Stude Light

😮 I hate getting shocked by plug wires! Had a nerve conduction velocity test once - that was horrible. Constant zapping. I’m like “Okay already, I’ll talk” . One suggestion would be to use needle nose pliers with an insulated grip AND make up a ground wire that can be clipped to the pliers and the chassis.

If it’s just the same four cylinders then look for: - Carbon tracks causing arcing in cap - Bad wires - Bad plugs If it varies on which cylinders, it could be any electrical component: - Points - Condenser - Cap - Rotor (carbon track or gap) - Coil or power to it - Wires - Plugs I would suggest cost free testing first: 1) Running it in a pitch black environment and look for any arcing 2) Dwell meter and look for bouncing 3) Volt meter on power side of coil and ensure constant voltage source If that fails then start going through each component and replacing it, starting with the cheapest first (condenser, points, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil...)

The disc wheel option involves more than just the wheel itself. Each wheel comes with a locking ring so, need to make sure those come with any wheels you find. You will also need to find the left and right front wheel hubs, left and right rear wheel hubs, 12 LH threaded lugnuts, 12 RH threaded lugnuts and the disk wheel tire carrier, which consists of a number of parts. The rear drums are usually riveted to the rear hubs but you can take apart the brake drum from a wood wheel and adapt it with a bit of work - getting it on center with the hub is very important. Depending what is on your car now, the tires may be different too (32"x4" on the disc wheels so a 24" dia rim). The rear axles, front spindles and front wheel bearings are common between wood and disc wheels so no issues there. Special Six and Big Six shared disc wheel part numbers. Best bet would be to find a car with disk wheels being salvaged or sold for cheap and steal all the parts from that. Not a simple job

Looks like they made a few tire changes after 1925. If you know your rim width, then I would pick a tire based on that. Maybe a 1926 Big Six owner will chime in to give their experience.

In the day, tires were measured with the OD (height) and the width. The rim size was calculated as: Tire OD - (2 x Width). So the 30x5 would have a 30" height, 5" tire width and a rim of: 30" minus (2 times 5") = 20". The 600/20 would be a 6" wide tire and 20" rim. These are all very nominal dimensions. Based on tire specifications from Coker and Universal Tire websites, I would estimate that the actual tread width on an original 30 x 5 (which aren't available) is about 4.00 - 4.25" and on a 600/20 is 4.25" - 4.75". So for authenticity, I think your choice of 600/20 blackwalls would be a good one. FYI - Blackwalls was my choice too. Scott

I believe the original tire size was 30"x5" for your car, although you may want to put on something a bit wider unless you are going for authenticity. As far a wide whitewalls vs blackwalls, that is a matter of preference. I think you are right that blackwalls were more correct for 1926 but it's up to you how you want your car to look. When I was deciding for new tires on my 1923 Light Six, I just did a little Photoshop work and it gave me the answer. Scott

I had a similar issue due to incorrect spring pressure on a new set of points I bought, although it would typically manifest at a higher rpm. The points were correct by the book but when I pulled them back out and compared the spring rate to the original point set, the replacement was much softer than the originals. I just cleaned up the original point contacts and solved the issue. Just something to look at. You could also post in the CLC Forum. Good luck. Scott

One suggestion to help diagnose issues. Install a vacuum gauge on the fill port plug and just let the car idle. You can watch the gauge for level of vacuum and how often it cycles. If vacuum is really low or it takes a really long time under vacuum to fill or it cycles too fast or it is completely inconsistent, then you know something is wrong and that information will at least help you think through the mechanics of what is going on and help you solve the issue.

Correct. Very different designs. Special and Big Six share the same design though.

Electric vibrator horns come in two types - the earlier "Klaxon" style in which an internal motor spins a small wavy plate that interfaces to a "finger" on a diaphragm. These are easy to take apart and rebuild. Then you have the style with an electromagnet that vibrates a diaphragm. Those are sometimes riveted together and may be harder to rebuild (never tried rebuilding one myself). You may want to specify type. Scott

Waldron’s made the exhaust (in stainless) for my 1923 Light Six and my 1939 LaSalle. Both were perfect fits. I had an original exhaust pipe and muffler from the Light Six that I was able to compare the new parts to and they were exactly the same. What’s wrong with going with Waldrons? Scott

The Gilmore Museum has rescheduled this to October 2-3, 2020. While it was nice they didn't cancel this altogether, August would have been a lot better plan vs October, especially due to the number of open cars that participate. I guess they had to work it into their schedule. https://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/event-detail/congress-of-motorcars-new-date/?glm_event_from=2020-10-02

I actually have two Book 3's - One covers 19-20 (First Printing) which is the one you see above. The other is the Second Printing like yours which covers 19-20-21-22. I alternate between the two, based on the year interested in, to avoid excess wear on these 100 year old books. Scott

I’ll save George wear and tear on his book as there are not a lot of Illustrated Parts Manuals out there to be had. Info spans a few pages.

If I was advertising a $90k USD car and wanted to attract "serious" buyers, I would take more than 3 pictures and would also have photos of the documentation verifying the claim of JFK ownership.

Kent is looking for a Remy 284A coil with the resistor unit. The one shown is very similar but not the correct one for his Light Six. Should look like this one pictured. Correct Studebaker part number is 43851. I surmised that he left the key on and, especially with no resistor, it overheated and melted the wax out of the coil.

Hi Linus, First of all, there are no dumb questions, just unasked ones so, ask away. The Special Six did not come with driveshaft disc couplings (those are Light Six parts), only the disc between the trans and engine, which aren't prone to fail except from extreme aging as they hardly flex. Marv Ribbich (mribbich@wi.rr.com on this forum or 1-262-292-2989) has those or you can just buy the material from Restoration Supply and make your own. If you have a driveshaft with flex joints, it would have to be a modification due to the overdrive unit. If so, Marv may be able to help out given some dimensions. There isn't much to the water pump - shaft, impeller, packing, packing nut, pump cover and gasket. Sometimes it just takes a new piece of packing but if the shaft is all scored up, you may need a new one made. A friend has a much older 1914 Studebaker and his impeller was trashed so he used one of the rubber ones out of an outboard motor and it works great - sometimes new solutions for old problems. This is the book you'll want but it's currently out of stock at Faxon - http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1918-1924-Studebaker-Big-Six-Special-6-Repair-Shop-Manual-Reprint-P9551.aspx There are a number of classifieds in the back of the Antique Studebaker Review, which you'll get with your membership to the Antique Studebaker Club. Scott

That video is a horrible thing to do to us while we are told to shelter at home! What a teaser.....I can't even come down to buy a ride currently. Well, I guess a virtual ride isn't so bad. At least it "got me out of the house" for 7 and half minutes. Thanks for sharing. That is a stunning car - looks great, sounds great, drives great.

Seems like these two groups could have benefited by a bus.

I got word that the Congress of Motorcars is cancelled for May 15-17. The organizers at the Gilmore Car Museum are working on a new scheduling of events for 2020 and will hopefully announce a new date for this event soon. There is a virtual car show this weekend though..... https://www.gilmorecarmuseum.org/event-detail/gilmore-car-museums-1st-virtual-car-show/?glm_event_from=2020-04-11

I measured up a known working Remy coil: A-D: 1.2 ohms D-E: 2.9 kilo ohms Resistor unit: 0.5 ohms That will give you a starting point. Below is from the Dykes Manual on testing the Remy unit

Re-posting in the live thread. For my brakes and clutches, I've used the Clutch Doctor 40167 Flink Ave, North Branch, MN 55056 (651) 674-4175 Super helpful, great work and prices are crazy reasonable. He may be able to help you out with lining material if you are set on doing the work yourself. I suggest giving him a call and checking on options. Scott

For my brakes and clutches, I've used the Clutch Doctor 40167 Flink Ave, North Branch, MN 55056 (651) 674-4175 Super helpful, great work and prices are crazy reasonable. He may be able to help you out with lining material if you are set on doing the work yourself. I suggest giving him a call and checking on options. Scott Oops I see a more active copy of this post - I'll repost there and we can let this one die.