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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. Okay, I went out to the barn, gathered up my original running boards and gave them a thorough going over and a little belt sanding. Here is what I found: 1) I am extremely confident that my running boards are original parts and they are in such nice shape that I decided not to repalce them with the ash ones I started making up and instead will clean, sand and repaint them. 2) They are indeed hard yellow pine. Thanks for the answer B. I stand corrected. Scott
  2. I really doubt they were ever replaced as they are the tongue and groove design and had a strip of original linoleum trapped between the frame and running board. The holes and cutouts are quite exact. Now I'm more curious so I will take my belt sander out to the barn and find out for sure and will post my findings when complete. I have all the original floorboards (that I'm re-using), so I'll check them too. Scott
  3. My 1923 Light Six original running boards are in pretty good shape still, although I decided to replace them. They are definitely hardwood and either oak or ash (hard to tell the two apart unless you plane or sand a good size section). Most of the literature I have read says that ash was the predominant hardwood used at the time. Scott
  4. You should be able to pick that up at a good lumberyard or your local milling company. If you want the tongue and groove design you will have to find that at a custom milling shop. I just biscuit joined my ash wood planks. Scott
  5. Paul, Wheel looks great - all that effort paid off nicely. I have disc wheels on my '23 so so my painting task is a lot easier than yours. I started with the engine and just finished the frame. Scott
  6. My 1923 Light Six Tourer looked to be original. I found that the seats were originally leather but the side panels for the seats were a simulated leather as were the door panels. Scott
  7. If you have a picture of the door handles you are looking for, I can dig through mine and see if I have a match. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  8. I have a few caps in varying states. Most of the best ones I have already sold but I still have a few. I still have the 2nd, 4th and 5th from the left in the photos. If you are looking for reproductions, you can try Vintageand Classic Reproductions - Studebaker Parts Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  9. According to my parts manual, the 1923 Light Six was avalable with wheels using either an 8 or 12 hub bolt design (p/n's 120015 and 120527 respectively for fronts and 120918 and 120533 respectively for rears). It shows a 30"x 3-1/2" wheel (23" rim), but the 31"x 4" would also fit. My '23 Light Six has disc wheels and also shows a 30"x 3-1/2" wheel but my car has 32"x 4-1/2" wheels on it now. Have a number of spare parts if you're missing something. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  10. My understanding is that the wood spoked wheels were painted black but accented with red pinstriping (the only color on the body other than black). Scott
  11. A friend of mine has a 1914 Model T Two-Seat Speedster (has the oval windscreen for the driver) for sale. The engine, chassis, driveline and wheels are all original. The body is reproduction parts. It is lin pristine condition and ocated in Michigan. He is currently out of town and should be back on Tuesday. I can post a picture and contact info when he gets back if you think you would be interested. Scott
  12. I searched through my Alemite fittings and found the following that all have the 1919 patent date. Let me know if you are interested in any of them. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  13. Water pump nut wrench - hard to find originals.
  14. Gary, Yes. Just putting everything together. Trying to figure best shipping and will email total. Scott
  15. I have several like this. These came on 1920s Studebakers. Most have broken handles though, but I recall that someone made some reproduction handles. Regardless, It doesn't look like they will work for your application. Scott
  16. Would you have a picture of what you are looking for? Scott
  17. Try "1937 Studebaker -fits -cover -mats -photo" (you can keep adding as needed) Scott
  18. Gary, Wow, looks like you ran yours over with the lawn mower! I did find a really nice original part (p/n 30321). Send me an e-mail. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  19. I probably have one. What is the thread OD and pitch? Scott
  20. No wheel centers, but I have an ammeter and oil pressure gauge. Send me an e-mail and I'll send you some photos. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  21. This subject has many opinions as can be found from a search in the AACA forum. I believe that this is the last discussion in the Studebaker specific forum. http://forums.aaca.org/f126/28-president-8-a-301944.html
  22. As far as gasoline goes, it was discovered that tetraethyl lead prevented spark knock in higher compression engines that began to be manufactured for auto racing and high performance aircraft in the mid to late 1920s. These engines had much higher compression ratios than the typical cars of the day. As time progressed, engines continued to have higher compression ratios, increased combustion and exhaust gas temperatures and higher valve spring rates were required. This caused the valves to micro weld themselves to the softer valve seats and presented itself as valve seat erosion. It was found that an added benefit of the tetraethyl lead was to create an interface (some refer to it as cushioning) between the valves and seats to prevent micro welding. The typical engines used in the pre-war cars don't really need the lead content as the lower compression ratios (usually less than 8:1), weaker valve springs and lower overall exhaust valve temperatures do not cause the micro welding problem. It wasn't until the higher performance engines came along that the lead content became important. Other additives replaced the lead to prevent the spark knock and hardened valve seats were added, but for older (post-war - 1970?) higher horsepower/compression engines, you should add the lead substitutes to prevent that erosion. That all said, a 1930 President 8 engine will be fine without the lead/lead substitute due to its lower compression ratio and power output. Scott
  23. I purchased a service manual from Faxon for my Light Six. Excellent quality reprint and well worth the money. I do not believe that they have any Studebaker Parts Manuals prior to 1925. If there is something you want looked up for the earlier years, just let me know. Scott
  24. I received several Illustrated Parts Manuals as a gift with a large number of parts I purchased. The manuals cover the years from 1913 - 1925. I may be wrong, but I don't think a lot of them survived as I have yet to see any for sale, either originals or reprints. I have considered getting them copied, but I would have to get the bindings cut off and compromise the originals. The books have illustrations of many of the car parts and has a corresponding comprehensive listing of each part, part number, its application and quantity.
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