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Allen, Might I suggest just starting a new post for your 1914 Mclaughlin rather than resurrecting someone else's 6 year old one. A big benefit is you get notified with replies rather than having to go check yourself. Scott

Universal will vulcanize different stems on to tubes. You can give them a call with your specific request. My disc wheels took the 90 degree bent nickel stems. https://www.universaltire.com/wheel-hardware.html?p=2

Champion 1-Com might be a good choice. You can find NOS ones on eBay occasionally. They came with both style wire clips. The early ones are take apart, the later ones are single piece. I use them in my ‘23 Studebaker https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Vintage-CHAMPION-1-COM-Spark-Plug-7-8-Thrd-IHC-Hit-Miss-Engine-Tractor/154145644005?hash=item23e3cbdde5:g:nRMAAOSwPD1fibjt Scott

I probably don’t need to mention this but just in case....By solvent, Phil is referring to mineral spirits or naptha. Don’t use something that may damage your wheel paint like lacquer thinner or enamel reducer. Scott

Adding to what Gary stated.....You do not find lock washers in the aviation industry. They use a lot of polymer-insert nuts (Nyloc), pal nuts (thin stamped nuts used as a “double nut”) and safety wire. In our old car hobby, and in keeping with original looks, I also use Loctite with a lock washer in areas of concern. Although not necessarily recommended for fasteners, I use Loctite Retaining Compound in some applications as it acts more like a Nyloc nut - lots of drag rather than just high breakaway torque.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned synthetics. Although I currently don't run a syntetic oil, I'm convinced they are a better lubricant based on the results of some friends that use it. I was considering switching my '39 LaSalle (V8 flathead "Cadillac" engine) over to a brand name full synthetic (maybe 5W-20) after I finish breaking in the engine. I have about 1200 miles on it using 10w30 VR1 so, maybe another 1000 miles. I run just a bit high on oil pressure too ~50 psi driving at 60 mph.

I used a Car Capsule in the past when I stored my car in my "farm" barn over the winter. Barn was built in the late 30's, concrete floor and originally used for hay and livestock so had a few roof leaks, big sliding doors with lots of gaps, plenty of ways for mice and critters to get in, etc. but was pretty good protection from the sun, wind, rain and snow. The capsule worked great to eliminate any rodent issues. I set mouse traps in the capsule and in the car, just in case, and never caught one. A trap set in the barn would catch something within an hour. It also kept the car dust free. Although the little fan keeps air circulating, it's not an environmentally controlled device so your car is subject to the changing outdoor temperatures. The one issue I didn't like, which typically happened towards the end of winter....super cold out, then the next day it warms up and gets a bit humid. Look inside the Car Capsule and the car is soaked in condensation (no different if it was just sitting outside of the capsule). As the car and all the metals reaches equilibrium to the outside temp, the condensation goes away and the fan keeps air circulating. I say this as the Car Capsule will not prevent this problem although the condensation may be a bit shorter lived in the capsule due to the moving air. I'm fortunate now to have an environmentally controlled pole barn (heat in winter, dehumidification in summer). Cars, machinery, tools all stay totally rust free due to controlling the humidity. Before heated outbuildings or garage, I used to use Boeshield T9 on my tools, drill press, lathe, etc. to keep them all rust free during the temperature swings and resulting condensation. I still use it on some of the parts of my cars for the same (sparkplugs, "oiled" bolts, etc.). It's really good stuff and leaves a dry waxy film rather than oily. I used spray foam insulation in the walls of my pole building which I believe is a great way of eliminating mice. I set three traps in there and re-peanut butter them every 6 months or so - have not caught a mouse in the 4 years since insulating. I catch plenty in my home's insulated attached garage and home's attic space.

My father-in-law has a 1955 F250 and is trying to locate the VIN. I believe there is supposed to be a tag on the inside of the glove compartment door. Are there any other locations? A picture showing that location would be best. Thanks for any help. Scott

Nice repair job!. And another fine example of Cause and Effect. If the car wanders a lot, it may just be a cracked exhaust manifold. 🤪 Scott

When I restored my 1923 Studebaker, I took a photo and used PowerPoint to add various pin stripes to the wheels and see how I liked it. Different colors and at different radii. In the end I opted for no stripes on that car. if you decide to stripe then you could get a pinstripe brush and do it yourself or find a good pinstriper and have them do it (usually not too expensive) or buy some pinstripe tape and use that. I had to repaint a wheel on my LaSalle and someone had previously used pinstripe tape on them so I bought some tape and striped the one wheel. I just measured from the edge where the stripe would be and made little “tick” marks about every inch as a guide. Pretty easy and it came out great. Scott

The ring gear is pressed on to the flywheel. I would suggest heating it to press it off/on. You can usually just press it on the other way and get some better teeth unless it is really bad. The service manual should cover this. is the starter not engaging? It would have to be unusable before I would want to risk accidentally breaking it. Scott

If you are looking for bumpers, Robert Kapteyn may still have these - in Illinois. I dropped them off at his place a few years ago. "rbk" on the forum - active in the Studebaker group. Scott

Interesting info. A little more history... http://chinacarhistory.com/2020/03/30/the-shanghai-horse-bazaar-and-motor-company-limited/

Hi Linus, I suggest you start posting in the Studebaker forum for your needs....there are parts out there. Also join the Antique Studebaker Club and put a wanted ad in the Antique Studebaker Review. You would be surprised how many older owners and collectors can't/don't particpate in the online forums but still respond to the hard print ads. Ask lots of questions. It's a fantastic looking car. Good luck. Scott

You could also put a request into the RE Olds Transportation Museum - In the Contact area....."Ask Ransom" https://www.reoldsmuseum.org/

Based on previous inquiries, I don't think the museum has much in the way of prints from the 1920s era. Guess you could ask though.

It only failed in some spots. The hottest area (closest to the output of all the cylinders) looks great. I think bad processing and they offered to redo it but I'm just going with highest gloss ceramic I can get. A number of flatty caddy folks tell me the porcelain just doesn't hold up, a few have good success. I've also read that new cast iron vs aged cast iron can make a big difference. Not sure David Buick (who made his money in plumbing and patented the porcelain over cast iron process for bathtubs) had thought that 45 years later, a car company would be using his process for exhaust manifolds.....

Excellent! Thanks all for your help. Scott

Yes, I could remove the line that goes from the intake manifold to the aux vacuum pump (part of fuel pump assembly) and use that. I was referring to an extra port that would make a simple attachment. Since I have to take off the exhaust manifold this winter and get it ceramic coated (correct porcelain coating from Independence Porcelain failed) I need to remove the intake also as I doubt I could reuse the shared gasket. That intake has a plug I’ll remove and create the spare port. Issue was you could feel a slight surging fore/aft during normal accelerations - like it was starving a bit for fuel but nothing you would be able to see/hear in a video, just a feel thing. I made two changes and the problem is solved. First, timing wasn’t as advanced as I thought so I bumped it up another 5 degrees to make about 10 BTDC at idle and I lifted the metering rods up about 1/64”. I’ll drive it for a couple hundred miles like that and see results. If I get time, I’ll go through the hassle of pulling vacuum wiper pipe off intake, check vacuum and really dial in idle jets to vacuum rather than rpm, but I plan to go to Gilmore Tour and Show this weekend. Thanks again for input. Scott

Looked at timing and it moves as expected with rpm. Without having a vacuum advance, it just follows rpm up the a maximum then holds there. Unfortunately, I don't have an available vacuum port at this time. I tested using starting fluid at idle and no rpm changes so probably not leaking. Idle mixtures screws are between 1.5 and 2 turns. I just set them based on rpm a while back. They probably don't come into play at moderate throttle position, which is where I have the issue. Thanks for the input thus far.

Originally it had a felt seal that was compressed axially by tightening up the bearing washer retainer which would force it out radially a bit and squeeze the shaft. Kept the dirt out but would weep a bit. Scott

Thanks for the comments. I got a bit more to the story. After returning from the European Theater as a B24 Navigator in 1945, Louis Bur (pictured) was sent stateside and started training in B29’s in Santa Anna California when the A-bombs were dropped on Japan and the war ended. He bought an old car in California and drove it back to Michigan. He was from the Flint area and so may have gravitated toward a GM car. I'm looking at that sharp hood line break, cowl lamp, visor, curvature of top rear... I know its hard without more of the car in the photo to find clues. In a period of generic styling....kind of like today. Taken from: https://medium.com/swlh/the-zombie-mobile-b03932ac971d

Reaserching for a friend. Photo of his father returning from European Theater as a B24 Navigator in 1945. Obviously an earlier car.

No vacuum advance on the 1939 cars. The mechanical advance is working and distributor support has new bushing and shaft. I'm running the lowest octane I can find which is 87 ((R+M)/2). I have it timed per the book plus a few degrees further advanced. I very much doubt a sticking valve (new rebuild) and I can easily make this go away by crowding the throttle a bit more and it goes away but comes back as I go moderate accel It never occurs at high throttle, cruise or idle. Other than feeling a small amount of surging during moderate acceleration it runs perfect. It feels worse when the engine is cold vs hot. It's not just the initial accel but during a steady throttle acceleration (as you are trying to get to speed). Update: I just pulled the plugs (after 1000 miles since rebuild). #1 and #8 looks like the rest - lighting bad on those. Maybe a bit too clean?

Need some advice. 1939 LaSalle with fresh engine rebuild. Generally runs great and quiet, can't hardly tell it's running at an idle. I also rebuilt the Carter WDO carb using the Carter step by step instructions along with the correct meter rod height gauges (thanks Jon for the correct tools). I have an issue.... During normal driving, the engine does not deliver smooth acceleration. There is a slight surging felt through the acceleration. If I accelerate fairly hard or go to wide open throttle the performance is fine. During cruise it's fine. It's just the light and moderate acceleration. Could this be an indication that it is running a bit too lean? I was thinking of lifting the metering rod height just a touch and see if it improves. Not sure what else it would be. Any thoughts? Thanks. Scott