(S)

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  1. Studebaker used notoriously soft screws for those. I usually grind the head flat, center punch it and step drill them. The screw and the part is countersunk so you will see the screw head want to break from the shank right before you come close to drilling the part. Check your books - I think by '34 they had a floating nut plate inside the pillar? Just slide it out to repair the plate. , heat and vise grips should take the screw remnants right out of the plate on the bench rather than beating it on the car..
  2. I'm in Washington State, Have not been back to look at condition on the old one. The 41 is a keeper.
  3. I do not have a parts book. Maybe someone knows if it is the same?
  4. Not sure without taking it apart some more. It was clean and fresh, but looks like a pinch bolt was wrong and scored a cylinder wall then it sat. I have seen this on many late Studebaker engines, but not sure if these share that design. I assume they do. I am trying to get it apart without forcing it. It 's head may be good, may have a crank and a few internals . Not sure if it will come apart before Winter. I may have found another one left over from a hot rod project but have no data on it yet. . If you are looking PM me.
  5. I'll get the number when I go back. Thanks for that location picture. I scraped and struggled looking all around the top edge of the block looking and looking.......... I'd make an offer if someone actually needs it. I'm too full until I unload a 53K and a 63GT I got with 6 Hawks and loads of Studebaker parts this Fall.
  6. Thanks. I could not remember the 6 or Standard 6 name. It looks similar. The 41 was short some major parts - now maybe it can continue again.
  7. I went to look at helping out on some parts for a newer Studebaker and found a 1924 -26? Chassis and fenders. The only clues I saw were solid steel disc type wheels, the weird looking head on the engine, (Aluminum ) a Wagner starter and the dash had just one round part with a key switch and 2 levers, I'm thinking it is a 24 Dictator... Or it was 90 years ago I looked all around the engine block for an ID number and saw nothing. My book only goes back to 1929 anyway ANy info would be helpful- it is for sale but not much left. The '41 was not expected so guess who had a great Studebaker day?
  8. I'd love to 'lighten ' the load. Most of these are right in the 1948- 1960 era. All are from Studebaker cars, with the odd brand x here and there. Two of those wire baskets weight about as much as an engine! The parts books show some, but then they 'repeat' a shape of the hole and it throws me off. Trying to ID jack bases is difficult but these above pics probably ID'd 2 of them! Thank you.
  9. Good info and good advice about not using OE car jacks. From the pics I found out I have a few to get rid of.
  10. I'll keep an eye out. I'm sure you know the usual places to look . If you don't find one, I have a nice grille and all of the 'Transtar' mouldings and such to transfer over to the right truck....
  11. I'm in WA State. We are slowly taking the car apart- so perfect timing. Shipping is no problem, I ship regularly dealing only in Stude parts...
  12. I have the front drums off, they Mic at 12 1/32nd and are smooth and usable as is for probably quite a few more miles. The brake hardware and shoes are also nice, the shoes need re-lining. I have 1 wheel with dented hub cap Yard art The headlight bar is good with hardware. The wheel bearings, races and (Rim ) wheel locks also look good. It has a decent looking cylinder head, Accessory drive 'housing' oil pump, And a bunch of other good stuff. Working on the crankshaft, oil pan , engine side covers gas tank and then final disposal pretty soon ( Scrap )
  13. Unhook the cable connections, clean and re install. Check the actual cables (unless you know the age /condition )because they can corrode on the insides but look fine. Resistance is the enemy and you can check it with Ohms and or a volt meter/ test light in the cranking mode or at the cable ends.
  14. Making more space and I have a 1928 Serial # 1427942 frame, chassis, engine , and parts from it to get rid of. The engine is GE 18967 a large looking 6 cylinder. I'll be parting it out since the thing did not sell 'whole' It has most of a crusty engine, bad manifold, no carb. It has some good engine side covers, maybe even the crank. it has a head, GEN, STarter, Oil pump, and misc parts. it has a bell housing, no flywheel or clutch. The frame is good- , chassis, brakes, are mostly there. it has good looking front drums and all of the brake bits look fine, - I need a spec. so I can Mic the drums for you. They are smooth and nice- but how nice? Right fender, fender brace/ headlight bar, engine side metal, right running board brackets, right side metal, gas tank are also 'present' but rough. The differential is all there, and may not turn, but I hope the axles come out and are good -- the Fender, side panels, crank, axles and some of these parts still need removal and need inspection before selling. Also have other parts. Will trade for 1932 Commander Model 71 parts. Looking for tail light, bracket, left rear 1/4 glass interior window moulding, fender lights, front bumper, hood center hinge 'strip' / molding, front end cap for it.
  15. Probably replacements. The older parts book is no help without a part number. They show sketches but nothing that nails it.