1938 Buick Spl 2dr Sdn

[Wm Steed]

Now that I have been able to reconnect with the BCA-36-38 Buick forum, I will re-introduce myself to the Clubs Members.

I have been a 'car guy' since I was a teenager, developed a love for Buicks early on.

When I was in high school in the early '50's I got involved with a guy that had a '40 Buick Century Coupe that had a highly modified 320 CID engine. We took the car to The Bonneville Salt Flats speed week in September of 1951. The car set a speed record that was written up in the November 1951 Hotrod Magazine.

I bought my first vintage Buick in 2008, a 40 Super 4dr. A very nice car that need a lot of TLC. I worked on the car for several years, then in 2020 I encountered the 38 Buick Spl 2 dr sdn, an original unmolested one owner car with 37K on the odometer, I could not pass it up.

My story relating to the restoration of a vintage unmolested '38 Buick is to follow. Wm

[Talarico8447]

Nice car! It's a beauty. And thanks for sharing your story.

[Mark Shaw]

Yours looks a lot like my 38 Buick that is now son's car.   I drove it up Pikes Peak and only made it to timberline with four on board before it vapor locked. 

I saw one guy dump his ice chest on top of his V8 to make it to the top.  But most importantly, we passed with flying colors at the brake check station on the way down.  Many others had to just sit and wait for their brakes to cool down before they were allowed to proceed.

 

 

[neil morse]

Wow!  Two beauties right there.

[Wm Steed]

I think most car guys dream about finding a low mileage "barn find" that was put away when the original owner went off to war and did not and/or passed away a few months after the car was purchased and the family put the car away in memory of the original owner. There are many versions of this story.

The history of my '38 is very vague. When I found the car on Hemmings I was told that the car came from Kanasa City, a woman there bought the car new, she reputedly owned the car until it was sold to a man in Kansas that kept car in the original condition as when he bought it.

Documentation that came with the car, service records that documented the 37k on the odometer.

Reading through the service records I noted that there were no entry's from 1940 to 1946. I assumed that the car was put in storage during the WWll years, which was very common during the war.

We I received the car via Intercity Lines it was spotless clean, started right up and drove out of the trailer. The interior was in near perfect condition, it appeared that very few people had ever sat in the back seat. Other than slight ware on the upper corners of the front seat from people resting their hand on the seat to gain entry into the car. Slight ware had occurred on the door wood grain from people resting their arm on the window sill, which was a common practice at the time.
All of the instruments worked, the radio, heater etc., all worked, when I opened the glove box, the light came on .

A review of the chassis and mechanical components proved to be a big disappointment. Every component that had fluid, oil, brakes and coolant were leaking were ever the car went, it left a trial. The motor/trans mounts were a soggy oil soaked mess, wooden blocks had been wedged between the engine and the frame to support it. When the drums were removed the majority of the parts, springs, etc., fell out. It would appear that very few if any actual repairs had ever been done to the car. i was a little suspect as to what I was going the find when I found a can of brake fluid and gear oil in the trunk.

I had noted prior to buying the car that it had 700.15 White wall tires and later hub caps... I knew that the 38 Century's came with 15" tires so I assumed the wheels/ties were changed to 15" to save money on the tires. The spare in the trunk is correct for the car, 16" gray with pin stripping, the wheels on the ground are black.

I was kind of upsetting when we took the tires off and found that all four wheels were of a different size, ranging from 5.25" to 6.25 inches, with different back sets. A problem, but not insurmountable, I had a complete set of later model 15" x 6.5 that are now powder coated gray to match the car. Wm

[EmTee]

I think you're still ahead of the game with a nice interior and good body.  The good news is mechanical parts for these are readily available at reasonable prices.  If you are mechanically adept you can work through the issues as time and funds allow.  It's a pretty easy car to work on and this forum is a great resource.  The biggest expenses I have had while sorting my '38 Century (so far) are a radiator re-core and set of reproduction bias-ply tires at about $1000 each.

[Wm Steed]

Dealing with the many issues of a low mileage car (37K) is not a big deal, I have dealt with that problem before, just about every mechanical component has to be rebuilt which nowadays runs into a lot of money.. A re-core on the radiator, $850., water-pump $350, gaskets. seals, bearings and brakes over $3k.

The clutch proved to be a real problem, a three year only item, 36-38, no body in the entire US has one. People are not returning their used clutches for cores so that source has dried up. Been waiting for almost two months for my clutch to be rebuilt.

My '38 has the standard 440 gears in the rear end which from my point of view is not very user friendly, makes the car not very highway friendly,  anything over 50 mph would be pushing it. I like to drive my vintage cars, take them to coffee cruises, car shows, etc., and keep up with traffic and stop quickly when the traffic stops.

I spent three days calling every person/company whose name I was given that would have a 3.90 rear end that would fir my car. Found one on the east coast, only problem was that there were four people ahead of me in the line that had spoken for the rear end. It has evolved that any vehicle older that 66-67 is considered to be 'un-obtainium'..

I have a '63 Riviera rear end that is completely rebuilt, it would bolt right into my '38 using C-10 trailing arms which I have. A friend of mine did that to his 38 Century many  years ago, he used a Ford C-4 trans.

Two problems came up, could not get a gear set for the Riviera rear end that would get the gearing down to 3.50/3.90. Plan B was to get a T-5 OD trans that was modified to bolt into my car with no alterations.. It was decided to change the rear end to a later model GM 10 bolt rear end using the C-10 trailing arm and coil springs.

I like OD transmissions, I have two vehicles that have OD's, a '36 Ford that has a Columbia that I have owned for 71 years and a '64 Chevy C-10 with a 4L60 AOD.. Wm.

[IFDPete]

You have a great car to work on.  Beautiful inside and out.

 

Check with French Lake Auto in Minnesota on rear end and clutch core.  Classic car junk yard.  They shipped me a lower ratio 3.4x rear gear pumpkin from a 53 Buick that fit my 1949 replacing a 4.4x.  Not sure what years are compatible with yours.  My engine rpm down 25%.  Just had to get a Speedometer ratio adapter to attach to the transmission for accurate speed and odometer.  Can now go highway speeds without my straight 8 screaming.  Gas mileage up from 12 or 13 mpg to 16.  Only down side....my Dynaslow car went from 0 to 60 in 27 seconds with the old 4.4 gears ..now 0 to 60 in 32 with the 3.4x.  So I am always running later than before for ice cream, errands, and when the wife wants me to just get home....but I get to enjoy the ride in my time capsule a little longer.

 

Other places to call or search from on web...

Buds Auto salvage Arkansas

Desert Valley Auto Parts Arizona

CTC Auto Ranch Texas

 

CTC currently shows three 1938 parts cars on their website to strip parts from.

 

www.ctcautoranch.com/Parts Cars/Buick/1958 and Back/1958 and Back Sub-Pages/1958 and Back.html

 

 

Happy hunting.  Pete

Edited November 24, 2023 by IFDPete
Website (see edit history)

[IFDPete]

1938 Remanufactured Clutch Disc on Ebay Now - Ready to go - 

 

Obviously I have nothing to do on Friday after thanksgiving...

Not for you as per your post your clutch is being rebuilt - however, for others reading this post and in need of a clutch disc - here is one posted on Ebay - $100 OBO.  Seems like a good buy if they are as rare as you say:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285549226936?hash=item427c0f6bb8:g:dGEAAOSwK6RlTWz~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwLQgNmdptLmCfQTz37be%2FDBOUcA5JwKY9AbEBxCnRo0vyIhYjFHPI%2FgzFwTWeYVjOZ9nJYNbDaHcu7mCYtz6kA094VbYeZdHw28rD0lnOIpVO2bQRuOphvMHmiKq7S2ddKw4BdCF3ntsuq5HU1kHBYN7sqaycXXxrck1M5noo2VxKX8ohJ4RRpn5zOGG83r59OaLZO2AIYIRjy2p6qOaEAr9uUhXlyEYITKIevEb0YlEMvY0okl0wZ5yTRTZPyCDsQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7zxpqOAYw

 

Hopefully someone needs this - Pete

Edited November 24, 2023 by IFDPete (see edit history)

[Wm Steed]

Thank you for the reply/info on parts sources for my Buick... I knew about most of the vintages car parts sources that you mentioned, I had forgotten about French Lake, which I should not have forgotten, I bought parts from them for my 53 Olds Super 88.

Unfortunately I think I am a little bit behind the curve in my quest to find parts for a '38 Buick. If would appear that the '38's are a little ahead of the auto evolution.. The rear coil spring suspension started in '38, as did the automatic transmission. I knew that Buick came out with the 4sp Hydra-Matic trans in '38 before the article in the October Bugle featured the article about the '38 Spl Conv.

I have had a lot of experience with the Hydra-Matic transmissions, I have had a '50 &53 Olds, a 55 Pontiac and a 65 Chevy C-20... Many people complained about the Hydro being crude with ruff shifting, I have to disagree.

The die has already been cast to modify my '38 with a T-5 OD trans and a Dana 60 rear end using C-10 tailing arms. When the conversion is done I think the car will be very user friendly giving me a low range (4th gear) for town/mountainous driving and a high range for highway use.

The car will still have it's stock appearance with the original 38 gear shift still on the floor in almost the original position. The rear end will still be coil springs w/tube shocks, etc., the C-10 trailing arms will be more robust. than the original radius rods and it will have an open drive line.

 

 

[Wm Steed]

Pete,

Thank you for the heads up on the clutch disk.. I bought it!  I figured that it could be a good idea to have a spare clutch.... Wm

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

1 hour ago, Wm Steed said:

Thank you for the reply/info on parts sources for my Buick... I knew about most of the vintages car parts sources that you mentioned, I had forgotten about French Lake, which I should not have forgotten, I bought parts from them for my 53 Olds Super 88.

Unfortunately I think I am a little bit behind the curve in my quest to find parts for a '38 Buick. If would appear that the '38's are a little ahead of the auto evolution.. The rear coil spring suspension started in '38, as did the automatic transmission. I knew that Buick came out with the 4sp Hydra-Matic trans in '38 before the article in the October Bugle featured the article about the '38 Spl Conv.

I have had a lot of experience with the Hydra-Matic transmissions, I have had a '50 &53 Olds, a 55 Pontiac and a 65 Chevy C-20... Many people complained about the Hydro being crude with ruff shifting, I have to disagree.

The die has already been cast to modify my '38 with a T-5 OD trans and a Dana 60 rear end using C-10 tailing arms. When the conversion is done I think the car will be very user friendly giving me a low range (4th gear) for town/mountainous driving and a high range for highway use.

The car will still have it's stock appearance with the original 38 gear shift still on the floor in almost the original position. The rear end will still be coil springs w/tube shocks, etc., the C-10 trailing arms will be more robust. than the original radius rods and it will have an open drive line.

 

 

 

 Please, please document the changes.  We like pictures.

 

  Ben

[Wm Steed]

I am very good at documenting and detailing the vehicles I get involved with. I have taken pix of everything we have done to the car so far. everything on the chassis, bushings, brakes and engine has been rebuilt/replaced.

My most recent pix is of the rear suspension/axle on my friends '38 Century coupe with a '63-64 Riviera differential. The rear suspension was done before my friend discovered C-10 rear suspension in the early 2000's. In my travels around the western US I gathered up a lot of C-10 trailing arms and frame mount for my friend.

A close review of a couple of the pix I have attached, it can be noted that many of the windows in my '38 are showing signs of moisture intrusion into the laminated glass. With the passage of time in dry warm southern California, any sign of moisture within the glass has gone away...

Lot to be said for living in CA.. Wm

[drhach]

I'm curious what rear ratio you intend to put back there. Have you decided?

[Wm Steed]

Doing the math with the T-5 OD trans, 235/75R15 tires which are average 28.5" OD, it was a toss up of 3.90 or 4.10. We opted for 4.10 which would put the RPM's at approx 2,100 at 70 MPH.

A point of interest, the original 650x16 tires are listed as being 28.1" OD.

Only time will tell how the 248 engine w/ the '41-42 Compound carbs I have for the engine will work. I figure that I will have to drive the car in 4th gear around town, which is not a big deal. Most vehicles that have OD transmissions, either stick or AOD it is recommended in the owners manual, to drive in under. not OD in hilly terrain/city driving. The Buick straight eights are well known for producing good torque.

I have an 'ACE in the hole', I have a very good '52 263 CI engine sitting in my shop, that came out of a '40 Buick. Wm.

Edited November 29, 2023 by Wm Steed (see edit history)

[Wm Steed]

The project to improve the drive-ability of my 38 is moving along, we got the T-5 trans last week, the rebuilt clutch disk, from Georgia, that was brought to my attention by one of the fellow members on this forum showed up a couple of days before the trans.

The T-5 trans fit right into the chassis/engine, no cutting, alterations to the frame/chassis was required.

I am having a Dana 60 rear end built to fit the chassis/tread of the 38. The ratio will be 4.10. I opted for a Dana 60 because they are quite common in 3/4 -1 ton pickups, very similar to the differentials that Buick used in pre/post war cars.

I am having trouble with my computer photo compatibility, as soon as the problem is resolved I will attach some pix. Wm.

[Wm Steed]

Finally got my computer/photo problem resolved, i have down loaded some recent pix of the T-5 trans into my car. We still have to build a rear trans mount. Nothing has been changed in the clutch/flywheel area, The adapter was custom made to accommodate the new trans. Should have the new Dana 60 rear end in a couple of weeks. Wm

[bobj49f2]

I'm surprised you haven't gotten any nasty replies by the diehards on this board for altering the originality of your car. 

I find it an interesting write up.  I have a Frankenstein '37 Special that I've installed a '40 248 with dual carbs and a Lloyd Young OD.  I have yet to have it on the road but I hope it will be an interesting car when finished. 

[Wm Steed]

I know that there will be some people that will get their nickers all bunched up as a result of my alterations to a low mileage, unmolested vehicle, however, I look at it from a different perspective. When I bought the car it was un-driveable due to a total lack of maintenance by the previous owner. Yes, the car was great looking, I did nothing to the car for two years other than keep it clean and sit in it because it was a potential death trap with poor brakes and suspension problems.

I have kept all of the original parts, nothing has been cut, so in the future the car could be put back to original .Wm. 

[avgwarhawk]

I'd love a 4th gear in my 54.  Can't say I blame you! 

[Wm Steed]

The transmission I am using in my 38, commonly referred to as a T-5 is actually a 5 spd trans, fifth gear being an overdrive. It was very common in the 1950's, 60's and 70's for trucks and buses to have 5 spd transmissions, fifth gear could be direct or OD. I had a '72 GMC 6500 series truck for many years that had a Clark 5 spd, fifth was direct, however the truck had a 2 spd rear axle, so the truck had 10 foreward gears.

I have a Clark 5 spd out of a '59 Ford F550 school bus that is a OD trans. I acquired the trans in '94 to put in my '59 Ford F100 in place of the T98 4 spd.

The point of the previous info it to clarify what i am hoping to accomplish with my 38. I know that around town and in hilly terrain I will most likely have to drive in forth gear, once I get on open roads with higher speeds I'll shift to fifth OD. Of course if I would have converted the 38 to an AOD trans, like modern vehicles have the trans would have done all the shifting for me, however, with a under powered 248 CID engine that was not an option.

One of the articles I read in the BCA Bugle or the Torque Tube was written by a man that re-geared his 248 car with 3.6 gearing to lower the rpm's and improve fuel mileage. The 3.6 gears did improve the fuel mileage, however, it drastically lowered the performance.. Zero to 60 was 27 seconds, dropping to 0 to 60 in 32 seconds.

I was cautioned by people that I talked to about re-gearing the rear axle was to not go higher than 3.9.

My brother made the same mistake with his '54 Chevy Belaire. He put a 2004R AOD in place of the TH350. Could not drive the car in town in D,which was actually OD had to drive in 2. On the open road at speeds above 65 he could drive in D, but the  slightest rise in the road would cause a manual down shift. My brother had to have the rear axle re-geared to 3.42 from 2.89 or higher, which is a common ratio for 1978 and later cars.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

I like your transmission choice.  Although an in torque tube overdrive would have done the same,  depending on gear ratios.

 While my '50 still had the 248, I changed from a 4.1 to a 3.36. The 248 handled it well. Obviously,  2nd gear more around town.  I think an overdrive, however it is obtained,  is a good choice. Knowing what I now know, an overdrive, sticking with the 4.1 , would be my choice.

 

  Ben

[Shootey]

I have a 1941 special with 4.1. I toyed with getting an 3.9 out of a century. My expert rearend guy said I would barely feel any difference so I passed on the 3.9. 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

26 minutes ago, Shootey said:

I have a 1941 special with 4.1. I toyed with getting an 3.9 out of a century. My expert rearend guy said I would barely feel any difference so I passed on the 3.9. 

 The 3.36 dropped third gear RPM about 650.  

 

  Ben

[Wm Steed]

To my way of thinking, an in-line overdrive which requires cutting the torque tube and floor pan of the vehicle to accommodate the OD gear box it not an option. That is why I opted for a modern T-5 trans.

In the good ole days, like the '40'-50's and up to the late '70's the country side was covered with wrecking yards full of vintage vehicles, there also was an abundance of machine shops that could make or modify anything the inventive mind could come up with.

I spent two months calling every lead I was given trying to find a 3.9 rear end from a Century or a source for a 3.9 gear set to fit a '38, or a '63 Riviera rear end gear set. I have a '63 Riviera rear end that is 3.24, that is the right tread width, 59." for my '38, but the wrong ratio.

A friend of mine asked me many years ago, when was I going to grow up, and stop messing with old cars. Maybe fate is creeping up on me, not old age. Wm.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

2 hours ago, Wm Steed said:

To my way of thinking, an in-line overdrive which requires cutting the torque tube and floor pan of the vehicle to accommodate the OD gear box it not an option. That is why I opted for a modern T-5 trans.

In the good ole days, like the '40'-50's and up to the late '70's the country side was covered with wrecking yards full of vintage vehicles, there also was an abundance of machine shops that could make or modify anything the inventive mind could come up with.

I spent two months calling every lead I was given trying to find a 3.9 rear end from a Century or a source for a 3.9 gear set to fit a '38, or a '63 Riviera rear end gear set. I have a '63 Riviera rear end that is 3.24, that is the right tread width, 59." for my '38, but the wrong ratio.

A friend of mine asked me many years ago, when was I going to grow up, and stop messing with old cars. Maybe fate is creeping up on me, not old age. Wm.

 

 I am confused.   You would not want to cut the floor pan.  Understand, although I have not heard that is needed.   BUT I bet you will have to cut the front pan for the T5 shifter.

  There folks on the HAMB that have successfully installed T 5s in fords with torque tube.   Agreed I have never modified one as you are doing, just seems less work and expense to work with what one has.

  Good luck. Looking forward to the finished product.

 

  Merry Christmas

  Ben

[nat]

     I don't have the manual with me to compare the 38' rear suspension with my 39' but the radius bar and torque tube are about all that keep the rear axle in the 39'.  All the forward, (and rearward), thrust is placed on the torque ball.  The radius bar is all that keeps the rear axle from shifting left or right in relation to the frame.  

     Going to an open driveshaft would require something to keep the rear axle from shifting fore and aft. Going to a different rear axle would require some clever adapting of the torque tube to the axle.  Neither is beyond the realm of possibility nor are they likely to be all that simple.

[Wm Steed]

Comparing a Buick (38) to a "Belly Button", Ford/Chevy (everyone has one) that is the common vehicle referenced on the HAMB Forum is really apples and bananas.

The use of T-5 transmissions in Early V8 Fords, 32-48 and Model A's has become a very common practice. One of the citizens on the Ford Barn makes and sells kits all set up for T-5's. SPEEDWAY and SUMMIT sells kits to convert the early Ford differentials to open drive line.

During my search to find a  open differential and/or gearing for my 38 I found one shop on the east coast that does T-5 conversions on a regular basis, when it came to my Buick he could not help me.

We finally found a shop in the Los Angeles area that specializes in T-5 conversions, he was willing to take on the project. We gave him the measurements/spec's of what we needed and he came up with a transmission using a combination of T-5 parts, ie; input/tail shaft and a Chevy S 10 tail housing.

The S10 is a GM 'compact' pickup that had a bench seat in lieu of buckets.

The T-5 is now in the car, we have not started to build a rear cross member yet because we are concerned if the input housing will accommodate the '38 throw-out bearing. At this point in time it appears that the gear shift lever will be moved 4" to the rear from original. Not a big deal.

It would appear that the '38 Buick Special is an anomaly! An article in the October issue of the Bugle contained info about the "Self-Shifter" (Hydra-Matic) trans in the 38 Special's ONLY.

When we were checking the chassis in my 38 for room and access for the larger T-5 trans we found that there was ample room in the chassis with no interference with the X member. We assumed that Buick engineers provided for the larger Hydra-Matic as a standard practice in lieu of just a few special chassis.

I do not know much about the '39 Buick chassis and suspension for same. I am very familiar  with the '38 and '40 rear suspension. Buick used very heavy duty Panhard tracking bar and roll stabilizer's to maintain body/chassis alignment. Wm.

 

[nat]

     I haven't looked at the manuals to compare the 38' and 39' suspension so I may be full of gas.

     The 39', (which has lots of one year only interchangeability of parts), uses coil springs without trailing arms.  The only things that keep that axle in place are the torque tube and radius bar.

[EmTee]

The 1938 'self shifter' was apparently the gearbox portion of what would become the Hydromatic with a standard clutch instead of the fluid coupling.

 

https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/hydra-matics-daddy-the-1937-olds-automatic-safety-transmission/

 

[NailheadBob]

1 hour ago, EmTee said:

The 1938 'self shifter' was apparently the gearbox portion of what would become the Hydromatic with a standard clutch instead of the fluid coupling.

 

https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/hydra-matics-daddy-the-1937-olds-automatic-safety-transmission/

 

I believe Reo designed the "self shifter" around 1931, and then Buick took off with it for model year 1938 Special's.

 

Bob

 

EDIT: That's a nice looking transmission/bell housing adaptor plate.

Edited December 21, 2023 by NailheadBob
update (see edit history)

[Wm Steed]

In reality the ' Self-Shifter' trans (Hydomatic} was developed by Oldsmobile, according to the article in the Buick Bugle it was introduced in 1937. GM Corporate insisted, over Buick's objections that Buick put the Self-Shifter in the Specials only.

The Hydromatic was introduced in the Olds and Cads in 1939 with great success. The Sherman Tanks of WWII used two CAD V8's running through two Hydromatic transmission. Buick did not develop the Dynaflow until 1948, and that was only in the Roadmasters.

As I have said earlier, the trans cavity in the Special frame is huge, more than adequate for the original trans needs. Wm.

Edited December 21, 2023 by Wm Steed
speeling (see edit history)

[Oldtech]

Yes, Reo had a self-shifter but it wasn't related to the GM. self shifter.  Going by my less than perfect memory, Reo only had 2 speeds. GM 4. 

Nailhead is correct . It was the basis for the hydramatic but used a clutch pedal. 

[1939_Buick]

18 hours ago, nat said:

     I haven't looked at the manuals to compare the 38' and 39' suspension so I may be full of gas.

     The 39', (which has lots of one year only interchangeability of parts), uses coil springs without trailing arms.  The only things that keep that axle in place are the torque tube and radius bar.

Trailing arms on 39's .  Early chassis were short (as below).  Later '39's had full length chassis

[39BuickEight]

19 hours ago, nat said:

     I haven't looked at the manuals to compare the 38' and 39' suspension so I may be full of gas.

     The 39', (which has lots of one year only interchangeability of parts), uses coil springs without trailing arms.  The only things that keep that axle in place are the torque tube and radius bar.

You must be thinking of something else, as 1939 Buicks definitely have trailing arms.  

[nat]

1 hour ago, 1939_Buick said:

Trailing arms on 39's .  Early chassis were short (as below).  Later '39's had full length chassis

 

1 hour ago, 39BuickEight said:

20 hours ago, nat said:

 

You must be thinking of something else, as 1939 Buicks definitely have trailing arms.

     I stand corrected and hang my head in shame.  

     Some major changes would have to made if the the radius bar, torque tube and ball are not incorporated into the axle swap.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

2 hours ago, nat said:

 

  

     Some major changes would have to made if the the radius bar, torque tube and ball are not incorporated into the axle swap.

Correct!  BUT the hot rod boys do it all the time.    Not what I would do but known process.

 

  Ben

[Wm Steed]

Several years ago there was a considerable amount of traffic on the Performance/Modified Forum regarding several applications of the Chevy C10 trailing arms/suspension on Buick's most of which appeared to be Post war vehicles.

I have had some experience with C10 rear suspension on prewar cars, 38 and 40's. I touched on the C10 subject in my earlier contributions to the '38 Topic. We recently completed the rebuild of a '64 Chevy C10 that I have. I have attached a few pix of the rear suspension under my C10, a couple of which clearly show the attachment of the trailing arms to the chassis at the rear of the trans. The unusual aspect of the Chevy C10 rear suspension is that the system was used from from '63 through the late '70's. The C10-C20 all used the same system regardless if the wheelbase was for a short or long bed vehicle.

If things go according to the plan, the new Dana 60 rear end will be installed under the 38 utilizing the majority of the stock components with C-10 trailing arms in lieu of the '38 radius bars. Wm.

[Wm Steed]

While we have been waiting for the new Dana 60 rear-end to show up we have been busy getting the brake and suspension system rebuilt.

We had a pleasant surprise with the brake drums, due to the low mileage on the car and the fact that nothing had ever been done to the brakes, the drums were still standard, requiring only a minimal honing to remove the glaze. The worst of the four drums cleaned up at .05 over stock.

We added a Hydra-Vac brake booster to the system, which did not require any alterations, to the original brake system..  Hydra-Vac brake boosters were very common on cars, light and medium duty commercial vehicles during the '40/50/s.

[Wm Steed]

Opps, neglected to add a pix of the Hydra-Vac unit we added to the car. For those of you who are not familiar with a Hydra-Vac, there is no mechanical attachment to the brake system. a tee is installed in the brake line at the master cylinder, a vacuum source is obtained at the engine, and that is it.

Ford used a Hydra-Vac system on the '55-57 T-Birds and the F series light trucks from 56-64.