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Yes, that right, I had my Knuckles bloody, and that was just getting the tools out of the box this four day weekend.

Who among you, can actually post work related stories, not your politcal soap box?

Returning to base course......

just spend two days installing my 1950 exhaust system... fits perfect...

The old system was a oval job, and was welded onto the orginal head pipe at the engine. To get it out from the holes in the x-frame, required some hack sawing, and chat-chatting between cuts to rest the arms.

The new system on this year is a 8" tube muffler that is almost 4 feet long. It fit from below the driver to the back seat.

Snaking the pipes were a bit tricky because the car was only 24" off the ground instead of 6 feet on a lift, were you can lift the tail pipe section over the axel...

Sounds better also.

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I smashed a finger nail with a Model T Ford axle housing yesterday, does that count? I had both halves of the rear axle baked and shot blasted at the local parts house mechine shop. Good deal for $42.00, I dropped of two dirty rust pitted housings and picked up two like new pieces. This is how engine blocks are cleaned here since hot tanking has been baned.

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Randall,

The Exhaust system from John Kepich is bent to the spec's of the original, to the point that the head pipe was identical to the old one.

The ends of the pipes are flair, so slip right in to the a jointing pipe or muffler. I had to grease the pipe end so it would slide easier. Then I installed a clamp at each joint. There are only two at each side of the muffler.

The hard part was rebuilding the "bridge" hanger, which on the Buick, spans thru two webs of the frame, with rubber ends. The orignal rubber was rivied in, so I drilled them out, and got new rubber straps from the auto-zone, and rehung that bridge, and then put the u-clamp from the brige to the muffler.

I figured, that if I took the pipes to muffler shop, they would just tack weld the clamps to the frame the easy way for them.

Those pipes run thru the frame so many times, that if you don't do it right, the muffler rings like a bell at every bump.

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Great job! Thank you for the response. The exhaust system on my '47 was put in strangely so on every bump, the pipe bounces on the frame making it sound as though the floor were falling out. I thought I had a real problem until I climbed under and realised what it was.

Does Kepich have a website? I might do as you have done and rebuild my own.

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I am doing the final assembly of the last Amphicar built (as far as we know anyway). It has quite a few unique features not found on many other cars. It is a beautiful red color and named "Weird Harold" (appropriatly enough). Some of that red is blood of course! The rules say that you have to donate blood and have extra parts for any project to be a success!

LAst night I slipped and my hand landed on the edge of the radiant heater. So now I have a nice dead straight slice across my palm about 1/16" deep x 2". No blood as the heater was on and it cauterized (sp?) the wound. Yes it hurt! shocked.gif(still)

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OUCH! That hurts just reading about it!

I was tuning the old flathead v-8 last month in preparation for the winter, and just forgot that it was idling. It is really quiet. I leaned into the compartment to see the timing mark and rested my hand on the cast iron head. YYYYYYUUUUUMMMM! Its not bacon...its Sizzlean!

That was an owy I won't soon repeat. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />

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Dear Tommy1927,Just got our 39 Lincoln Zephyr coupe painted this Saturday.Now the FUN starts,Blocking the paint 1200,1500,2000 then the rubbing starts.Gotta get it done tonite before the single stage urethane gets too hard.Back on the SOAPBOX it's the only way i can reach the middle of the roof.diz laugh.gif

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ill keep it short but keep in mind the hospital bill was not. my 70 dodge 3/4 crewcab had split rims on it, and i tried to take the rim apart so i could get the old bias ply tires off. the rim came apart a heck of a lot faster than i thought it would. 4 broken fingers, 2 cracked teeth, and a busted drivers side mirror later and my truck no longer has split rims.

nuf said

tom

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I am currently mending a nice cut with iodine and peroxide. Removed and dismantled all 4 brakes, hubs, wheel bearings, lines, etc on the Amphicar this past weekend. The fun part was getting the gooey watery grease out of everthing as these axles run under the water line. Not a good project with a cut on your finger that I think may have come from carving the turkey. Pretty bad when you don't even know when you cut yourself.

52deluxe you are lucky you didn't get killed. I have always heard that split rims were very dangerous and most use a cage when messing with them.

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Guest imported_GeorgeCagle

I am thankful that I am finally getting to work on my car (1937 Dictator 4-door). I have owned it for about 4 years, but a trip to Bosnia in 2000, and another to Afghanistan in 2002 with the Army Reserve made it hard to get much done. In August I decided it was time to do something about the low compression so I pulled the motor and transmission, cleaned and painted the front frame, and got the firewall ready for paint. The engine has been in the machine shop waiting for them to get time to check it out. I was hoping to get by with a valve job. They called me a couple of weeks ago and told me that I needed to get oversize pistons, turn the crank, and by the way - there is a crack in the block in the water jacket between the pushrods and cylinders. It is about 14 inches long and only showed up after hot tanking the block. The machine shop said that this block is repairable, but recommended getting a better block.

Last weekend I located a guy from the Studebaker Club who had a spare big 6 engine from a 1957 Stude truck. He delivered it to me Wednesday night before Thanksgiving. After Thanksgiving I started pulling it apart, and so far it looks to be in great shape. From the outside this block is identical to the '37, but is a 245ci instead of a 218ci, so I will have more power but look stock. I hope to get it to the machine shop later this week.

I haven't busted any knuckles yet, I guess that will happen when I put the motor back in. crazy.gif

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George, welcome back its glad to see you made it back in one piece. Its a shame we are so focused on Iraq that we tend to forget about Afghanistan and its former leader who killed 3,000 plus people on 9/11. I see you have a 1955 Turner listed on your sign off. What exactly is a Turner?

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I got absolutely zero done over Thanksgiving on the antique cars. Thursday spent the day with Family. Friday the Suburban chewed up its serpentine belt pieces of which while still attached wrapped themselves around the AC clutch wiring and sheared the connector right off the coil, at the same time it ripped the wiring right out of the Alternator. Alternator is fixed, new belt is installed... compressor will wait... that clutch costs $100! Saturday we got up to go to the Turkey Run in Daytona, and the "Charge" light was on the Olds, so we piled in to the trusty ole Volvo and headed up with Grandson (age 6) in tow. Sunday I put a new alternator in the Oldsmobile, and went and sorta kinda bought another project... picked up two fiat Spyder's, old enough to be shown at the AACA meets, which is scary because I wanted one when it was new, and I was driving (and had been awhile) at the time. In any event, now we have more projects I won't have time or money for... wink.gif

Rich

PS: Maybe I'll get to work on an antique car this week... maybe... then again the Suburban is 15 years old and the Olds is 13 years old... and they are my "New" vehicles.

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Guest imported_GeorgeCagle

Ron, a Turner is one of those strange little British cars made in the '50s that were delivered with "some assembly required". Turner made about 600 cars, of which over 200 survive. Mine is number 13. I picked it up in 1978 and still haven't gotten around to restoring it. It has an MGA engine and is right hand drive. Most of them were built to race, and you can still see one occasionally at Road Atlanta. The Turner Registry has a web site with lots of pictures and history of the company: http://www.turnersportscars.com/

If I ever get all my other projects finished I will restore this one. grin.gif

George

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In the last month, I have replaced the engine in my 72 GS, and put a new rack and pinion steering mechanism in my 37 Buick street rod. The only project I have left for the winter is to upgrade the brakes on my 40 Buick Super to the Roadmaster units. They are 2 1/4 wide versus 1 3/4 and should help stop the thing a little better. I did not lose a lot of blood, but I did get a bunch of abrasions trying to get the exhaust headers hooked back up to the GS

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Guest Skyking

Last Saturday I hooked up the exhaust on the Met before starting it up for the first time.......Guess what, the dreaded exhaust leak. Now if you don't know anything about Metropolitans, let me tell you they have the worst designed manifold to exhaust hook-up possible. Two flanges without a doughnut. Metal to metal with a 2 piece clamp. With everything I've done on this car so far, this is taking me the longest to get right. Working on exhaust systems isn't my cup of tea. So I know all about the bruised knuckles, and the twisted back. I will win this fight! BTW, the car runs super.......

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I haven't done a dang thing to my cars since the 100th Buick anniversary show this past summer, except hide the kids Christmas presents inside the Buick.

However, this week I took delivery of an NOS in-the-box low-tone horn for my TR6. In 15 years of buying Triumph parts it is the first <span style="font-style: italic">Clear Hooters</span> (long extinct British component supplier/Lucas competator) box part for my car I've ever come accross. I have a couple of their switches (that're original to my car) that are still in their factory cellophane bags, but this is the only box. Until now I didn't even know what their trademark colors were!

==========================================================

George,

Turners are very popular in the VSCCA racing circut. I believe only SVRA sanctioned races are run a Road Atlanta. The VSCCA sanctioned race in Pittsburgh (Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix) has at least 2 or 3 Turners every year, sometimes as many as 5. If you get a chance to come by in July you should check it out, <span style="font-style: italic">and it's free!</span> cool.gif

2_160.jpg

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Tom, I remember when I worked at a filling station (back when you filled car, checked oil & washed winshield) while in high school doing tune ups, brake jobs and tire changes the owner said don't EVER touch a split rim, which suited me just fine.

Got my engine/trans back in my 40 Packard over the holiday. Skipped diner on saturday night because I was sooo close to firing engine up for first time in a year. Ended up staying out in the garage until after midnight listening and checking engine. I was thankful it was the easiest first time start up I have ever had. The bad news is the nos throwout bearing I used has a problem that's going to make me have to pull trans/od unit back out to replace. frown.gif

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Had an antifreeze leak back passenger side. I thought it was the freeze plug under the exhaust manifold but when I pull manifold off I found the last stub bolt was stripped and that is where it was as leaking from there. Had some of that thread repair epoxy, filled hole with it and stuck the stud back into hole. I used one of them 100-watt lamps to keep area warm for a few hours since I have no heat in garage. I left it sit over night before I put it all back together. So far, it has been holding up but now I have an oil leak in the same area but lower down. The last oil leak in that area was the packing nut for the top head oil valve. It looks it may be the rocker cover. I hope that I can just tighten down on the nuts some because in order to do this gasket you need to pull head, valves etc. Moreover, I just put in new stainless steel valves, new valve springs and had the rockers fixed (welded).

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  • 2 weeks later...

This week my hands actually healed up. I've been busting knuckles trying to tear out a substantially rusted-in battery box on the 56 Cadillac limo. After 3 weeks on and off of hitting it and spraying and wrenching, it came free.

When I replaced one of the many leaking radiaitor heater hoses under the car, I managed to drink some anti-freeze when it shot into my mouth and rained on my head from the connection point. (Unsavory!)

I have the starboard fender well and inner fender repainted, the new battery box installed, and a new antique batery that fits back there installed and working. Getting the battery acid was fun, but I found that NAPA has just the right amount (6 qrts) in a small box with applicator hose. I did find a nice odor killer spray for the interior. At least I can stand sitting in it now.

Next on the agenda is cleaning and painting the port side fender well, and stripping the dirt and rust from the underside of the hood to repaint and prepare for a new hood pad.

I basically tired of my hands coming out blackened with grease and dirt- so I am painting the engine compartment around even though the engine isn't out yet. Not "kosher" but I come out less filthy each time I dive under.

Heading for the big engine rebuild to make the car drive-able again. It shook like an old steamship pushing 18 knots when it ran up to 25 mph when I got gas last week. Not good. Lots of work to do still. cool.gif

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Between shopping, getting Christmas decorations up, and finishing construction of a rocking boat for our grand-daugter, I've managed to get floor pans done for the 1919 Packard Twin Six. Check out the attached photo. The origional floor pan is standing up to the right. Also, have some ash planks roughed out for the body sills.

Regards,

Bill Boudway laugh.gif

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Guest DeSoto Frank

Bill,

God Bless You! The Packard Twin-Six is one of my favorites; looks like you 've got a real challenge on your hands !

As for myself, the '41 De Soto is the current project/driver...replaced two baloney-skins on the front end last month, and have a front-end kit waiting to go in. If I didn't have a '64 Valiant ragtop with no "rag" occupying the garage, I could get the De Soto in there and tear the front end down... crazy.gif

Was driving the De Soto almost daily until the snow flew and Penn DOT went heavy with the salt... mad.gif

This year's goal for the De Soto is to get the front suspension back to factory specs, replace the rear motor mounts and get rid of a driveshaft vibration, then install the Overdrive from a 1940 De Soto that's been in the garage for a year now.

Next winter I hope to pull the motor for a long-overdue rebuild, and perhaps begin floor replacment...

Happy Holidays!

smile.gif

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Guest Skyking

Last week I picked up all the chrome that I had plated for the Met. I used a local company that did a fantastic job at a very reasonal price. Tonight I installed the front bumper. Now the cars really starting to look new again. cool.gif

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My bodyman swears he's going to do some work on the 71 Riviera "right after the first of the year...gonna get on it". Where have I heard that before? We're going on two years now and down to the last corner, the right rear fener. But I also just bought a 56 Buick and have been scouring eBay for better chrome trim cores to take to the plater I use in Melbourne, Florida. Soon I guess I'll have 'em going and coming from the shops. A late best friend of mine who spent his whole adult life trying to get a 35 Auburn speedster restored (and unfortunately never completed it) used to tell me, "Earl, you don't have to be crazy to fool with old cars, but it sure helps." But I wonder, could I have had more fun playing golf? Uh,uh, they tried to teach that to me in high school and I hated the whole idea. Give me an old car any day. Merry Christmas to all.

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Guest Skyking

Earl, don't feel too bad, I have a friend who's 57 Caddy convertible has been sitting in a body shop for 6 years now. And all it went in there for was a small dent fixed and paint. I told him he should have gotten it out of there along time ago. Fortunatly he has other cars to use.

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Hey I work in Melbourne, you must use either Space Coast or Farmac. I'd guess Space Coast Plating, as they do a great deal of the collector stuff. Farmac does a bit too, but doesn't seem as widely known.

Now on to my works in progress...

Got more parts for the 1930 Chrysler 77 Roadster... but not work done on it in the last few weeks.

The 1959 Jaguar Mk IX Saloon has decided to be tempermental on starting in the cold... need to check the auxilliary start carburetor circuit.

The second Jaguar Mk IX Saloon, we started in on some of it's body work...

The 1974 Fiat turns over now and has good compression and spark, but won't fire, timing appears to be about right. I'll toss new wires and a new condensor on it, plenty of fuel in there, the spark looked a tad 'weak' on visual inspection, perhaps thats it. Put a new coil on, and plugs but didn't replace the condensor (yeah yeah I know I know...)

The 1981 Mustang needs an overhaul, new rings and pistons are in order... sigh...

The 1982 Fiat hasn't been touched...

The 1984 Volvo has no high beams, and drains the battery if I put the fuse in that supplies the courtesy lights etc... the AC still isn't working... but the engine is running great now, and the brakes are working great.

The 1984 Jaguar XJ6 Cold Start circuit isn't working right, need to finish tracking it to see if it is a wiring or component issue. I do however have it running now, and with some coaxing it will start on its own.

The 1989 Toyota just got new light fixtures today... AC needs work and there seems to be a new oil leak, and the radiator tank cracked (made of plastic <shudder>) epoxy to the rescue this morning!

The 1989 GMC Suburban is still eating serpentine belts, no one has found the misalignment or pulley issue yet... and the last belt took out the ac compressor clutch coil...

The 1991 Olds Cutlass Supreme International's paint is literally falling off, and it is the factory paint. It is just peeling off, leaving the primer behind. I tackled the few rust spots today and will be working on prepping it for a paint job.

Whew... oh yeah and Dad wants me to look at his 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan, he's got a few issues with it... and the neighbor across the street wants me to look at the motor on his boat... and then there is the brake job he needs help with... good lord... my hobby list is longer than my work list for tasks to compelete!

Rich

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"The 1989 GMC Suburban is still eating serpentine belts, no one has found the misalignment or pulley issue yet... and the last belt took out the ac compressor clutch coil..."

Rich, usually this can be traced to the tensioner, maybe worn out and not "flexing" or adjusting as it should, either that or you may have some hogged out bolt holes allowing for flex under load but look fine when not running or idling. Or it could also be gremlins lurking beneath the hood but when you open the hood they can't be seen--kinda like the light in the fridge.

grin.gif

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Well. I've put it off long enough. Tomorrow I'll start changing shocks, oil change, replace taillight, on my 64 Belvedere. Then, see if my 80 Spider will at least turn over (hopefully will start). I just picked that one up at an auction. Try to get the seat back bolted down on my T. Move the parts for my 64 Fury hot rod out of the house & into garage. Change oil on the F-250, and get the 40 Ford ready to go to the paint shop.

this hobby sure is a of work !!!! smile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gif

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6 YEARS???? I got 'em beat. Before we got our shop built, the local body shop took delivery of my Mustang in 1991, and didn't finish it until 1999. Needless to say he hasn't done anything else for us. The guy is good, but he doesn't like doing what he calls "project cars" He makes his money doing insurance jobs. But on the flip side, we get our paint and materials through him at his cost, and he has offered to send projects out of his shop and into ours.

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First off those red cheeks are both blush and burn...

Yep I'm still working on cars...

Some notes about epoxy, plastic radiator tanks, Plastic Weld & Common Sense...

1) Epoxy does not adhere to all forms of plastic...

2) The pressure in an '89 Toyota Camry will blow an epoxy patch off the car.

3) Plastic Weld works wonderfully and bonds well to the radiator tank

4) After test driving the car for about 30 minutes, and carefully opening the hood to check the 'patch', appearances can be deceiving. The plastic-weld patch is stronger than the tank...

The results of the notes...

After a good test drive with engine up to normal operating temperatures a check of the radiator showed that the patch was holding pressure just fine. Colleen came out and we discussed that it looked like the patch would last the week until I could get a radiator installed. As Colleen turned to walk around to shut the car off the other side of the tank split spewing its contents directly on to my face. I was about 3' away from the radiator, however it split it did not explode, which created a high pressure stream of very hot water. Obviously I'm not blind, I'm typing this. No I did not go to the Emergency Room (though in retrospect it might have been wiser). Yes I did receive burns to my face, but they range from scalds to first degree burns, I'll live, but it gives new meaning to Ouch, and "It hurts to smile". I wear glasses so the eyes were protected, the lips, dimples and nose were not so lucky... fortunately the moustache took some of the 'heat' quite literally.

Moral of this story...

Don't patch... replace... and when standing in front of a suspect radiator, always keep something between you and it... that towel you have in your hand to block the steam if it is leaking, won't help when you drop your guard thinking eveything is okay.

I was lucky... my face hurts, and is red... and will hurt for some time... however... I was lucky...

That was how my weekend of 'car repairs' ended...

Earlier the same day I came to the realization that in fact cylinders 3 & 4 have zero compression on the '74 Fiat Spider. Looks like I'll be pulling the head on it one way or another, whether it is valves or the pistons, the heads going to have to come off. I'll start by pulling the cam covers (as recommended by some Fiat folks) and see what I can see... the rest will go from there.

Rich

PS: Oh yeah, and keep your mouth shut when the hoods up on the car... hot radiator fluid tastes lousy and burned tongues are NOT fun... frown.gif

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Rich, well, merry Christmas anyway. Geeez be careful will ya! Many things in these autos can be quite harmfull from radiators under pressure to batteries, to hot oil and other midevil torture devices.

In my younger days, I raced off road, endurance and wheel to wheel competetion.

While working on a Ford Bronco tuning it for a race I like many before and since, leaned over the engine and reved the S_ _ t out of it to see how it performed and responded. Then I walked back to talk to my friend that was sitting behind the wheel watching the guages. All of a sudden, the propped up hood shook, at the same time the engine began to vibrate. A blade from the engine fan came off flew up and put a nice crease in the hood, landed some 20 feet away from the car after it's richochet off the hood and the engine was vibrating due to the imbalance. This all with the engine at idle seconds after I had been leaning over it revving it to the max. I should have died many times many years ago. blush.gifconfused.gif

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I was putting the engine in a friend's Amphicar yesterday. The entire rear end was covered with moving pads.... all but 6 square inches. The cherry picker's valve wasn't tight, so it slowly came down leaving a 5" scratch in the fin on his newly painted car. frown.giffrown.giffrown.giffrown.giffrown.gif To date I have never scratched any car but my own because I take great care in protecting the paint. This hurts worse that the burn on my hand I mentioned before. frown.gif

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Dave,

The radiator is readily available, in stock a few places, unfortunately timing is everything. Radiators are hard to come by late on Saturday, the local Discount/Advance Auto Parts couldn't have one until Tuesday and no one else was open late Saturday. I was slated to leave town late Sunday (obviously that plan got changed) and not return until Christmas Eve. I was trying to get the radiator to last long enough to get the daughter to and from work 3 times (about a 20 mile round trip) over the course of the coming week so I could replace the radiator Friday or Saturday. I ended up postponing leaving until late Monday morning so I could 1) make sure I still had a face, 2) face wouldn't scare clients, 3) Toyota (daughter drives it) would be at the shop to get a new radiator. Bottom line... I was trying to save the $100 or so someone else would charge to install it. Needless to say it went to the local shop that I trust and have done business with for some time. $206 and some burns later there is a new radiator in the car (Mechanic didn't put antifreeze in, left that for me to save me a few bucks, good guy all the way around).

Final result of this story... that honeycomb radiator I repaired for the 30 Chrysler 77 Roadster is going out first of the year for a new core. Lesson learned... I hope... though it was solder repaired, it's old and I just feel better about having a new core in it. Funny how our perspective can change when our life and or limbs are put in jeopardy... suddenly that core doesn't seem so expensive.

Roadster Rich the Red Faced car collector...

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Working on the Mustang. Got the carburetor on, still have to connect the fuel lines, get it running, and then start putting the interior together. I'm also in the middle of polishing the factory alloy wheels.

On the fire truck, the frame is in primer, the paint formulas are done, so it is a matter of ordering the paint. From there it's the long task of doing the body work. The engine is still getting rebuilt.

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I got an early Christmas present yesterday when the UPS guy came with 10 boxes, tubes, and packages of Chrome and Stainless.

So I am sitting here today, looking and labeling all the new looking Chrome pieces for my car.

Wood is almost finished on the Buick, should be able to get the car next month. Buick Nationals in June are coming up fast.

Merry Christmas everyone.

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Guest Indiana_Truck

198043-68LR.JPG

I picked up this 1968 Mustang a couple of weeks ago that has been someones project since about 1986. It was sanded almost to bare metal all over but then left to rust inside a garage. I got it home and had it running in an hour and started sanding on it the next day. Most of the parts were off when I got to it but came with the car and since I know where everything goes it just saved me the time taking the stuff off. I have done some sandblasting on it since this picture was taken yesterday but this shows the condition. Body is the most solid 68 Mustang I have seen in over 20 years. I should have paint on it in a couple more weeks and start putting it back together. This one will come out in the spring and go to a few local shows and have a for sale sign in it to help raise money for other projects. If it doesn't sell, I will just keep it for a real nice driver in the summer.

Bob

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