in2antiques

Thanks for your reply. I’m very, very comfortable at 25 mph and very happy with my purchase. It actually drives at the same speed that I anticipated, having followed another AA many years ago. I was just curious if I should try to get another 5 mph out of it. The obvious answer is no. I’m also excited about future opportunities to join the 1 & 2 cylinder tours. Thanks, Dave

I had a discussion with the previous owner, who reminded me that my car doesn’t have the original carburetor, and that might make a difference. I never expected to drive more than 25mph in this vehicle, but was curious when told of the other going a bit faster. I'm now curious what type carburetor is original to the AA model?

I recently purchased a 1910 Maxwell Model AA. It underwent a beautiful restoration roughly 50 years ago but looks a fresh as it was done in recent years. The previous owner also rebuilt the engine, with new cylinders made. The car drives very nicely and I enjoy having it on the road but question the top speed and if any adjustments might need done. Top speed is 25 mph. I followed a similar Maxwell on a tour many years ago and the unrestored vehicle was running about 22 mph. I don't know if that one was just old and tired or if it was typical? I talked with another Maxwell AA owner who said his will cruise at 32 mph, but also said he has oversized pistons. I'm uncertain of my piston size with this engine rebuild. I'm happy traveling at 25 but wonder if additional tuning or adjustments might be done to bring it up a bit? Thanks in advance, Dave PS: the attached picture was taken prior to the thorough waxing and brass polishing I've done. :-)

Thanks Roger, I appreciate your fast reply. I’d never looked at this area before having this problem, so didn’t have anything for comparison. I believed the pin must stick through both sides of the crank to engage with the engine. However, if I peen over the small end, only one side would engage, correct? Thanks again, Dave

Hi, I'm looking for help - I drove my Liberty Brush for a Thanksgiving tour but discovered I couldn't crank her over when it was time to come home, as the "pin" in the hand crank had fallen out somewhere along the drive. This is a tapered pin, apparently press fit. I found a mechanic who can reproduce and install it for me but would like a picture or dimensions of a good one if available. Is it simply tapered, or is it flat on the ends to engage the engine? If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. Please see the attached pictures. Thanks in advance, Dave

Hi Mark, thank you for your reply. I’m learning quite a bit about this carburetor on my vehicle. I’d not driven my Brush in 8 years, and had forgotten that applying the brake pedal also engaged the clutch and applied the brake. As it turns out, my brake pedal was slightly depressed, significantly limiting my speed. That’s been corrected, and I made some minor adjustments to the carburetor and it seems to be running fine now. i’m always thankful for this forum though, as it’s a fantastic source for expert information. Again, thanks! Dave

Hi Jon, Thank you! I really appreciate your very fast reply to this post. It’s hard to find information at times and it’s great to have some experts like you to provide assistance. The brush is supposed to have a five ball carburetor, but I know this particular one has been on the car since at least 1959. Again, thank you, Dave

Hi, I have a Wheeler-Schebler Model FA carburetor on my 1912 Brush. Although it’s not original to the car I know they usedvthem on model T Ford’s (which I also have) so I’m looking for help in this forum. The car doesn’t run well past an idle. I saw there are two adjustments on the top of the carb and believe one is adjusted for high speed or fast idle. I could play with the adjustments but was hoping somebody could tell me which adjustment of the two adjustments is which. Below is a picture I found online of one identical to the one on my car. I also found a little information on the following site: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/74692.html?1228737946 Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave

First time out of the garage in seven years! I’ll start her next week.

Hi, i’ve been collecting Brush advertisements for a number of years. I sent over 70 ads I’ve collected from turn of the century newspapers and other sources to your email address. Many are undoubtedly duplicates of those you might have, but I hope you can use some. Dave

Hi Skip, thank you! I’ve decided to use a small 12v AGM battery, which I understand, won’t leak. I like the idea of a wooden box and think this sounds like the best solution. The box can then be secured to the floor with ease. Of course, there’s little chance of tipping anyway, with such a small area under the seat, and running at “Brush” speeds, but will move forward with this plan. Again, thanks! Dave

Hi Simon, thanks. I wasn't sure if I should secure it with a standard battery hold down such as this, or perhaps something that looks a bit more vintage. It is, after all, hidden. Someone suggested I use a strip of wood that closely matches the finish on the car, and use run it across the battery and use hold down (rods) similar to those in the picture you shared. I wasn't sure if there was a standard way of doing this? I wonder what they did from the factory? Anyway, thanks! Dave

I'm getting close to having my Liberty on the road. I have a question about securing the battery under the seat. The prior owner had used a bungie cord to strap it in place. I'm looking for better ideas. Can someone please provide a picture showing how to properly secure it? Many thanks in advance, Dave

Hi, you might try Nostalgic Reflections for a script. I sent them pictures of a "Liberty" script and they manufacture one for me. I was fortunate to have seen an original script and had exact measurements, which was helpful. Not cheap, but can't wait to finish my (cosmetic) restoration and put on the radiator.

Regarding the wheels, I’m uncertain of current costs, but had new wheels made by Stutzman’s Wheel Shop in Baltic Ohio a few years back. Noah Stutzman does excellent work and as I recall, fairly reasonable. You can Google his phone number.