Stude Light

Just to be clear: A - Timer not Dimer, that connects to the distributor (or timer) points and is part of the primary winding of the coil (ground side) B - Battery, correctly stated above, that terminal provides no electrical path internal to the coil and only serves as a support to connect the battery wire to the resistor C - That screw attaches the resistor to the input primary winding of the coil (battery side) D - High tension (secondary winding) provides the high voltage spark and connects to the center terminal on the distributor cap E - Mounting base (ground) F - Holds the coil together, does not provide a voltage path Resistance A-C is across primary winding Resistance D-E is across secondary winding You need to also check the coil resistor itself (remove screw C and test independently). I have found issues with the path from the resistor wire via the top through the screw due to corrosion. The resistance measurements will give you an idea if you have a short or open but, as mentioned, to really understand if the coil is working you need a coil tester or a car to test it with. Good luck Scott

Ken, Replying to your PM question...this is the original oil can. Note the design of the threaded base on the spout and compare to yours - you can see it matches the tool kit photo from the parts manual. Just like other tools, I'm sure there were more than one oil can manufacturer, so you never know. It measures 3.5" across the base and is common to all the Studebaker models from the early 1920s. The brazed one you have is only 3.25" wide so, it is not correct. Scott

Besides strength, durability and lighter weight, the big benefit of the disc wheels was the ease of repairing a flat tire (i.e. patching the tube). Flats were very common in the teens and twenties due to all the horseshoe nails on the roads. With a roadside flat, you changed out the disc wheel spare just like you do today - as a tire/wheel assembly with lug nuts. This wasn't a whole lot different than changing out the rim/tire assembly on the artillery (wood spoke) design other than it just used the 5 or 6 lug nuts to attach it versus more attachment hardware that was typical of most of the artillery wheel designs. The disc wheel/tire assembly was probably a bit heavier than the rim/tire assembly used on an artillery wheel, which is why they made that simple tool that allowed you to slide the wheel up over the stud. As mentioned, the real benefit was when you had the put a patch on your tube. Getting the tire off the disc wheel was really easy compared to the artillery wheel split rim design. First, just a mention on the split rims....those attach to the artillery wheels and are split across the entire cross section of the rim. A rim spreader makes the job easier but it still isn't nearly as easy as the split ring design wheels. Split rims can also be a hazard when pressurizing and there are a number of different designs to lock the halves together, some more robust than others. The disc wheels have a detachable split ring. To remove the tire, first you deflate the tire, insert a screwdriver into the slot in the ring (pictured) and pry up. Once you get it started you just pry the ring off the rim and the tire/tube assembly slides right off. Since mine have the 90 degree nickeled valve stem sticking through the rim, there is also a nut that has to be removed to get the tube off. Once you patch the tube, just slide the tire back over the rim and put the split ring back in place. This Michelin design has a really deep locking groove, deeper than other designs I serviced from the 1960s/70s. I would imagine that they all have their hazard issue - maybe some designs more than others. The hazard is on initial fill and if the ring wasn't seated correctly. I'm not sure how you couldn't get these Michelin designs correctly installed but I'm sure someone figured out how to screw that up. Regardless, I did take precautions during initial fill. Scott

Yes, looks like you have quite a few of the original tools. 👍 Like most OEMs of the day, Studebaker didn't always buy their tools from the same supplier. In their literature they show a couple of different tire pumps (minor differences) but with the same part number. I have seen a couple original tool sets with different manufacturers for the wrenches, although they were the same shape and size. Most of their wrenches were from the Fairmount Tool and Forging Company and typically had Fairmount Cleve (for Cleveland, OH) embossed letters. The jack is definitely incorrect but the Big/Special Six originals are fairly easy to identify (say Studebaker on side) and find. They were made by the Buckeye Jack Company. The Light Six jacks are harder to find (take a tapered round wood handle vs the flat steel one shown in the parts manual). Not sure about the tool bag. It doesn't match the photo or have enough tool slots but who knows.. I know the original Light Six bag I patterned from had a darker trim around the edge and a strap with a metal buckle end. The oil can isn't the right one (the side looks squared off in the photo - should have nice rounded top) but, again, easy to find those. The grease gun, hand crank, tire repair kit, Michelin tire tool and all the wrenches look correct. If you look on the parts manual page I scanned, I had some notes on the wrench end sizes (in today's numbers) in the left margin. By the way, the 90 degree bent wrench with the tapered square ends (which is probably original) was for rotating the floorboard locks - part number 23827 pictured below. Do a little eBay searching and have a little patience and you'll be surprised to find most of what you need. Suggested searches "Studebaker Jack", Fairmount Cleve", "Studebaker Hub Wrench", "Vintage Thumb Oiler", "Vintage Hand Tire Pump". Good luck. Scott

The engine serial number makes that a 1922 EJ Light Six. Scott

Thanks George. A number of the tools came with the car but I had to hunt down a few others. I was lucky to have a fellow Studebaker owner that had an original Studebaker tool bag. In the picture is the proper use of the original Michelin/Budd Disk Wheel tool in question and why such a simple tool was important. You can also see the nut driver on the ground. These wheels were created as a collaborative project between the Budd Stamping Company (Philadelphia, PA) and the Michelin Company (France) as an improvement over the wood spoke wheels and were proposed to the OEMs of that time. Studebaker began offering them as an option in 1920. They became standard equipment in 1922 on the Big Six and remained an option on the Light and Special Sixes. When the car was ordered, the tool kit that was provided was tailored to have the correct tool set for the wheels that came on it (wood, wire, disc). Scott

Here are the disk wheel tools as shown in the parts manual - part numbers 39928 and 39929. Also is the tool kit for my Light Six (different from the Special/Big Six tools previously posted) which includes the two disk wheel tools shown. The Light Six tool kit shares some of the tools with the other models and is shown in the owners manual (I didn't include that since it doesn't apply to your car). You can also see the tool bag which was patterned after an original (including colors) which would be similar to the Special/Big Six bag. Scott

The disk wheel tool was used to install the wheel assembly on to the hub when installing on the car. Tool was inserted into a stud hole in the wheel and the cupped end was place over the stud (concave side down) and the wheel assembly could then be picked up and slid over the stud/hub. Below is the entire tool kit for your car. Scott

The tool on the left in the top picture is correct if you have the Michelin Disc Wheel option. The other two are not part of the vehicle’s tool kit.

Andrew Larder made the one for my Light Six. Pretty easy to make. He did add a pad to keep the rear window from bouncing off the spare tire. He's in Homer, MI http://larderupholstery.com/ Scott

Sold. Thanks Don.

I believe this to be P/N 204990 that I found recently. Nickel is in okay shape, could use some polishing (other side is a bit nicer). $20 plus shipping. Scott

P/N 16981. Found this hiding in a box. $35 plus shipping. Scott

From post further up...I used bronze alloy 954 from McMaster-Carr. Bought the round stock and machined it in my 1923 Dalton lathe (same year as my car so I considered it an "authentic" aftermarket part 😉)

My kingpins were worn at the bottom but the top of the pins and bushings were fine. I turned the bottom of the pins down to true them up and made the lower bushings out of a high alloy bronze. They only come out from the top now but that has no affect on functionality. I don't recall the alloy number but could probably find it if you wanted to go that route.

I wasn't an "old car" owner until I bought this Studebaker back in 2009 from a friend that had it stored in a garage for 30 + years. It had been repainted green over the original black and that paint was starting to flake off . This along with having to do some disassembly to fix a stuck valve, clogged fuel system, repairing parts with disintegrating pot metal, etc. drove me down a path to do a nut and bolt restoration on it (labor of love). Dressed for the era at the Old Car Festival. Although I owned a 1967 GTO in high school, I was into a different style of engine in my younger days

Looks like I posted this in the wrong spot....

How about a moving picture? This video is from 1937 of my local Fire Department in Chesaning, MI. The "story" from the locals is that Henry Ford himself delivered this fire truck to the department in 1935 and Ford used it for some promotional work. It is still owned by the Chesaning-Brady Fire Department. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nB16D2b_PpY You can jump to 3:53 if you don't want the whole story This picture is of the department's first fire truck. The only thing that remains of that is the two side lanterns Prior to the trucks were horses - looks a bit like a marching band to me

I would suggest 6 litres of oil for the engine - same as other Studebakers of the era. Doesn't the transaxle have a fill plug on the side? Just bring the oil level to the bottom of that plug. Scott

Nice twin carb set up!

I did manage to get a "Like" in. Very cool car. Congratulations on your long awaited acquisition. Scott

Matt, Photos of the block/head and gasket for my ‘39 LaSalle with the 1936-1948 322/346 flathead. It has the same issue and I had the same concerns. Explanation was that the added holes were needed for the casting process. I’m not totally convinced with that as you can see perfect alignment between the head and block. I think it had more to do with developing the proper flows throughout the block for cooling to eliminate hot or cold spots. My theory is that the Cadillac engineers then designed the gasket based on that testing. May be a combination of both explanations. Scott

I looked around and could not find them. I saved my originals, straightened them, cleaned them up and re-plated them (copper, then nickel). Definitely a retentive move.

I dug around and found one of the pivot bolt assemblies (46165 in the parts book) and a couple of wedge pieces. I can spin the rib in the center of the pivot off in the lathe and everything will be 3/4”. As far as the wedges, the smaller diameter is 3/4” so again I can just spin them down to a uniform 3/4” and tap the ID. Between the two parts you’ll have what is needed to install a bow support. Scott

These are what I bought at Sam’s Club. I’m happy with the purchase. 5000 lumens, 5000k color. You can link them together if desired. As you can see, I mixed in the 100 watt equivalent 2700k to get a better quality of color. LEDs aren’t so good for the eyes with all the blue light. Scott