Stude Light

Knocking usually is a bearing or piston pin. One thing you might try is just grounding one plug at a time and see if the knock changes tone or intensity. If so, you'll know what cylinder it is. If not, it may be something else. Scott

Todd, One thing that I always notice on flare fittings is the flare nut used. Pictured is what you typically find in the hardware store on the left, an original 20s nut in the center and something I found on eBay on the right. I was also able to find nuts shaped liked the one on the left but as tall as the others so I turned it down on the lathe to look like the center one. It sounds as though I'm a bit like Mr. Harwood as I turned down the one on the right to get an exact match to the center one (hey, I like things to be right and it wasn't slender enough in the middle). Scott https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Brass-Long-Flare-Nut-PartNo-F40008-JonesStephens/162531209387?hash=item25d79d70ab:g:u1UAAOSwCVtcFHbB

1920-22 was a 3 ring piston with an 11/16" piston pin and unbushed. Then sometime in 1922 they switched to a 4 ring piston with a bushed pin. In 1924 they changed to a larger diameter (7/8") piston pin. Wonder if the larger pin design maybe created a problem? Interesting that Egge had the larger pin piston but not the smaller. This could probably fixed with a thicker wall bushing. Regardless, need to find Dave an engine. I know there is a spare engine out there, we just need to find it.

Thanks for the info. I'm not terribly worried as I fully inspected the pistons when rebuilding but I will consider replacing them when I have the time to take the car down. I did have two other sets of cast iron pistons from other Light Six engines. One was like my originals (from a 1922) and looked fine but the other set were different (1924) and several had cracks. I do know where several 1920-mid 23 blocks are but shipping from Australia will be expensive. Scott

What kind of speeds were you two typically pushing your cars too? Kinda makes me think about replacing my original cast iron pistons although the pistons were not the weak link during a competitive 25,000 mile durability test run by General Motors Research on a 1922 Light Six.

Dave, If you don't come up with a complete engine I have a Wagner starter, generator and distributor if needed. My spare 1924 block went to Europe two years ago and is running in a car now. I'll keep my eyes open for one but you may need to buy a car to get one. https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/studebaker/light-six/2147674.html Scott

There were two versions of the OS-1. The one pictured by the OP is the earlier version and came on the Velie 34, Climber S-6 and on the 1920-1922 Studebaker Light Six EJ. I'm not sure if the change came sometime in 1922 or just for the early 1923 Light Six EM models (before changing to the cast iron head). I believe that many of the parts interchange between the two versions (jets, gaskets, float and such) but there are definitely some porting changes and another circuit added. Photo of later model is below. Scott

The quoted post was started by Tim Plas (trap442w30) who inquired, then purchased that 1917 ED Series 18. I had the pleasure of helping Tim out with a few issues to get the car running and loaned him my Illustrated Parts Manual. He was very enthused about trying to get it to the National Studebaker Meet in South Bend last year and was successful in doing so. I was able to meet Tim in person and checked out the car, which was in really nice original condition. We had a few good conversations and he was able to make it about halfway along the tour to downtown South Bend but ran into some fueling issues.. Fast forward to December 2017....Tim passed away very unexpectantly on his 52nd birthday. I was really saddened to hear of his passing, which was announced in the March-April 2018 Antique Studebaker Review. His wife, Joyce, was inquiring of Richard Quinn a value of that car if she decided to sell it. I'm not sure if she did sell it our not but can provide you her email address if you wanted to ask (just PM me). Scott

To be accurate, you should really measure the distance traveled by one revolution of the tire. Just mark a radial line on the tire, push the car until the line is perpendicular to the ground and mark your starting point. Then push until you get one full rotation (when the mark is perpendicular again). Then measure distance traveled. Measuring the tire radius from the ground to the center of the axle is not as accurate as the circumference of the tire doesn't change. However just using the circumference is not completely accurate as there is some very minor skidding that occurs during rotation and will slightly change the rolling circumference. Scott

I agree. So it is bare metal and a bit rusty now. You clean it out real well to bare metal where it will continue to rust as you always get some condensation. Seems like clean it and seal it. In 1932, they didn't have the compounds we have today to properly protect the inside of the tank. Other option is to clean it and keep replacing filters. Scott

This is an excellent solution that works great. Some details in the link below. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/generator.htm My Remy Cutout is fully adjustable but requires a regulated voltage supply to set it up properly. Adjustment is detailed in the Dykes manual. Important so it doesn't cutout inappropriately. Scott

FYI - I talked to Bruce and he said he just sold the car.

1926 Standard Six Duplex Phaeton Dave answered your grounding question Scott

I think I solved it. I started with the shape of the radiator emblem, searched on those which let me to Monroe. Looks like a 1915 Monroe. What do you think?

I'm going to say not a Saxon. Two piece windshield, radiator shape, headlight design/placement, front suspension, hood length/louver, rear fenders are all mis-matched.

From the teens most likely. Sorry about the quality - photo of a photo. Thanks. Scott

Frank, Light Six production was from 1920 - 1924, so you have a different model. Picture or serial number would help you to identify it. Scott

Another touring car. I am a bit concerned on the two main design, especially with an aluminum block but can find very little info on that V8. I was looking for someone with experience with this engine to help alleviate my fears. Thanks for the advice though. Looking at it tonight. Scott

I am considering buying a 1923 Olds47 with the 233.7 cu in V8. Just wondering if anyone can share driving characteristics of this car and experience with the V8 and driveline. I have a nice driving 1923 6 cylinder Studebaker Light Six Touring car but it doesn't drive as nice as say a late 20's car. I'm just wondering how much the V8 changes things for an early 20s car. Thanks for any input. Scott

Very interesting post with all the opinions. I work for GM so have a bit of insight into the EVs and AVs. Recall GM did build the EV1s back in the 90s to test the market and the owners really liked them. I thought the Volt was a good idea - EV range for a short commute but no range anxiety since it has an ICE to make electricity to keep going. The Bolt is the long range EV only vehicle that is made for the commuter. Tesla went after a niche market - high end, performance EVs and found a good customer base. They build some nice cars. Building a profitable EV for the masses is a bit more difficult when you compete against ICEs which already has all the infrastructure. In the end, EVs will find a market place, as will AVs but this will all take a lot of time. I live out in farmland and doubt I'll see EVs take over the roads where I live before I die. I'm sure China and some other countries will see a greater number before the US. As far as Tesla the company, I think it's overvalued in the stock market. Their stock value is certainly not based on sound business principles nor return on investment. As mentioned before - lots of investment dollars and hype. I recall seeing that EVs currently are less than 1/10 of 1% of the vehicles on the road today in the US.

Craig, EVs require a significantly higher level of ampacity than what you would find in the parking lots you mentioned. For example, taking a Chevy Bolt from a 20% charge (50 mile range), to a 100% charge (240 mile range) would take about 48 hours on a typical 15 amp/120 v outlet. Using a DC fast charge only takes an hour to go 20% to 80% and another 30 minutes if you want that last 20% to get to a full charge. Scott

Tesla makes really nice cars and they are fast. I've driven several. Tesla has also done a good job integrating large touch screen technology similar to the smart phone industry. The vehicles are not rocket science though and other OEMs could make similar cars. Most car companies are in business to make money and in 15 years Tesla has failed to do that and has used investor money to function. This may be why others haven't followed suite....need to make a profit. Their stock price is all based on hype. I guess I just don't understand Wall Street.

Need a price. I see pictures in the other post

Nothing wrong with standard hardware, even worn. That engine doesn't produce enough torque to shear three worn out bolts unless they are really bad. I replaced my joints with some "new" ones that were probably 40 years old (NOS). The rubber feel left them years ago but after 1000 miles, they still look pretty good. I was thinking about buying some material and making some spares last winter but never got around to it, so maybe this winter. My touring season is coming to an end soon. I think I have a few of the wavy washers laying around. How many did you need? Scott

Well, actually a pre-1933 automobile event. I speak of the Old Car Festival at Greenfield Village in Dearborn Michigan taking place September 8-9. https://www.thehenryford.org/current-events/calendar/old-car-festival/ A driving Car Show in an historic setting. Car shows are okay but they are often like an outdoor museum with a bunch of static displays. At the OCF most of the cars get driven around the campus so not only do you get to see them, talk with the owners but you get to hear them run and see them drive. Stick your thumb out and more often than not you'll catch a ride. Lots of interesting activities. It is really a fun and worthwhile event. Scott