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Everything posted by RoadsterRich

  1. I am looking for original (or copies) of Chrysler Service Bulletins from 1929 through the mid 1930's. Rich
  2. Diz, Now we know why you're always Dizzy. This does explain quite a bit. I had heard your wife always outshines you, perhaps this explains that as well Matt, I just spent a little time browsing your site. Great job on the site and the restoration. I am thinking about ordering the Caswell Flash Copper and Nickel plating systems. I have a friend who is retired, but use to work in the plating industry. He swears that 99% of the shine/finish is the result of the prep work. He does include the copper plating as part of the prep work on a chrome plate job. I have some pot metal parts that I sent out, they came back looking horrible. The company did not fill in the pits, they ground/buffed/polished until there were no pits. The parts are ruined. This is what has lead me to at consider doing at least the prep work for the plating myself. I paid alot of money to have several parts ruined. Fortunately I was conservative on the first batch I sent (which I had to wait 9 weeks to get back) and sent parts I could readily replace. I'm looking at powder coat systems too, but I'll save those questions for another post so we can keep this one on subject... plating. Rich
  3. A friend of mine's mother makes miniatures and does quite a bit of plating, brass, nickel, chrome, gold, etc. I mentioned that I had a ton of small parts that needed plated and he described the process his mother uses. It is a very labor/time intensive process due to the preperation work. From my understanding of his explanation, a large part of the quality of a plating job comes from the preperation. In any event, I have been toying with the idea of trying my hand at plating on some of the small parts I have. In particular ones I have duplicates of and that are relatively easy to come by. She uses plating kits from Caswell, Electroplating in minature ( Caswell Plating). I am interested in hearing from others who have tried plating. I do have the added benefit of my friend (and more importantly his mothers) intimate knowledge of plating small parts. This is a cyanide free process, and from what I have heard and read so far produces excellent results. They have copper, nickel and chrome plating kits. Plating kits are in no way cheap, however it looked like something interesting to learn about. So if you have experience (be it good, bad or indifferent) with plating yourself let me know! I would love to hear a nice discussion on this. I thought I had read about some folks using Eastwoods plating kit but could not locate the post. I seem to remember the results for those by consensus were mediocre, however it has been a bit since I read them. Not even sure they were here... Rich
  4. I dug out a period brake manual and came up with the following possible likely candidates for using the same drums: Chrysler: . 1929 65 & 75 . 1930 70 & 77 . 1931 70 Dodge: . 1928-1930 Senior 6 It looks like other marquees may have used the same drums as well; however from my reference circa 1937, these are the only Chrysler related vehicles using the 14" Lockheed drums. Rich
  5. The H H Franklin club folks are attempting to get a group together to reproduce the 14" brake drums used by the Franklins. These are 16" outer diameter (at the flange), 14" inner diameter, with approximately 2.25" shoe contact area (roughly 2" shoes). These appear to be the same drums as used on my 1930 Chrysler 77. The difference of course is in the size of the center holes and in the rivet/lug bolt patterns. Aside from the Model 77 with wire wheels, would there be an interest in the wood wheel drums? Also what other models/years used these same drums? I assume that at some point the Chrysler 70 used them in the 1930/1931 model years. Did the Imperial? What about the 66? the 1929 75? the CJ? The drums would be without the hubs, the original hubs would need to be riveted to them and the drums turned true at that point. I am not privy to all of their details at this time but thought I would see if enough interest existed for me to further pursue the matter on others behalf. If there is enough interest I am more than happy to spearhead the Chrysler side of things. Bottom line for me is, I am definitely interested in at least one, maybe two sets for wire wheels, and possibly one or two sets for artillery wheels. If others have interest or desire additional information please feel free to contact me. Rich
  6. The arrival... The car arrived around 2PM, Thursday, 5/26/2005. It was hot, and only the driver and I were there to unload it from the upper deck of an enclosed car hauler, with no winches. The driver worked hard, and with my help the car was unloaded over about an hours time, relatively uneventful... though it did roll a good 50' after the end of the ramp, it had another 100' to go before it encountered any brush... I am not happy with the service DAS provided. I am very unhappy that myself and my 'agent' at the originating end both had to help with the load/unload of the car. I paid a premium because it was inoperable and had no brakes. I would personally like them to reimburse myself and the person at the originating end for our trouble and time. On a positive note the car arrived with no obvious worse for wear signs... the car was a basket case to start with, but priceless if you need the parts All in all... I will never use nor recommend Dependable Auto Shippers. I would consider using Diamond B's services directly in the future, but I would want written confirmation that they understood the condition of the car and were responsible for all loading/unloading of the vehicle. I firmly believe the failure lay with DAS, however I'd want to be safe rather than sorry. So... there is now a second 1930 Chrysler 77 at the ranch... it's fate is yet to be determined... however knowing us... it will likely be a future project. For now it is a donor... Rich
  7. Well... maybe just maybe things are resloved... but I'll believe it when its unloaded... 10:45AM - tired of waiting for return call, try calling logistics person... no answer... 11:00AM - tried again... still no answer just voice mail 11:15AM - tried again... still no answer... so I call the agent again. He pulls it up and this time he says he will get right on it. Says he will call me back within the hour. 11:30AM - Agent calls back. He says he has talked to people and that everything is taken care of. That if there are any expenses in unloading they will handle it and I will not need to cover it. Says they have been in contact with the driver and with the company. 11:42AM - Diamond B Trucking calls me. Very nice people, tell me that DAS brokered the job and they are the haulers. They apologize for the confusion, though by now I know that DAS did not notify them that the car had no brakes. For that matter I know that DAS failed to note that the car had no brakes in their records, though they explicit asked me about this. They had however noted that it did not run. The woman I spoke with was very courteous and handled everything very professionally. I am to this point extremely impressed with Diamond B out of Wyoming. DAS had called and told them that the driver wanted money from me, which was absolutely not what was said. What I told them was that I had been informed I needed to provide a tow truck to unload the car. Well long and short of it is, Diamond B appears to be taking care of the situation. Their driver and their office personal gave me direct numbers so I can contact them if I have any questions or concerns. The driver has been giving me regular updates today on his location and progress. The long and the short of it is DAS at a minimum in my opinion misrepresented their service. At no time was I told they were brokering this deal for another company. At no time was I told that the transport would not be satellite tracked. At no time while selling me thier service did they tell me that their insurance coverage is limited to $250, they certainly were eager to say they were insured. Foolishly I did not ask if they were 'fully insured'. I guess their trucks are, the contents are not. So... what have I learned so far?... 1) When moving a car cross country, its darn expensive. 2) Reputations are a great thing, but sometimes you need to look at recent reputation rather than long term. I based my decision on long term reputation, on further scrutiny I see that while their overall reputation is good, there have been a large number of recent complaints against them. 3) Ask if they are brokering for another company or are hauling it themselves. 4) You don't always get what you pay for... more $$$ does not mean better service. 5) Small family owned businesses seem to give far better feedback and customer relations than larger older firms. 6) Ask lots of questions up front about insurance, who will be transporting your vehicle, how it will be transported, how it will be picked up, delivered, will it be offloaded and reloaded enroute, where will any layovers be? Can the truck that is delivering it fit down your road? Well long and the short of it is... the car is due to be delivered sometime between 10AM and 2PM tomorrow. It is an 80' truck, 17' tall... We are on the end of a dead end road, can he get down the road and turn around? Heck if I know, I have trouble turning a 20' enclosed trailer around at the end. Oh well... at least the car is actually physically in the state of Florida now, it will be stopping in Tampa a little later this afternoon and in Miami tonight. Then it will head north for us... woohoo... I should be getting some pictures of it being loaded on to the truck, and I will be sure to take some of it being offloaded. This could be quite the local event. Rich
  8. Due to hurricanes, parental health issues, work, did I mention hurricanes?, I haven't been around much in the last 6 or 7 months. We just got our new roof a couple of weeks ago from last Septembers hurricanes. The windows that were broken were replaced about a month ago. The stucco work has still not been completed. The shop has new walls, but the roof is still leaking on it, no eta on when or if they'll ever fix it, I may just give up the lease on it. Oh yeah, and our privacy fence still need replaced, though it at least is sortof patched together. In the meantime we acquired a 3rd 1959 Mk IX Jaguar (2 are parts cars), a 2nd 1930 Chrysler 77 (who's fate has yet to be determined it may be parts car or may get restored). We also acquired two mid 80's Jaguar XJ6's, one of which has already been sold. We are scrapping two of the three Fiat 124's we have. One was just too rusty to salvage and the other took too much damage from the hurricanes. Oh and I acquired a 1988 Jaguar XJ-SC with the HE V12, no rust, 55,000 original miles, maintained by a dealership its entire life. This leaves our car stable at: 1930 Chrysler 77 Roadster (AKA Miles) - In process of restoration 1930 Chrysler 77 Sedan (No Name) - Fate to be determined 1959 Jaguar MK IX Saloon (Jezebelle) - Legal & On Road - in restoration 1981 Fiat 124 Spider (Roxy) - Daily Driver for Colleen 1985 Jaguar XJ6 VDP (No Name) - Lawn ornament till I fix the fuel tanks 1988 Jaguar XJ-SC Cabriolet V12 HE (BJ) - Daily Driver for Richard 1989 GMC Suburban 1500SLX (Urbie) - Tow Vehicle, interior just redone 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme International (No Name) - Backup Daily Driver With the following parts cars: 1958 Jaguar Mk IX Saloon (Mr. Magoo) - Parts Car due to rust 1960 Jaguar Mk IX Saloon (No Name) - Painfully a parts car, nice body 1974 Fiat 124 Spider (The Baby) - Parting out due to rust 1982 Fiat 124 Spider (Buster) - Parting out due to hurricane damage Our 1984 Volvo 240DL was totaled between hurricanes by a hit and run driver, the car did not survive, our daughter did. The 1989 Toyota Camry blew a head gasket and was retired. The 1974 Fiat Spider is being parted out and will be gone within a month or two. The 1982 Fiat Spider is being used as spare parts for the 1981 Fiat, but will be parted out and gone within a few months. Two of the MK IX Jaguars will be leaving as soon as we are certain we have removed what we need from them. Sold the 1983 XJ6 2 months after we got it for almost double what I paid for it. Sold the 1992 Olds Custom Cruiser wagon too. Trying to get down to a manageable project situation I have just in the past week or two been able to start tinkering with Miles and Jez again. I hope to be moving forward on them over the summer. The Mk IX is legal on the roads, but needs significant body work and a carburetor rebuild, not to mention major interior work. Miles ('30 Roadster) needs the brakes finished up and his wood work done. Then it will be body work and reassembly for him. Guess that is the status up date on me and the cars... Oh yeah, its 10AM, still no call from the car shippers about thier 'mistake', and the car is due to be delivered in under 24 hours now... supposedly. Rich
  9. A chronolgy of frustration... May 11th Contract with DAS (Dependable Auto Shippers) to haul car from Oregon to Florida via an enclosed car hauler. Told car will be picked up in one to two weeks, and delivered within 7 days of pickup. DAS was notified that the car did not run and did not have brakes, but was free rolling and steerable (extra charge paid for all this). May 14th Get phone call from seller of car. Transport was there to pick up the car. Showed up with a full car hauler to load the car on the upper deck, and no winch to get it up there with. Fortunately seller is in the wrecker business and has equipment to load it with, somehow they get it loaded... May 15th Check online tracking system. Says car is awaiting pickup. May 16th Check online tracking system. Says car is awaiting pickup. May 17th Check online tracking system. Says car is awaiting pickup. I call DAS and speak to the logistics person in charge of my 'order'. She places me on hold for awhile then returns to the phone. At this point I am told that the online tracking is only for "The other division of DAS." Now their website clearly states: "Technology moves almost as fast as Dependable Auto Shippers does. Satellite tracking provided by Qualcomm allows all of DAS's customers to log on to the web site to get the exact location of their car transport vehicle en route." Obviosly this is at a minimum misleading advertisement. After some discussion over this I am informed that the car is scheduled to be delivered either Saturday the 21st or Monday the 23rd. I'm not happy about the online tracking being unavailable, but at least I know the car is on its way. I am also told the driver will contact me 24 hours prior to delivery. May 20th No call from the driver. May 21st No call from the driver, no delivery. May 22nd No call from the driver. May 23rd No call from the driver, no delivery. May 24th I call DAS logistics. I give them my order number. They tell me a truck has been dispatched to pick up my car. I explain to them that my car has been picked up, they ask how I know this, I tell them that their driver picked up the car and the seller at the other end has faxed me the paperwork. I am placed on hold again, they come back and explain that they have no notes on the pickup (note this is the same person I talked to on the 17th that gave me a delivery date on the car). I am told they will have to get hold of the dispatcher and find out where the truck with the car on it is. This is around 11AM. I wait... and wait... and wait... about 4:30 I call again, I am told that the dispatcher has not gotten in touch with the driver yet. Further more I find out that they do this either via email or cell phone depending on the driver, and that they cannot control when they respond. To further make me feel better (yeah...) they relate a story of a driver who recently was hospitalized and they did not find out about it for quite some time (nor did they know where his load was.) Well this is all very interesting since their site clearly stated they had satellite tracking. At 5:07PM the driver of the truck calls me and explains that the car will be delivered on Thursday morning. He is very nice and gives me his name and cell number should I have any questions or need to contact him. Then I am told that the car is on the upper deck of the carrier and he has no way to unload it as it doesn't have brakes. He informs me that **I** will need to have a tow truck there to assist in the unloading. Okay, enough is enough, I paid for DOOR to DOOR delivery. I paid a premium based on reputation, online tracking, the fact that the car was not driveable, and that I was getting door to door enclosed service. To further add insult to injury I find out that they are using "Diamond B Services" to haul my car. It is not even on a DAS trailer nor is it being hauled by a DAS truck or driver. I call logistics, gee no answer, just voice mail. I call back to the agent who sold me the service, after 3 attempts he does answer. He tells me I have the wrong division because they don't use the 10 car haulers. We go round and round for a bit, and he says someone made a mistake. Well thats just fine, but he doesn't offer me a solution to the whole need a tow truck to unload situation. He ultimately passes the buck and transfers me back to the logistics person who I already know has gone home for the day... so I leave a message and now I wait to see what's next... I don't even see how a tow truck can assist in unloading the car from the upper deck of a carrier. Further more I can't imagine why anyone would put a car with no brakes on the upper deck to begin with. And are 10 car haulers open or enclosed? I guess I'll find that out when they get here... I paid for enclosed. As it is, I am tempted to call the credit card company and put a hold on the payment until the issues are resolved. At the very minimum I have been misled... and at least at this point in time it seems I am also expected to pay for and fix their mistakes... We shall see how tomorrow goes... suffice it to say, the experience has not endeared DAS to me... to say the least. Well maybe I am over reacting, but at the moment I'm absolutely steamed... perhaps tomorrow will be better for my blood pressure... Rich
  10. Wayne, Thanks! Must have been Doug's camera snapping all those pictures then. Rich
  11. Ken, I wonder if you could adapt something simlar to a Ford EDIS to your Rover. It uses a toothed wheel which is attached to the crankshaft, with one missing tooth. It uses this to determine timing. I'm no expert, but the concept shouldn't be too hard to apply. On the Fords I believe this is a fairly substantial toothed wheel, with a sensor to detect the teeth and an electronic control module to fire the coils. In the case of the Fords I've seen each plug has its own coil, completely bypassing the distributor. Probably not practical to mount in your vehicle, but an interesting concept in itself... particularly in that the dwell and timing are completely electronically controlled. I ran across this information looking at the Megqsquirt FI project, there is a spin off project with EDIS control. Interesting stuff... Rich
  12. I can make some pictures of a 77, not sure how close it is to the 66 but if it will help I'll snap off some photos while the car's apart and send them your way. Rich
  13. Um, er well Judy, you know funny thing about the cars and parts program. We had so much enthusiasim over the "Chip" program that we lost track of time and well er... um... well we never did the Cars and Parts program (ducking for cover!) I know there are more pictures of the kids over the course of the day Colleen took quite few with our camera, however it is having a moment and won't eject the card. I can view them on the camera, just not get them to the computer to share. Also I believe that Doug should have quite a few pictures as well. I'll check with other club members too, I believe Joe Pinson may have taken some as well. I'll try to coordinate getting them to you. I'll see if I can catch Doug and remind him to send them to both of us. Rich PS: Come to think of it, Earl may have had a camera too, Earl you out there?
  14. http://www.ccraaca.org/nmt2004/SI.asp?FN=Scan0128.jpg These three were measuring tire tread depth, measuring inflation, and pointing out the parts of the cooling system. http://www.ccraaca.org/nmt2004/SI.asp?FN=Scan0126.jpg These two were participating in the coloring books. http://www.ccraaca.org/nmt2004/SI.asp?FN=Scan0125.jpg This was the sign for the junior activities. http://www.ccraaca.org/nmt2004/SI.asp?FN=Scan0127.jpg If this one doesn't break your monitors, I'm sure you can figure out who the three in the photo are... Rich PS: I'm the one in the red shirt that looks like he has been up all night (go figure), and been on the showfield since 5AM... this picture was taken in the afternoon.
  15. One other question, does your car have the armored cable from the distributor to the ignition switch? I believe the 65 originally had an electrolock armored switch assembly between the ignition switch and the coil. If so let me know, I believe I have the wiring diagram for the 65, I will double check when I get in this evening. The wiring diagram for my Chrysler 77, which is likely similar can be found at: http://www.1930chrysler77.com/wiring.htm Rich
  16. First thing I'd recommend doing is to pull the distributor cap and look at the points. Do they have a white or gray powdery look to them? If so it is likely they are corroded. This is the most common problem I've had with a car sitting and then not having spark. You can use some fine emory cloth, or if you have one a point file to clean the contacts. If you have to file much you may need to readjust the points when done, however cleaning should let you get spark even if the points are out a little bit. It is also possible that the condensor may have developed a short, or that the coil has gone bad, though these are far less likely. Other things to test for are 6 volts (negative) at the negative terminal of the coil with regards to ground (assuming the car is still it's original 6 volt positive ground system). If you are not getting 6 volts to the negative coil terminal then you have an issue with either the wiring or your ignition switch. You can check for power to the coil by turning your engine over until the points are visibly closed. Hook up either a multimeter (volt meter) or test light across the terminals of the coil. You should read 6 volts, or the light should glow. If you are getting power to the coil and the ground through the points is good, then it is likely your coil is not good. You can check the points if you have a multimeter by again making sure the points are closed by turning the engine over until the lobe is not against the points. At this point you should get a zero, or near zero reading between the points and ground. If it reads much more than a couple of ohms you most likely have a corrosion issue either with the points, or with connections somewhere in the wiring system. I'm sure there are many other things to check as well, and there are actual experts floating around the forums that can provide greater insights. Hope this helps, I have a Chrysler 77 and have had the corroded points issue when the car sat for a couple of months. Florida is harsh on electrics. Rich
  17. Additional Southeastern Division Winter National Meet 2004 photographs can be viewed online at: http://www.ccraaca.org/nmt2004/ These were taken by Dick Klenotich, except for pictures 8, 9 and 10, which were taken by Brian Hayes. Hope ya'll enjoy them... there are plenty there to browse... Rich
  18. Wayne, I've been through them all... no pictures of the Juniors. We didn't drive on to the field with the rest of the cars, we set up at 10PM the night before by the light of Surban Headlights. We arrived on the field about 5AM show day and put out all the Junior stuff and set up Miles for display. In looking at the pictures I see just how much of the show I didn't get to see. Next time definitely have to have relief at some point in the day as we really didn't get to see the show itself... Rich
  19. Wayne, I don't think I'm in any of the pictures posted there... we were on the show field from 5:30AM to 4PM the day of the show setting up for, working with, and cleaning up from the Juniors. There are pictures of me around, just not professional ones, they do have their standards you know! Rich
  20. Dear Ron... thank you! It is always good to not be alone... Dear Ken.... PpPpPpppthhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! Rich
  21. Steve, Now that is a very good question. I've always assumed they were cast iron, but never checked. For that matter I'm not totally sure how to check. I'll read up in the manuals and see if they discuss it. The linings that were in it were from the 50's or 60's and had been worn down to the rivets on the rear pads, while the front pads looked like they were brand new. Is there an easy way to distinguish the steel from the cast iron? I know mine readily rust if moisture gets near them... Rich
  22. You are the third person to point out the opportune timing today. I guess the extra can of paint and time are a small price to pay... I had dropped the right side of the car down yesterday afternoon, but the right side is still on jack stands. Interesting this puts the Master Cylinder a bit above the wheel cylinder. Normally it is pretty close to even with it... I'm thinking this did indeed turn out to be a good, albeit aggravating, thing... at least with regards to the timing. Rich
  23. Diz, That wasn't a gun... it was a lug wrench Appropriate for a lug nut, no? Rich
  24. Thanks! I'll keep them in mind. I used a local company but they seemed a bit pricey, and I'm only moderately happy with the results. Not to mention it took them over two weeks to get the job done. Rich
  25. I'm certain every restoration has its list of those 'Moments' that we could all just live without... My latest one today came as I am finishing up working on the brake on Miles (our 1930 Chrysler 77 Roadster). I slipped out early for lunch today so I could put the final coat of paint on the drivers side backing plate in preperation for finishing up the brakes. As I opened the garage door I could see by the right front wheel... what appears to be the entire contents brake fluid puddled around the tire... Apparently one (or both) of the piston seals were defective and let loose some where between last night and mid day today. These are brand new wheel cylinders, not remanufactured, not sleeved originals. I really was not expecting this. I think what upset me the most was that my newly painted backing plate and drum were going to have to be repainted. I used VHT's brake paint, but I'm thinking with it only a few days old and not really cured it won't hold up to the brake fluid. To top off the frustration, I had given myself what I thought was a generous goal of having the brakes completed by this weekend so I could move Miles in and out of the garage to work on the cooling system and his clutch issue. I am deeply disapointed and highly frustrated, though not deterred! I won't have the brakes up by this weekend, as I need to get a rebuild kit for the wheel cylinder. Also it will take at least two and preferably three days to get the paint redone on the drum and backing plate. Oh well, I guess this will give me time to try my hand at making that brake adjusting tool so I can properly set up the brakes this time. Sure hope the brake fluid didn't mess with the new linings on the shoes... sigh... A tired and down but not out... Rich
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