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Stude Light

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  1. I am wondering if there is any interest in generators for the Light Six, Standard Six and probably the 6 cyl Dictators. This would be for the original Remy 917-A which has a Studebaker p/n 43684. I have a few units that I was considering to refurbish – all of which have pot metal end castings that are crumbling. Generator would be fitted with a new aluminum end casting that is machined to closely match to the original pot metal part. It would be modified to a 2-brush design with an internal electronic regulator that is attached internally to a new band. It would have the original Remy tag (in whatever shape it is in), be fitted with new rear sealed bearing, good brushes, tested and painted with a high quality black automotive enamel. Probably would run between $600-800. Seems kind of expensive, but there is a lot of work and cost in recasting, machining, cleaning, painting and electronics. If there is enough interest I would be willing to put in the time and effort. Send me an email if you have any interest. smrdeza@power-net.net Thanks. Scott
  2. Robert, That's a good point. I was thinking that there was a pump change when Studebaker went to a full pressure lubrication on the later versions of the basic Light Six engine design, but that occurred in 1925 with the Standard Six. My illustrated parts manual collection only covers 1915 - 1925 so I don't have the actual p/n used on the Dictators, but reasoning this out....in 1925 the Standard Six used a p/n 43615 pump carried over from the Light Six and there were no significant engine changes through 1927 when the Dictators picked up this engine so it should be the same iron/steel pump design. Picture of Dictator engine looks like the same pump. Of course someone may have better information to prove me wrong. Scott
  3. Steve, Yes, that is the coil I have. Are you sure the coil is burned out? Make sure you check the little round resistor unit that sits on to of one of the coil terminals. You can just by pass that unit and connect the wire going to it directly to the coil and see how that works. In the meantime, I'll clean up the unit I have and make sure it works. And let me know if you will be needing a replacement resistor unit - not sure if I have one that works. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  4. Steve, I was looking through my coils earlier this evening for a p/n 30635 (Light Six coil which also fits a '25 Stutz) and I found several. But I'm sure I saw one of the high tension side mounts that you are looking for. I'll check it over and see if it is any good. If you are still interested let me know. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  5. No such part listed in the 1925 Illustrated Parts Manual. All it shows is the drive gear and retainer housing. I think I have those parts and probably a cable housing but no 90 deg drive gearbox. Scott
  6. Earlier in this post, the oil pump p/n mentioned was 43615. I have several of these, which are cast iron/steel pumps used in the Light Six/Standard Six. I doubt I have a Dictator pump but I'll look around. Scott
  7. I have a few 626A's in various states. Most of them suffer from the pot metal deterioration of the top plate - replacement aluminum top plates are for sale on eBay ($383.00). I think I have one that still has a good top plate. How much of the distributor are you looking for? Just the base with the centrifugal weights? Whole assembly less points, cond, rotor and cap? Or the entire assembly. Not sure what all I can piece together but can probably get everything less points. Let me know. Scott smrdeza@power-net.net
  8. Tom, To give the original "bare" cast iron look without it getting rusty the first humid day, I used a gray cast iron exhaust paint from Eastwood. Came out really nice and looks like bare cast iron. Factory Gray High Temp Coating Kit Scott
  9. Agree with Terry's color recommendations. Restoring my 1923 Light Six and opted to black oxide all my fasteners. Trying to get rusty fasteners back to their "natural state" isn't very easy. After sand blasting they take on an unnatural look. You could clearcoat afterwards but they just don't look the same. I used the black oxide kit that Eastwood sells. They really come out nice and it provides a decent corrosion protection. Also gives a look of natural heat treated fasteners. Scott
  10. Dave, The Light Six has angled valves so today's overhead valve spring compressor works fine. The one I used had a deep enough throat to clear the manifold. You might want to stick with Terry's recommendation on torque. If you do get any leakage, just increase the torque level. Scott
  11. Dave, After you remove the head from your engine, I would remove each valve/spring/retainer assembly and keep them in order. I took a piece of wood, drilled holes in it and marked it with the cylinder number and either In (intake) or Ex (exhaust). I placed each valve (with spring & retainer) in the holes to keep them in order. Besides replacing your roller, you'll want to scrape any carbon off the pistons, valves and combustion chamber. I placed my Shop Vac pickup right in the cylinder to suck up all particles to avoid getting the stuff between the piston and cylinder walls. Inspect your valves and seats to look for any excessive wear or burning or leakage. They should look fairly uniform all the way around. If you find a problem you may want to get them lightly ground (valves and seats). To ensure a leak free seal on your cylinder head, you will want to clean the surfaces of the block and head - scrape, brush, solvent....get it really clean. Hopefully you’ll get a new gasket which will be copper-asbestos-copper. Make sure you get the right gasket, as there are a few different versions for the Studebaker sixes – compare it to the old one. I would install the gasket dry (no sealants). The copper will form into the irregularities on the castings and the asbestos will compress. Unfortunately, there are no published torque specs for the early vintage cars. That said, I would use no more than 70 ft lbs, which is the low end of the spec for a grade 5 bolt. If you have some studs that look a bit rotted, you may want to go a bit less on those. You will want to use a drop or two of oil on each thread and torque in a sequence starting in the center of the head, working your way to the ends, back and forth from the center. Gradually ramp up the torque following this sequence. This means you will torque each nut down at least 5 times starting with a light snug, then 15 ft lbs. After each nut is at 15ft lbs, move to 30ft lbs and follow your sequence, then 45ft lbs and so on. After you run the engine and warm it up, you will want to re-torque it one more time. Good luck, Scott
  12. Dave, My 1923 Light Six has bolts instead of studs. Apparently they were changed over at some point as all the fasteners on the car have bolts machined on a lathe with no markings on the heads except for my rocker arm bolts which indicated a grade 8 (6 star marking). I must say that the bolts are an extremely tight fit in the rocker arm supports and have to be unscrewed or tapped out with a hammer. You may be experiencing the same issue on your studs. You may have to remove the valves to get at them to pry out. My engine has the aluminum head which is a lot harder to get off vs your cast iron head. It really isn't terribly difficult to get the head off and it will give you the opportunity to clean up any carbon, check the overall condition of your cylinders and you could clean up your valves or even do a valve job. This may be more than you originally bargained for but again it really isn't that difficult. To pull the head you'll have to drain the coolant, removed the upper radiator hose, remove all the head bolts and pry the head up with a few screwdrivers. New head gaskets are available on eBay or from Olsons's Gaskets (http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/). If you do go this route, I found that tapping each spring retainer with a hammer a couple of times, before removing the springs, breaks them loose from the keepers. The next step would be to get a valve spring compressor. After compressing each valve spring the parts will be easily removed. Just make sure you label everything so it goes back in the same location from which it came. FYI - pulling the oil pan would give you the opportunity to clean any crud out of it - mine had a lot. Olson's has new pan gaskets too (it takes 4). Scott
  13. You mentioned that you found the roller, but not the roller pin. I suggest you take a small magnetic retrieval tool and fish around the oil pan for it. If it found its way to the bottom of the oil pan, it'll probably stay there and cause no problems, but if it ended up in the connecting rod oil drip tray, it may be caught by a connecting rod dipping finger and do some damage. I bought a small telecoping magnet tool at the auto parts store and was able to work through the valve side cover to drag it through the oil retaining slots in the tray to retreive a valve keeper I dropped. (FYI - the oil tray I mentioned is situated in the oil pan about 3 inches above the bottom and is retained by four nuts to the oil pan itself.) Good Luck, Scott
  14. Not buying or selling here, but personally, I would get rid of the asbestos. If you decide to risk doing this yourself, you must saturate the carpet with water. This will keep fibers from floating around. Gently remove the carpet and put it in a heavy mil trash bag (6mil plus). Multiple bags would be best. Keeping it wet is the key. You could call around and see about best way to dispose of it. It usually goes to a regular landfill (not a hazardous landfill) but is handled differently to keep from tearing the bag. Wet asbestos is very inert. You will also need to clean up any of the residue left in the car (while it is still wet). Do your best and keep everything wet while working with it. You don't want to breathe of ingest the fibers or allow anyone else to. That said, the stuff is really everywhere in small quantities - vermiculite insulation, farm fields, floating around in the air, etc. Repeated exposure to higher quantities is what causes health hazards. Minimize that and you minimize your risk.
  15. Thanks B. Looks like I'll go with the gray on the block and gloss black for all the accessories and leave the brass and aluminum as is (with maybe a satin clearcoat). Scott
  16. This is my unrestored gauge - removed from housing. The gauge face was originally a satin sheen black with white lettering, similar to the gauges on the dash.
  17. BJ A friend in Ohio had molds made from the potmetal end casting on a Remy generator (same one is used on his '25 Stutz). He had a few aluminum parts cast and sold me one of his spares. He still has the molds. You can try to contact him and see what it would take to get some additional parts made. See this post: http://forums.aaca.org/f125/1925-stutz-remy-generator-problem-238900.html Scott
  18. Ozzie, Let me know if Mike wasn't able to help you out or if you need any other info off a Light Six (mine is in the middle of a full restoration). My 1923 gauge is a bit rough but has enough detail to get what you are looking for. I can send a photo if needed. smrdeza@power-net.net Scott
  19. I am getting ready to start painting the engine and accessories on my 1923 Light Six (aluminum head). I am trying to restore this to original condition and would like to use something close to original colors and sheen. I am told that the engine was painted a medium “machinery” gray and most of the accessories were a gloss black (using some of the old brochures and manuals it is easy to see what is black). Questions: Does anyone have a Dupont number or other color match for the gray and what sheen was used? What was the sheen used on the radiator (especially interested on the exposed fins)? Was any of the aluminum painted (head, timing chain cover, accessory mount)? What about the brass carb and brass thermostat housing? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Scott
  20. Dan, The end casting looks just like the one on my 1923 Studebaker Light Six which has a Remy 917-A generator. I have the same disintegration issue. I know that the machining will take a bit of work. Please let me know if you would be willing to part with your spare casting and what you would be wanting for it. You can reply to smrdeza@power-net.net Thanks for the consideration, Scott
  21. Dan, Any chance you had extra Remy end supports made? If so, would you be willing to sell one? Thanks for a reply. Scott
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