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in2antiques

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About in2antiques

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  1. Hi Skip, forgive my very delayed response. Thank you. I've had several folks tell me "not Brush" on the lights, but they look nice and I honestly wouldn't have known the difference. I wasn't able to find any identification on them so no idea what they were from. I'll post pictures down the road when the car's back on the road. Hopefully, not too far down the road! All the best, Dave
  2. Hi Skip, thanks for the additional information. I'll have a look over the weekend and let you know about the lights. I've had several folks tell me the lights are not correct, the seat is not correct, the wheels are not correct. Etc. etc. Others have told me that Brush was grabbing parts from anywhere they could to complete their last year production, and the 1912 liberty models had parts from Ford, Maxwell, and other manufacturers to complete the build. Mine has one of the last known serial numbers (engine SN), so anything's possible. At this point, it doesn't matter. I just want a nice
  3. Hi Skip, Thank you so much for your reply. This is the only car I have with this type of set up for lubrication. It didn't appear that the dash has been altered, but I wasn't certain. What you said makes sense. If I have any problems hooking it up I may reply again, it'll probably be sometime after the holidays. Again, this car's been on blocks for about six years and I'm anxious to have it back drivable. Thanks, Dave
  4. Hi Fellow Brush Owners, I purchased my 1912 Liberty-Brush in 2013 and drove it only a few times before the wheels came apart on me. I've since had new wheels made and purchased new tires, but she's been sitting for 6 years and I'm finally putting her back on the road. I have a few questions and will be posting questions as I go. When I purchased the car, the oil tank was mounted on the dash but the oiler was not. The previous owner said it leaked badly so he put the pictured Lunkenheimer Sentinel on instead. It's not correct for the car but fortunately, I have the o
  5. I appreciate everyone's advice. I had several problems with the car. The ignition/light switch was draining the battery. Turning the lights on at any time would kill the ignition. I bypassed both of those with toggle switches and it now holds a charge and starts easily even with the lights on. I also purchased a condenser from Myers Dodge, and my restarting problems disappeared. We drove the car 50 miles on Saturday with no problems. At the end of our drive it stalled at an intersection. I couldn't believe when I wouldn't restart, but then found a broken wire under the dash (fro
  6. Thank you! I don't see an easy way of removing it, but perhaps it'll be evident when I see the new one.
  7. It appears my electrical problems may be resolved regarding the battery drainage. Toggle switches seemed to have worked. However, I'm left with the problem of a car not running. I suspected when it gets warm the condenser may be failing. Typically, after running it for 10 minutes or so and shutting it off, I can't start it for hours afterwards. I tried again this morning. It started with ease snd I let run 15 minutes, shut it off, waited five minutes, and haven't been on able to start it since. It'll fire but then immediately die. Remove the distributor cap, manually operated the point
  8. Ok, so I've bypassed the ignition and light switches, and everything's now on toggle switches. Starts fine, lights work, but after running for about 10 minutes I turned it off, and unable to start again. It's got to be the carburetor or the coil. I've ordered new spark plug wires and a distributor cap nonetheless. Can't hurt. It's getting to be nice touring weather in Arizona, so am anxious to try look at new thing to figure it out. Will give it a go in another few days. Dave
  9. Thanks again for the replies. The car is negative ground, with the horn on the door. I've not had the opportunity to check the rest of the suggestions and it may be the weekend again before I have the opportunity. Again, thanks.
  10. Thanks for the addition replies. I'll keep working this, but am guessing I'll end up with toggle switches, as noted. Again, thanks for the advice.
  11. Thanks. What impact would not having that grounded have on the charging system? The ammeter shows it was charging. I'm trying to figure an electrical issue. I had an older battery that wouldn't hold a charge. I replaced with a brand new one, and just to be sure, fully charged it two days ago. Took the car for a drive today and after only 4 miles, shut it off, and fortunately in front of my house. I was able to put a charger on it, and showed it was nearly dead. Wish I'd have checked the charge prior to my drive. I previously posted on this forum about a starting
  12. I've got a question about the installation of the starter generator on my 1921 Dodge Brothers. The heavy cable is hooked to the starter switch, but does the other contact need to be grounded? Thanks, Dave
  13. Thanks for the suggestions. I left a message for the folks at Myers Dodge, and then spoke with the gentleman at ROMAR. Apparently this is an ongoing problem with these old switches, and they're hard to come by. I'll try to fix the switch, but may end up using toggle switches under the dash for my lights and/or ignition. Would be an easy solution if I can't fix or get parts. Again, thanks.
  14. All, so I've finally had a chance to play with my '21 Roadster. I've not been able to fully verify why my car wouldn't start after running a short while, but have some ideas and findings. Based on the suggestion that fuel pressure to the carburetor is only gravity fed, I reduced the pressure from the fuel regulator from 2.5 to 1 psi and it's been running fine. The other suggestion was that most ignition problems are electrical and nature, so I replaced a very old and used battery with a new one. I found however that if my ignition key is not perfectly aligned in
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