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Stude Light

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  1. This may help - you can cross reference some of the part numbers
  2. I thought I saw a post earlier this week (before the site went down) regarding tools for a 1916. My parts manual lists the tools in the kit but no pictures - sorry. Scott
  3. I'm still looking for an original part - I'm sure someone has one they are willing to part with. It is the only original part missing from my car. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  4. I spoke to Dave a while back about new kingpins and bushings for my Light Six. He didn't have anything in stock but said he would be happy to machine some up if I provided him some old ones to use as a template. I have since removed mine and found that I just need new lower bushings made up so if you need some decent kingpins to use as a guide I can loan mine out. Let me know. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  5. Hi Sean, I bought Mike's inventory out a couple of years ago. I still have some items left....what are you looking for? Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  6. Hi Dan! Original style hose would be red/orange colored. The clamp on the left is the original style and the one on the right is the reproduction parts you can get today. Hose and repro clamps available from Restoration Supply Co. Restoration Supply Company Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  7. Depending on the model, you either had no wiper, a hand operated wiper or an automatic wiper. All the automatic wiper motors were vacuum operated. No electric ones. Scott
  8. Oops, I meant to say generator - it was late last night. I'll change the post
  9. In case you need the part numbers for the generator to help in your search....the Studebaker part number is 15646 and the Wagner model number is E.M. 114. According to my early parts manuals, the 1915 EC Six is the the only year and model that Studebaker used this generator on. Good luck. Scott
  10. According to the parts manual, the automatic wiper motor (body) for a 1924 EK is p/n 200641. The illustration looks like the cylindrical Trico design. I think I may have one if you are interested but will need you to measure the distance bewteen the mounting bolts. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  11. It looks like a 4 cylinder distributor so maybe a 1918-1919 Light Four? Excepting the Wagner distributor and possibly the main housing, looks like most of the other parts would fit a 1920-1924 Light Six, 1925 - 1926 Standard Six and the 1927- Dictator Six. Scott
  12. Tom, You could try Egge Machine Company. Probably won't be cheap ($1000 +) but I'm sure they can find you a solution. I think I have a set of used 0.020" over Light Six pistons but I'm not sure they are the same bore (3.125" standard) as your Standard Six. I'll go dig them up and let you know exact size and condition. Scott
  13. I have a Locomobile Steam Engine that has been disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt. It has been tested running on air pressure and works great. Looking for offers. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com 248-431-9904
  14. Gary, I show the outer handles as p/n 38523 and the inner as p/n 38746. I still have most of what is pictured and could try to match up four inners and four outers. The outers have a hard rubber overmold around a nickel plated brass handle. Most of the rubber portions are age cracked though (as pictured). Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  15. Gary, I have a couple of visors. I think the clear glass one is from a Light Six but not sure about the smoked glass one (they are different in width and mounting location). Clear glass part is very clean, smoked glass part has some rot that will need repair. Are there some other dimensions I can measure? Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  16. Ray, I have a tail light from a 1924 Big Six. It has a similar design face. The location of the mounting studs would have to be modified and it will need a new lens for the license plate. Let me know if you are interested. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  17. I have a robe rail if you are still looking. This is from a Studebaker Light Six. First picture is how it looks on the car and the second is the part I have. Scott smrdeza@lentel.com
  18. I just realized I forgot to include the slinger in the first photo. It would go on the right side of the shaft and slips over the diameter with the keyway and is smaller than the major diameter of the shaft. After installing the slinger, with the cup pointed towards the center of the shaft, you then install the keyway and pulley. The slinger fits into the recess shown on the second photo which captures the oil and it is then drained back into the engine through the hole seen. It exits a hole that is located under the bushing in the last photo (can't be seen). There are other holes on the back side of the aluminum bracket, one which can be seen, which are used to direct oil into the cross-grooved bushing for lubrication. Side note: The earlier model Light Sixes (1920-1922) had a different number of teeth on the sprocket (14), all the later versions had 15 teeth, so if you ever replace that part you need to ensure you end up with the correct one otherwise your engine timing will suffer severly. Scott
  19. I took a few pictures of a spare set of parts I have (broken bracket) so you have an idea what is there. This one had a washer under the nut holding on the pulley to ensure the slinger is captured between the shoulder on the shaft and the pulley. In reading the service manual, apparently they had an issue that would allow you to bottom the nut on the threads before fully seating the pulley on the shaft which would allow the slinger to not spin appropriately. Let me know if you have any other questions. Scott
  20. <O:pI reassembled my Light Six unit not long ago and, looking at your photos, it appears to be the same design. The aluminum adjustment bracket does retain the brass bushing the shaft rides in. That bushing is held in with a slight press fit and a small pin. The shaft has a single diameter along its length and is stepped down on each end and threaded. Without a pulley or sprocket it slides right through the bushing. The chain sprocket is retained by a keyway and a nut threaded on the end of the shaft. The rear face of the sprocket rides directly on the face of the bushing which prevents it from moving rearward. The pulley is on the opposite end which also contains a slinger which is sandwiched between the shoulder on the shaft (since thread diameter is smaller) a washer and the pulley. A nut is threaded on the end of the shaft which retains the pulley. If memory serves, the washer is there to ensure there is enough compression on the slinger since I recall a double step in the design. Without the added compression the shaft may rotate inside the slinger. I think that the slinger had a slight cupping to it so was only to be installed one way. It slings the oil into a larger machined diameter in the bracket. There is a drain hole in the bottom of that grove that takes the oil back inside the engine. Your shaft may leak due to several issues: </O:p <O:p1) Bushing is too worn – you should be able to feel a lot of slop when moving your pulley up and down 2) Slinger is installed the wrong way 3) Slinger is not being compressed (doesn’t spin) and a washer needs added 4) Drain back hole is plugged </O:p <O:pMy guess is that it is #4. That groove and hole gets gunked up with dirt and oil.</O:p> <O:pAfter removing the short driveshaft going to the water pump, you should be able to hold the pulley and unscrew the nut on the end and slide the pulley and slinger off and clean it up. You can clean the crud out of the groove and take a small drill bit to clean out the drain back hole. This can all be done without taking off the timing chain cover. </O:p <O:pI have a spare aluminum bracket with a good bushing but one side of the flange is broken off. You may be able to use it for the bushing. </O:p <O:pGood Luck, Scott
  21. After a bit more research on my 1923 Light Six parts, I believe the disk wheels were originally painted black but the hubs were painted red. Scott
  22. Contact Jason Smith. He is located in Grand Ledge, Michigan and has machined these out of an aluminum block. Jason Smith Advanced Electrical Rebuilders www.aerrebuild.com 1-866-228-0218<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  23. I know better than to get into oil discussions but what the heck..... If you don't have any yellow metal (copper, brass, bronze) in your transmission or axle, GL-4 lubricant is a much better lubricant than GL-1 for spiral bevel gears, spur gears, helical gears, bearings, etc. due to the anti-wear additives. It is not used for hypoid gears. GL-4 will corrode yellow metals though, so if you have any yellow metal bushings or brass synchronizers in the transmission you'll want to stick with GL-1. My Light Six rear axle has no yellow metals so GL-4 is the way to go. The transmission on the other hand has brass bushings for the gear to shaft interfaces so I'll stick with a GL-1 lubricant for it. As far a viscosity goes, I would recommend 90wt for both axle and trans. With a non-synchronized transmission it is best to double clutch to speed match the gears to avoid clash. It comes down to technique....vehicle speed vs gear vs engine speed vs timing. When you change oil viscosity it changes how quickly the input gear and counter shaft slows down. This will usually require a change in your timing technique. Scott
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