Stude Light

Oh, if you aren't looking for an original cap but one in which to mount a motometer, then again, you can find them either on eBay or Restoration Supply. Back in the day, folks would often just drill a hole in an original cap and install a motometer. Scott

According to the info I found, acetylene dibromide has an odor similar to chloroform. So the system would need to be sealed to prevent any odor leakage.

I guess no different than the "all new" electric vehicle industry.

The load distribution looks lots better! You could always turn the vehicle you are hauling around if you start running out of room behind the axles. That will center most of the weight (engine/trans) between the two trailer axles. Scott

Not that this is going to help with VL's issue but it bothers me to see mis-information. Jack is correct and that Serra Toyota article is wrong. The trailer sway control on the Tundra (and most all the other manufacturers) uses the inertial measurement unit (basically, accelerometers) in the truck's electronic brake control module to detect roll and yaw rates in the truck caused by the trailer swaying. The trailer has to have enough sway and inertia to affect the truck. After a few oscillations are detected, brakes on the individual wheel corners on the truck (not individual trailer brakes) are applied to counteract the trailer sway and will generally slow the truck a bit at the same time. This is all part of the vehicle's stability system. An anti-sway hitch on a trailer is much more effective as it prevents the sway in the first place. The vehicle's stability system helps to mitigate the sway, keeping it from getting excessive and causing the driver to lose control. So, the trailer hitch is a preventative while the truck system is a treatment. Scott

Victoria Lynn you have a rim leak, valve stem leak or a puncture. Air should never leak out of the tire. Based on you loosing pressure during traveling and the age of the rims, I would guess a rim leak that may not show up when the tire is sitting still. I would suggest having the tires sealed to the rims. 4 pages of comments in three days - you know how to pick the topics!

VL, If you ever consider an upgrade to your hitch in the future, I bought this Equal-i-zer hitch and really like how well it performs for both load leveling and trailer sway. Although my trailer is a 10,000# enclosed, I went with a bit more safety margin on the hitch. Money well spent. You could get away with a lower rated one (10K#) and save some money. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Equal-i-zer/EQ37140ET.html

Kevin and his Superlative Six comes through!!! He was able to wet his dashboard down and the wood graining popped out. He snapped these photos of his original 1923 Light Six walnut wood grained dash (posted in case anyone else wants them for reference). Thanks again kmstrade for reminding me of this car. Scott

Typically tires fail due to heat which is generated from all the flexing that occurs as it rolls and the patch of tread that contacts the ground moves around the circumference. Both the tread and sidewalls flex constantly and make heat. The sidewalls flex the most and generate most of the heat. I would recommend Load E rated tires which have an 80 psi inflation pressure. With the higher pressures you get stiffer sidewalls which flex less and make less heat. Generally the maximum tire weight capacity is increased with Load E vs the lower rated Load D (60psi) or even lower Load C rated tires. As far as brand....sometimes its just a crap shoot. It all comes down to quality control for both material and processing. In general, tires made in the US have a higher quality control process but that doesn't necessarily mean that they will all be "good" tires. Depends on the day and if the operator of the equipment is following the control practices, if there are checks in the system, etc. Sometimes there will be batches that are better than others. This is really common with off-shore manufacturers. Couple this with how people use their trailers: total load, unbalanced front/rear axles or side to side, not checking inflation pressures constantly, towing speed, ambient temps, tire age and you see the reason that everyone has a different story on experiences with tires. Made in the US, Load E and 7 year replacements will give you your best shot at trouble free driving. Sometimes the only way to find a US made Load E tire is to go to light truck tires (LT2xx/75 R1x) as Rusty mentions above, but even those fail at times (had one fail on my motorhome). Good luck. Scott

I was going through some stuff this weekend and came across this. It'll take a little sanding to get it smooth but there's about an inch of bakelite to the top of the cap before you'll run out of material. Scott

Thanks Dan, Every picture helps. Scott

Yes, with a domed top and finger ridges. You can see it on this original photo.

Hi Bob, That's the one in my car so definitely not for sale The lock is an Eagle. I think I have a spare Eagle lock and key that will fit this switch. I believe Eagle was used in all the Remy switches in the Light Sixes....at least 1922-24. The trans had a matching key to the ignition, so it would make sense if you have an Eagle trans key. There are several disassembled switch assemblies in those boxes. Make sure you check in the smaller boxes inside the totes. You can probably assemble one good one but less the levers as there are none that aren't broken. You can always round off the broken part and use as a stubby switch. It should still work. Scott

Hi Gary, The Motometer was not an original part on the car so considering it is an aftermarket add on, you can consider either finding an original 1920's part (eBay or someone in the forum) or just but a new reproduction part (Restoration Supply Company and others). As for the top bow clamps, this is what you are looking for. These are off my Light Six but would be almost the same for your Special Six. Many makes used this design so if you keep your eye out on eBay, they come up occasionally. The distance from the bolt to the bottom and the overall height are usually the difference in the various cars but generally you can make one fit even it isn't an exact match for your car. Scott

I actually know Anita and Kevin as I used to work with them at GM's Desert Proving Grounds in Mesa, AZ before it was closed down. Although I haven't seen their car in person, I believe that dash has succumbed to the typical rusting as the original paint applique was not as durable as the body paints. I'll email mail them and see if there are remnants of the original finish. Thanks for reminding me of their car. Scott

I'm planning to wood grain my dashboard (1923 Light Six) but I only have photos of an original 1920 Light Six dashboard which had a Mahogany finish. In 1922, Studebaker changed to a walnut grain finish. I believe the Light Six, Special Six and Big Six all would have the same wood grain design so any of those models from 1922 on would suffice. So if anyone has an unrestored dashboard that still shows the original wood graining, I would really appreciate if you could post a photo. My concern is more about the grain style than color. I believe they used a straight grain walnut vs a butt or burl grain design but not sure. Thank you. Scott

23-24 EM should have the black face design Scott

And in under 24 hours!!

The Light Six and Special/Big Six engines are totally different. For the Light Six aluminum head block, the engines from 1920 - mid 1923 are all the same. Mid 1923-1924 have the cast iron block but will interchange (as an assembly) with the aluminum head design but the fuel supply needs to be relocated to the left side of the engine and you will need the intake and exhaust manifold assemblies from the newer design. In 1925 (Standard Six), the engines changed again and will not interchange. I'll let you know if I come across something that will work. I know of a couple in Austrailia but that would be an expensive option from a shipping cost standpoint. Scott

My understanding is that some parts of the cars were built in other plants, then shipped to Walkerville where various localized content was added to the cars which now made them British built and allowed them to be imported into other countries with a reduction in import tariffs. The details of this practice are mostly lost so it is difficult to say just what the practice was for each model. I'm sure Studebaker would take every advantage possible to reduce the price of their vehicles so it would make sense to use this process wherever possible. Another thing that I don't know is just how much content did you need. Could you build a car in South Bend or Detroit, ship it to Walkerville and install the seats and call it British built? I'm sure they had some rules. This definitely explains why the exported cars have content that was different from their domestic counterparts. I've sent a lot of parts globally and end up with photos of people's cars and I've seen differences in bodies, tops, windshields, colors, engines, etc. on these export cars. So to answer your question...I don't know. Scott

Hi Bernie, Yes, Dave got in touch with me. I'm sure he is eager for the arrival of the car. Besides the long boat ride, he'll have to deal with customs which, hopefully, will go smoothly. I do not know what the number on the bulkhead was for. It was probably used to track the bodies but its significance has long been lost to history. My Budd built body had a tag on it with a number but, again, no meaning as all that documentation has been destroyed long ago. I was finally able to locate the approximate location where the Walkerville Studebaker plant was located...not much record of that. The building was torn down a long time ago but it is where all the right hand drive cars were built and was acquired by Studebaker in 1910 from Everitt-Metzger-Flanders and supplied all the cars for the British Empire until it was closed after WWII which is when they opened the Hamilton, Ontario plant (1947). Glad you were able to collect some history and all the pieces for the car (folding top in particular) and pass the torch to another enthused owner. Good luck on the other projects have fun with that Lagonda. Scott

The Cadillac adds a nice touch!

And both still looking good.

This is one of the most interesting threads I have come across, especially for history buffs like me. It covers the old manufacturing plants and, as I don't recall seeing it in this forum before, I thought I would post it. It may take a little searching around but there is probably something for everyone. http://www.atdetroit.net/forum/messages/6790/39227.html?1155003502 Scott

1935 Röhr Type "F" Cabriolet. I had my opportunity....