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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. I have a number of disassembled Stewart speedometers, mostly from Studebakers. I probably have what you need but I would need to match up to something. Maybe a picture and some measurements? Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  2. Dave, I check the thread pitch again, but this time used my reading specs when looking at the thread pitch gauge - 16 TPI is correct. My mistake. Mine is just the straight thread one, Robert has the cool "cincher" design. Scott
  3. I have a lot of parts for the Light Six if the new owner needs them. Engine looks to be the correct one for the car. Engine serial number can be found on the block above the starter drive output - should read EM xxxxxx. If you look closer at the distributor it should read Remy 626A. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  4. I had my puller custom fit to one of the hubs I had off. Although there is alot of engagement on a fine pitch thread, having the cinch option is a really good idea to take away all fears of damaging the hub. When you get to pulling hard on a couple of large wrenches, you start thinking about the pressure on the threads. So if you have one built, I would recommend adding Robert's cinch option. Scott
  5. Matti, I have some of what you need but Michigan is a long way from Finland. I trust you are looking for parts in Europe somewhere, but if you are entertaining shipping from the US, I have 1) Rear axle housing with ring and pinion and differential 2) Rear axles (2) 3) Front and rear wood spoke wheels and rims, but these are from a 1922 Light Six and take a 32x4 tire (won't be original but very close) 4) Brake drums (come with rear wheels) 5) One internal expanding brake/lining Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  6. This is the unit I had a coworker build for $75. I can ask if he is interested in building another. It fits my 1923 Light Six with disc wheels and fits a set of 1922 Light Six spoke wheels I have. Scott
  7. I found a parking brake drum and band but it doesn't have a p/n on it so I'm not sure it fits a '27 Dictator. It has an internal spline and the output is set up for a u-joint. Maybe someone can identify it. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  8. Or I can take some pictures and measurements so you can have one built. Scott
  9. Dave, I had one made for my Light Six - 2-1/2" x 18 on the thread size. You are welcome to borrow it ~$10 to ship it one way within US. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  10. Rod, I have male ones similar to what John has pictured - with straight ears. I also have some with an "S" shape to it (ears are curved). Plenty of spares. Also did find a female style, but the thread size is fairly odd at 7/16-20. If John can't help you out, let me know. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  11. Rod, If you don't have any luck, I have a number of windshield wing nuts for Studebakers from the 1920s. The bracket looks very much the same also. Perhaps they might work out for you. Do you have a thread size? Male or female? If I have something that matches I can take a few photos and see what you think. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  12. See "Buy/Sell" for a set of 48 spokes, enough for 4 wheels, that are for a Studebaker. 18 inch diameter so, probably a 1925 or later. http://forums.aaca.org/f119/spokes-18-wheels-set-4-a-302642.html Scott
  13. Selling a full set of spokes for wood wheels. I believe these are for a Studebaker (Mid to late 20's). The individual spoke length is about 8-1/8 inches, not including the dowel on the outside end. The wheel diameter in the photo (less the dowel length) is 18 inches and the dowel diameter is 5/8". The spokes are numbered for ease of assembly. Photo shows a single spoke and what one set of twelve looks like. 48 spokes are included - asking price is $250. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  14. I just bought two from Steven Munts about 2 weeks ago (~$40/pair). He was telling me that he was liquidating the entire inventory very soon, but you might give him a try. Steven Munts Custom Antique Parts 509-892-9258 Scott
  15. I have a few steering wheels. I believe the one on the left is for a Special Six (steel spoke attachment is captured in the wood), the center is for a Light Six EM (steel spokes screwed to the wood from the back side) and the right side is just the wood that has separated (just needs glued back together - no missing wood). The center hubs and spokes in the lower part of the photo are aluminum. I believe the one on the left is for an earlier Light Six EJ and not sure about the one on the right. I don't know if any of these can be of use, but if so, let me know. As best I can tell the wood is walnut. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  16. Actually they are completly smooth on top and look like they may press in. Not a very good picture but all I have currently. Scott
  17. I have a Light Six Touring car and am wondering if anyone can help me out. The storm curtain rods fit into a hole in the top side of the doors. Surrounding this hole is a small nickel plated brass trim ring. I would like to re-nickel these rings but have no idea how to remove them without damaging them. So, my questions: Has anyone removed these successfully and if so, how? Are there replacements available? My other option is just to polish them up before painting. Thanks for a reply. Scott :confused:
  18. That's the great thing about this forum...a little bantering of ideas back and forth between some really nice folks, sometimes straying into other subjects (or maybe the ditch), but in the end we all have a similar passion. Scott
  19. Okay, so I knew better than to comment on the ZDP/ZDDP issue! But now that I dug my hole and will get the wrath of others, I will have to comment further. I think one thing we can all agree upon is that for a reciprocating engine and particularly our old engines without oil and air filters, the best thing you can do is to change your oil very often. I have practiced this in every engine I own or operate and have had exceptional results with regards to longevity. Cars, trucks, lawnmowers, tractors , aircraft (many of which still do not have engine oil filters) – frequent oil changes = good practice. And today, oils are usually recycled so you can't feel bad about using a bit more than the average guy. <O:p My problem, like many others, is that I have limited resources. Constant oil changes with expensive "specialty blends" or additives can get costly so I wanted to make sure I really needed these. I started reading about ZDP but found much of the information was put out by companies wanting to sell additives and specialty oils and had nothing more than a good story. This information was then repeated in many forums.<O:p I'm a test engineer at GM and am constantly bombarded by opinions and anecdotal stories to which I request the data to back them up. So with the ZDP issue I decided to dig deeper to get the data. I was able to obtain copies of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) publications that have the history of engine oil development, the need for additives, the introduction of ZDP in the 1940's, continued work to balance oil performance with fuel economy /emissions and test results to back up the conclusions. In addition to the paper listed earlier there are many related SAE publications dealing with ZDP and tappet wear (821570, 560017, 852133, 861516 to name a few). These are written by the industry experts that have no ties to selling product, but determine what is appropriate for proper oil performance to ensure that the consumer is protected by the standards set. I have read the papers listed and would gladly post them so people could come to their own conclusions, but the papers are copyrighted by the SAE (you have to purchase them). The oil additive issue is actually rather complex as it is not just about lifter wear but also related to bearing wear, antioxidant (corrosion protection), etc. and ZDP specifically has traits related to both zinc and phosphorus levels that have a level of interaction with the other oil additives which are also improving with time.<O:p I contacted Mr. Robert Olree, who published several of these SAE papers and served as Chairman of the International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC). ILSAC is the governing body which has been empowered with the task of establishing minimum performance standards for the lubricants used in today’s gas engine passenger cars and light duty trucks. I asked him about the ZDP issue and he gave me some information and sent me a summary he had put together which I can post. Mr. Olree worked for GM as a technical expert in the oils group. He was co-author of publication 2004-01-2986 which dealt specifically with understanding how much ZDP is required to prevent wear in modern and older engines. The conclusion in this report, based on extensive research and testing, is that 0.08% phosphorus (in the form of zinc dithiophosphate) was more than enough to protect engines old and new. It also suggested levels of 0.05% phosphorus and even as low as 0.03%, when used with other additives and phosphated cams (for initial break-in) could be acceptable. Keep in mind that these tests are based on the high contact loading of the newer flat tappet engines beginning in the 1950s and particularly from the1960s-1980s. The pre-war engines had much weaker valve springs, lower lifts and much lower contact stresses at the cam/tappet interface and ran with no ZDP oil additives in their day. The current ILSAC GF-5 API SN spec is 0.08% phosphorus maximum. The sequence wear tests were specified to pass at 0.06% phosphorus. In conclusion - I'm really not buying or selling that you should or shouldn’t use higher levels of ZDP (ZDDP) in your cars - just offering information. The amount of data I reviewed convinced me to spend my money on more frequent oil changes and not worry about ZDP levels causing any damage. If you think it is wise to add ZDP or buy specialty oils with ZDP, I'm fine with that. Just don't add too much ZDP as the testing reported in SAE publication 2004-01-2986 indicates that phosphorus levels of 0.14% increased long term wear and at 0.20% phosphorus, camshaft spalling begins to occur. <O:pRespectfully submitted, Scott Engine Oil Mythology 2-2007.pdf
  20. With regards to zinc dithiophosphate....I thoroughly investigated this and, after reading SAE Publication 2004-01-2986 ("How much ZDP is enough?") and talking to one of the authors who is a lubricant technical specialist at GM Powertrain, I am thoroughly convinced that no harm will come to a flat tappet engine running the newest API rated oils. Scott
  21. Oh, I was thinking the standard hex nut on something like a Light Six/Standard Six. No wonder why the wrench wasn't listed as a standard tool for those models - it was made to fit the nut style you have. It just lists the EK, EL, EP, EQ - makes sense. Scott
  22. Virgil, I have several Special Six and Big Six bumpers and brackets and a "1920s aftermarket" bumper that might fit a Light Six. I'm not sure what might fit your Dictator, but it wouldn't be original. Not sure how close you are to Mid - Michigan but you are welcome to experiment with what I have. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  23. Dennis, I suggest you just grind down an 1-1/4" wrench. It doesn't take much torque to overdo your packing so you don't need much wrench material. Scott
  24. The best I could do is a scan from the illustrated parts catalog. See part number 20461. Scott
  25. I have several wheel rims but I'm not sure which models they are from. With a photo and some dimensions I might be able to help you out. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
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