1963 dodge dart 4 door

[G.W]

I'm going to buy a 1963 dodge dart off my dad here soon and I have a couple of questions.

 

What exhaust should I put on it that sounds good? I'm not exactly looking to keep it stock, and the muffler is rusted out. It also has an exhaust manifold leak that needs to be addressed, so I figured I would do it all at once.

 

Second I'm looking at getting new wheels, probably some cragars 5 spokes, and what offset should I get them in. 

 

Third I was considering repainting it, and I'm unsure what might look good and be pretty cheap.

[Rusty_OToole]

Exhaust manifold leak, slant sixes are known for this. DO NOT tighten the bolts over 12 foot pounds, the manifold has to move around when it gets hot or it will crack in two. Replace the gasket and tighten the bolts to 12 foot pounds it will be fine. If someone over tightened them and cracked the manifold you need a new manifold.

If it was mine I would take it to a muffler shop and get a stock type muffler. If you want it a little more noisy you can put on a turbo muffler or straight thru muffler but you are only kidding yourself.

For the wheels don't go too wide. Stock offset, maybe an inch wider than stock at the most.

Paint these days is very expensive. If the original paint is still on there, wash and polish it carefully and wax it 3 or 4 times. There is a lot of cool tech these days for restoring paint like clay bars, polishes etc. Best to hand polish, a machine is faster in the hands of a pro but can easily burn thru the paint.

You might think of an accent like a pin stripe or scallop.

If it was mine and I was on a budget I would put my money into really good tires on stock wheels and a set of heavy duty shock absorbers. Did you know you can raise or lower the front end by cranking on the torsion bars?

[G.W]

I didn't know I could tighten the torsion bars. I was also wondering what might fix the fact that the break light is stuck on. The exhaust manifold shouldn't be cracked, and if it is I'll probably order something aftermarket. The original paint should be good enough to polish. Someone in the past spray painted the roof blue. I can probably touch up on the blue though.

[Rusty_OToole]

Could be the brake light switch is stuck. It is up under the dash, the brake pedal hits it. If the switch is ok you may have a short in the wiring.

[JACK M]

There is an outfit down under that can make that slant come alive.

Do some goooogling.

 

 

 

Edited February 22, 2023 by JACK M (see edit history)

[Peter Gariepy]

14 hours ago, G.W said:

I'm not exactly looking to keep it stock, and the muffler is rusted out. 

 

Second I'm looking at getting new wheels, probably some cragars 5 spokes, and what offset should I get them in. 

GW, the AACA forums are about stock and restored, so expect feedback to do just that.

 

Having it sound louder and adding aftermarket wheels sounds fun, but keeping it stock will be easier, less expensive, and the car will be worth more when you sell it.  IMHO

[JamesR]

14 hours ago, G.W said:

Second I'm looking at getting new wheels, probably some cragars 5 spokes, and what offset should I get them in. 

 

Third I was considering repainting it, and I'm unsure what might look good and be pretty cheap.

 

Hi. I think a Dart of that era would be a cool car! I've always wanted a car with a slant six (if that's what it has.)  

 

As to your above statement, I'm also unsure what paint job would look good and also be cheap. I have a cheap paint job on the one old car that I've had painted because I spent so much money on getting bodywork and rust repair done that I couldn't afford a better paint job (and I don't paint myself.) My paint job  - applied 15 years ago - succeeded in that it made my car a lot more presentable than it was before the bodywork and paint. It failed in that over the last 15 years I've been drawn to the flaws that wouldn't be there had I spent more on a paint job. Nevertheless, I believe that getting rust repair and bodywork done properly/adequately was a valid diversion of funds that would otherwise be spent on paint. I'll possibly get the car repainted to a higher level at a later date.

 

One thing that isn't a valid diversion of funds away from a decent paint job is aftermarket wheels. Put the eleven or twelve hundred dollars (or more) you would spend on aftermarket wheels toward a better quality paint job. Then save up another twelve hundred bucks and add all of that to what was originally in your paint budget and you might get your car refinished adequately. If you get the wheels used or free, then maybe it doesn't matter so much, but in my opinion (and I suspect the opinion of others) Cragars will do little to enhance the looks of a 4 door Dart (Sorry.) Cragars are more for Mustangs and Super Sport Chevys. 

[Rusty_OToole]

1 hour ago, JACK M said:

There is an outfit down under that can make that slant come alive.

Do some goooogling.

 

 

 

The slant six responds very well to some simple hop up tricks BUT a car that old, will most likely blow sky high if you hop it up. To do the job so it will last you need to completely rebuild the motor and possibly transmission, U joints, brakes and suspension.

 

If it was mine I would keep it stock and give it a careful tuneup starting with adjusting the valves (which no one ever does). Do points, plugs, plug wires cap and rotor if necessary, maybe even rebuild the carburetor. Change oil and filter regularly. Then maintain it by the book. If it is in decent shape and you take care of it and don't abuse it, it should last pretty much until you are sick of it. There will be plenty to do making sure the engine, steering, brakes etc are all up to spec. They are an extremely reliable, economical, and nice driving car if everything is in good shape. Let it go to pot and well, no car is much good then.

[Rusty_OToole]

If it is a 170 slant six with manual trans you are looking at a near 30 MPG car. Even the bigger 225 slant with Torqueflite automatic is good for between 20 and 25 MPG. And it runs fine on the cheapest regular gas. 

Maybe not the most exciting car in the world but you can have a lot of fun and drive it all you want, and not break the bank or wear it out.

In other words, an excellent choice for your first collector car, and one you can use for every day transportation if traffic is not too brutal where you are.

Edited February 22, 2023 by Rusty_OToole
correct spelling (see edit history)

[rocketraider]

"Hyper-Pak". It even sounds fun!

[The 55er]

You might want to check a 1963 Dart for any possible rust issues before you put a lot of time or money into it. Just something to be aware of. Good luck with the project!

[ted sweet]

very few wheel choices in that bolt pattern

[Tom Boehm]

G.W, you should post your questions on the www.forabodiesonly.com forum. Those guys really know those Mopar cars inside and out. They are not reluctant to modify their cars there either. There is a section for pre 1967 A body Mopars. They were a big help to me when I got my 1973 Dart back on the road. I kept mine 100% stock. That was a rarity on that forum.  

[G.W]

To everyone who was asking, yes it is a 170 slant six with a three on the tree. I had some rust in the rear because it sat under a tree for around 15 years. It's in really good shape otherwise. It is virtually stock other than a new racing radiator ( it was cheaper than a sock one) and an aftermarket carburetor. I'm not exactly trying to upgrade it or keep it stock, I just need to find some affordable parts. As far as the wheels go, I was just looking for something that would look good.

[Rusty_OToole]

There is a noted Mopar expert named Tony DeFeo. He has been working on, and driving Mopars since the seventies. He said recently that he never saw a 170 slant that was worn out.

[bryankazmer]

I'd stick with the steel wheels and hubcaps. Originality aside, Cragars with a 170 seems silly - a sheep in wolf's clothing.

[John_S_in_Penna]

On 2/21/2023 at 9:49 PM, G.W said:

I'm going to buy a 1963 dodge dart off my dad here soon...

You can have a lot of fun with your car.  Here is something

to consider--preserving history by keeping it the way it came

from the factory in 1962 or 1963:

 

---It's now 60 years old, and they aren't making any more 1963 Dodges.

     By making it look like it came from 1963, it's like you're bringing the

     events of that time into your current experience.  Picture the roads

     it drove on, the small independent motels it stayed at, what your town

     was like in 1963.  Maybe a previous owner vacationed along Route 66.

---Your father or grandfather, or someone else, used it as regular

     transportation years ago.  Maybe you can trace its ownership back

     many years and find out how it was used.  What dealership did it

     come from?  Has it always been in your area?  Why did the original

     owner choose that car, that engine, that color?  Write down as much

     as you find out, to preserve the historical record of past owners.

 

There's a lot of historical interest in having something just like it was in 1963. 

 

Edited February 23, 2023 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[Pfeil]

19 hours ago, rocketraider said:

"Hyper-Pak". It even sounds fun!

Yep!

The good thing about it is, it's factory!

[Rusty_OToole]

Famed stock car mechanic Smokey Yunick said the slant six responded to a few simple hop up tricks, more than any other engine he ever saw. He was referring to the Hyperpak kit, a set of bolt on goodies from Mopar that increased the HP of the 170 engine from 101 to 148, a near 50% increase. It consisted of a 4 barrel carb and intake, header and exhaust, cam and kit, and heavy duty clutch and could be installed by any Plymouth service department in a day.

NASCAR held compact car races in 1960 for Valiant, Corvair, Falcon, Lark, Rambler and such imports as Volvo and Vanguard. The Valiant wiped the floor with the competition in the first 3 races so they quickly cancelled the series.

[Pfeil]

3 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Famed stock car mechanic Smokey Yunick said the slant six responded to a few simple hop up tricks, more than any other engine he ever saw. He was referring to the Hyperpak kit, a set of bolt on goodies from Mopar that increased the HP of the 170 engine from 101 to 148, a near 50% increase. It consisted of a 4 barrel carb and intake, header and exhaust, cam and kit, and heavy duty clutch and could be installed by any Plymouth service department in a day.

NASCAR held compact car races in 1960 for Valiant, Corvair, Falcon, Lark, Rambler and such imports as Volvo and Vanguard. The Valiant wiped the floor with the competition in the first 3 races so they quickly cancelled the series.

Here is a picture of the second-place finisher of that compact race. Lee Petty's Valiant didn't mop the field as the lead was a back and forth between Lee Petty and Fireball Roberts Pontiac Tempest owned and wrenched by Smokey Yunick. The four-wheel independent suspension Tempest always led in the road course portion of the infield only to be overtaken on the straights which is perfectly understandable when racing a four against a six.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=http%3A%2F%2Fracersreunion.com%2Fcommunity%2Fforum%2Fstock-car-racing-history%2F30451%2Fracing-history-minute-1961-daytona-500&psig=AOvVaw3S9oeyzfRDoyTzijWiaL_Y&ust=1677296503170000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA0QjhxqFwoTCJjEgsaerf0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABBF

[Rusty_OToole]

I was talking about the 1960 compact car series

 

"Otherwise modifications were minimal. There were no roll cages, no aerodynamic body work or trick suspension packages. Most people simply showed up and raced.

The road-course race was won by Marvin Panch, as all of the top seven finishers drove Plymouth Valiants. Among the established NASCAR stars, the best finisher was Lee Petty, who came home sixth in his four-door Valiant.

 

Panch doubled down at Daytona, taking the victory in the 20-lap oval race over a pair of Valiants driven by Roy Schecter and Larry Frank, followed by the Fords of Weatherly and Turner.

 

In winning on the high-banked oval, Panch averaged more than 122 mph, an impressive number given that he was driving a four-door sedan powered by a six-cylinder engine and with a body about as aerodynamic as a brick. After all, these cars were designed to be inexpensive, basic transportation, and not to race around high-banked superspeedways.

 

A year later, Daytona hosted one last Cannonball Compact race, a 49-lapper on the road course won by Lee Petty ahead of Roberts and Tim Flock (2014).

And that was it."

 

Quotes from this article https://www.nascarhall.com/blog/bill-france-compact-idea

 

When they found out the Plymouths and Dodges had the edge over everyone else, they changed the rules as is customary in NASCAR.  In this case I guess they could not figure out how to make the Fords (Falcon) and Chevs (Corvair) win so they dropped the series.

 

Edited February 24, 2023 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[Pfeil]

6 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

I was talking about the 1960 compact car series

 

"Otherwise modifications were minimal. There were no roll cages, no aerodynamic body work or trick suspension packages. Most people simply showed up and raced.

The road-course race was won by Marvin Panch, as all of the top seven finishers drove Plymouth Valiants. Among the established NASCAR stars, the best finisher was Lee Petty, who came home sixth in his four-door Valiant.

 

Panch doubled down at Daytona, taking the victory in the 20-lap oval race over a pair of Valiants driven by Roy Schecter and Larry Frank, followed by the Fords of Weatherly and Turner.

 

In winning on the high-banked oval, Panch averaged more than 122 mph, an impressive number given that he was driving a four-door sedan powered by a six-cylinder engine and with a body about as aerodynamic as a brick. After all, these cars were designed to be inexpensive, basic transportation, and not to race around high-banked superspeedways.

 

A year later, Daytona hosted one last Cannonball Compact race, a 49-lapper on the road course won by Lee Petty ahead of Roberts and Tim Flock (2014).

And that was it."

 

Quotes from this article https://www.nascarhall.com/blog/bill-france-compact-idea

 

When they found out the Plymouths and Dodges had the edge over everyone else, they changed the rules as is customary in NASCAR.  In this case I guess they could not figure out how to make the Fords (Falcon) and Chevs (Corvair) win so they dropped the series.

 

You'll have to scroll way down on that link to find the compact article on that cannonball race.

Edited February 24, 2023 by Pfeil (see edit history)

[28 Chrysler]

If the car is in the high mileage range the shifter may be worn and can jam. It is simple to un-jam  with a pull under the hood. I learned to shift one with care.

[Crusty Trucker]

On 2/23/2023 at 3:48 AM, bryankazmer said:

I'd stick with the steel wheels and hubcaps. Originality aside, Cragars with a 170 seems silly - a sheep in wolf's clothing.

 

Check out the wheels on this '63 Plymouth Valiant Signet. They were factory options, at least for this model. They should bolt right on your to Dart and would look sharp. However a set may be difficult to locate. and not cheap.

 

 

[Rusty_OToole]

3 hours ago, 28 Chrysler said:

If the car is in the high mileage range the shifter may be worn and can jam. It is simple to un-jam  with a pull under the hood. I learned to shift one with care.

Early Valiants had a floor shifter that is less prone to wear than a typical column shift. Even so, new bushings can work wonders.

[Bloo]

Those wheels didn't exist yet in 63, but they look great. They would need to come from an a-body (valiant, dart, duster, demon, etc.) before 1973, because 1973 and later have a larger bolt circle.