparable size currently available. There were not many thrust bearing companies back then (the Nice Bearing Company was one of the few) and the part numbers would not cross to any bearings today. Good luck. Scott
  14. Tom, This what I did with my Light Six based on old photos, analyzing the paint/finish on my original parts, analyzing the paint on the plethora of spare parts I have and wanting to be able to maintain a decent looking engine. It wouldn't surprise me that the consistency of what was painted which color coming out of the Studebaker factory wasn't exact either. As best I can tell they just left the aluminum "as cast". For my aluminum parts I sandblasted them to clean them up but that leaves them with an unnatural flat finish that will show every mark and speck of dirt. I followed this up with a steel shot bead blast which yielded a very nice satiny finish that appears much like as cast. I put a satin clear coat over that which didn’t really change the sheen but provided some protection from dirt and oils. As far as paint finish on the parts….you will find that most unrestored cars usually have little sheen if any on the engine parts. I’m not so sure that they were painted that way or that is just from the high varnish paints they used back then that would cook at the higher temperatures the engines run at, not to mention all the damage from the oils or cleaners. The spare Remy parts I have look to be at least a semi-gloss sheen. Looking at the 1927 Dictator photo in the post you can see some sheen on the engine parts which looks slightly less than that of the body (which doesn’t look all that glossy in the photos). I question the date that photo was taken as I do not believe that spark plug wire boots were used until much later, so that engine had already been baking the paint a bit. This is mostly just speculation so who knows for sure whether it was gloss, semi-gloss, satin or flat. I decided that the paint may have been gloss when applied in 1923 and I know a high gloss paint would be much easier to maintain on my car so I went with that. The one compromise I had to make was what to do with the fasteners… they were just unpainted (post manufacturing) when assembled which usually leaves them somewhere between light gray and dark gray depending on post processing (usually drawn, formed, oil quenched and machined with oil) with not much rust protection. I really didn’t want to paint them because I know they weren’t originally, so I decided to just go with a black oxide coating after sand blast which leaves them dark charcoal to black in color. Then I applied Boeshield T7 to prevent rusting. I’m pretty happy with the results. I wasn’t sure about the brass parts, so they got the satin sheen bead blast with clear coat. Does it look exactly like it did when it rolled off the assembly line? Probably not, but without being there that day, I'm satisfied that it is close. Scott
  15. I have a Stromberg TX-2 but I think these were for an earlier model Commander and I believe Dictator also - around 1927 or 1928. It is suffering from some of the decay issues (mostly the float cover) but may have some useful parts for someone. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  16. Hi Doug, I have a short block that might work for you from a 1923 Light Six with the cast iron head - block, crank, rods, pistons, cam. There is some light rust in the bores but I think it will clean up well. If you plan on restoring the car, I have a number of parts you'll need - steering wheel, disc wheel (for the spare), correct horn, correct coil, correct radiator cap. FYI - the Light Six came with either a Remy or Wagner electrical system. Yours is the Wagner (coil, distributor, generator, starter, cut out relay). I gave the office a call but you weren't avail. Let me know if you are interested. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  17. Tom, The automotive OEMs typically create the best oil additive packages as they have the needs, history and, more importantly, the resources for development of oil blends. Speaking in terms of mineral oils, most oil base stocks are similar between the major oil companies. The differences are in the additive packages developed that are blended in. This is mostly true for the synthetics too, although there are several different types of synthetic base stocks. That all said, your engine rebuilder should have used an assembly lubricant when reassembling your engine. Personally, I have had good success adding a 16 oz bottle of GM assembly lube with a good quality, straight weight, ashless dispersant mineral oil (example might be the Pennzoil SAE HD-30 that is on the shelf at your local store). Start the engine, idle for a while then start driving it with some load, just keep the engine speed (rpm) to a moderate level for the first several hundred miles. The key is that you don't want to just idle it for extended periods, it should be run in under a load to seat (break-in) the rings to cylinder wall interface and keeping the rpm down will allow your new babbited to properly seat, wear off any high spots, etc. before increasing the loads on the bearings which go up exponentially with engine rpm. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-88862586/ or you can buy it at your local GM dealer. I would change the oil after one or two hundred miles and just use SAE 30 oil and skip the ZDDP additives - no need for it in your car (the break-in oil has the required zinc for break-in, after that, save your money). Scott
  18. I have a NOS left front fender for a 1925 EQ Special Six for sale. Part number is 109834. Located in mid-Michigan. $250.00 Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  19. In the Antique Stubaker Review...John Cislak is selling the coupling disks. Classic Auto Restoration, 33 Briggs St., Indian Orchard, MA 01151. 413-543-9017. eBay store http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIERCE-ARROW-WATER-PUMP-COUPLER-1929-TO-1932-EIGHT-/110898526969?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d2113af9&vxp=mtr#ht_967wt_1157. They fit my 1923 Light Six fine. Scott
  20. Robert, Most of the early Studebaker pistons had bronze bushings for the wrist pins. I'm not sure when they stopped but at least through 1925 (last year of my parts manuals) had piston pin bushings. Scott
  21. I used the attached photos of the original paint to choose the shade of gray for my engine. Scott
  22. What Gary laid out above is what I used to assemble my Light Six aluminum head but I used Permatex Copper Spray (http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-hi-temp-sealant-detail) instead of aluminum paint. I went through the tightening sequence about 4 times starting with low torque and gradually getting up to about 45 or 50 ft lbs. Scott
  23. Tom, I did find an original 4769 B (Studebaker p/n 35376). Sent you a PM. Scott
  24. A picture would definitely help. Like Robert, I have a number of lenses and full light assemblies. Worst case I can compare the parts manual pictures to my head light assemblies, then I would know which lens you need. I'm sure one of us can come up with what you need. Scott
  25. Gary, The Light Six tank is a bit taller and smaller in diameter than either the Special Six or Big Six tank. My Light Six part is in really nice shape. I did go digging around and found a tank that came off a Special Six or Big Six - don't really know how to tell the two apart. The outer tank is a bit rusty and I found two pin holes that would need repaired. The inner tank is in pretty nice shape along with the check valve on the bottom. I also have the brackets. It uses the same top as the Light Six tank so I can take the one off my other tank and swap it. The top is an original pot metal part and shows no sign of disintegration. The float and valve system work fine. Let me know if you need some measurements or are interested. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com<o:p></o:p>
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