Rockabilly Hooligan

OK. I am confused. Where does the flexplate you show mount and connect to transmission? Behind this cover

Got it. How rare does these break/crack and cause noise when rotating at low RPMs?

Hello...I believe I might have an bad/cracked Flexplate. I purchased a new PRW SFI Flexplate P/N 1845505. Before I bought it, I spoke to the PRW tech support and verified the P/N to be for my transmission. When it arrived, the the label states 1968-90 Olds V8 260, 307, 350, 400, 403 166 Teeth OEM T-450, T-400 compatible. Have not dropped transmission and removed old flexplate to compare. Before I do I like to make sure new one will fit/work. Do you know if this flex plate will fit my transmission and work with my starter? Thanks

Maybe "Jack rabbit starts" was not the best choice or words. I accelerated the car from stand still/low speeds up to 40-50 MPH and back down several times, loading the engine in spurts.

Hello Everyone, I appreciate everyone's concern and suggestions. I agree. I am not starting nor running car at this time. The last time I drove the car to a another mechanic friend #2 whom adjusted/tuned the carb, the engine smoke greatly decreased and I believe the rings have set for the most part. My other friend #1 who is a professional mechanic and helped me rebuild the engine thinks it could be a cracked flexplate since I was running the engine very hard doing jack rabbit starts and stops trying to set the rings. The last time I started engine I put a sethoscope all around the engine block listening to each cylinder and the rattling noise appears to be coming from the rear engine/flexplate area He suggested that before we drop the pan and disturb the rear main seal that we drop the transmission and check the flexplate and driveshaft connection at his shop that has a car lift. If that is good than Plan B is to drop the Pan and check bearings/crankshaft. His shop is full right now and waiting on him to free up space and time for us trailer car to his shop. When he comes over to pick-up car he will hear first hand the noise and can hopefully confirm it is not bearing related. Will inform everyone what we find when take her back to his shop Regards Erol

Thanks for response. When you say " grounding plug " are referring to dis-connecting plug from distributor so it does not fire?

Hello Everyone, Need some of your expert Olds 371 knowledge. My friend and I recently rebuilt my 1958 Olds 88 371. On initial startup engine sounded good but smoked a lot (Moly rings?). Too eliminate smoking I Rebuilt carb, replaced fuel pump, changed oil, changed plugs. my first fuel pump leaked fuel into oil pan but I did not drive more than 100 miles until I replaced pump and oil. Hoping it did not mess up my bearings. Engine starts, idles, and runs strong just knocking. Oil Pressure has always been 30-40PSI. Was able to finally able to set rings for most part and does not smoke as much. Engine friend says I still need to put more "hard" miles on engine to completely set Moly rings. Compression is all good in each cylinder. My engine now has a knocking/rattling sound at idle and appears to be getting worse the more I start it up and idle her. When I rev the engine it appears to go away (or at least less noticeable). I listened to engine block with stethoscope and did not hear any different or louder noises from cylinder to cylinder and noise appears to be coming from the lower rear engine/ front transmission area. One of my friend thinks its "thrust bearing". Another friend thinks it might be transmission related. I pulled the starter and flywheel cover to check to see if flywheel is loose or cracked but and all bolts are tight. I also verified very little flywheel play/movement (1/4"?). Before I drop oil pan to see if bearings are loose/damaged, could the knocking/rattling sound be something in transmission? Any suggestion besides before I drop pan and check out bearings Thanks Erol

Hello...Looking Olds 371 heads. The part numbers should be 571869 or571870. Thanks