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Stude Light

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Everything posted by Stude Light

  1. The most I can help with are the illustrations and part numbers from the Series 16-17-18 illustrated parts manual. The three column groupings got cut off a bit. They are Series 16, Series 17 and Series18. Hope it helps. Scott
  2. Tom, My illustrated parts manuals show: 105499 (hex red line around the cap) for the 1922 EK - described only 105979 (red "S" in black background) for the 1922, 1923, 1924 EK - described and illustrated 105980 (blue "S" in black background) for 1922, 1923, 1924 EL - described and illustrated 105500 (six black stripes in blue background) for 1922 EL - described and illustrated The 105979 and 105980 are identical except for the paint color. I have all three styles but only photographed what I thought you would be interested in (a single part with the six stripes, collection of "S" style with the best 4 on the left). Send me an e-mail if interested. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  3. I have a few of these - none are perfect. I'll try to take a couple of pictures in the next couple of days. Scott
  4. I used the photo sent to me by Packard32 "B" of his Big Six engine with the original paint to estimate the shade of gray. Scott
  5. Yes, parkerizing is also a phosphating process. I was thinking of the simple cold phosphating process (gray), but using the higher temperature processes can get you dark gray, gray-green and black. All these finishes require an oil to prevent rusting. If you use degreasers when washing down your car's engine, you end up removing the oils and have to do some recoating. The Boeshield product resists washing a little better than oils due to the waxes but I still like to re-coat to be on the safe side. I agree with Don - keeping non-painted parts out of the rain is the only way to keep them looking good. Scott
  6. TomB, I've used the Eastwood blackening solution also. Black oxide is nothing more than an oxidation process similar to gun bluing or just plain rusting. The hot oxidation processes provide a limited amount of rust protection, but the cold process (like the Eastwood) has no protective properties. Both the hot and cold processes rely on a protective coating and oil is typically used. The oxidizing changes the surface properties of the metal and allows for the oil to be trapped in the "pores". Eastwood used to offer an oil based product but now just offers a clearcoat paint for protection. The other process that works better is phosphating (metal conditioning) which leaves a light gray finish. This process leaves crystallized salts on the surface of the metal. It has slightly better corrosion resistance but, like the oxidizing processes, leaves a porous surfaces that requires a protective coating of paint or oil. What I have been using on my car is the Eastwood blackening process immediately followed by coating with Boeshield T-9. Boeshield is a great protective product that Boeing developed for use on their aircraft to protect hard to access parts. It is a mixture of oils and waxes that dries to a slight waxy finish. I use it for my tools and equipment in unheated garages/barns to prevent them from rusting. I have had excellent success using this process on my fasteners but it does require some periodic recoating depending on the environment. I like using it underhood, but wouldn't recommend it on an exposed surface. Paint is best for that. Scott
  7. I'm glad someone made reprints at one time - hopefully you can get yourself one. To remove the fan, just take out the two bolts holding the aluminum fan mount to the timing chain cover. The pulley and fan unthread from the shaft (one is left hand thread and one is right hand thread). Just unscrew it in the opposite direction it normally rotates. You can then pull the shaft out of the large bronze bushing that sits in the center of the aluminum mount and determine damage. I have a serviceable shaft and bushing if yours is too far gone. The fan shaft is supported in the bushing. That bushing can be rotated (off-center) in the aluminum housing to produce the proper tension on the belt. The larger bolt that holds the aluminum housing to the timing chain cover also clamps the bushing in the housing once the tension is adjusted. CAREFUL though! There is a washer located in the split portion of that aluminum mount. If it is missing you will break the aluminum when you tighten the bolt. Make sure you don't lose that washer and it is in place upon reassembly. The bushing holds a lot of grease so prepacking it is necessary before you reassemble, then you can use the grease cup to keep it lubed. Good luck. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  8. Faxon sells the Light Six Service Manual (1920-1924) and some early price list catalogs, but I haven't seen a parts manual reprint. I offered to have Faxon make reprints of my illustrated parts catalogs that cover all the models from 1913 - 1925 but have yet to receive a reply. I hate to have the originals destroyed but I know there are a lot of people out there that would enjoy having the info. Is there something specific you need looked up? I can do that. Scott
  9. These two caps are in pretty nice shape. $30 each plus shipping. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  10. I seem to recall that someone was looking for a visor but I can't recall who and for what model. I have two. The one pictured below is in really nice shape, with clear glass and is for a Light Six. The other has some rot (easily restorable), has deep tint glass and is for a Big Six (EK). Let me know of any interest. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  11. Looks like you want a p/n 106599. I have a few radiator shrouds but not this one. Good luck. Scott
  12. I suggest you just have one made, especially if you plan on keeping the car. Go to the end of this thread for a contact. http://forums.aaca.org/f126/looking-rear-wheel-puller-light-six-302907.html Scott
  13. TomB, Do any of these look correct? I can take measurements. All I have to compare them to is my Light Six tank. Most of the rust is just surface rust, the top is the important item as they were potmetal. I know that a couple of these tops are in nice shape. Another option is to buy a repro top Vintageand Classic Reproductions - Studebaker Parts Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  14. I suggest you just have one made, especially if you plan on keeping the car. Go to the end of this thread for a contact. http://forums.aaca.org/f126/looking-rear-wheel-puller-light-six-302907.html Scott
  15. You probably won't find any good pot metal end plate/brush holder assemblies for the Remy 917 series generators (Studebaker p/n 44360). I found a gentleman that had the end castings made and I had it machined to specs. I just don't have the time to make any more at this time, but I think that Jason at Advanced Electrical Rebuilders would be happy to help you out Advanced Electrical Rebuilders - Antique Auto - Marine - Agricultural - Industrial. Scott I believe this is the part you are looking for (3rd brush removed in this photo).
  16. When pulled straight, they measure 32-1/4" from center-to-center of the mounting holes. If you look closely at the photo you can see a slight color difference between the two rope (one is faded a bit from the other). $15 each. Send me an e-mail if interested. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  17. The Remy 284-S is Studebaker P/N 106837. It has the raised, side mount, high tension connector. As far as I can tell they were mounted on the generator with a bracket so, if this is the correct one for your car, I can help you out. Scott
  18. I am not sure of the application for this speedometer. It was installed in my Studebaker Light Six (dash was modified to accept it) but is not correct for that car. It works fine. Face is pristine, 0-75mph and measure 4" across. The trip odometer also works. The bezel that holds in the bevelled glass is two pieces soldered together. I do not know if that is original or not. The solder butt joints look straight so that amy be how it was made. The only issue I see is that one of the solder joints needs repaired. Price: $50 plus shipping. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  19. Tom, I have several Wagner coils that would be correct for a 1920-1925 cars. The 1927 Dictator engine was a modified version of the Light Six design but I think the coil moved from the top of the generator to a different location. My parts manuals only go to 1925 so I'm not sure if the coil design changed. If someone can confirm p/n I may have what you are looking for. Coil p/n's I have are Remy 30635, Remy 106837, Wagner 36779 and Wagner 106982. Scott
  20. I think that these are from a Studebaker, but I do not know which model. Can anyone help me out? They're for sale if interested. Sorry for the one blurry photo. Scott
  21. I found three starters. Two are Remy and one is a Wagner. Without taking them apart, I was able to manually rotate the two Remys and they both spun up when jumped to a battery. The Wagner is in nice shape but is stuck and I haven't attempted to free it up. I think you were looking for some bumpers too. I have a couple of sets for a Big Six. Send me an e-mail if you are interested. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  22. I have a few starters. Can you provide the tag number for the one you are looking for? Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  23. I have one Special Six Tail Lamp assembly. Gary, If you didn't find your door handles, I verified that do have several. Scott
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